Platinum Lyretail Molly Poecilia latipinna Molly fish are a hardy, easy fish that can be acclimated to either salt or freshwater. They are compatible with smaller community fish and larger fish. Mollies tend to have a bigger appetite than most fish, so it is recommended to have a good filtration system to make up for the extra feedings they will want. Mollys can grow to a length of 5 inches, and while they do not school they do swim in a shoaling pattern, so they prefer to be with their own kind. A group of 5 is recommended for them to feel safe in the aquarium. They are omnivores and prefer both meaty foods and algae. High quality flake food should be given alongside freeze-dried bloodworms and brine shrimp. Platinum Lyretail Molly Specifics The Platinum Lyretail Molly is a peaceful fish that grows to a size of 4 inches. They prefer water temperatures to be between 75-80oF, a pH of 7.0-8.5, and dKH between 15-25.
Pocillopora coral is a type of pocilloporid, related to Stylophora and Birdsnest. They are some of the easiest small polyped stony corals to keep. Although they can be highly adaptable, they should still be provided with bright lighting and strong turbulent water flow best provided with a wave maker or surge action. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Trapezia sp. crabs. In nature their polyps are open mainly at night, although in the aquarium they typically also open in the daytime. This coral may grow short sweeper tentacles less than 1”.This delightful coral has bumpy branches which may be thick or thin. Although its polyps are very small, when expanded the whole coral takes on a fuzzy appearance. It is most often available pink, although may be green or cream, sometimes with fluorescent polyp tips.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Polka Dot pufferfish is a beautiful fish typically imported from the Indian Ocean. It is also known as the Guinea Fowl pufferfish. Its body may be dark chocolate to inky black with countless white spots covering every inch. It grows up to 19.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Polleni grouper is a strikingly beautiful animal. Lovely lavender squiggles run along its body over a backdrop of bright peach. Each of its fins is a bright daffodil yellow. It is also known as the Harlequin cod and is quite uncommon. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 14 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The tiny Pom Pom crab is rather defenseless on its own, but it enlists the help of small stinging anemones to bolster its defenses. The crab is pink with delightful stripes, and the anemones are tan in color. It holds the anemones in its claws and may wave them at predators. As the crab moves around the anemones may sting other animals, but there is usually no damage done. Both the crab and its anemones will eat fish food scraps. If it happens to lose its anemones it may take a small piece of coral instead. The Pom Pom crab grows up to 1 inch.
The Yellow Tail Poma angel does indeed have a bright yellow tail that is its prime feature. The yellow extends partway up the dorsal fin, and looks especially striking against the fish’s deep, velvety black body. The center of the tail also has a black spot, providing more contrast. Its face is a rusty orange, and a greyish white smudge extends from behind the eye to the upper back. As a juvenile the yellow areas are larger, and there are also yellow markings on its face.The yellow tail poma angel can grow to be approximately 8 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. It may be shy, especially when first introduced to an aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Xenia corals do not possess stinging cells or even a full digestive system, relying heavily on dissolved nutrients in the water. Often times new aquariums (under 1 year) and those with high fish loads or frequent feedings provide the best conditions. It also contains photosynthetic algae within its tissues. Colonies may grow and divide by fission, as often as every 2 weeks. The animal may crawl over surfaces with its base, or let go completely and float to a new location. It prefers to attach to rocks or glass in a vertical position, but may grow nearly anywhere.Its pulsing behavior is not fully understood; colonies may pulse rapidly or cease completely, only to begin again later when conditions suit it. The movement may be based on feeding or respiration, as the coral lacks the fully functioning ciliary action that many other corals possess.While Xenia corals have non-stinging tentacles, it is possible for them to release potent chemicals into the water which adversely affect the growth of stony corals; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. It has few pests aside from syllid worms. We recommend every coral be dipped before being placed in a display aquarium.Pompom Xenia, or Pulsing coral, is a popular choice for new aquarists. Its charming appearance is enhanced by its mysterious habit of rhythmically pulsing its polyps, adding a delightful element to the reef. Its stalk is typically a white to light tan color with clustered polyps on very short branches. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The endearing Porcelain crab is one of the most peaceful and reef safe crabs. It uses its pinching claws only in self defense. It has a pair of feeding nets which are near constantly spread in the water to catch particulate foods. It can also feed on scraps of fish food. The White Porcelain crab may host with anemones or corals. Clownfish may pick them off of their anemones, possibly hurting the crab. Additions of zooplankton will help ensure the crab gets enough food. Porcelain crabs grow up to 2 inches.
The endearing Porcelain crab is one of the most peaceful and reef safe crabs. It uses its pinching claws only in self defense. It has a pair of feeding nets which are near constantly spread in the water to catch particulate foods. It can also feed on scraps of fish food. The Purple Porcelain crab needs plenty of rockwork in order to feel secure. Additions of zooplankton will help ensure the crab gets enough food. Porcelain crabs grow up to 2 inches.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Porcupine pufferfish is an instantly recognizable and absolutely adorable animal. Its large eyes and smiling face give it lots of personality, however it requires a large aquarium with good filtration in order to thrive. Its body may be shades of earthy yellow with a pale belly and dark markings around its eyes. Some darker polka dots and blotches on its body are unique to each fish. Its body is covered in thick spines which typically lay flat, but may be erected when the fish is irritated or stressed. It grows up to 12 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow. Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. It may occasionally shed a waxy mucus layer in order to clean itself of algae and detritus build-up. Few pests may bother it aside from nudibranchs.Porites is related to the flowerpot corals Goniopora and Alveopora but has very short polyps, while its relatives have very long polyps. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Porites do not possess strong defensive capabilities and may be stung by neighboring corals. The surface of Porites has a beautiful pitted appearance with tiny polyps which may make it appear fuzzy. Color is usually bright lemon yellow.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow. Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. It may occasionally shed a waxy mucus layer in order to clean itself of algae and detritus build-up. Few pests may bother it aside from nudibranchs.Porites is related to the flowerpot corals Goniopora and Alveopora but has very short polyps, while its relatives have very long polyps. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Porites do not possess strong defensive capabilities and may be stung by neighboring corals. The surface of Porites has a beautiful pitted appearance with tiny polyps which may make it appear fuzzy. Color is usually bright lemon yellow.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
The Porkfish makes an entertaining addition to a larger aquarium. It has an interesting shape and variety of colors and patterns sure to please. Its large head is bright yellow and its tall body silvery contrasted with two black horizontal stripes when juvenile, and several blue stripes when mature. Large specimens also have two jet black bands across their face and yellow fins. It is often called a grunt because of the sound it can make with its swim bladder. Males and females are identical. The Porkfish grows up to 15 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 200 gallons.The Porkfish is a carnivore and should be fed at least three times a day a high quality diet of Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, silversides and other meaty items and some vegetable matter. It may also consume crustaceans, snails, starfish, bivalves and small fish. Lower light levels aid in initial acclimation. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided or the Porkfish may be forced into hiding. Plenty of hiding places and open room to swim help the Porkfish feel at home.It would be a good tank mate with other Caribbean fish such as the Jackknife or High-Hat. Several specimens may school together and can be kept together in a sufficiently large aquarium if all are added at the same time.
The Powder Blue tang is a popular fish from the Indian Ocean. It has a distinctive dusty blue colored body which makes the fish appear very soft. Its dorsal fin and base of its tail are a bright lemony yellow, its lower fins being pale blue and its tail white with a black outline. All the outer fins are framed in a bright blue when the light hits them just right. Its face is covered by a black mask. Males and females are visually identical.The Powder Blue tang can grow to be approximately 9 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons or larger. It is especially prone to parasites such as ICH. It can be feisty and should be kept with other fish with similar personalities.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
The Powder Brown tang is an uncommon but extremely lovely fish. Its body is a dusty, earthy grey to rust color. Extending from its eye to its lips is a bright white mask, and this, combined with the bright colors on its fins, gives incredible contrast. Bright, lemony yellow arches around the fish's rear half, and its dorsal fin has a shock of deep reddish-orange. Its tail is white and grey with a pale yellow stripe. Males and females are visually identical.The Powder Brown tang can grow to be approximately 8 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons or larger. Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Princess anthias is a charming fish with shining colors. Ruby red to bright magenta coats most of the fish, with glittering golden highlights sprinkled over its back, and red edging to its tail. Males have brighter colors overall and grow larger.The Princess anthias is recommended only for the experienced and dedicated aquarist who can ensure they receive enough nourishment. It should be fed at least four times a day. Lower light levels aid in acclimation, as does an established group of peaceful zooplanktivores who are feeding well on prepared foods. Aggressive tank mates should be strictly avoided. Well oxygenated, high flow conditions with plenty of hiding places and open room to swim help the Princess anthias feel at home. As a deeper water species they do best at temperatures from the high 60s to low 70s Fahrenheit. It grows up to 3.5 inches we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Princess anthias is a charming fish with shining colors. Ruby red to bright magenta coats most of the fish, with glittering golden highlights sprinkled over its back, and red edging to its tail. Males have brighter colors overall and grow larger.The Princess anthias is recommended only for the experienced and dedicated aquarist who can ensure they receive enough nourishment. It should be fed at least four times a day. Lower light levels aid in acclimation, as does an established group of peaceful zooplanktivores who are feeding well on prepared foods. Aggressive tank mates should be strictly avoided. Well oxygenated, high flow conditions with plenty of hiding places and open room to swim help the Princess anthias feel at home. As a deeper water species they do best at temperatures from the high 60s to low 70s Fahrenheit. It grows up to 3.5 inches we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow. Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. It may occasionally shed a waxy mucus layer in order to clean itself of algae and detritus build-up. Few pests may bother it aside from nudibranchs.Psammocora coral come in a wide range of colors and can also take a great number of forms. They aregenerally encrusting corals that can grow into odd shapes.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Psammocora do not possess strong defensive capabilities and may be stung by neighboring corals. Psammocora almost look velvety in appearance. When acclimating to tank start in lower lighting and flow and slowly move them to their final home. For best coloration higher lighting and flow is recommended.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Xenia corals do not possess stinging cells or even a full digestive system, relying heavily on dissolved nutrients in the water. Often times new aquariums (under 1 year) and those with high fish loads or frequent feedings provide the best conditions. It also contains photosynthetic algae within its tissues. Colonies may grow and divide by fission, as often as every 2 weeks. The animal may crawl over surfaces with its base, or let go completely and float to a new location. It prefers to attach to rocks or glass in a vertical position, but may grow nearly anywhere.Its pulsing behavior is not fully understood; colonies may pulse rapidly or cease completely, only to begin again later when conditions suit it. The movement may be based on feeding or respiration, as the coral lacks the fully functioning ciliary action that many other corals possess.While Xenia corals have non-stinging tentacles, it is possible for them to release potent chemicals into the water which adversely affect the growth of stony corals; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. It has few pests aside from syllid worms. We recommend every coral be dipped before being placed in a display aquarium.Pumping Xenia, or Pulsing coral, is a popular choice for new aquarists. Its charming appearance is enhanced by its mysterious habit of rhythmically pulsing its polyps, adding a delightful element to the reef. Its stalk is typically a light tan color with darker “feathers” on its polyps, which are held on branches which may be long or stout. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Purple Firefish is a stunning fish with a deep amethyst colored body fading to bright lavender on its shoulder. Its tail is so saturated with dark purple color it becomes magenta on the caudal fin. Its eye has a splash of sparkling sapphire above. Its first dorsal fin is a spike shape which is nearly always holds erect, sometimes flicking it up and down in an attractive manner. As long as tank mates are similarly peaceful it will swim in the open water where it can be enjoyed. They are best kept one firefish per aquarium unless they are added together to an aquarium over 50 gallons. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger.Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. A dazzling and uniquely hued beauty, the Purple Head Rainbow wrasse makes an eye-catching centerpiece. Adults are also known as Two Toned wrasse - their front half is dusty navy, changing to lavender on the mid body and finally golden yellow at the tail. Brighter highlights decorate its fins and around its eye, and it has a single eyespot on the front of its dorsal fin. Males and females are identical, and mature fish have exceptionally long pelvic fins. Juveniles are white with four dark stripes along the body, sometimes with a yellow tail. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Arguably one of the most beautiful anthias, the Purple Queen is indeed spectacular, but unfortunately can be very difficult to acclimate to aquarium foods. It is recommended only for the experienced and dedicated aquarist who can ensure they receive enough nourishment. It should be fed at least four times a day. Lower light levels aid in acclimation, as does an established group of peaceful anthias who are feeding well on prepared foods. Aggressive tank mates should be strictly avoided. Well oxygenated, high flow conditions with plenty of hiding places and open room to swim help the Purple Queen feel at home.Very few fish sport the super saturated coloration of the Purple Queen. Stunning royal purple coats the fish from its upturned nose to its trailing tail. A yellowish streak extends from its eyes, along its back and the out edges of its caudal fin. Males develop a more pointed snout and their dorsal fin shines red. It is also known as the Amethyst or Sailfin anthias. It grows up to 7 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 75 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
This delightful creature is bright purple and orange all over. It may hide under rocks for much of the day but will emerge at night time or when hungry. It is an opportunistic omnivore and will take any food available, but is usually well behaved. It is a small threat to sleeping fish, snails, crabs, urchins and anything else it can catch. If well fed the lobster's predatory nature is more subdued. It is easy to keep, may grow up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.
The Purple tang is an extremely eye catching fish occasionally imported from the Red Sea. Its body is a deep solid purple with many darker fine striations. Its pectoral fins are edged in yellow, and its tail is also a bright lemony yellow, earning it another common name, the yellow tail surgeonfish. Males and females are visually identical.The Purple tang can grow to be approximately 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons or larger. Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Anyone who has seen the Purple tilefish will never forget its beauty. Intense magenta over its entire body transitions to a blueberry shade over its back and head, and scarlet red on its tail. Its eye is a brilliant sapphire. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Tilefish are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened they may quickly dive under the sand for cover. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as tilefish are extremely prone to jumping from open top aquaria - even a small hole in the top allows for escape. We find as long as the fish cannot jump out of the aquarium it is not difficult to keep. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Tilefish enjoy the company of similarly friendly fish, including other tilefish. They are safe with coral and most invertebrates with the exception of small shrimp.Tilefish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the tilefish has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. This mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color as well as possible green coloration. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a bright blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Pygmy gobies are entertaining additions perfect for small aquaria. There are many species available; most are bright ruby red, and each species has a unique pattern of stripes or spots. Some species perch on top of rocks, some hover just over the bottom, and some swim upside down preferring overhanging decor. Males and females are visually identical. Most species grow approximately 1 inche. It is not unheard of for them to breed in home aquaria. As long as the aquarium has plenty of rockwork and coral many Pygmy gobies can be kept together. Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Pygmy Corydora Corydoras pygmaeus Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Pygmy Cory Cat Specifics Pygmy Corydoras are the perfect dwarf cleaner for any nano tank, and love to live in groups of 10 or more. They prefer their water temperature to be between 72-79oF, a pH between 6.4-7.8, and dKH between 6-10
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Dazzling Plyei wrasse is an exceptional beauty with highly exaggerated trailing pelvic fins. There are two color morphs; our specimens typically have a bright rose colored body with an electric blue stripe from its eye and along its back, the same color also scribbled over its fins. It draws attention to its rounded dorsal fin with a large dark spot in the middle; its tail is also edged in black highlighted with lavender. Females are a hot pink to rose color all over with a pale belly and long pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Dazzling Plyei wrasse is an exceptional beauty with highly exaggerated trailing pelvic fins. There are two color morphs; our specimens typically have a bright rose colored body with an electric blue stripe from its eye and along its back, the same color also scribbled over its fins. It draws attention to its rounded dorsal fin with a large dark spot in the middle; its tail is also edged in black highlighted with lavender. Females are a hot pink to rose color all over with a pale belly and long pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
The exquisite Black Pyramid, or Zoster butterfly, has high contrast coloration which creates a bold impression. Its body is deep velvety black to dark chocolate, eclipsed on its midsection by a large white band which is widest at its belly and narrow on top. Its tail is also pure white, and a shock of lemon yellow is painted on its dorsal fin above the white band. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from the Indian Ocean.This species is hardy and normally quite peaceful; it should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is a planktivore and is considered one of the most reef safe butterflyfishes. However, caution should be used when combining it with corals, clams, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The spectacular Yellow Pyramid butterfly is a highly sought after gem. Intense lemon yellow coloration is eclipsed by a triangular blotch as white as pure snow. Its face is a contrasting dark chocolate to black. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is quite rare, unlike the similar Black Pyramid butterfly which is more commonly available.This species is hardy and normally quite peaceful; if it is added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is a planktivore and is considered one of the most reef safe butterflyfishes. However, caution should be used when combining it with corals, clams, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Queen angel is a very large and impressive fish from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is blue and yellow with pale vertical stripes over its body which curve towards its head. When it matures its body becomes lighter and each scale is edged in lighter yellow, making a latticework effect. The edges of its fins become edged in bright blue and yellow and it develops a blue circular 'crown' pattern on its forehead. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. It is similar in appearance to the Blue angel, however only the Queen angel has a 'crown' and its entire tail fin is bright yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Queen angel can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons. It may become aggressive, especially towards other angelfish. Because of this it should be the last fish added to the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Queen angel is a very large and impressive fish from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is blue and yellow with pale vertical stripes over its body which curve towards its head. When it matures its body becomes lighter and each scale is edged in lighter yellow, making a latticework effect. The edges of its fins become edged in bright blue and yellow and it develops a blue circular 'crown' pattern on its forehead. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. It is similar in appearance to the Blue angel, however only the Queen angel has a 'crown' and its entire tail fin is bright yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Queen angel can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons. It may become aggressive, especially towards other angelfish. Because of this it should be the last fish added to the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The delightful Raccoon butterfly resembles a mischievous thief with its dark eye mask. Contrasting this is a wide band in pure white, and another black stripe extending towards its back. Overlaid atop its buttery yellow body are darker stripes arching towards the tip of its dorsal fin, and a single black blotch marks the base of its tail. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali and the Philippines.This species is normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It may chase its own kind but typically fighting does not result. It gets along well with all other butterfly species; all specimens should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on. This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.A caramel colored body decorated with contrasting white stripes like a zebra make the Radial filefish a stunning beauty. Its large tail and cute snubby snout make it absolutely adorable. It is able to freely lighten and darken its coloration at will, helping it to blend in with Xenia corals. In the aquarium it may shelter within the branches of nearly any coral, sea grass or rockwork. Males and females are identical. It is one of the easiest to keep and most reef safe of all the filefish. Along the male's tail are small prickly spines like Velcro, which may become easily tangled in a net. We recommend a container always be used to transport this fish. Groups may be kept together, and it can also withstand high flow environments. In the wild it lives near Australia and Japan; however our specimens are all tank bred, easy to feed on frozen and even pellet foods. It grows up to 3 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Once seen, the Radiant wrasse cannot be forgotten! Its colors are more saturated than almost any other fish. A wide stripe along its body is deep maroon and emits an infrared crimson to royal purple all around. Along its back and face is an electric yellow so bright it nearly glows. Two turquoise stripes underlined with magenta run under its eye. Males and females are identical; juveniles have more subtle coloration. The Radiant wrasse is one of the most peaceful of the Halichores species, and also one of the most difficult to keep. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
As the ocean's most spectacular ambush predators, it is no wonder lionfish are so popular. Their huge fins are used to confuse and herd smaller animals so the lionfish can swallow them whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving lionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. If added at the same time, and if of similar size, several lionfish may be kept together as long as there is at least one private refuge in the rocks for each fish. Most species are imported from Bali.The tips of the lionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the lionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Lionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.The Radiata lionfish is spectacular fish with long white rays on its otherwise dark pectoral fins, which lack any spots or stripes. Its body is covered in wide earthy brown to rust red bands, each one outlined in bright white. Its face is red with a dark stripe running through each eye and extending into long 'horns'. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 9.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Glorious sulphur yellow coats the Raffle's butterfly from nose to tail, brighter than a brand-new highlighter marker. Each scale is outlined in deeper butterscotch, creating a latticework effect. As if that weren't enough, across its eyes, dorsal fin and caudal fin are inky black bands creating amazing contrast. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is hardy and normally quite peaceful; it should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It may be kept singly or in pairs, and gets along well with all other butterfly species; all specimens should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Rainbow Shark Epalzeorhynchos frenatus Rainbow Sharks are a fun addition to the right home aquarium. Keep in mind, that while they only grow to a size of 6", they can be rather territorial, so it is best to give thought to their new home and tank mates. They like tanks that have caves, rock work, and live plants to claim as their own. They are not overly fond of visitors in their territory and will chase them away if they get too close. They are best when they are the only Rainbow Shark / Red Tail Shark in the tank, as the more dominant one may put up with the other for a little bit but will eventually chase the other until they succumb to stress. They occupy the lower to middle space in the tank, so bottom dwelling peaceful fish like Corydoras are best avoided. Rainbow Sharks are primarily herbivores and should be provided algae wafers and pellets. Though they are not terribly picky and may eat frozen meaty foods as well. Since Rainbow Sharks grow to a size of 6", a 55g aquarium is ideal for their long-term home. Their water temperature should be kept between 75-80oF and their pH between 6.5-7.5.
