Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well. The Red Elongated dottyback is a delightful fish with exquisite coloration. It is primarily deep rosy red all over, with brighter fiery pink to orange on its face and a large black dot on its caudal fin. It is similar to the Finescaled dottyback, but that fish lacks the black spot on its tail. The Red Elongated dottyback is rarely available but is highly sought after; it is one of the most peaceful dottybacks and poses only minimal threat to shrimp. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest dottybacks, growing to 2.5 inches, and needing an aquarium of at least 20 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Red Fairy anthias is a lovely fish with bright colors. Males are deep red to orange with a pale red blotch on their flank, like a bleeding heart. The leading edge of his dorsal fin is also intense red, and when displaying a yellow streak may show along his back. Females are a rosy color with golden scales on their sides and a white belly. May be mixed with other anthias species in a large aquarium. Also known as the Tricolor anthias. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 75 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
Red Fire Shrimp Neocaridina sp Neocaridina shrimp are by far the most popular freshwater invertebrate in the market. They come in almost every color with varying degrees of boldness to provide you with that extra pop of color for your tank. Neocaridinas are a peaceful shrimp whose diet consists of algae and various other organic debris they come across, making them an invaluable addition to your tanks cleanup crew. Neocaridina shrimp are generally easy to care for when provided with the right aquarium set up. They do well in aquariums with good filtration and stable water quality, preferring slightly harder water with a gH of at least 5 to show their best color. Neocaridinas also like to live in groups, a minimum of 3 shrimps is recommended and they should be housed in a tank that is at least 3 gallons. A planted aquarium is preferred as it provides many spaces to scavenge and hide but is not necessarily required.
This attractive algae grows as a deep rosy pink or red bush attached to the substrate via holdfast. Some varieties may be more orange, purple or cream colored. It grows up to 8 inches tall and can be identified by its branches which split in two, or fork outwards, as it grows. Calcium supplementation, bright lighting and moderate to high current will enhance growth. It is not usually eaten by any fish or invertebrates.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The rare and spectacular Red Head wrasse makes a bold impression even in dimly lit tanks. Its colors are extremely saturated; males have a blazing cardinal red head and an emerald green body with two sapphire blue lines on the tail. Females are equally beautiful with electric orange bodies with numerous green stripes, two eyespots on the rear dorsal fin and one more at the base of the tail. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.A very popular damsel because of its bright juvenile coloration of pink and red typically with blue markings. Grows up to 4 Inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The incredible Red Leopard wrasse is a female fish, sometimes called the Guinea Fowl or Blackspotted wrasse. Its body is a fiery red which shimmers turquoise in the light. Large black blotches in somewhat random shapes cover its body, and the edges of its fins may be brighter yellowish to orange. Its mate is a deep rusty orange, and each scale is dotted with an electric blue spot which turn into squiggles on his face. The blue is outlined in a deeper navy to black creating incredible contrast. A single spot near its pectoral fin is black and yellow. Males grow to 6 inches however females are smaller; it needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Dazzling scarlet stripes rake across the face and midbody of the Red Lined wrasse. Its pine green body makes a stunning contrast against the crimson stripes decorating its fins and crescent stripe on its tail. Males have the brightest colors, and females have two eyespots on the rear dorsal fin. Juveniles are impressively striped scarlet and snow white with two dorsal eyespots and one near the base of the tail. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Red Lip blenny is an uncommon import from the Caribbean. It has a blunt face with small horns between its eyes and a large mouth which gives it another common name, the Horse-face Blenny. Its body is chocolate to cream color, with lighter markings on the face and pink to red lips. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches.The Red Lip blenny spends most of its time perched on rocks, always alert and watching its environment. It uses its large lips to rasp away at the rock work, eating detritus and algae. It may also clean algae from the glass, leaving 'kiss marks'. It is typically reef safe; however it may pick on SPS coral polyps or clam mantels. This does not normally damage large, healthy coral colonies; however if small or weak colonies or frags are present they may become damaged.Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality meaty items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend a mature aquarium of at least 50 gallons or larger. Live algae is an important source of food, and should be growing in the aquarium before the blenny is introduced. Algae grazing blennies may be especially aggressive towards similar species, and are best kept one per tank.
Blue Cobalt Discus Symphysodon sp Discus are regarded as one of the most well-known fish to the freshwater hobby, popularized by their striking colors and patterns. They are a peaceful fish that only become territorial while they are breeding. They grow to roughly 8" and would prefer a taller rather than wider tank of at least 60 gallons. They like their water between 79-86oF, a pH between 6,1-7.5, and dKH between 3-8. They are primarily carnivores, so providing them with high quality flake food, frozen shrimp, and Discus pellet food will benefit them. Because of their eating habits their water must be cleaned more often than other freshwater species, as they are more likely to do unwell in poor water conditions.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The spectacular Red Margin fairy is named for the broad scarlet edge to its rounded caudal and dorsal fins. The rest of its body is awash in color and pattern; its face is pink to lavender with yellow dots and squiggles. Its flanks may be rose to olive and decorated with countless contrasting speckles. Females are a rose color all over with yellowish fins. It is normally peaceful with other fairy wrasses except its close relatives such as the Lineatus and Rhomboid wrasses. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 70 gallons.
Red Melon Discus Symphysodon sp Discus are regarded as one of the most well-known fish to the freshwater hobby, popularized by their striking colors and patterns. They are a peaceful fish that only become territorial while they are breeding. They grow to roughly 8" and would prefer a taller rather than wider tank of at least 60 gallons. They like their water between 79-86oF, a pH between 6,1-7.5, and dKH between 3-8. They are primarily carnivores, so providing them with high quality flake food, frozen shrimp, and Discus pellet food will benefit them. Because of their eating habits their water must be cleaned more often than other freshwater species, as they are more likely to do unwell in poor water conditions.
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Red Mushroom may be smooth or have small bumps and be bright red to orange. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Red Mushroom may be smooth or have small bumps and be bright red to orange. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Red Phantom Tetra Hyphessobrycon sweglesi Tetras are one of the best go-to fish for filling up some empty space in your aquarium. They are lively schooling fish that are quite active throughout the tank, creating a dazzling show of the metallic and bright colors they come in. Tetras are peaceful and do best with other peaceful community fish, preferring to be in groups of at least 6 to feel secure. Tetras max out at 2 inches, so they are best rated for tanks 10 gallons and upwards for a school of at least 6. Lots of natural foliage is recommended for the Tetra to weave through to create shady spots to rest and hide in. Tetras will accept many forms of food, such as high-quality pellet and flake foods, thawed brine shrimp, and freeze-dried shrimp. Red Phantom Tetra Specifics Red Phantom Tetra's are a peaceful schooling fish that grow to a size of 1-1/2", so in a school of at least 6 or more, they would like a tank size of at least 15g. They prefer their water temperature to be between 70-82oF, their pH between 6.0-7.5, and hardness between 15-20.
Red Pigeon Checkerboard Discus Symphysodon sp Discus are regarded as one of the most well-known fish to the freshwater hobby, popularized by their striking colors and patterns. They are a peaceful fish that only become territorial while they are breeding. They grow to roughly 8" and would prefer a taller rather than wider tank of at least 60 gallons. They like their water between 79-86oF, a pH between 6,1-7.5, and dKH between 3-8. They are primarily carnivores, so providing them with high quality flake food, frozen shrimp, and Discus pellet food will benefit them. Because of their eating habits their water must be cleaned more often than other freshwater species, as they are more likely to do unwell in poor water conditions.
Bright shades of red, orange and purple with white spots make this crustacean a thing of beauty. It may hide under rocks for much of the day but will emerge at night time or when hungry. It is an opportunistic omnivore and will take any food available, but is usually well behaved. It is a small threat to sleeping fish, snails, crabs, urchins and anything else it can catch. If well fed the lobster's predatory nature is more subdued. It is easy to keep, may grow up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.
This brightly colored animal may be solid ruby red, sometimes with black tips on its arms, or may be bright orange. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. A sand substrate helps to generate enough natural food, which consists mainly of biofilm and microalgae. It is completely reef safe and does not bother corals. If it is kept with competing animals, such as other starfish, the aquarium must be large enough to support all animals.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Red Scallop has an attractive shell banded in white and red. Its mantel does not extend beyond the shell and may be dark to light red or orange. It can open and close its shell to move itself and find a shady cave to live in. Once it is comfortable it sends out threads from its foot to secure itself. It is a peaceful filter feeding animal which requires additions of phytoplankton in order to thrive. It may be pestered by predatory snails and crabs, and some fish that may nip on its mantle such as angelfish and butterflyfish. It may grow up to 3.5 inches.
Hermit crabs need to live inside of a snail shell in order to keep their soft bodies safe. Even with many shells available hermit crabs will occasionally kill snails in order to take their shell. Please ask our staff and we will be happy to supply you with some empty shells.This brightly colored crab from Florida makes a terrific addition to a clean-up crew. It is a medium sized crab that eats a wide variety of algae including some hair algae. It may hide during the day but is quite active at night. It is considered reef safe, however it is an opportunistic omnivore and will take food where it can find it. It will also eat detritus, algae, fish food, and anything else edible.
The Scat is a beautiful fish with dark spots or stripes over its shimmery body. Its fins are highlighted with red, and it develops a high back when mature. Males and females are visually identical. The Scat grows to 12 inches and once fully grown needs an aquarium at least 150 gallons.In the wild Scats live in light brackish water when juvenile and gradually swim into salt water as they grow. Our Scats are acclimated to full salt water conditions, but they could also be kept in a brackish aquarium. The Scat does best when kept in a school. The group will establish a pecking order, so to reduce aggression we recommend at least four individuals.They are friendly with other fish and are commonly kept in a mixed school with Monos. Both these fish are attractive and very hardy. Most other peaceful fish make good tankmates, except for very tiny fish which may be seen as food. Small invertebrates such as shrimp may be eaten, and it may also nibble coral. We recommend caution when handling the Scat in a net because its spines are mildly venomous and may cause a painful sting.Scats are omnivorous and will eat any type of food including flakes. Plenty of vegetable matter including marine algae and Spirulina helps to keep them healthy, combined with dry food and occasional meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp and enriched brine shrimp. They may also eat vegetables such as spinach or broccoli, and as well as plants and macroalgae. They are known to graze on nuisance algae, including hair algae, in the aquarium.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.A darling little fish, the Scooter blenny is actually a member of the dragonet family, and is not a blenny at all. Mottled patterns of ruby red and delicate rose cover this fish all over, and it may have a dark mask over its eyes. Males have a large first dorsal fin which they flare up to intimidate rivals. Pairs and harems may be kept together, and in large aquariums even multiple males may be kept together. All fish should be added at the same time. The Red Scooter grows to 2.5 inches.
The stunning Red Sea clownfish has two full stripes running down its body, one behind its eye and another at its midbody. Its body and fins are bright yellowish orange, and the white stripes are edged in black. Juveniles sometimes show a third tail stripe. It is also known as the Two Band clownfish.Clarkii complex clownfish grow up to 5 Inches and need an aquarium at least 30 gallons. The different types of Clarkii complex clownfish include Blue Stripe, Clarkii, Two Band and Three Stripe among others. Species from other complexes in their territory usually causes fighting.Clarkii complex clownfish tend to be quite aggressive, and are best kept singly or in pairs. They may wander quite far from their host anemone to explore their aquarium. Clarkii complex clownfish host easily in nearly any type of anemone, occasionally even in Atlantic species such as Condylactis sp.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
This delightful animal is typically cream colored with bright scarlet spines and stripes on its back. It is similar to the Chocolate Chip starfish. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. In nature it lives on sandy substrate sea grass beds. It is not reef safe and may eat many types of sessile invertebrates such as corals, sponges and anemones. It can be fed pieces of chopped seafood on the sand with the starfish placed on top.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 12 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Red Spot blenny has a gaudy and eye-catching color- it has countless deep red to orange polka-dots all over its body and face over top a background of light grey on its back with a white belly. The dots even cover its lips- everywhere except its transparent tail. It has small branching cirri on its face. Unlike most other grazing blennies it is easy to see even when it sits motionless on the rocks. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches.The Red Spot blenny spends most of its time perched on rocks, always alert and watching its environment. It uses its large lips to rasp away at the rock work, eating detritus and algae. It may also clean algae from the glass, leaving 'kiss marks'. It is typically reef safe; however it may pick on SPS coral polyps or clam mantels. This does not normally damage large, healthy coral colonies; however if small or weak colonies or frags are present they may become damaged.Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality meaty items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend a mature aquarium of at least 50 gallons or larger. Live algae is an important source of food, and should be growing in the aquarium before the blenny is introduced. Algae grazing blennies may be especially aggressive towards similar species, and are best kept one per tank.
The Red Spot Glass Cardinal fish is the smallest member of the cardinalfish group. Its elongated body is silver and it has a bright red spot at the base of its tail. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1.5".The Red Spot Glass Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It schools eagerly with its own species and often with other species as well. In fact they are known for creating tight schools and moving together as a group. It is happiest when with its own species and we recommend keeping at least three individuals together, although schools of six or more are incredibly impressive. It should not be kept with aggressive tank mates.It prefers an aquarium with lots of water flow and open space to swim. It likes to pick food out of the moving water flow, and should be fed minimum two times per day. Small food like copepods and marine eggs should be some of the first foods offered, and soon after it may take enriched brine shrimp and even mysis shrimp. We recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a small school and 30 gallons or larger for a bigger school.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Few fish can hope to compare to the spectacular beauty of the Red Spot dottyback. Against a background of delightful peach are countless bright scarlet spots arranged in random stripes along its entire body and fins, reminiscent of sakura petals. It is a rare treasure occasionally imported from the Indian Ocean. The Red Spot dottyback grows up to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
The Red Stripe tilefish is a striking animal with an intense scarlet stripe running from the tip of its nose, through its eye and along its entire body, ending in a deep ruby flag on its tail. Contrasting this with its snowy white body and you have a fish unlike any other. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger. Tilefish are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened they may quickly dive under the sand for cover. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as tilefish are extremely prone to jumping from open top aquaria - even a small hole in the top allows for escape. We find as long as the fish cannot jump out of the aquarium it is not difficult to keep. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Tilefish enjoy the company of similarly friendly fish, including other tilefish. They are safe with coral and most invertebrates with the exception of small shrimp.Tilefish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the tilefish has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.
Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.The Red Tail filefish has a bright emerald to olive colored body contrasting with its fiery red to orange tail. Fine dark speckles cover it all over, and its eye and gill cover are also dark. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, as well as other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. They may also bully or eat small fish, but are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. When threatened or resting it may dive under the sand, but more commonly sleeps within the rocks.The Possum, or Arrowhead Pygmy wrasse, is a delightful fish hailing from the Philippines. Its body is overall rusty red colored with a large dark eyespot on most of its fins. Large eyes and pouty lips give it instant charm. White lines radiate from around its eye, one vertical line is just behind its pelvic fins, and two near its tail at an angle. The Red Tanaka's possum is similar to the White Banded except it is brighter red and one of its facial lines wraps around its head behind its eye, and the rear lines are more vertical. Male and female Possum wrasses are identical, grow to 2.5-3 inches and need an aquarium of at least 15 gallons.
The Redhead goby is an adorable little fish with, as the name implies, has a ruby red color on its forehead. Within the red are streaks of electric color which shimmer yellow or blue depending on how the light hits them. These streaks wrap around its eyes and extend to its shoulder. Its body is a dusty olive color with contrasting dark spots in a row from its shoulder to its tail. Under those spots is a streak of the same dark shade. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Redhead goby is an adorable little fish with, as the name implies, has a ruby red color on its forehead. Within the red are streaks of electric color which shimmer yellow or blue depending on how the light hits them. These streaks wrap around its eyes and extend to its shoulder. Its body is a dusty olive color with contrasting dark spots in a row from its shoulder to its tail. Under those spots is a streak of the same dark shade. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Redsea Mimic blenny is an uncommon and lovely little fish. It is a harmless and peaceful herbivore which has copied the coloration of the venomous Blackline Fang blenny. Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. Predators will mistake the Redsea Mimic blenny for the Blackline Fang blenny and thus avoid eating it for fear of a painful bite. In order to make its act convincing the Redsea Mimic blenny also copies the swimming pattern of a fang blenny and spends much of its time out in the open.The Redsea Mimic blenny has an elongated body which is pastel blue over the front half of its body and transitions to dusty yellow towards the tail. Across its eye and extending towards the tail is a thin black pencil line which contrasts beautifully with the bright body. The dorsal fin also has streaks of black. The easiest way to tell the mimic blenny apart from a fang blenny is that the mimic blenny has a flattened face. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3 inches.Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality meaty items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend a mature aquarium of at least 20 gallons or larger. Live algae is an important source of food, and should be growing in the aquarium before the blenny is introduced.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Redsea Mimic blenny is an uncommon and lovely little fish. It is a harmless and peaceful herbivore which has copied the coloration of the venomous Blackline Fang blenny. Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. Predators will mistake the Redsea Mimic blenny for the Blackline Fang blenny and thus avoid eating it for fear of a painful bite. In order to make its act convincing the Redsea Mimic blenny also copies the swimming pattern of a fang blenny and spends much of its time out in the open.The Redsea Mimic blenny has an elongated body which is pastel blue over the front half of its body and transitions to dusty yellow towards the tail. Across its eye and extending towards the tail is a thin black pencil line which contrasts beautifully with the bright body. The dorsal fin also has streaks of black. The easiest way to tell the mimic blenny apart from a fang blenny is that the mimic blenny has a flattened face. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3 inches.Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality meaty items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend a mature aquarium of at least 20 gallons or larger. Live algae is an important source of food, and should be growing in the aquarium before the blenny is introduced.
The lovely Reef butterfly is a shimmering white with sunny yellow across its back and fins. A dark stripe over its eyes, and another at the base of its tail, help to confuse predators who can't distinguish this fish's head from its tail. Its bright color scheme have earned it the name Painted butterfly. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is occasionally imported from the Caribbean.This species is normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. If it is to be kept with other butterflyfish they should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on. This species may ignore corals if well fed, however caution should be used if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may nip on many types of corals including LPS, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Regal angelfish is a stunning beauty; however, it can be one of the most challenging angelfish to keep. Its dazzling colors make it highly sought after. It is primarily yellow with white vertical stripes edged in blue over its entire body. Reginal variations include from the Philippines it may have a blueish to whitish breast; from the Indian Ocean its breast may be yellowish, and from the Red Sea it is a deep orangey-yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Regal angel can grow to be up to 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Because of the challenge of keeping this species we recommend it be added as one of the first fish in the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It is common for regal angelfish to be finicky feeders. Many people find specimens from the Red Sea to be slightly easier to care for. They should be given a highly varied diet fed minimum 2-3 times a day. marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may entice a feeding response.
The Regal angelfish is a stunning beauty; however, it can be one of the most challenging angelfish to keep. Its dazzling colors make it highly sought after. It is primarily yellow with white vertical stripes edged in blue over its entire body. Reginal variations include from the Philippines it may have a blueish to whitish breast; from the Indian Ocean its breast may be yellowish, and from the Red Sea it is a deep orangey-yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Regal angel can grow to be up to 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Because of the challenge of keeping this species we recommend it be added as one of the first fish in the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It is common for regal angelfish to be finicky feeders. Many people find specimens from the Red Sea to be slightly easier to care for. They should be given a highly varied diet fed minimum 2-3 times a day. marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may entice a feeding response.
The Regal angelfish is a stunning beauty; however, it can be one of the most challenging angelfish to keep. Its dazzling colors make it highly sought after. It is primarily yellow with white vertical stripes edged in blue over its entire body. Reginal variations include from the Philippines it may have a blueish to whitish breast; from the Indian Ocean its breast may be yellowish, and from the Red Sea it is a deep orangey-yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Regal angel can grow to be up to 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Because of the challenge of keeping this species we recommend it be added as one of the first fish in the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It is common for regal angelfish to be finicky feeders. Many people find specimens from the Red Sea to be slightly easier to care for. They should be given a highly varied diet fed minimum 2-3 times a day. marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may entice a feeding response.
The Leopard seahorse is a beautiful and fascinating animal. Its coloration may be bright red, orange or yellow, often with dark stripes along its back and tail. It has a rather smooth appearance, lacking the spiny look that many seahorses have. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.
The Leopard seahorse is a beautiful and fascinating animal. Its coloration may be bright red, orange or yellow, often with dark stripes along its back and tail. It has a rather smooth appearance, lacking the spiny look that many seahorses have. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.
The Leopard seahorse is a beautiful and fascinating animal. Its coloration may be earthy brown to jet black, often with dark stripes along its back and tail. It has a rather smooth appearance, lacking the spiny look that many seahorses have. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.
The Remora, or Sharksucker, is a unique fish with a suction cup atop its head which allows it to hitch a ride with large fish, sharks, rays, and turtles. The remora adds a beautiful addition to a large aquarium. Its elongated body is silvery with a dark black stripe running along its flank and another along its dorsal side. All its fins are black, and its tail is edged in white. Males and females are identical. The Remora can grow to 43 inches and should be housed in an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.Remora may eat small or slender bodied fish and crustaceans. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails; however they may knock over loose decor with their strong tails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers.Remora are carnivores and should be fed at least once a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are greedy feeders and may learn to take dry foods as well.The Remora is a special order item; please contact our staff and we will be happy to prepare your order.
Reticulated Driftwood Catfish Centromochlus reticulatus Reticulated Driftwood Catfish are a very small, sweet, and social fish that are a perfect match for a peaceful community tank with other small fish species. These fish seek shelter around pieces of submerged wood during the day and like to graze for their food at night, making them a great addition to a tank as a nightly clean up crew! They love living amongst each other, so a group minimum of 6-8 individuals is recommended. Adult males have an elongated pointed anal fin while females have a rounded anal fin. Females can also carry unfertilized eggs and sperm within their bodies until they are ready to deposit. Reticulated Driftwood Catfish grow to a maximum size of roughly 1 inch, so in a group of minimum 6-8, they are perfect for a 15g tank. They like their water temperatures to be between 71-82oF and pH between 5.0-7.5.
Bullseye mushroom corals have a leathery texture covered in bumpy nubs. Colors can vary quite a bit, and each one has it’s own charm. It is easy to keep and makes a great coral for beginners and experienced collectors alike. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The Bullseye Mushroom has a bumpy or fuzzy texture, and may come in any bright color of the rainbow including emerald green, royal purple, and electric orange. This shallow water coral does best under bright lighting, but is highly adaptable. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Freshwater
