This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow. Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. It may occasionally shed a waxy mucus layer in order to clean itself of algae and detritus build-up. Few pests may bother it aside from nudibranchs.Psammocora coral come in a wide range of colors and can also take a great number of forms. They aregenerally encrusting corals that can grow into odd shapes.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Psammocora do not possess strong defensive capabilities and may be stung by neighboring corals. Psammocora almost look velvety in appearance. When acclimating to tank start in lower lighting and flow and slowly move them to their final home. For best coloration higher lighting and flow is recommended.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Xenia corals do not possess stinging cells or even a full digestive system, relying heavily on dissolved nutrients in the water. Often times new aquariums (under 1 year) and those with high fish loads or frequent feedings provide the best conditions. It also contains photosynthetic algae within its tissues. Colonies may grow and divide by fission, as often as every 2 weeks. The animal may crawl over surfaces with its base, or let go completely and float to a new location. It prefers to attach to rocks or glass in a vertical position, but may grow nearly anywhere.Its pulsing behavior is not fully understood; colonies may pulse rapidly or cease completely, only to begin again later when conditions suit it. The movement may be based on feeding or respiration, as the coral lacks the fully functioning ciliary action that many other corals possess.While Xenia corals have non-stinging tentacles, it is possible for them to release potent chemicals into the water which adversely affect the growth of stony corals; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. It has few pests aside from syllid worms. We recommend every coral be dipped before being placed in a display aquarium.Pumping Xenia, or Pulsing coral, is a popular choice for new aquarists. Its charming appearance is enhanced by its mysterious habit of rhythmically pulsing its polyps, adding a delightful element to the reef. Its stalk is typically a light tan color with darker “feathers” on its polyps, which are held on branches which may be long or stout. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Purple Firefish is a stunning fish with a deep amethyst colored body fading to bright lavender on its shoulder. Its tail is so saturated with dark purple color it becomes magenta on the caudal fin. Its eye has a splash of sparkling sapphire above. Its first dorsal fin is a spike shape which is nearly always holds erect, sometimes flicking it up and down in an attractive manner. As long as tank mates are similarly peaceful it will swim in the open water where it can be enjoyed. They are best kept one firefish per aquarium unless they are added together to an aquarium over 50 gallons. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger.Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. A dazzling and uniquely hued beauty, the Purple Head Rainbow wrasse makes an eye-catching centerpiece. Adults are also known as Two Toned wrasse - their front half is dusty navy, changing to lavender on the mid body and finally golden yellow at the tail. Brighter highlights decorate its fins and around its eye, and it has a single eyespot on the front of its dorsal fin. Males and females are identical, and mature fish have exceptionally long pelvic fins. Juveniles are white with four dark stripes along the body, sometimes with a yellow tail. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Arguably one of the most beautiful anthias, the Purple Queen is indeed spectacular, but unfortunately can be very difficult to acclimate to aquarium foods. It is recommended only for the experienced and dedicated aquarist who can ensure they receive enough nourishment. It should be fed at least four times a day. Lower light levels aid in acclimation, as does an established group of peaceful anthias who are feeding well on prepared foods. Aggressive tank mates should be strictly avoided. Well oxygenated, high flow conditions with plenty of hiding places and open room to swim help the Purple Queen feel at home.Very few fish sport the super saturated coloration of the Purple Queen. Stunning royal purple coats the fish from its upturned nose to its trailing tail. A yellowish streak extends from its eyes, along its back and the out edges of its caudal fin. Males develop a more pointed snout and their dorsal fin shines red. It is also known as the Amethyst or Sailfin anthias. It grows up to 7 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 75 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
This delightful creature is bright purple and orange all over. It may hide under rocks for much of the day but will emerge at night time or when hungry. It is an opportunistic omnivore and will take any food available, but is usually well behaved. It is a small threat to sleeping fish, snails, crabs, urchins and anything else it can catch. If well fed the lobster's predatory nature is more subdued. It is easy to keep, may grow up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.
The Purple tang is an extremely eye catching fish occasionally imported from the Red Sea. Its body is a deep solid purple with many darker fine striations. Its pectoral fins are edged in yellow, and its tail is also a bright lemony yellow, earning it another common name, the yellow tail surgeonfish. Males and females are visually identical.The Purple tang can grow to be approximately 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons or larger. Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Anyone who has seen the Purple tilefish will never forget its beauty. Intense magenta over its entire body transitions to a blueberry shade over its back and head, and scarlet red on its tail. Its eye is a brilliant sapphire. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Tilefish are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened they may quickly dive under the sand for cover. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as tilefish are extremely prone to jumping from open top aquaria - even a small hole in the top allows for escape. We find as long as the fish cannot jump out of the aquarium it is not difficult to keep. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Tilefish enjoy the company of similarly friendly fish, including other tilefish. They are safe with coral and most invertebrates with the exception of small shrimp.Tilefish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the tilefish has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. This mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color as well as possible green coloration. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a bright blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Pygmy gobies are entertaining additions perfect for small aquaria. There are many species available; most are bright ruby red, and each species has a unique pattern of stripes or spots. Some species perch on top of rocks, some hover just over the bottom, and some swim upside down preferring overhanging decor. Males and females are visually identical. Most species grow approximately 1 inche. It is not unheard of for them to breed in home aquaria. As long as the aquarium has plenty of rockwork and coral many Pygmy gobies can be kept together. Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Pygmy Corydora Corydoras pygmaeus Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Pygmy Cory Cat Specifics Pygmy Corydoras are the perfect dwarf cleaner for any nano tank, and love to live in groups of 10 or more. They prefer their water temperature to be between 72-79oF, a pH between 6.4-7.8.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Dazzling Plyei wrasse is an exceptional beauty with highly exaggerated trailing pelvic fins. There are two color morphs; our specimens typically have a bright rose colored body with an electric blue stripe from its eye and along its back, the same color also scribbled over its fins. It draws attention to its rounded dorsal fin with a large dark spot in the middle; its tail is also edged in black highlighted with lavender. Females are a hot pink to rose color all over with a pale belly and long pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Dazzling Plyei wrasse is an exceptional beauty with highly exaggerated trailing pelvic fins. There are two color morphs; our specimens typically have a bright rose colored body with an electric blue stripe from its eye and along its back, the same color also scribbled over its fins. It draws attention to its rounded dorsal fin with a large dark spot in the middle; its tail is also edged in black highlighted with lavender. Females are a hot pink to rose color all over with a pale belly and long pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
The exquisite Black Pyramid, or Zoster butterfly, has high contrast coloration which creates a bold impression. Its body is deep velvety black to dark chocolate, eclipsed on its midsection by a large white band which is widest at its belly and narrow on top. Its tail is also pure white, and a shock of lemon yellow is painted on its dorsal fin above the white band. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from the Indian Ocean.This species is hardy and normally quite peaceful; it should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is a planktivore and is considered one of the most reef safe butterflyfishes. However, caution should be used when combining it with corals, clams, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The spectacular Yellow Pyramid butterfly is a highly sought after gem. Intense lemon yellow coloration is eclipsed by a triangular blotch as white as pure snow. Its face is a contrasting dark chocolate to black. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is quite rare, unlike the similar Black Pyramid butterfly which is more commonly available.This species is hardy and normally quite peaceful; if it is added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is a planktivore and is considered one of the most reef safe butterflyfishes. However, caution should be used when combining it with corals, clams, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Queen angel is a very large and impressive fish from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is blue and yellow with pale vertical stripes over its body which curve towards its head. When it matures its body becomes lighter and each scale is edged in lighter yellow, making a latticework effect. The edges of its fins become edged in bright blue and yellow and it develops a blue circular 'crown' pattern on its forehead. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. It is similar in appearance to the Blue angel, however only the Queen angel has a 'crown' and its entire tail fin is bright yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Queen angel can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons. It may become aggressive, especially towards other angelfish. Because of this it should be the last fish added to the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Queen angel is a very large and impressive fish from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is blue and yellow with pale vertical stripes over its body which curve towards its head. When it matures its body becomes lighter and each scale is edged in lighter yellow, making a latticework effect. The edges of its fins become edged in bright blue and yellow and it develops a blue circular 'crown' pattern on its forehead. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. It is similar in appearance to the Blue angel, however only the Queen angel has a 'crown' and its entire tail fin is bright yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Queen angel can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons. It may become aggressive, especially towards other angelfish. Because of this it should be the last fish added to the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The delightful Raccoon butterfly resembles a mischievous thief with its dark eye mask. Contrasting this is a wide band in pure white, and another black stripe extending towards its back. Overlaid atop its buttery yellow body are darker stripes arching towards the tip of its dorsal fin, and a single black blotch marks the base of its tail. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali and the Philippines.This species is normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It may chase its own kind but typically fighting does not result. It gets along well with all other butterfly species; all specimens should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on. This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.A caramel colored body decorated with contrasting white stripes like a zebra make the Radial filefish a stunning beauty. Its large tail and cute snubby snout make it absolutely adorable. It is able to freely lighten and darken its coloration at will, helping it to blend in with Xenia corals. In the aquarium it may shelter within the branches of nearly any coral, sea grass or rockwork. Males and females are identical. It is one of the easiest to keep and most reef safe of all the filefish. Along the male's tail are small prickly spines like Velcro, which may become easily tangled in a net. We recommend a container always be used to transport this fish. Groups may be kept together, and it can also withstand high flow environments. In the wild it lives near Australia and Japan; however our specimens are all tank bred, easy to feed on frozen and even pellet foods. It grows up to 3 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Once seen, the Radiant wrasse cannot be forgotten! Its colors are more saturated than almost any other fish. A wide stripe along its body is deep maroon and emits an infrared crimson to royal purple all around. Along its back and face is an electric yellow so bright it nearly glows. Two turquoise stripes underlined with magenta run under its eye. Males and females are identical; juveniles have more subtle coloration. The Radiant wrasse is one of the most peaceful of the Halichores species, and also one of the most difficult to keep. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
As the ocean's most spectacular ambush predators, it is no wonder lionfish are so popular. Their huge fins are used to confuse and herd smaller animals so the lionfish can swallow them whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving lionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. If added at the same time, and if of similar size, several lionfish may be kept together as long as there is at least one private refuge in the rocks for each fish. Most species are imported from Bali.The tips of the lionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the lionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Lionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.The Radiata lionfish is spectacular fish with long white rays on its otherwise dark pectoral fins, which lack any spots or stripes. Its body is covered in wide earthy brown to rust red bands, each one outlined in bright white. Its face is red with a dark stripe running through each eye and extending into long 'horns'. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 9.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Glorious sulphur yellow coats the Raffle's butterfly from nose to tail, brighter than a brand-new highlighter marker. Each scale is outlined in deeper butterscotch, creating a latticework effect. As if that weren't enough, across its eyes, dorsal fin and caudal fin are inky black bands creating amazing contrast. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is hardy and normally quite peaceful; it should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It may be kept singly or in pairs, and gets along well with all other butterfly species; all specimens should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Rainbow Shark Epalzeorhynchos frenatus Rainbow Sharks are a fun addition to the right home aquarium. Keep in mind, that while they only grow to a size of 6", they can be rather territorial, so it is best to give thought to their new home and tank mates. They like tanks that have caves, rock work, and live plants to claim as their own. They are not overly fond of visitors in their territory and will chase them away if they get too close. They are best when they are the only Rainbow Shark / Red Tail Shark in the tank, as the more dominant one may put up with the other for a little bit but will eventually chase the other until they succumb to stress. They occupy the lower to middle space in the tank, so bottom dwelling peaceful fish like Corydoras are best avoided. Rainbow Sharks are primarily herbivores and should be provided algae wafers and pellets. Though they are not terribly picky and may eat frozen meaty foods as well. Since Rainbow Sharks grow to a size of 6", a 55g aquarium is ideal for their long-term home. Their water temperature should be kept between 75-80oF and their pH between 6.5-7.5.
Rainbow Shiner Notropis chrosomus Rainbow Shiners are brightly colored friendly fish that are a great addition to the community aquarium. Their flashy colors are most prominent during the mating season, and even more-so in males. They occupy the top and middle levels of the water column, minding their own business when sharing the space with other peaceful fish. They are omnivores who are not particularly picky, so to maintain the best coloration they should be fed a varied diet for flake food and frozen shrimp. Rainbow Shiners tend to reach a maximum size of 2-1/2" and love to exist in schooling numbers, so for schools of at least 6 being perfect for 15g tanks. They are a very hardy fish that can withstand a wide range of parameters. Because they are a native to the Southeastern United States, they may be kept in water that is room temperature 68-74oF at the lowest end of the spectrum, and 75-76oF at the highest. Their pH should be maintained between 6.5-8.0.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Rainbow wrasse is an absolute kaleidoscope of color! its head is rusty red with cerulean blue stripes. Its body is emerald green transitioning to blue at the tail, with horizontal stripes of bright magenta. Its belly is lemon to silver, and its dorsal fin has an orange stripe with a black spot near its head. It is also known as the Five Stripe, or Pink Faced wrasse. Juveniles are more slender and mainly turquoise and magenta. Males and females are identical. It grows to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
The incredibly beautiful Rainford's butterfly makes a spectacular addition to the devoted aquarist's aquarium. Against a backdrop of intense zinc yellow are wide vertical bands in deep amber and honey. A darker eyespot at the base of its tail helps to confuse predators who can't distinguish this fish's head from its tail. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is a special treat rarely imported from Australia.This species is normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. If it is to be kept with other butterflyfish they should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. It may acclimate better if kept in a group with its own kind. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is difficult to feed and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.
The Rainford's goby is a well-loved fish that has been given many names including the Court Jester goby and Old Glory. Its yellow face fades into a steel-grey body, and bright orangey-red stripes run from its nose to its tail. Several attractive eyespots are located along its dorsal and caudal fins, and white blotches are sprinkled along its back. Under the right light the edges of its fins may shimmer blue. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 20 gallons.Hover gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. They spend most of their day floating about an inch above the aquarium's substrate, which should be a fine grain sand. They occasionally pick up the sand in their mouth and sift it, helping to keep it clean and eating tiny organisms found within.They are not as prone to jumping as most other gobies; however we still recommend the tank be securely covered. It is normal for them to be shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. They often fight with other hover gobies, however are typically peaceful with all other fish.Hover gobies are omnivorous and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods. Some live algae should be growing in the aquarium to allow the goby to graze naturally throughout the day. As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Randall's anthias is one of the most delightful of all the anthias. It is primarily peachy to tangerine in color. Females have lemon yellow on their noses and caudal fins, and may show faint stripes along their backs. Males are brighter overall with pink tails and red edging to their pelvic fins. When displaying they exhibit fantastic stripes along the body of magenta and red. They grow to only 3 inches so a single fish may be kept in an aquarium as small as 60 gallons, but we recommend at least 125 gallons for a group.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Randall's anthias is one of the most delightful of all the anthias. It is primarily peachy to tangerine in color. Females have lemon yellow on their noses and caudal fins, and may show faint stripes along their backs. Males are brighter overall with pink tails and red edging to their pelvic fins. When displaying they exhibit fantastic stripes along the body of magenta and red. They grow to only 3 inches so a single fish may be kept in an aquarium as small as 60 gallons, but we recommend at least 125 gallons for a group.
A stunning beauty, the Randall's goby makes a huge impression for its small size. Bright tangerine stripes run over its white body, and its first dorsal fin is hugely oversized. This big, round fin is adorned with many white freckles and an attractive eyespot. This flashy fin often makes the Randall's goby a target for potential fin-nipping species. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The handsome Rectangular triggerfish goes by many names including Wedge-Tail, V-Line, Rectangle Humu, Lagoon and also by its Hawaiian name Humuhumunukunukuāpuaʻa which means 'Triggerfish with a snout like a pig'. Against its light fawn colored body and snowy belly are many contrasting bars and stripes. Inky black extends from its eyes and forms a large blotch on its belly. A second black area is on its tail, and two turquoise V shaped stripes create dramatic contrast. Deeper baby blue highlights around its eyes and mouth. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 12 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Red Coris is also known as the Yellow Tail coris for its bright lemon yellow caudal fin. Its body is a deep rusty orange decorated with navy blue spots and fiery orange fins. Juveniles are an intense tangerine orange with white tiger stripes along its back outlined in pure black and a transparent tail. Mature males have a light green band on the body like a belt, just above where its anal fin starts. Young fish are very similar to the Formosa wrasse but are overall brighter. It grows to 14 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Red Coris is also known as the Yellow Tail coris for its bright lemon yellow caudal fin. Its body is a deep rusty orange decorated with navy blue spots and fiery orange fins. Juveniles are an intense tangerine orange with white tiger stripes along its back outlined in pure black and a transparent tail. Mature males have a light green band on the body like a belt, just above where its anal fin starts. Young fish are very similar to the Formosa wrasse but are overall brighter. It grows to 14 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The Red Checkered Perch is a colorful fish with bright ruby red bands and spots covering its elongated, snow white body. These bands cover its face nearly obscuring its eyes. On some individuals the bands appear as saddles along its back, giving it another common name, the U-Mark sand perch. It is also known as Snyderi's grubfish. It has a pointed snout, and may have yellow blotches or spots on its face and body. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.The Red Checkered Perch spends most of its time sitting atop rocks or the substrate, keeping a sharp eye on its surroundings, similar to a hawkfish. It may be kept in a group if the aquarium is sufficiently large and all individuals are added at the same time. We don't recommend keeping it with small fish, which it may harass, or small invertebrates which it may eat. It does not harm corals. We find the Red Checkered Perch adapts well to aquarium life and is a hardy addition.Sand Perches are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. Frozen food should be offered initially, and in time they usually learn to eat dry foods as well.
Red Comet Swordtail Xiphophorus helleri Swordtails make an excellent choice for peaceful community tanks. Swordtails get their name from exactly that - their tail tapers off into a flowy sword like shape that is only present in males. Swordtails are members of the livebearer family, which means they can birth up to 80 fry all at once. Caution should be taken when housing multiple males together as they will more than likely fight amongst each other. They grow to a size of 4 inches and are quite active, making their requirements for a tank at the minimum of 30 gallons. This species is more prone to jumping out of the aquarium, so it is recommended to have a tight-fitting lid on your enclosure to ensure they stay in the water. Swordtails are omnivores and will take high-quality pellets, flakes, brine shrimp, as well as algae. Red Comet Swordtail Specifics The Red Comet Swordtail is a peaceful fish that grows up to 4 inches. They like their water temperature to be between 64-82oF, at a pH of 7.0-8.3.
Red Crystal Shrimp Caridina sp Crystal Shrimp are another strikingly beautiful choice of shrimp for the freshwater aquarium. They were selectively bred by Bee Shrimp to have such a radiant colour alongside the patterning of white across their bodies. Crystal Shrimp differ slightly in care requirements from that of Amano Shrimp and Cherry Shrimp and are regarded as being a little more finicky. They like their water to be more on the acidic side (pH of 5.8-7.4), so having a well-established tank with Indian Almond leaves and driftwood will benefit them. gH is of importance to shrimp, as these Crystal Shrimp like theirs slightly hard between (4-6 gH). The gH (general hardness) is the measure of concentration of calcium carbonate and magnesium ions. For Shrimp to molt correctly they will need these elements to make their new exoskeleton. A TDS reading between 100-200 is best for these shrimps, and because they don't like TDS to be too high, they may not mix well with Neocaridina's who like a higher reading. Their water temperature should remain on the cooler side, ranging between 62-76oF.
