Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.A very popular and commonly available fish, also known as the white tail humbug. A similar fish is the 4 stripe damsel, which has a black tail. In the wild it may hide amongst Acropora branches, however in the aquarium it will appreciate rock with many hiding places. Grows up to 4 Inches.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.- A very popular and commonly available fish, also known as the black tail humbug. A similar fish is the 3 stripe damsel, which has a white tail. In the wild it may hide amongst Acropora branches, however in the aquarium it will appreciate rock with many hiding places. Grows up to 4 Inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Lined wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are easy to feed and usually learn to take dry foods, as well as have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, and worms. They may also eat several pests of corals and clams including flatworms, bristleworms and pyramid snails. They do not bother corals or anemones.At night time lined wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The 6 Line wrasse is an incredibly bright and feisty little fish. Its body is alternating stripes of neon magenta and deep navy blue. Its face is coral pink and its tail emerald green with a small black eyespot. Males and females are identical. They may bully other fish, especially passive species or those with a similar shape; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. It grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Considered by many to be the pinnacle of reef-keeping success, Acropora corals are extremely demanding, but just as rewarding if given proper care. They require exceptionally stable water quality which can only be provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and commonly cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Any instability leads to extreme stress which may lead to bleaching or tissue necrosis.They are very prone to pests, such as the red bug copepod, gorilla crabs, vermetid and Drupella sp. snails, some Asterina sp. starfish, nudibranches, flat worms, and boring sponges. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Shallow water species have densely clustered polyps and need the brightest light, while those naturally from deeper water have sparse polyps with smooth skin and tolerate lower light levels. Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Species with thicker branches demand the highest water flow. Acropora are related to Montipora but tend to be much more difficult to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion nematocyst laden acontia filaments, which are digestive organs that can kill neighboring corals.With a huge diversity of dazzling colors and shapes, it’s no wonder Acropora are some of the most popular corals of all. Colored Australian specimens are typically brighter and more impressively hued than those from other locations. It may be nearly any color of the rainbow, and many specimens are multicolored. Many species will display white or contrasting colored growth tips. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Albino Corydora Corydoras aeneus Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Albino Cory Cat Specifics Albino Corydoras are peaceful and only grow to 2 inches. They prefer a temperature between 72-79oF, a pH of 5.8-7.0.
Altum Peruvian Angelfish Pterophyllum scalare Freshwater Angels come in a variety of different colours and patterns, with long wispy fins that flow elegantly behind them. Though considered semi-aggressive, this behavior is only exhibited from breeding pairs who wish to protect their territory. They do like to live amongst other angels so long as they are provided with enough space. They are peaceful toward other community fish. Angels can grow to a size of 6 inches from the tip of their nose to the end length of their tail. They are not the most active fish and like to hover around in open spaces of the tank, so they require a tank of at least 30 gallons, more for a large school. Angels need to be fed a variety of meaty foods such as brine shrimp and vegetables in the form of high-quality flake or pellet food. Altum Peruvian Angelfish Specifics The Altum Peruvian Angelfish are considered semi-aggressive fish that grow to a size of 6 inches. They like their temperatures between 75-82oF, pH between 6.0-7.5.
Amano Shrimp Caridina multidentata Amano shrimp are another popular choice of shrimps for the freshwater aquarium. They are peaceful shrimps whose only goal is to eat up algae and other organic debris. Their colors do not stand out like the Neocaridina shrimps do, as Amano shrimps are translucent with faint patterns on their backs. They should be housed in a planted tank to provide them grazing space, as well as to give them shaded areas to feel secure in. They should not be kept with larger, more aggressive fish. They grow much larger than the other dwarf shrimp, up to a maximum of 2 inches. They prefer their water temperature between 60-80F, pH between 6.0-7.6, and a TDS reading between 80-400.
Spindly legs and a pointy head make this crab look more like a spider. Its long legs give it a good vantage point to search for its preferred prey- bristle worms. It may decimate populations of these useful scavengers in small aquariums, so is normally best kept in large tanks. It will also eagerly feed on fish food. Because of its large size and strength it may prey on other crustaceans, even those of similar size such as Coral Banded shrimp. It can grow up to a 6 inches leg span.
Assorted Molly Poecilia latipinna Molly fish are a hardy, easy fish that can be acclimated to either salt or freshwater. They are compatible with smaller community fish and larger fish. Mollies tend to have a bigger appetite than most fish, so it is recommended to have a good filtration system to make up for the extra feedings they will want. Mollys can grow to a length of 5 inches, and while they do not school they do swim in a shoaling pattern, so they prefer to be with their own kind. A group of 5 is recommended for them to feel safe in the aquarium. They are omnivores and prefer both meaty foods and algae. High quality flake food should be given alongside freeze-dried bloodworms and brine shrimp. Assorted Mollies come in a variety of colors and patterns, giving you the choice of trying a vast assortment of unique fish for your home aquarium. Most Assorted Mollies grow to a size of at least 4-1/2", so a tank of at least 30g for a group of at least 5 is optimum. They prefer their water to be between 68-82oF and their pH between 7.0-8.0.
Assorted Neocaridina Shrimp Neocaridina sp Neocaridina shrimp are by far the most popular freshwater invertebrate in the market. They come in almost every color with varying degrees of boldness to provide you with that extra pop of color for your tank. Neocaridinas are a peaceful shrimp whose diet consists of algae and various other organic debris they come across, making them an invaluable addition to your tanks cleanup crew. Neocaridina shrimp are generally easy to care for when provided with the right aquarium set up. They do well in aquariums with good filtration and stable water quality, preferring slightly harder water with a gH of at least 5 to show their best color. Neocaridinas also like to live in groups, a minimum of 3 shrimps is recommended and they should be housed in a tank that is at least 3 gallons. A planted aquarium is preferred as it provides many spaces to scavenge and hide but is not necessarily required.
The popular Astrea snail has a pointy white shell often covered in coralline algae. It is a terrific algae eater for the glass and rocks and grows to 1 inch. It is commonly available from Florida. It should be placed right side up on the sand near the glass after acclimation. It is adapted to rocky habitats; if it falls onto its back on the aquarium's sand it is not physically able to flip over and must be assisted. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Atlantic blue tang is a beautiful fish imported from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is a bright yellow all over with a blue eye. As it grows the yellow turns blue, finally becoming a deep navy with horizontal scribbled lines over its body. The tail sometimes remains yellow. Males and females are visually identical. The Atlantic blue tang can grow to be approximately 9 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
The beautiful Auriga, or Threadfin butterflyfish, is a striking fish with a bold black mask over its eyes and an eyespot on its dorsal fin. Its body is snowy white in front and lemony yellow in the rear, and is decorated with criss-cross lines. Mature fish have a trailing fin ray from their dorsal fin. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali. This species can be quite aggressive towards its own kind and those with similar color patterns. If several are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a large aquarium. It is normally non-aggressive with all other types of fish. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.Sought after not only for its super saturated colors but also its peaceful demeanor- it is known to be one of the least aggressive damselfish. Grows up to 4 Inches.
The Babylon snail has a large cream colored shell with orange blotches and is also known as the Leopard Nassarius. It hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. It may attack smaller snails and clams. This efficient clean-up critter grows to 3 inches and is similar to the Olive snail. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Brown Barred sleeper goby has a beautiful dark body compared to most other sand sifting gobies, giving it a lovely contrast against white sand. Mature fish have wide charcoal colored bands on their bodies, and each band is outlined in a shimmering blue. Red polka dots adorn their forehead, and their cheeks have blue stripes. Their fins have even more polka dots and gorgeous black edging. It is also known by the common names of dragon and bullet goby. It may be helpful in consuming flatworms and algae from the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Bangaii, or Kaudern’s cardinal, is a very popular fish and it’s easy to see why. Its long fins are decorated with countless stark white speckles over inky black. Its shiny silvery body is also banded with pure black stripes. It always holds its fins erect giving it a striking silhouette.The Bangaii Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. Unlike other cardinals they prefer to live singly or in a mated pair and do not school well with their own kind or other cardinals. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but will need time to adapt to dry food.It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. The bangaii cardinal grows up to 3 Inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a single fish and 30 gallons or larger for a pair.Wild populations of this fish are found only within the Banggai Archipelago in Indonesia and are endangered, so as such we only offer this species when available tank bred. It has been known to spawn even in community aquariums. Pairs will swim and rest together most of the time and may be extremely aggressive towards others of the same species. After breeding, the male will hold the eggs in his mouth to protect them. It may take several weeks for the eggs to hatch, during which time the male does not feed. Once released the baby fish find shelter within the spines of the Long Spine urchin, their stripes providing excellent camouflage. If an urchin is not available then a substitute shelter will be used, usually a coral or mangrove.Males and females are very similar; there are a few very subtle differences on adult fish. Males may have a more square shaped jaw and a slightly longer second dorsal fin. On well fed adults it may also be noted that females appear to have one vent while males have two.
The Bar or Zebra dart goby is a breathtaking beauty. Electric orange bars are etched along its slender body. Its eye shines sapphire blue and it has magenta stripes on its face. All this over a body the color of mother-of-pearl to olive. Mature fish exhibit dark shading on the face making them even more attractive. They are an impressive fish on their own but look even better in a group of at least three individuals, although we find six or more to be incredibly impressive. It schools well with other dart fishes as well. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.This beautiful species originates from the Great Barrier Reef of Australia and surrounding area. It is a warm caramel color with two stripes, one behind the eye and the other on the mid-body. Its tail may be edged in white as a juvenile and fully white in mature females.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Bennett's Toby puffer is a assorted colored polka dots coating its light colored body. The Bennett's Toby can grow up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Betta - Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Betta - Fancy Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A common import from the Philippines and Bali, this handsome fish is mostly black with its tail end appearing to have been dipped in white paint; in the light the eye may show blue. It is a fast swimmer that sometimes chases other fish and may nip their fins. Grows up to 3 Inches.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
An eye catching and popular fish, the Yellow tang is a real favorite out of Hawaii. Its entire body is a bright lemon color, and only its dark pupil and white scalpel are different shades. Its appealing round shape with its fan shaped tail and long snout give it an appealing silhouette. Males and females are visually identical.The Yellow tang can grow to be approximately 8 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 100 gallons or larger. It may be aggressive to other fish with similar features, such as shape or color, and to fish added after it is established. Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The unique Bird wrasse makes an incredible display in a large aquarium. Its distinctive feature is its elongated snout. Males are an intense green ranging from jade to emerald with brighter fins, while females are warm earthy shades with white bellies and a dark spot on each scale, and a bright caramel stripe on their snouts. Mature dominant males may develop a bulge on their snouts. It grows up to 11 inche and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The Heraldi angel is entirely a very bright yellow color all over, with stripes of pale orange over the fins. It is also known as the false lemon peel angelfish. Males and females are visually identical.The Heraldi angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The stunning Black Heniochus develops an extremely high, trailing dorsal fin spike. Against its shimmery white body are bold black stripes, and its rear fins are painted lemon yellow. It looks somewhat like a Moorish Idol but is much easier to keep. It is very similar in appearance to the Schooling Heniochus but is much more common. It can be distinguished by its longer snout, less rounded breast, and anal fin which extends nearly to the tip of its caudal fin and is colored more white than black. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali and the Philippines.This species is very hardy and normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups as long as all individuals are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Heniochus do not show differences between males and females. Heniochus are also known as bannerfish and are related to butterflyfish and angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.Butterflyfish and bannerfish may eat anemones, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The fish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is lots of live rock to hide in, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
An amazing fish with huge fins which dance in the water with every movement, each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply.The Black Knobby cucumber is pure black with small spines along its sides. It is a useful sand stirring animal which digs down into the deeper layers of substrate. It ingests sand and digests any organic matter. Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply. Sand should be minimum 3 inches deep. It may grow up to 12 inches long and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The Black clownfish is incredibly dark inky black with three stark white stripes. Juveniles may be mostly orange, however they will darken with age. It may maintain an orange nose through adulthood, or turn completely black.
Elegant lines combined with jet black color against stark white mark this unique and gorgeous fish. By breeding the highest grade of MochaVinci with a Black Ocellaris this new variety was created. It is notable for its white pattern which no longer resembles stripes; instead, a bold white face mask blends into a unique combination of white and black which often defies description.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.
Bass and Basslets make wonderful peaceful community fish and are also coral safe. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for Basslets which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and groups of multiple individuals. There are no differences between males and females. Basslets feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming.They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen meaty foods, and may learn to take dry foods in time. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.Stunning royal purple coats the Blackcap over its entire body, except for its namesake cap of inky black which also runs through its dorsal fin. It is one of the brightest and most exquisite of all the basslets. It is collected occasionally from deep waters of the Caribbean. It is peaceful and invertebrate safe, except for very small shrimp and crabs, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. The Blackcap basslet grows to 4 inches.
