Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.A very popular and commonly available fish, also known as the white tail humbug. A similar fish is the 4 stripe damsel, which has a black tail. In the wild it may hide amongst Acropora branches, however in the aquarium it will appreciate rock with many hiding places. Grows up to 4 Inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Lined wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are easy to feed and usually learn to take dry foods, as well as have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, and worms. They may also eat several pests of corals and clams including flatworms, bristleworms and pyramid snails. They do not bother corals or anemones.At night time lined wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The 6 Line wrasse is an incredibly bright and feisty little fish. Its body is alternating stripes of neon magenta and deep navy blue. Its face is coral pink and its tail emerald green with a small black eyespot. Males and females are identical. They may bully other fish, especially passive species or those with a similar shape; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. It grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Albino Corydora Corydoras aeneus Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Albino Cory Cat Specifics Albino Corydoras are peaceful and only grow to 2 inches. They prefer a temperature between 72-79oF, a pH of 5.8-7.0.
Amano Shrimp Caridina multidentata Amano shrimp are another popular choice of shrimps for the freshwater aquarium. They are peaceful shrimps whose only goal is to eat up algae and other organic debris. Their colors do not stand out like the Neocaridina shrimps do, as Amano shrimps are translucent with faint patterns on their backs. They should be housed in a planted tank to provide them grazing space, as well as to give them shaded areas to feel secure in. They should not be kept with larger, more aggressive fish. They grow much larger than the other dwarf shrimp, up to a maximum of 2 inches. They prefer their water temperature between 60-80F, pH between 6.0-7.6, and a TDS reading between 80-400.
Spindly legs and a pointy head make this crab look more like a spider. Its long legs give it a good vantage point to search for its preferred prey- bristle worms. It may decimate populations of these useful scavengers in small aquariums, so is normally best kept in large tanks. It will also eagerly feed on fish food. Because of its large size and strength it may prey on other crustaceans, even those of similar size such as Coral Banded shrimp. It can grow up to a 6 inches leg span.
Assorted Molly Poecilia latipinna Molly fish are a hardy, easy fish that can be acclimated to either salt or freshwater. They are compatible with smaller community fish and larger fish. Mollies tend to have a bigger appetite than most fish, so it is recommended to have a good filtration system to make up for the extra feedings they will want. Mollys can grow to a length of 5 inches, and while they do not school they do swim in a shoaling pattern, so they prefer to be with their own kind. A group of 5 is recommended for them to feel safe in the aquarium. They are omnivores and prefer both meaty foods and algae. High quality flake food should be given alongside freeze-dried bloodworms and brine shrimp. Assorted Mollies come in a variety of colors and patterns, giving you the choice of trying a vast assortment of unique fish for your home aquarium. Most Assorted Mollies grow to a size of at least 4-1/2", so a tank of at least 30g for a group of at least 5 is optimum. They prefer their water to be between 68-82oF and their pH between 7.0-8.0.
Assorted Platy
Xiphophorus sp.
Platys are a great option to add some color into your tank whilekeeping things peaceful. This fish is known for being a prolific livebearer, reproducing often in community tanks in which they feel safe in. Because of this they are recommended to be kept in mostly female dominated groups, or at least a ratio of two females for every male. Platys typically reach a size of 2 inches, so a tank of at least 10 gallons would best fit this fish. They will not appreciate being housed with species that are known for being more aggressive and nippier, so peaceful fish are their preferred tank mates. They also will prefer a well planted tank to feel secure. Platys are omnivores and will take high-quality pellets, flakes, and brine shrimp.
Assorted Platy Specifics
Assorted Platy can come in all variations of colours and patterning. They are a peaceful fish that grows up to 4 inches. Their temperature should be between 64-82oF, at a pH of 7.0-8.3.
The popular Astrea snail has a pointy white shell often covered in coralline algae. It is a terrific algae eater for the glass and rocks and grows to 1 inch. It is commonly available from Florida. It should be placed right side up on the sand near the glass after acclimation. It is adapted to rocky habitats; if it falls onto its back on the aquarium's sand it is not physically able to flip over and must be assisted. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Atlantic blue tang is a beautiful fish imported from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is a bright yellow all over with a blue eye. As it grows the yellow turns blue, finally becoming a deep navy with horizontal scribbled lines over its body. The tail sometimes remains yellow. Males and females are visually identical. The Atlantic blue tang can grow to be approximately 9 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.Sought after not only for its super saturated colors but also its peaceful demeanor- it is known to be one of the least aggressive damselfish. Grows up to 4 Inches.
The Babylon snail has a large cream colored shell with orange blotches and is also known as the Leopard Nassarius. It hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. It may attack smaller snails and clams. This efficient clean-up critter grows to 3 inches and is similar to the Olive snail. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Brown Barred sleeper goby has a beautiful dark body compared to most other sand sifting gobies, giving it a lovely contrast against white sand. Mature fish have wide charcoal colored bands on their bodies, and each band is outlined in a shimmering blue. Red polka dots adorn their forehead, and their cheeks have blue stripes. Their fins have even more polka dots and gorgeous black edging. It is also known by the common names of dragon and bullet goby. It may be helpful in consuming flatworms and algae from the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Pipefish are gentle fish related to seahorses. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, seahorses, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species. Most pipefish are imported from the Philippines.If given enough space pipefish do not fight amongst each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. Female pipefish generally have brighter and more contrasting colors than do males. If multiple fish are kept together the females may flash their colors at each other and attempt to woo a male. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch.Pipefish are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. They prefer to eat live foods, and do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Pipefish should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Pipefish feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of pipefish we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. br />The Banded pipefish is a beautiful fish with a long, slender body. Alternating bands of rusty red and pale yellow ring the fish from the tip of its elongated snout to its tail. Its large caudal fin is a bright red and white, like a round flag. It swims in a beautiful undulating motion through the water. It grows up to 8 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.The Banded pipefish spends most of its day out in the open, but does appreciate caves and overhangs where it may retreat. Because of its large adult size, caution should be used if combining it with very small tank mates, as some tiny gobies or very young fish may be mistaken for food.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.
The Berghia nudibranch is a highly specialized predator which only consumes Aiptasia anemones. It is very small and may become sucked into powerheads so all pumps should be screened. It is nocturnal and may only emerge at night. Typically multiple specimens are employed to rid an aquarium of Aiptasia, and since they feed slowly it is the eventual Nudibranch offspring which will make a noticeable impact on anemone populations. It is extremely sensitive to changes in water quality and is only recommended for expert aquarists.
Betta - Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Betta - Fancy Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
The bi-color angel is a very brightly colored and commonly available fish. Its body is divided in half with the head and shoulder region being bright yellow, the rear half dark navy blue, and the entire tail yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The bi-color angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Friendly by nature, they are rarely aggressive except towards other parrotfish. They are very active and require plenty of open space for swimming. Their teeth are fused together and resemble the beak of a tropical bird; they are powerful animals and regularly take bites out of the reef, eating algae, rock and coral alike. Soft coral and motile invertebrates are typically safe from their ravenous appetites; however they should receive plenty of high quality food throughout the day. Marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality items should be offered at least three times a day. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Bi-Color parrotfish is a striking fish most commonly available in its juvenile coloration. It has a snowy white body with jet black and bright orange markings. Most notably a wide orange band covers its face and eyes, which are also orange. This band is outlined in black giving it spectacular contrast. A black eyespot on the dorsal fin is highlighted with orange, and orange dusts the caudal fin as well. As an adult it is primarily super saturated robin's egg blue with its features and scales outlined with magenta. Males and females are identical. The Bi-Color parrotfish grows to 31.5 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.
Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Black Cap jawfish has bold colorful markings and an inquisitive nature. It wears a black mask over its face, and its creamy colored body is marked by rusty orange stripes. Its rear fins are a bright lemon yellow, and a small black spot is present at the front of its dorsal fin. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The stunning Black Heniochus develops an extremely high, trailing dorsal fin spike. Against its shimmery white body are bold black stripes, and its rear fins are painted lemon yellow. It looks somewhat like a Moorish Idol but is much easier to keep. It is very similar in appearance to the Schooling Heniochus but is much more common. It can be distinguished by its longer snout, less rounded breast, and anal fin which extends nearly to the tip of its caudal fin and is colored more white than black. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali and the Philippines.This species is very hardy and normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups as long as all individuals are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Heniochus do not show differences between males and females. Heniochus are also known as bannerfish and are related to butterflyfish and angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.Butterflyfish and bannerfish may eat anemones, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The fish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is lots of live rock to hide in, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. Premium fish have more white than the regular Black Ice; the head stripe and second stripe connect on both sides of the fish. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
An amazing fish with huge fins which dance in the water with every movement, each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply.The Black Knobby cucumber is pure black with small spines along its sides. It is a useful sand stirring animal which digs down into the deeper layers of substrate. It ingests sand and digests any organic matter. Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply. Sand should be minimum 3 inches deep. It may grow up to 12 inches long and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Elegant lines combined with jet black color against stark white mark this unique and gorgeous fish. By breeding the highest grade of MochaVinci with a Black Ocellaris this new variety was created. It is notable for its white pattern which no longer resembles stripes; instead, a bold white face mask blends into a unique combination of white and black which often defies description.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
The Blue angel is a large and impressive fish from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is blue and yellow with pale vertical stripes over its body. When it matures its body becomes lighter and each scale is edged in lighter yellow, making a latticework effect. The edges of its fins become edged in bright blue and yellow. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. It is similar in appearance to the Queen angel, however the Blue angel lacks the 'crown' and only the edge of its tail is bright yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Blue angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It may become aggressive, especially towards other angelfish. Because of this it should be the last fish added to the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A large and handsome chromis from the Caribbean, this species is unlike most others in that it may bicker profusely with its own kind and is usually best kept alone, except in large aquariums. Its whole body is a shimmering deep sapphire with inky black outlining the fins, giving it a very elegant appearance. Grows up to 5 Inches.
The Blue Face angel has two distinct and equally lovely color forms which changes as it grows. As a juvenile it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the stripes fade away and each body scale becomes edged in pale yellow creating a latticework effect. Its face remains blue with a distinct bright yellow mask over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The blue face angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Blue Face angel has two distinct and equally lovely color forms which changes as it grows. As a juvenile it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the stripes fade away and each body scale becomes edged in pale yellow creating a latticework effect. Its face remains blue with a distinct bright yellow mask over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The blue face angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
A spectacular fish from the Caribbean, the Blue Hamlet is uniquely hued bright cerulean blue all over. Only its eyes and the edging to its caudal fin are dark. It has a large head and humped back. Males and females are identical. It grows to 5 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.Because of its large mouth we don't recommend mixing Hamlets with diminutive fish or crustaceans, especially shrimp, as it may eat them. It is safe with all corals and is friendly with all other fish too large to swallow. Hamlets behave like small peaceful groupers, or large hawkfish; however unlike the hawkfish the hamlet has no trouble swimming. It may choose an area in the rockwork to call its own and may chase other fish away from its territory. It also appreciates plenty of space to swim. It is best to keep only one hamlet per aquarium unless over 100 gallons can be devoted to each hamlet and they are added at the same time.Hamlets are carnivorous and should be fed high quality meaty items such as Mysis, chopped krill, clams, silver sides and other high quality meaty items, preferably more than once a day. They usually learn to accept dry foods and are quite hardy and easy to keep.
Hermit crabs need to live inside of a snail shell in order to keep their soft bodies safe. Even with many shells available hermit crabs will occasionally kill snails in order to take their shell. Please ask our staff and we will be happy to supply you with some empty shells.This is one of our most popular hermit crabs. It is colorful, stays small, and eats a wide variety of algae including some hair algae. It is typically imported from Florida. It is considered reef safe, however it is an opportunistic omnivore and will take food where it can find it. It will also eat fish food, detritus and anything else edible.
The Blue Lined tang is also called the elongate surgeonfish because of its long shape when fully mature. It has a gorgeous silvery body with blue squiggles running along its body. As it grows it develops a yellow mark on its lips and over its eyes, giving it a distinct look. Males and females are visually identical.The Blue Lined tang can grow to be approximately 1.5 feet long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 360 gallons or larger.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Blue Moscow Guppy Poecilia reticulata Guppies are one of the most popular freshwater fish by far with their stunning colours and peaceful temperament. They should be housed with other peaceful fish, and if mixed with female guppies, you should stick to a ratio of 2 females for every male guppy. They are omnivores, so a diet of algae based foods as well as meaty foods would serve them best. They reach a final size of around 2.5 inches and require at least a tank of 10 gallons. Their temperature should be between 64-82oF, pH between 5.5-8.0.
The Blue Ring angel is a tall bodied beauty with unique juvenile and adult colorations. When young it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body and a white tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; Its body takes on an intense rusty coloration and its stripes extend from its face up towards the tip of its dorsal fin which ends in a point. Its tail becomes pale yellow, the pectoral fins deep yellow to orange, and a distinctive ring forms behind the eye which is ringed in blue. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Blue Ring angel can grow to be approximately 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.A rainbow of colors decorates the flanks of the male Blue Sided Fairy; warm shades of hot pink and yellow intermingle, and each scale has a dark contrasting edge. Terminal males have a rhomboid shaped tail. Both males and females have olive colored hoods, but female's flanks are more subdued shades of warm rose. Females also have numerous tiny white speckles on their backs and a black eyespot at the base of the tail. This species is normally very peaceful; it grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Borbonius anthias is a rare and special gem from deep waters. Its stocky body is rose color with blotches of amber and peach. Its bright yellow fins are edged in magenta, and its eyes are yellow and blue. Each ray of its dorsal fin is an attractive spike. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.As a deep water species they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Juveniles may swim together but adults may bicker. Tank mates should be peaceful in nature. The Borbonius anthias is a special order item; please contact our staff and we will be happy to prepare your order.
Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.The Bristle Tail filefish is famous for its appetite for nuisance Aiptasia anemones. It has an olive to cream colored body arranged in a blotchy mottled pattern. It is able to freely lighten and darken its coloration at will, helping it to blend in with sea grasses. Along its tail are small prickly spines like Velcro, which may become easily tangled in a net. We recommend a container always be used to transport this fish. Males have larger bristles than females. Fish that graze on the rockwork may mistake the Bristle Tail filefish's body for algae and pick on them. It grows up to 4 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.The Bubble Tip anemone is the best first choice anemone as it tolerates a wide variety of lighting and aquarium conditions. It may grow up to 12 inches but typically divides into two or more specimens before reaching a large size. Its tentacles may take on a bulbous appearance or be long and thin. Both shapes can be found on healthy specimens, and the shape may change depending on the animal's mood.Bubble tip anemone prefers to hide its foot in the rockwork. It may host with any type of clownfish, hosting easiest with Percula, Maroon, Ephippium, Tomato and Clarkii complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.The Bubble Tip anemone is the best first choice anemone as it tolerates a wide variety of lighting and aquarium conditions. It may grow up to 12 inches but typically divides into two or more specimens before reaching a large size. Its tentacles may take on a bulbous appearance or be long and thin. Both shapes can be found on healthy specimens, and the shape may change depending on the animal's mood.Bubble tip anemone prefers to hide its foot in the rockwork. It may host with any type of clownfish, hosting easiest with Percula, Maroon, Ephippium, Tomato and Clarkii complexes.
The attractive Bumble Bee snail has a jet black shell with bright yellow stripes. It actively patrols the rocks and sand in search of detritus and fish food to eat. It may also consume worms and micro-fauna in the substrate. It grows to 1 inch. It is commonly available from the Philippines. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
Bass and Basslets make wonderful peaceful community fish and are also coral safe. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for Basslets which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and groups of multiple individuals. There are no differences between males and females. Basslets feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming.They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen meaty foods, and may learn to take dry foods in time. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.No other fish on the reef can compare to the radiant colors of the Red Candy basslet. Its colors are so saturated they nearly jump off the fish! Fiery tangerine striped with marvelous magenta paints this fish from its nose to the end of its tail. Two jet black spots on its tail, one on its dorsal fin, and its black pupil are surrounded by sapphire blue to bright violet. It can be differentiated from similar basslets by having no black spot on its anal fin. Because of the great depths in which it lives it is rarely collected. It is peaceful and invertebrate safe, except for very small shrimp and crabs, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is relatively hardy once established, however may suffer from swim bladder damage and sensitivity to medications. The Red Candy basslet grows to 2.5 inches.
