This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.Emerging from separate, tube-like corallites are plump, fleshy polyps. The Australian colored variety is typically bright pink with neon green centers which may fluorescence under actinic lighting. The polyps may expand so much as to totally hide the underlying skeleton, but will fail to do so under intense lighting, thriving better under more subdued light.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Peaceful
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Lined wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are easy to feed and usually learn to take dry foods, as well as have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, and worms. They may also eat several pests of corals and clams including flatworms, bristleworms and pyramid snails. They do not bother corals or anemones.At night time lined wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The 6 Line wrasse is an incredibly bright and feisty little fish. Its body is alternating stripes of neon magenta and deep navy blue. Its face is coral pink and its tail emerald green with a small black eyespot. Males and females are identical. They may bully other fish, especially passive species or those with a similar shape; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. It grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Considered by many to be the pinnacle of reef-keeping success, Acropora corals are extremely demanding, but just as rewarding if given proper care. They require exceptionally stable water quality which can only be provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and commonly cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Any instability leads to extreme stress which may lead to bleaching or tissue necrosis.They are very prone to pests, such as the red bug copepod, gorilla crabs, vermetid and Drupella sp. snails, some Asterina sp. starfish, nudibranches, flat worms, and boring sponges. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Shallow water species have densely clustered polyps and need the brightest light, while those naturally from deeper water have sparse polyps with smooth skin and tolerate lower light levels. Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Species with thicker branches demand the highest water flow. Acropora are related to Montipora but tend to be much more difficult to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion nematocyst laden acontia filaments, which are digestive organs that can kill neighboring corals.With a huge diversity of dazzling colors and shapes, it’s no wonder Acropora are some of the most popular corals of all. Colored Australian specimens are typically brighter and more impressively hued than those from other locations. It may be nearly any color of the rainbow, and many specimens are multicolored. Many species will display white or contrasting colored growth tips. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Albino Bristlenose Pleco Ancistrus dolichopterus The Bristlenose Pleco, also known as the Bushy Nose or brushmouth pleco, are peaceful fish that are a popular choice for many aquariums. They spend their time primarily near the bottom of the tank, using the many whiskers around their mouths to detect food. Most, if not all of this fishes nutrition comes from leftover food and algae, so if your tank is lacking algae it is recommended to add some algae wafers for them to graze on. They prefer well planted tanks with plenty or rock and driftwood to imitate their natural habitat. Albino Bristlenose Pleco Specifics The Bristlemouth Pleco grows to a size of 6 inches and should be placed in a tank of at least 30 gallons. They prefer their water temperatures between 72-82oF, pH between 6.5-7.4.
Amano Shrimp Caridina multidentata Amano shrimp are another popular choice of shrimps for the freshwater aquarium. They are peaceful shrimps whose only goal is to eat up algae and other organic debris. Their colors do not stand out like the Neocaridina shrimps do, as Amano shrimps are translucent with faint patterns on their backs. They should be housed in a planted tank to provide them grazing space, as well as to give them shaded areas to feel secure in. They should not be kept with larger, more aggressive fish. They grow much larger than the other dwarf shrimp, up to a maximum of 2 inches. They prefer their water temperature between 60-80F, pH between 6.0-7.6, and a TDS reading between 80-400.
As the ocean's most spectacular ambush predators, it is no wonder lionfish are so popular. Their huge fins are used to confuse and herd smaller animals so the lionfish can swallow them whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving lionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. If added at the same time, and if of similar size, several lionfish may be kept together as long as there is at least one private refuge in the rocks for each fish. Most species are imported from Bali.The tips of the lionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the lionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Lionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.The Antennata lionfish is an incredible beauty sporting long white rays on its pectoral fins. A spectacular contrast is made between the spines and the alternating milky white and earthy brown to rust red bands running over the fish's body. Its face is white with a dark stripe running through each eye and extending into long 'horns'. Its fins are finely banded light and dark, and it can be distinguished from similar species because of the dark spots on its pectoral fins. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 8 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Assassin Snails Anetome Helena Assassin snails are true to their name - they will dutifully take care of pest snail populations in any aquarium. It is easy to unknowingly introduce pest snails as they are commonly brought in on plants as hitchhikers, and once in the tank their populations boom. Assassin snails are carnivorous and will eat any snail in the aquarium, so they are only recommended when you have pest snails the same size as assassin snails or smaller. The two most common pest snail that the assassin snails will take care of are Trumpet Snails and Ramshorn Snails. Assassin snails grow to a max size of 3 inches and are recommended to tanks of at least 30 gallons. The general rule of thumb is to have 5 assassin snails per every 15 gallons. They like their temperatures between 68-74oF, pH between 6.5-7.5.
Assorted Neocaridina Shrimp Neocaridina sp Neocaridina shrimp are by far the most popular freshwater invertebrate in the market. They come in almost every color with varying degrees of boldness to provide you with that extra pop of color for your tank. Neocaridinas are a peaceful shrimp whose diet consists of algae and various other organic debris they come across, making them an invaluable addition to your tanks cleanup crew. Neocaridina shrimp are generally easy to care for when provided with the right aquarium set up. They do well in aquariums with good filtration and stable water quality, preferring slightly harder water with a gH of at least 5 to show their best color. Neocaridinas also like to live in groups, a minimum of 3 shrimps is recommended and they should be housed in a tank that is at least 3 gallons. A planted aquarium is preferred as it provides many spaces to scavenge and hide but is not necessarily required.
The popular Astrea snail has a pointy white shell often covered in coralline algae. It is a terrific algae eater for the glass and rocks and grows to 1 inch. It is commonly available from Florida. It should be placed right side up on the sand near the glass after acclimation. It is adapted to rocky habitats; if it falls onto its back on the aquarium's sand it is not physically able to flip over and must be assisted. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Atlantic blue tang is a beautiful fish imported from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is a bright yellow all over with a blue eye. As it grows the yellow turns blue, finally becoming a deep navy with horizontal scribbled lines over its body. The tail sometimes remains yellow. Males and females are visually identical. The Atlantic blue tang can grow to be approximately 9 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
The beautiful Auriga, or Threadfin butterflyfish, is a striking fish with a bold black mask over its eyes and an eyespot on its dorsal fin. Its body is snowy white in front and lemony yellow in the rear, and is decorated with criss-cross lines. Mature fish have a trailing fin ray from their dorsal fin. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali. This species can be quite aggressive towards its own kind and those with similar color patterns. If several are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a large aquarium. It is normally non-aggressive with all other types of fish. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Babylon snail has a large cream colored shell with orange blotches and is also known as the Leopard Nassarius. It hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. It may attack smaller snails and clams. This efficient clean-up critter grows to 3 inches and is similar to the Olive snail. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Brown Barred sleeper goby has a beautiful dark body compared to most other sand sifting gobies, giving it a lovely contrast against white sand. Mature fish have wide charcoal colored bands on their bodies, and each band is outlined in a shimmering blue. Red polka dots adorn their forehead, and their cheeks have blue stripes. Their fins have even more polka dots and gorgeous black edging. It is also known by the common names of dragon and bullet goby. It may be helpful in consuming flatworms and algae from the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Bar or Zebra dart goby is a breathtaking beauty. Electric orange bars are etched along its slender body. Its eye shines sapphire blue and it has magenta stripes on its face. All this over a body the color of mother-of-pearl to olive. Mature fish exhibit dark shading on the face making them even more attractive. They are an impressive fish on their own but look even better in a group of at least three individuals, although we find six or more to be incredibly impressive. It schools well with other dart fishes as well. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Betta - Fancy Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Betta - Assorted Female Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A common import from the Philippines and Bali, this handsome fish is mostly black with its tail end appearing to have been dipped in white paint; in the light the eye may show blue. It is a fast swimmer that sometimes chases other fish and may nip their fins. Grows up to 3 Inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Cleaner wrasses are naturally bold and spend their days swimming in the open, often with a unique up and down dance used to attract the attention of client fish. Their natural foods are parasites such as amphipods as well as dead skin and scales from larger fish. Smaller parasites such as ICH may be ignored in favor of searching for a more substantial meal. They instinctively want to clean other fish from dawn until dusk, so they are only recommended for large aquariums with plenty of tank mates. Otherwise they may pester their tank mates so much the other fish may chase and bite them. They have no fear of huge fish, so caution should be used if adding them with fish such as groupers which may swallow them whole.It is difficult to meet their unique nutritional needs, and as such they often fair poorly in aquariums. If they will accept prepared items they should frequently be offered a wide variety of foods thorough the day. Cleaner wrasses are totally reef safe, except with Tridacnid clams. The spots on the clam's mantel may be mistaken for parasites and nipped on by the wrasse. Cleaner wrasses are friendly with every other type of fish, but are extremely territorial with each other and may fight violently. At night time or when frightened they will hide amongst the rocks.The Bicolor Cleaner wrasse has a striking combination of color and contrast. Its front half is a metallic blue and its rear half lemony yellow. A bold black stripe begins at its nose and extends all the way to the end of its flared tail fin. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.
An eye catching and popular fish, the Yellow tang is a real favorite out of Hawaii. Its entire body is a bright lemon color, and only its dark pupil and white scalpel are different shades. Its appealing round shape with its fan shaped tail and long snout give it an appealing silhouette. Males and females are visually identical.The Yellow tang can grow to be approximately 8 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 100 gallons or larger. It may be aggressive to other fish with similar features, such as shape or color, and to fish added after it is established. Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
The stunning Black Heniochus develops an extremely high, trailing dorsal fin spike. Against its shimmery white body are bold black stripes, and its rear fins are painted lemon yellow. It looks somewhat like a Moorish Idol but is much easier to keep. It is very similar in appearance to the Schooling Heniochus but is much more common. It can be distinguished by its longer snout, less rounded breast, and anal fin which extends nearly to the tip of its caudal fin and is colored more white than black. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali and the Philippines.This species is very hardy and normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups as long as all individuals are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Heniochus do not show differences between males and females. Heniochus are also known as bannerfish and are related to butterflyfish and angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.Butterflyfish and bannerfish may eat anemones, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The fish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is lots of live rock to hide in, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. Premium fish have more white than the regular Black Ice; the head stripe and second stripe connect on both sides of the fish. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
An amazing fish with huge fins which dance in the water with every movement, each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply.The Black Knobby cucumber is pure black with small spines along its sides. It is a useful sand stirring animal which digs down into the deeper layers of substrate. It ingests sand and digests any organic matter. Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply. Sand should be minimum 3 inches deep. It may grow up to 12 inches long and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Black Rose Shrimp Neocaridina sp Neocaridina shrimp are by far the most popular freshwater invertebrate in the market. They come in almost every color with varying degrees of boldness to provide you with that extra pop of color for your tank. Neocaridinas are a peaceful shrimp whose diet consists of algae and various other organic debris they come across, making them an invaluable addition to your tanks cleanup crew. Neocaridina shrimp are generally easy to care for when provided with the right aquarium set up. They do well in aquariums with good filtration and stable water quality, preferring slightly harder water with a gH of at least 5 to show their best color. Neocaridinas also like to live in groups, a minimum of 3 shrimps is recommended and they should be housed in a tank that is at least 3 gallons. A planted aquarium is preferred as it provides many spaces to scavenge and hide but is not necessarily required.
