Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.An extremely rare and exquisite fish, the Peppermint, or Masudai hogfish, makes a spectacular showpiece animal. It has thick stripes running from its nose to its tail in alternating intense scarlet red and lemon yellow with a snowy white belly. Its tail is solid deep scarlet. A single black eyespot is located on its gill cover. With its active personality and dramatic coloration this fish is an exceptional treasure. Its solid colored tail differentiates it from the similar Crescent hogfish. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates. It is less likely than other hogfish to bother invertebrates, and even large shrimp may be safe if they are added before the hogfish. It grows up to 4.5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.Ours is the true Caribbean Peppermint from our trusted Florida supplier: guaranteed to eat Aiptasia anemones. The trick is to limit the amount of fish food available to the shrimp, who may not hunt anemones on a full stomach. The shrimp also relies on its own kind for assistance in killing the stinging anemones. It may pester other, larger anemones, and occasionally corals such as zoanthids, but typically ignores all other aquarium inhabitants. It likes to rest upside down in caves in groups, often waving its body back and forth. It is not to be confused for the superficially similar Camel shrimp. The Peppermint shrimp grows up to 1.5 inches.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The False Percula clownfish maintains its resemblance to its wild relatives- blazing orange while it's stripes may be broken or even missing.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines. This Misbar variety may have unique broken or teardrop shaped stripes.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.The True Percula clownfish maintains its resemblance to its wild relatives- blazing orange with three full white stripes.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The False Percula clownfish maintains its resemblance to its wild relatives- blazing orange with three full white stripes
The False Personifer angel is an uncommon and highly sought after fish. Its body is a pure deep black, with bright yellow accents on the chest, pectoral and pelvic fins. Its forehead is yellow, changing to white as it extends down to encircle the face, which is blueish to purple. Its tail is pure, lemony yellow. Mature males have many polka dots on their faces, whereas females do not.The False Personifer angel can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The True Personifer angel is a very rare and highly sought after fish. Its body is a pure deep black, with bright yellow accents on the chest, pectoral and pelvic fins. Its forehead is yellow, changing to white as it extends down to encircle the face, which is blueish to purple. Its tail is pure, lemony yellow with a black stripe through it, which distinguishes it from the false Personifer angel. Mature males have many polkadots on their faces, whereas females do not.The Personifer angel can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
An eerie mix of inky black under serrated, ghostly white stripes sets this clownfish apart from all others. It is a result of tireless breeding efforts, combining the Premium Snowflake, Black Ice and Black Ocellaris into something totally out of this world. Young fish may be mocha colored, but darken upon maturity. Premium fish have much more white which connects two stripes on at least one side.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
An eerie mix of inky black under serrated, ghostly white stripes sets this clownfish apart from all others. It is a result of tireless breeding efforts, combining the Premium Snowflake, Black Ice and Black Ocellaris into something totally out of this world. Young fish may be mocha colored, but darken upon maturity.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Each Picasso clownfish looks like it was designed by a great artist. It is bright orange with undulating stripes often in a puzzle-piece shape. It has been selectively bred so its stripes take on this interesting appearance, with each fish being unique. In the highest grade specimens the stripes may connect together.
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Ultra Colored Mushroom may be smooth or bumpy, and may come in any bright color of the rainbow. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Few fish can compare to the beauty of the rare Pictillis anthias. Both sexes are awash in color; males have a magenta back, orange face and ruby red tail. The middle of the caudal fin is pale yellow and the tips are white, making it look like a flag. Females are an intense pink with lemon yellow along the back and caudal fin. They are best kept singly, as a pair or small harem. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 125 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Few fish can compare to the beauty of the rare Pictillis anthias. Both sexes are awash in color; males have a magenta back, orange face and ruby red tail. The middle of the caudal fin is pale yellow and the tips are white, making it look like a flag. Females are an intense pink with lemon yellow along the back and caudal fin. They are best kept singly, as a pair or small harem. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 125 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Picture wrasse is also known as the Clouded wrasse, and true to its name it is as beautiful as a sky full of moody clouds lit by a colorful sunset. Against a backdrop of stunning turquoise are splotches of contrasting rusty red arranged as two broken stripes along its body. On its face the markings are short lines of brighter orange, and it has a distinctive pink blotch on its belly. Males and females are identical; females may have a larger pink blotch. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Pigeon Snakeskin Discus Symphysodon sp Discus are regarded as one of the most well-known fish to the freshwater hobby, popularized by their striking colors and patterns. They are a peaceful fish that only become territorial while they are breeding. They grow to roughly 8" and would prefer a taller rather than wider tank of at least 60 gallons. They like their water between 79-86oF, a pH between 6,1-7.5, and dKH between 3-8. They are primarily carnivores, so providing them with high quality flake food, frozen shrimp, and Discus pellet food will benefit them. Because of their eating habits their water must be cleaned more often than other freshwater species, as they are more likely to do unwell in poor water conditions. Pigeon Snake Discus are adorned with a brilliant red patterning of spots and broken lines across a white body and lacks the darker vertical stress bars often seen in many types of Discus.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Pink Albino Angelfish Pterophyllum scalare Freshwater Angels come in a variety of different colours and patterns, with long wispy fins that flow elegantly behind them. Though considered semi-aggressive, this behavior is only exhibited from breeding pairs who wish to protect their territory. They do like to live amongst other angels so long as they are provided with enough space. They are peaceful toward other community fish. Angels can grow to a size of 6 inches from the tip of their nose to the end length of their tail. They are not the most active fish and like to hover around in open spaces of the tank, so they require a tank of at least 30 gallons, more for a large school. Angels need to be fed a variety of meaty foods such as brine shrimp and vegetables in the form of high- quality flake or pellet food. Pink Albino Angelfish Specifics The Pink Albino Angelfish are considered semi-aggressive fish that grow to a size of 6 inches. They like their temperatures between 75-82oF, pH between 5.8-8.0, and dKH between1-5.
The Pink Bar goby is a beautiful sand dwelling fish with bright rosy pink bands that wrap around the entire fish. One of the bands extends into the center of its caudal fin, which is otherwise intense sunny yellow with dark pink spots. Another dark pink stripe runs below its eyes. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. It prefers to pair with the Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply.Also known as the Pink Hotdog, this species is a bright pink color with darker speckles. It is a useful sand stirring animal which typically stays near the surface layers of substrate. It ingests sand and digests any organic matter. Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply. Sand should be minimum 3 inches deep. It may grow up to 12 inches long and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Pink Pencil wrasse is a female fish, which can be kept alone or in groups with other females and no more than one male. She is typically a bright salmon to delicate rose color with a lighter belly and a golden yellow eye. If kept alone or with other females, the dominant fish may transition into a male, who is typically bright emerald green with stripes of many contrasting colors. Pencil wrasses grow up to 4.5 inches and need an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.The delightful Pink skunk clownfish has a solid rose to peach colored body with translucent fins, a thin cheek stripe and another long stripe running from its nose, along its back to its tail.
Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply.This delightful animal is a yellowish to greenish color with large bubble-gum pink spines protruding from its sides. Its feathery feeding tentacles are the same hues as its body. It uses its tiny tube feet to attach itself to its environment in an area of high water flow, extending its feeding tentacles to catch tiny floating food particles from the water. If provided with enough food it may reproduce by division. It grows up to 5 inches long.Covers over all intakes are required or the cucumber may accidently become sucked inside. Like other filter-feeding cucumbers its body contains holothurin toxin. This species may poison the water if dying or harassed by its tank mates. Butterflyfish, angelfish and other animals who pick on invertebrates should never be kept with filter-feeding cucumbers. A water change and fresh carbon should be used if it is noticed a cucumber has died. Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums and addition of supplemental foods such as phytoplankton. If it is starving it may shrink in size or lose its feeding tentacles, at which point food supply should be increased.
The Pink Spot goby is covered in attractive magenta spots and squiggles over its creamy colored body making an incredible contrast. It may also show darker bands over its back and face. Males and females are visually identical. It is one of the larger shrimp gobies, growing up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 15 gallons or larger. It may eat ornamental shrimp. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Lined wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are easy to feed and usually learn to take dry foods, as well as have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, and worms. They may also eat several pests of corals and clams including flatworms, bristleworms and pyramid snails. They do not bother corals or anemones.At night time lined wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Pink Streak wrasse is a diminutive darling with attractive colors and personality. Its body is a deep coral pink with delicate rose to daffodil colored stripes. Unlike other lined wrasses it is quite peaceful and will not bully its tank mates. It should never be kept with aggressive species, especially other lined wrasses. Males and females are nearly identical, however males may have brighter yellow stripes and blue markings on their gill covers. In many ways the Pink Streak wrasse is similar to possum wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The lovely Pink Tail triggerfish has a beautiful tail the color of delicate rose petals. Its body is a contrasting dark olive with yellow highlighting its face and black edges to its fins. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 14 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Pinnate batfish is a large and impressive fish with huge fins. As a juvenile the fins are much larger than its body and it is taller than it is long. It is deep velvety black and completely outlined in an intense fiery red-orange, granting it the common name red-rimmed batfish. In nature it lives on the reefs and as an immature fish would normally be at risk from predation, however its coloration mimics a toxic flatworm which other fish would definitely not want to eat. If the young Pinnate batfish feels threatened it may lay down against the rocks or glass, furthering its disguise.As it matures it gradually grows into its fins. A vertical silver band develops on the fish's body and gradually expands to cover the entire fish. Darker ashy stripes pass over the fish's eye, shoulder and rear body. Lemony yellow appears on the pectoral and rear fins and tail. Males and females are visually identical.Batfish are large and elegant fish with very high fins, therefore they should only be housed in large, deep aquaria to give them enough room to swim comfortably. The Longfin batfish can grow to be up to 20 inches long and we recommend an aquarium of at least 220 gallons and 30 inches deep. It is prone to being nipped on by other fish, so aggressive tank mates should be avoided at all costs. Batfish are omnivores which may nip on many types of corals, anemones, feather dusters and sponges. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that the batfish's fins don't touch the rocks or bottom of the aquarium. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. Size of food morsels should gradually increase as the fish grows. Juveniles should be fed at least three times a day, and adults at least once a day.
Few fish can compare to the spectacular Pintail wrasse- mature males have a long pointed tail fin and dazzling coloration. Bright pink, orange and yellow adorn its scales, and a contrasting purple stripe runs from its eye to its tail. Females and juveniles are more pastel pink with rounded tails. It may be kept in pairs or groups with one male and several females. This species is normally very peaceful; it grows up to 5" and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons for an individual, larger if you want to keep multiple. Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first. At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night. Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.
The thin calcite tubes created by this coral are very light-weight and may be blown away if the water current is too strong. Care must also be taken when handling the skeleton as it is easily crushed. Once settled in however it makes a very hardy addition. These corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton. Being highly adaptable and nearly pest and disease free makes them a great choice for beginners.Pipe Organ coral is composed of gorgeous flower-like polys emerging from contrasting scarlet tubes resembling that of a musical instrument. Its polyps may be shades of mint or lime to nearly stark white. The polyps may be long or short, and when fully emerged they obscure the tubes when viewed from the top. It resembles its close relative the Star Polyp, but grows much more slowly. This may be desirable when space is at a premium. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Strong Temperament: Peaceful
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.An attractive shrimp with bold red and white stripes, it makes the perfect pairing with a shrimp goby. It may be kept without its fish companion but is extremely secretive on its own. It grows up to 1.5 inches.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for it and the fish to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates. The pistol shrimp has an enlarged claw which may make a clicking or popping sound.If more than one pistol shrimp is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all tank mates, although there is a small threat to other crustaceans if the pistol shrimp is not getting enough food. To minimize this threat any sort of fish food may be placed at the tunnel entrance for the shrimp to collect.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.Pistol shrimp are extremely adept at tunneling under the sand, helping to clean and aerate the substrate. Most species are olive in color and may grow to 2 inches. This type does not bond with any other animals.The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It will make use of shells and crushed coral of various sizes which are important building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates. The pistol shrimp has an enlarged claw which may make a clicking or popping sound.If more than one pistol shrimp is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all tank mates, although there is a small threat to other crustaceans if the pistol shrimp is not getting enough food. To minimize this threat any sort of fish food may be placed at the tunnel entrance for the shrimp to collect.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.This attractive shrimp is bright orange with purple limbs and a large dark spot on its side; it is often called the Target or Bullseye shrimp. Pistol shrimp are extremely adept at tunneling under the sand, helping to clean and aerate the substrate. This type grows to 2 inches and does not bond with any other animals.The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It will make use of shells and crushed coral of various sizes which are important building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates. The pistol shrimp has an enlarged claw which may make a clicking or popping sound.If more than one pistol shrimp is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all tank mates, although there is a small threat to other crustaceans if the pistol shrimp is not getting enough food. To minimize this threat any sort of fish food may be placed at the tunnel entrance for the shrimp to collect.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.A lovely shrimp with yellow to rose color and thin pencil stripes along its body, and a bold white saddle on its back. It makes the perfect pairing with a shrimp goby. It may be kept without its fish companion but is extremely secretive on its own. It grows up to 2.5 inches.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for it and the fish to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates. The pistol shrimp has an enlarged claw which may make a clicking or popping sound.If more than one pistol shrimp is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all tank mates, although there is a small threat to other crustaceans if the pistol shrimp is not getting enough food. To minimize this threat any sort of fish food may be placed at the tunnel entrance for the shrimp to collect.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.This striking animal is intense scarlet with bright spots along its back, sides and antennae. Pistol shrimp are extremely adept at tunneling under the sand, helping to clean and aerate the substrate. This type grows to 3 inches and may bond with the Curlieque Anemone, creating a very unique display.The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. If provided with a Curlieque anemone its tunnel will be next to its partner. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It will make use of shells and crushed coral of various sizes which are important building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates. The pistol shrimp has an enlarged claw which may make a clicking or popping sound.If more than one pistol shrimp is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all tank mates, although there is a small threat to other crustaceans if the pistol shrimp is not getting enough food. To minimize this threat any sort of fish food may be placed at the tunnel entrance for the shrimp to collect.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.An attractive shrimp with fine red stripes, it makes the perfect pairing with a shrimp goby. It may be kept without its fish companion but is extremely secretive on its own. This species grows to 3 inches.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for it and the fish to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates. The pistol shrimp has an enlarged claw which may make a clicking or popping sound.If more than one pistol shrimp is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all tank mates, although there is a small threat to other crustaceans if the pistol shrimp is not getting enough food. To minimize this threat any sort of fish food may be placed at the tunnel entrance for the shrimp to collect.
Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.The Pixy hawkfish is a lovely fish with a delicate pink body covered in large blotches of deep pink to red. Each spiked ray of it dorsal fin is tuffed with furry cirri. It is similar to the Speckled hawkfish but does not grow as large. It can be quite aggressive for its size, and is recommended to be the last fish added to an aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also requires occasional feeding; it is able to consume foods such as mysis, enriched brine shrimp and pellets. It is often the favorite host of small commensal shrimp such as Periclimenes sp.When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It is prone to physical injury, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is less able to heal from these physical injuries than most other corals. It is however known to be virtually pest free.This interesting coral is free-living on the substrate, preferably sand or rubble. It has the ability to “walk” across the bottom and even over small rocks. It has some ability to rid itself of sand, however it takes a great deal of energy. Plate and Tongue corals of all kinds can live together as they do not sting each other. However, they may damage other corals by depositing thick mucus onto them.An often perfectly circular coral with short, wavy tentacles and a single mouth in the center, it makes a perfect addition to the lower areas of a reef. A variety of colors are possible, typically green or purple, sometimes with highlights of a contrasting color.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also requires occasional feeding; it is able to consume foods such as mysis, enriched brine shrimp and pellets. It is often the favorite host of small commensal shrimp such as Periclimenes sp.When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It is prone to physical injury, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is less able to heal from these physical injuries than most other corals. It is however known to be virtually pest free.This interesting coral is free-living on the substrate, preferably sand or rubble. It has the ability to “walk” across the bottom and even over small rocks. It has some ability to rid itself of sand, however it takes a great deal of energy. Plate and Tongue corals of all kinds can live together as they do not sting each other. However, they may damage other corals by depositing thick mucus onto them.An often perfectly circular coral with short, wavy tentacles and a single mouth in the center, it makes a perfect addition to the lower areas of a reef. A variety of colors are possible, often with highlights of a contrasting color. Ultra Australian specimens are more intensely colored than those from other countries.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also requires occasional feeding; it is able to consume foods such as mysis, enriched brine shrimp and pellets. It is often the favorite host of small commensal shrimp such as Periclimenes sp.When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It is prone to physical injury, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is less able to heal from these physical injuries than most other corals. It is however known to be virtually pest free.This interesting coral is free-living on the substrate, preferably sand or rubble. It has the ability to “walk” across the bottom and even over small rocks. It has some ability to rid itself of sand, however it takes a great deal of energy. Plate and Tongue corals of all kinds can live together as they do not sting each other. However, they may damage other corals by depositing thick mucus onto them.Waving its blunt tentacles alluringly in the current, this stony coral resembles an anemone in nearly every way. The tips of the tentacles are a contrasting hue or color than the rest of the coral. Australian specimens are more intensely colored than those from other countries.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also requires occasional feeding; it is able to consume foods such as mysis, enriched brine shrimp and pellets. It is often the favorite host of small commensal shrimp such as Periclimenes sp.When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It is prone to physical injury, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is less able to heal from these physical injuries than most other corals. It is however known to be virtually pest free.This interesting coral is free-living on the substrate, preferably sand or rubble. It has the ability to “walk” across the bottom and even over small rocks. It has some ability to rid itself of sand, however it takes a great deal of energy. Plate and Tongue corals of all kinds can live together as they do not sting each other. However, they may damage other corals by depositing thick mucus onto them.Waving its blunt tentacles alluringly in the current, this stony coral resembles an anemone in nearly every way. The tips of the tentacles are dazzling contrasting hue or color than the rest of the coral. Ultra Australian specimens are more intensely colored than those from other countries.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.The amazing Platinum clownfish is stark white over most of its body, its stripes having all joined together. Its face and fins are bright orange with pure black edging.
