The Orbiculate batfish is a large and impressive fish with huge fins. As a juvenile the fins are much larger than its body and it is taller than it is long. When very young it may be rusty colored all over with dark edges to its fins and a transparent tail, which disguises it as a dead leaf. When it grows a bit larger it has a light cream to yellow colored body with dark vertical bands in an earthy orange. These bands extend through the eye, shoulder and rear body. As it matures it gradually grows into its fins. Its body changes from cream to silver and the band through its rear body lightens; bright lemony yellow appears on all its fins and tail and its face becomes large and round. At this stage it is easy to see why it is also called the round face batfish. Males and females are visually identical.Batfish are large and elegant fish with very high fins, therefore they should only be housed in large, deep aquaria to give them enough room to swim comfortably. The Orbiculate batfish can grow to be up to 22 inches long and we recommend an aquarium of at least 220 gallons and 30 inches deep. As a small young fish it is prone to being nipped on by other fish, however as an adult it may chase and nip at other fish, especially those with a similar shape. This behaviour does not typically lead to violence and overall it is considered fairly peaceful. They are very personable and can learn to feed from their owner’s fingers.Batfish are omnivores which may nip on many types of corals, anemones, feather dusters and sponges. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that the batfish's fins don't touch the rocks or bottom of the aquarium. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.
The Orbiculate Cardinal fish makes a great addition to almost any aquarium. It has a yellowish body and wears a dark belt around its waist; its tail end is covered in dark polka dots. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4 inches.The Orbiculate Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It is extremely resilient and is a great fish for a new aquarium. It schools eagerly with it's own species and often with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food.It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish or pair, and 50 gallons or larger for a school.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The Orchid dottyback is a wonderful fish colored all over intense magenta. Its sapphire blue eyes have a black stripe running through them, which differentiates it from the similar Strawberry pseudochromis. The Orchid is well known for having a much more peaceful temperament compared to most other dottybacks. In the wild it is isolated in the Red Sea, however all of our Orchid dottybacks are tank bred. It may be kept in groups as long as there are plenty of hiding places and all individuals are added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium. Males and females are identical. It grows to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Sweetlips are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They are friendly with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, snails, serpent stars, and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be added at the same time. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Sweetlips feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least twice a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Harlequin sweetlips is often available as a cute juvenile which will grow into a large beast. Young fish are a dark coffee color with large white polka dots edged in fiery orange. When mature they are snow white with black stripes running the length of their bodies. Bright lemon yellow highlights their nose and all fins, which also develop black freckles. Males and females are identical. The Oriental Sweetlips grows up to 34 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Ornate Leopard wrasse is a delightful fish with incredible colors. Its body is a deep maroon, and each scale is dotted with a large turquoise spot. Its head is brighter orange with broad squiggles instead of spots. Females have a dark spot near the base of the pectoral fin called the humeral spot. Because of its similarity to the Blue and Red Leopard wrasses, the Ornate Leopard is sometimes referred to as the False Leopard. It is usually imported from the Indian Ocean. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Christmas wrasse is a stunning fish with an overall scarlet color. Each scale is decorated with a small turquoise spot, like a shining jewel. A thick turquoise stripe runs under its eye and tiny speckles cover its fins. Females and juveniles have one to two eyespots on the dorsal fin. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.The rare and elegant Maze coral is a cherished centerpiece to those few who are lucky enough to own one. It appears as meandering mountain ranges separated by V-shaped valleys, nearly always of contrasting colors. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. It may be one of two very similar species, which can attempt to be differentiated by the valleys, which may be wide if Oulophyllia and narrow if Leptoria. The ridges grow in wandering, random patterns, but in Oulophyllia they more often may connect, resembling puzzle pieces, whereas Leptoria’s more often form snake-like patterns.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament:Aggressive
This interesting coral most often takes on a plating shape, able to encrust onto and extend outward from the rockwork. Occasionally it may develop whirls, branches or crinkled shapes. Ultra Australian specimens are always vividly colored and are more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Echinophyllia corals are best known for their flashy, saturated colors, which may be nearly any color of the rainbow; many colonies show contrasting colors. It is similar to Mycedium and Oxypora, but tends to puff up its tissue more than its relatives, especially around the edges of the colony where it may extend up to an inch from the skeleton. Its large, raised corallites often point in many different angles. It is one of the hardiest and most adaptable of the Chalice corals. Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered small meaty items such as mysis and enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, and pellets. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. It is tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and not prone to pests.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
This interesting coral most often takes on a plating shape, able to encrust onto and extend outward from the rockwork. Occasionally it may develop whirls, branches or crinkled shapes. Ultra Australian specimens are always vividly colored and are more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Echinophyllia corals are best known for their flashy, saturated colors, which may be nearly any color of the rainbow; many colonies show contrasting colors. It is similar to Mycedium and Oxypora, but tends to puff up its tissue more than its relatives, especially around the edges of the colony where it may extend up to an inch from the skeleton. Its large, raised corallites often point in many different angles. It is one of the hardiest and most adaptable of the Chalice corals. Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered small meaty items such as mysis and enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, and pellets. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. It is tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and not prone to pests.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Gifted with a rainbow of colors and patterns over its scales, and a very peaceful demeanour, the Pajama cardinal fish is a wonderful addition to nearly any aquarium. Its eye is an intense scarlet red, matching the many polka-dots on its body. Its front half is bright yellow, and it has a dark belt across its middle. It always holds its fins erect which gives it a unique shape. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches.The Pajama Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It is happiest in groups of at least three individuals; it may school with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food.The Pajama cardinal has been known to spawn even in community aquariums. After breeding, the male will hold the eggs in his mouth to protect them. It may take several weeks for the eggs to hatch, during which time the male does not feed. It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a single fish and 30 gallons or larger for a school.
Gifted with a rainbow of colors and patterns over its scales, and a very peaceful demeanour, the Pajama cardinal fish is a wonderful addition to nearly any aquarium. Its eye is an intense scarlet red, matching the many polka-dots on its body. Its front half is bright yellow, and it has a dark belt across its middle. It always holds its fins erect which gives it a unique shape. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches.The Pajama Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It is happiest in groups of at least three individuals; it may school with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food.The Pajama cardinal has been known to spawn even in community aquariums. After breeding, the male will hold the eggs in his mouth to protect them. It may take several weeks for the eggs to hatch, during which time the male does not feed. It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a single fish and 30 gallons or larger for a school.
The glorious Pakistan, or Red Tail butterfly, appears to have been saturated in dark black ink. Towards its dorsal fin this dissipates into an intensely rich chocolate hue, and a contrasting dark stripe runs along the edges of its fins. Its caudal fin is bright scarlet red, and several stark white stripes run over its face. It grows up to 6.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons. It is usually imported from the Indian Ocean.This species is normally quite peaceful and, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be quite aggressive towards its own species; if several are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, especially hard corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species varies in its willingness to eat prepared foods, and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.
Panda Corydora Corydoras panda Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Panda Cory Cat Specifics Panda Corydoras are peaceful and only grow to 2.5 inches. They prefer a temperature between 72-79oF, a pH of 5.8-7.0.
The Panda Clown goby is an adorable micro-sized fish perfect for small aquariums. Its large rounded fins are deep velvety black, and its body a contrasting yellow. Often times its cheeks have a rosy hue. We typically receive this fish in a very small size, so appropriately sized food should be available. Baby brine shrimp and Calanus are good first choices. The panda goby will feel safe if provided with plenty of hiding places or Pocillopora coral to hide in. It is also known as the black fin coral goby. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1 inche.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Panda Veiltail Angelfish Pterophyllum scalare Freshwater Angels come in a variety of different colours and patterns, with long wispy fins that flow elegantly behind them. Though considered semi-aggressive, this behavior is only exhibited from breeding pairs who wish to protect their territory. They do like to live amongst other angels so long as they are provided with enough space. They are peaceful toward other community fish. Angels can grow to a size of 6 inches from the tip of their nose to the end length of their tail. They are not the most active fish and like to hover around in open spaces of the tank, so they require a tank of at least 30 gallons, more for a large school. Angels need to be fed a variety of meaty foods such as brine shrimp and vegetables in the form of high- quality flake or pellet food. Panda Veiltail Angelfish Specifics The Panda Veiltail Angelfish are considered semi-aggressive fish that grow to a size of 6". They like their temperatures between 75-82oF, pH between 5.8-8.0.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Like a loyal Dalmatian, the Panther grouper will become your favorite pet with spots. As a juvenile it is snowy white with large jet black polka-dots covering its whole body. When mature it becomes a more creamy grey and its black spots become smaller and more numerous. A few larger blotches of darker grey appear as well. Large individuals have a small head and a strongly arched nape, and are also known as the Humpback grouper. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 27 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 225 gallons.
The Passer angel is also known as the king angelfish, and it is indeed very impressive. It sports an uncommon fiery orange color over its body, scales edged in deep blue. Its tail fin is yellow, and there is a bright white stripe behind the pectoral fin. On its forehead is a blue 'crown' marking. As a juvenile it is mainly yellow with white vertical stripes edged in blue. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical.The Passer angel can grow to be up to 14 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It may become aggressive, especially towards other angelfish. Because of this it should be the last fish added to the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Pavona is known by many names including Cactus and Potato Chip coral. It may grow into any of a wide variety of delightful shapes including thin crinkled leaves, plates, waves, branches and antler-like forms, always with polyps on both sides.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also utilize dissolved nutrients in the water but has a weak feeding ability, possibly capturing particles with its mucus.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as it may grow sweeper tentacles from any location which can extend several inches.Pavona coral may be appreciated up close as it grows intricate patterns on its surface, dotted with very small, fine tentacles. It is very adaptable and quite disease resistant, making it a great choice for beginners. Color is typically tan with mint green polyps.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals. Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Slow
Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Pea Puffer (Dwarf Puffer) Carinotetraodon travancoricus Pea Puffers, also known as bumble puffers, dwarf puffers, and pygmy puffers, are the smallest pufferfish in the world and are readily available in the aquarium trade. Their temperament, given that they can be territorial, mostly depends on how well set up their home aquarium is. If given proper space, foliage to swim around in, and areas to claim as their own territory, they can be great tank mates. If they are not provided well enough aggression may spark and cause them to act out toward each other and other tank mates. You can keep one in a well-made tank of 5g, but if adding more puffers or other smaller peaceful fish, they must be put into a larger set up. A general rule is to add 3 gallons per extra added puffer, making a 10g tank for example, a good home for three puffers if given the right environment. Males have a deeper coloration with a stripe or dot on their belly, and females will have a more yellow colored body and rounder in shape. Pea Puffers are carnivores, so their diet should include frozen food such as bloodworms and brine shrimp, though there are some dry foods available that are made to mimic live food, and they are known to eat that as well. They will also feast upon invertebrates such as shrimps and snails, so if you have a pest snail problem they will gladly help that issue.Pea Puffers grow to a maximum size of 1 .5 inches so they can go into a 5g tank but a 10g tank is optimal for their health and happiness. They prefer their water temperatures to be between 72-82oF, pH between 7.0-8.0.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The aptly named Peacock wrasse is a striking beauty decorated with shining turquoise spots, earning it the name Argus wrasse after the Greek monster Argus, said to possess 100 eyes. An interlocking chain link pattern in stunning magenta covers its entire body and fins. On its face the magenta is arranged as squiggles, with a distinct green trapezoid shape under its eye. On its tail its spots become smaller towards the fin's end, and the top and bottom tips are dark. Juveniles and females are more subtly colored rusty magenta with an eyespot on the dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Pearl Toby puffer is a commonly available fish with delightful baby blue polka dots coating its dark caramel colored body. A dark eyespot at the base of its dorsal fin is also ringed in blue. Its fins are transparent, except for its caudal fin which may be the same color as its body to fiery orange. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Notable for its extreme diversity of growth forms, this coral may form plates, leaves, valleys, ridges or spires covered in puffy tissue creating a translucent effect. It grows slowly, but rewards with ever more ornate and intricate shapes as it matures.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of small phytoplankton, zooplankton and small meaty items best offered in the evening. Pectinia is related to the Chalice corals Echinophyllia, Mycedium and Oxypora, however it tends to grow much more exotic structures as opposed to a simple bowl-shape. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has a thin skeleton prone to physical injury leading to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is however known to be virtually pest free. It may extend sweeper tentacles to feed at night, however it is prone to being injured by other corals.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
Notable for its extreme diversity of growth forms, this coral may form plates, leaves, valleys, ridges or spires covered in puffy tissue creating a translucent effect. It grows slowly, but rewards with ever more ornate and intricate shapes as it matures.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of small phytoplankton, zooplankton and small meaty items best offered in the evening. Pectinia is related to the Chalice corals Echinophyllia, Mycedium and Oxypora, however it tends to grow much more exotic structures as opposed to a simple bowl-shape. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has a thin skeleton prone to physical injury leading to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is however known to be virtually pest free. It may extend sweeper tentacles to feed at night, however it is prone to being injured by other corals.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
Notable for its extreme diversity of growth forms, this coral may form plates, leaves, valleys, ridges or spires covered in puffy tissue creating a translucent effect. It grows slowly, but rewards with ever more ornate and intricate shapes as it matures.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of small phytoplankton, zooplankton and small meaty items best offered in the evening. Pectinia is related to the Chalice corals Echinophyllia, Mycedium and Oxypora, however it tends to grow much more exotic structures as opposed to a simple bowl-shape. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has a thin skeleton prone to physical injury leading to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is however known to be virtually pest free. It may extend sweeper tentacles to feed at night, however it is prone to being injured by other corals.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
Penguin Tetra Thayeria boehlkei Tetras are one of the best go-to fish for filling up some empty space in your aquarium. They are lively schooling fish that are quite active throughout the tank, creating a dazzling show of the metallic and bright colors they come in. Tetras are peaceful and do best with other peaceful community fish, preferring to be in groups of at least 6 to feel secure. Tetras max out at 2 inches, so they are best rated for tanks 10 gallons and upwards for a school of at least 6. Lots of natural foliage is recommended for the Tetra to weave through to create shady spots to rest and hide in. Tetras will accept many forms of food, such as high-quality pellet and flake foods, thawed brine shrimp, and freeze-dried shrimp. Penguin Tetra Specifics Penguin Tetra grow to a size of 2.5", and when kept in a school, should be in a tank at least 20g. Their water temperature should be between 72-82oF and their pH between 6.0- 8.0.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.An extremely rare and exquisite fish, the Peppermint, or Masudai hogfish, makes a spectacular showpiece animal. It has thick stripes running from its nose to its tail in alternating intense scarlet red and lemon yellow with a snowy white belly. Its tail is solid deep scarlet. A single black eyespot is located on its gill cover. With its active personality and dramatic coloration this fish is an exceptional treasure. Its solid colored tail differentiates it from the similar Crescent hogfish. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates. It is less likely than other hogfish to bother invertebrates, and even large shrimp may be safe if they are added before the hogfish. It grows up to 4.5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.Ours is the true Caribbean Peppermint from our trusted Florida supplier: guaranteed to eat Aiptasia anemones. The trick is to limit the amount of fish food available to the shrimp, who may not hunt anemones on a full stomach. The shrimp also relies on its own kind for assistance in killing the stinging anemones. It may pester other, larger anemones, and occasionally corals such as zoanthids, but typically ignores all other aquarium inhabitants. It likes to rest upside down in caves in groups, often waving its body back and forth. It is not to be confused for the superficially similar Camel shrimp. The Peppermint shrimp grows up to 1.5 inches.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The False Percula clownfish maintains its resemblance to its wild relatives- blazing orange while it's stripes may be broken or even missing.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines. This Misbar variety may have unique broken or teardrop shaped stripes.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.The True Percula clownfish maintains its resemblance to its wild relatives- blazing orange with three full white stripes.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The False Percula clownfish maintains its resemblance to its wild relatives- blazing orange with three full white stripes
The False Personifer angel is an uncommon and highly sought after fish. Its body is a pure deep black, with bright yellow accents on the chest, pectoral and pelvic fins. Its forehead is yellow, changing to white as it extends down to encircle the face, which is blueish to purple. Its tail is pure, lemony yellow. Mature males have many polka dots on their faces, whereas females do not.The False Personifer angel can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The True Personifer angel is a very rare and highly sought after fish. Its body is a pure deep black, with bright yellow accents on the chest, pectoral and pelvic fins. Its forehead is yellow, changing to white as it extends down to encircle the face, which is blueish to purple. Its tail is pure, lemony yellow with a black stripe through it, which distinguishes it from the false Personifer angel. Mature males have many polkadots on their faces, whereas females do not.The Personifer angel can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
An eerie mix of inky black under serrated, ghostly white stripes sets this clownfish apart from all others. It is a result of tireless breeding efforts, combining the Premium Snowflake, Black Ice and Black Ocellaris into something totally out of this world. Young fish may be mocha colored, but darken upon maturity. Premium fish have much more white which connects two stripes on at least one side.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
An eerie mix of inky black under serrated, ghostly white stripes sets this clownfish apart from all others. It is a result of tireless breeding efforts, combining the Premium Snowflake, Black Ice and Black Ocellaris into something totally out of this world. Young fish may be mocha colored, but darken upon maturity.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Each Picasso clownfish looks like it was designed by a great artist. It is bright orange with undulating stripes often in a puzzle-piece shape. It has been selectively bred so its stripes take on this interesting appearance, with each fish being unique. In the highest grade specimens the stripes may connect together.
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Ultra Colored Mushroom may be smooth or bumpy, and may come in any bright color of the rainbow. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Few fish can compare to the beauty of the rare Pictillis anthias. Both sexes are awash in color; males have a magenta back, orange face and ruby red tail. The middle of the caudal fin is pale yellow and the tips are white, making it look like a flag. Females are an intense pink with lemon yellow along the back and caudal fin. They are best kept singly, as a pair or small harem. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 125 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Few fish can compare to the beauty of the rare Pictillis anthias. Both sexes are awash in color; males have a magenta back, orange face and ruby red tail. The middle of the caudal fin is pale yellow and the tips are white, making it look like a flag. Females are an intense pink with lemon yellow along the back and caudal fin. They are best kept singly, as a pair or small harem. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 125 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Picture wrasse is also known as the Clouded wrasse, and true to its name it is as beautiful as a sky full of moody clouds lit by a colorful sunset. Against a backdrop of stunning turquoise are splotches of contrasting rusty red arranged as two broken stripes along its body. On its face the markings are short lines of brighter orange, and it has a distinctive pink blotch on its belly. Males and females are identical; females may have a larger pink blotch. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Pigeon Snakeskin Discus Symphysodon sp Discus are regarded as one of the most well-known fish to the freshwater hobby, popularized by their striking colors and patterns. They are a peaceful fish that only become territorial while they are breeding. They grow to roughly 8" and would prefer a taller rather than wider tank of at least 60 gallons. They like their water between 79-86oF, a pH between 6,1-7.5.They are primarily carnivores, so providing them with high quality flake food, frozen shrimp, and Discus pellet food will benefit them. Because of their eating habits their water must be cleaned more often than other freshwater species, as they are more likely to do unwell in poor water conditions. Pigeon Snake Discus are adorned with a brilliant red patterning of spots and broken lines across a white body and lacks the darker vertical stress bars often seen in many types of Discus.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
