This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.This coral has clusters of long tentacles, each one branched with rounded tips in a contrasting hue, resembling a mass of amphibian eggs. The tips may also bring to mind the suction cups along an octopus’s arms. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Low - Medium
Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.This coral has clusters of long tentacles, each one branched with rounded tips in a contrasting hue, resembling a mass of amphibian eggs. The tips may also bring to mind the suction cups along an octopus’s arms. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Low - Medium
Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.This coral has clusters of long tentacles, each one branched with rounded tips in a contrasting hue, resembling a mass of amphibian eggs. The tips may also bring to mind the suction cups along an octopus’s arms. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Low - Medium
Temperament: Aggressive
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.Similar to the Yellow Foxface, the One Spot Foxface is a terrific fish for nearly any aquarium. It is bright sunny yellow all over, except for its snowy white face with a black mask like a raccoon, and black chest. A dark spot on its rear body may be clearly defined or paler with fuzzy edges. Because of their similar coloration, if this fish is to be kept with a yellow tang we recommend the foxface be added first, or it may be pestered by the tang. The One Spot Foxface grows to 7 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.The Onyx clownfish takes the True Percula clownfish to a whole new level. It has been selectively bred so the black outlining its stripes has expanded to fill in the spaces between, leaving blazing orange on its face and fins.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Shining gold blankets the back of this incredible fish, making it one of the brightest of all the fairy wrasses. Only very young fish lack this distinctive trait. Males and females are very similar, with males sporting the brightest colors and dark red crown. Terminal males have a rhomboid shaped caudal fin. It is usually very peaceful with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended.Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.With its deep orange to red coloration, the Ball sponge makes a dramatic addition to a mature reef. It grows as a compact cluster with many pores of various sizes across its surface. This sponge lives unattached to rock or substrate and may drift in the water flow. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended.Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.The Bee sponge is a cheery orange color with an intricate, spiky texture, resembling a honeycomb. It is easy to image its bright chambers dripping with honey. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended. Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.This sponge grows like a tall dessert succulent, or a mighty tree with many branches. It has a deep orange to red coloration which adds to its impressive appearance. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
Hermit crabs need to live inside of a snail shell in order to keep their soft bodies safe. Even with many shells available hermit crabs will occasionally kill snails in order to take their shell. Please ask our staff and we will be happy to supply you with some empty shells.The Orange Claw hermit is a rusty color with light colored 'socks' on the end of its claws. It is a small to medium sized crab that eats a wide variety of algae including some hair algae. It is considered reef safe, however it is an opportunistic omnivore and will take food where it can find it. It will also eat detritus, algae, fish food, and anything else edible.
False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
One of the best sand-sifting snails, the Orange Lip, or Strawberry conch stays small and eats lots of algae. It moves with a hopping motion and may hide under the substrate. It is regularly imported from the Philippines. It is usually available as a 1 inch snail which may grow up to 3 inches long
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended. Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.Intense orange coloration and appealing flattened fan shape makes this animal unmistakable. It adds a dramatic splash of color to a mature reef aquarium. In nature it grows sideways extending from vertical cliffs, and this placement should be replicated in the home aquarium. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
A dazzling combination of high contrast markings and bright colors make the Orange Pearlscale a flashy fish indeed. Each of the scales on its flanks are edged in inky black, and a crescent of intense tangerine orange paints its rear body, with another brushstroke in the same hue on its tail. A dark stripe runs through its eye and a small spot is on its forehead. The very tips of its dorsal fin are delicate lemon yellow. It grows up to 5.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.This species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. It will also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, especially soft corals and LPS, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Orange Peel angel is a rare color morph of the lemon peel angel. It is overall an orangeish-yellow color, with baby-blue highlights on its eyes and gill covers. Males and females are visually identical.The Orange Peel angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Orange Shoulder tang is also called the orange-epaulette surgeonfish because of the electric orange oval-shaped marking on its cheek. This dramatic marking is circled by deep blue, and may be so large as to extend nearly halfway down its body. It makes a stunning contrast against its creamy grey body, which immediately changes to dark grey on its lower third, as though the fish were dipped in paint. It has a bright orange stripe just under its dorsal fin, and its scalpel is also colored orange. Its caudal fin is strongly lyre shaped when mature. As a juvenile it is a solid bright yellow, and may be distinguished from the similar chocolate tang because of its slightly elongated body, whereas the chocolate tang is more round. It typically begins to transition to adult colors at around 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical.The Orange Shoulder tang can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 225 gallons or larger. It can be feisty and should be kept with other fish with similar personalities. Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.Skunk complex clownfish are typically less aggressive than most other clownfish and tend to stay close to their anemone. The different types of Skunk complex clownfish include Pink and Orange among others. Species from other complexes in their territory usually causes fighting. Most species grow up to 4 inches however Orange skunk may grow to 5 inches. They need an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best host is a carpet anemone (Stichodactyla sp.) or Sebae (Heteractis crispa), however Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis) and Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) are also popular choices.The adorable Orange Skunk clown has an apricot colored body and a single white stripe running from its nose, along its back to its tail.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.This colorful fish is also known as the Yellow Blotch rabbitfish because of the bright yellow marking just before its tail, reminiscent of a gold coin. Its body is the color of brushed steel and may shimmer blue on its back. Deep orange spots cover this fish from its face to the tip of its tail. As a juvenile the spots are large, becoming smaller and more numerous as it grows. Its lips and the tips of its fins are bright yellow. This species does not do well with other rabbitfish, even its own kind, in all but the largest of aquariums. The Orange Spot foxface grows to 16 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The Orange Spot shrimp goby is aptly named for the many bright tangerine spots covering its entire body, face and fins. Its white body may show a few darker bands, and it has distinctive dark pelvic fins. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Orange Spot sleeper goby is a popular choice for aquarists who need a hard working fish to keep their sand clean and prefer a fish less prone to picking up sand and carrying it up into the water column. Its long body is as white as dolomite; it has blue speckles on its cheeks and yellow eyes. Its namesake feature are the bright orange spots running along its body. It is commonly referred to as the diamond goby. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.Elegant lines combined with bright orange color against stark white mark this unique and gorgeous fish. By breeding the Black Storm with the classic orange ocellaris for many generations this new variety was created. It is notable for its white pattern which no longer resembles stripes; instead, a bold white face mask blends into a unique combination of white and orange which often defies description.
The Orange Stripe goby is a beautiful with a pearly white body decorated with two bright orange stripes running the length of its body and many lighter orange vertical stripes. These vertical stripes intersecting with the horizontals give it another common name, the crosshatch or orange marked goby. It also has an attractive eyespot on its tail. Males and females are visually identical. The Orange Stripe goby does not grow quite as large as other sand sifting gobies, growing to approximately 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Longfin batfish is a large and impressive fish with huge fins. As a juvenile the fins are much larger than its body and it is taller than it is long. It has a light cream colored body with dark vertical bands in a deep chocolate. These bands extend through the eye, shoulder and rear body. As it matures it gradually grows into its fins and as an adult the fins are approximately the same size as its body. Its body changes from cream to silver and the band through its rear body disappears, but the eye and shoulder bands remain. The pelvic fins become yellow and its face becomes large and round. It can be differentiated from the similar Orbiculate batfish by having a dark blotch under its pectoral fins. Males and females are visually identical.Batfish are large and elegant fish with very high fins, therefore they should only be housed in large, deep aquaria to give them enough room to swim comfortably. The Longfin batfish can grow to be up to 22 inches long and we recommend an aquarium of at least 220 gallons and 30 inches deep. As a small young fish it is prone to being nipped on by other fish, however as an adult it may chase and nip at other fish, especially those with a similar shape. This behaviour does not typically lead to violence and overall it is considered fairly peaceful. They are very personable and can learn to feed from their owner’s fingers.Batfish are omnivores which may nip on many types of corals, anemones, feather dusters and sponges. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that the batfish's fins don't touch the rocks or bottom of the aquarium. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.
The Orbiculate Cardinal fish makes a great addition to almost any aquarium. It has a yellowish body and wears a dark belt around its waist; its tail end is covered in dark polka dots. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4 inches.The Orbiculate Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It is extremely resilient and is a great fish for a new aquarium. It schools eagerly with it's own species and often with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food.It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish or pair, and 50 gallons or larger for a school.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The Orchid dottyback is a wonderful fish colored all over intense magenta. Its sapphire blue eyes have a black stripe running through them, which differentiates it from the similar Strawberry pseudochromis. The Orchid is well known for having a much more peaceful temperament compared to most other dottybacks. In the wild it is isolated in the Red Sea, however all of our Orchid dottybacks are tank bred. It may be kept in groups as long as there are plenty of hiding places and all individuals are added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium. Males and females are identical. It grows to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Sweetlips are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They are friendly with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, snails, serpent stars, and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be added at the same time. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Sweetlips feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least twice a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Harlequin sweetlips is often available as a cute juvenile which will grow into a large beast. Young fish are a dark coffee color with large white polka dots edged in fiery orange. When mature they are snow white with black stripes running the length of their bodies. Bright lemon yellow highlights their nose and all fins, which also develop black freckles. Males and females are identical. The Oriental Sweetlips grows up to 34 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Ornate Leopard wrasse is a delightful fish with incredible colors. Its body is a deep maroon, and each scale is dotted with a large turquoise spot. Its head is brighter orange with broad squiggles instead of spots. Females have a dark spot near the base of the pectoral fin called the humeral spot. Because of its similarity to the Blue and Red Leopard wrasses, the Ornate Leopard is sometimes referred to as the False Leopard. It is usually imported from the Indian Ocean. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Christmas wrasse is a stunning fish with an overall scarlet color. Each scale is decorated with a small turquoise spot, like a shining jewel. A thick turquoise stripe runs under its eye and tiny speckles cover its fins. Females and juveniles have one to two eyespots on the dorsal fin. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Many color combinations are possible, with Australian corals being more rare and impressive than those from other locations. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
This interesting coral most often takes on a plating shape, able to encrust onto and extend outward from the rockwork. Occasionally it may develop whirls, branches or crinkled shapes. Ultra Australian specimens are always vividly colored and are more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Echinophyllia corals are best known for their flashy, saturated colors, which may be nearly any color of the rainbow; many colonies show contrasting colors. It is similar to Mycedium and Oxypora, but tends to puff up its tissue more than its relatives, especially around the edges of the colony where it may extend up to an inch from the skeleton. Its large, raised corallites often point in many different angles. It is one of the hardiest and most adaptable of the Chalice corals. Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered small meaty items such as mysis and enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, and pellets. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. It is tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and not prone to pests.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
This interesting coral most often takes on a plating shape, able to encrust onto and extend outward from the rockwork. Occasionally it may develop whirls, branches or crinkled shapes. Ultra Australian specimens are always vividly colored and are more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Echinophyllia corals are best known for their flashy, saturated colors, which may be nearly any color of the rainbow; many colonies show contrasting colors. It is similar to Mycedium and Oxypora, but tends to puff up its tissue more than its relatives, especially around the edges of the colony where it may extend up to an inch from the skeleton. Its large, raised corallites often point in many different angles. It is one of the hardiest and most adaptable of the Chalice corals. Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered small meaty items such as mysis and enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, and pellets. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. It is tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and not prone to pests.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Gifted with a rainbow of colors and patterns over its scales, and a very peaceful demeanour, the Pajama cardinal fish is a wonderful addition to nearly any aquarium. Its eye is an intense scarlet red, matching the many polka-dots on its body. Its front half is bright yellow, and it has a dark belt across its middle. It always holds its fins erect which gives it a unique shape. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches.The Pajama Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It is happiest in groups of at least three individuals; it may school with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food.The Pajama cardinal has been known to spawn even in community aquariums. After breeding, the male will hold the eggs in his mouth to protect them. It may take several weeks for the eggs to hatch, during which time the male does not feed. It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a single fish and 30 gallons or larger for a school.
Gifted with a rainbow of colors and patterns over its scales, and a very peaceful demeanour, the Pajama cardinal fish is a wonderful addition to nearly any aquarium. Its eye is an intense scarlet red, matching the many polka-dots on its body. Its front half is bright yellow, and it has a dark belt across its middle. It always holds its fins erect which gives it a unique shape. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches.The Pajama Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It is happiest in groups of at least three individuals; it may school with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food.The Pajama cardinal has been known to spawn even in community aquariums. After breeding, the male will hold the eggs in his mouth to protect them. It may take several weeks for the eggs to hatch, during which time the male does not feed. It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a single fish and 30 gallons or larger for a school.
The glorious Pakistan, or Red Tail butterfly, appears to have been saturated in dark black ink. Towards its dorsal fin this dissipates into an intensely rich chocolate hue, and a contrasting dark stripe runs along the edges of its fins. Its caudal fin is bright scarlet red, and several stark white stripes run over its face. It grows up to 6.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons. It is usually imported from the Indian Ocean.This species is normally quite peaceful and, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be quite aggressive towards its own species; if several are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, especially hard corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species varies in its willingness to eat prepared foods, and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.
Panda Corydora Corydoras panda Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Panda Cory Cat Specifics Panda Corydoras are peaceful and only grow to 2.5 inches. They prefer a temperature between 72-79oF, a pH of 5.8-7.0, and a dKH of 2-12.
The Panda Clown goby is an adorable micro-sized fish perfect for small aquariums. Its large rounded fins are deep velvety black, and its body a contrasting yellow. Often times its cheeks have a rosy hue. We typically receive this fish in a very small size, so appropriately sized food should be available. Baby brine shrimp and Calanus are good first choices. The panda goby will feel safe if provided with plenty of hiding places or Pocillopora coral to hide in. It is also known as the black fin coral goby. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1 inche.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Like a loyal Dalmatian, the Panther grouper will become your favorite pet with spots. As a juvenile it is snowy white with large jet black polka-dots covering its whole body. When mature it becomes a more creamy grey and its black spots become smaller and more numerous. A few larger blotches of darker grey appear as well. Large individuals have a small head and a strongly arched nape, and are also known as the Humpback grouper. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 27 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 225 gallons.
Pavona is known by many names including Cactus and Potato Chip coral. It may grow into any of a wide variety of delightful shapes including thin crinkled leaves, plates, waves, branches and antler-like forms, always with polyps on both sides.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also utilize dissolved nutrients in the water but has a weak feeding ability, possibly capturing particles with its mucus.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as it may grow sweeper tentacles from any location which can extend several inches.Pavona coral may be appreciated up close as it grows intricate patterns on its surface, dotted with very small, fine tentacles. It is very adaptable and quite disease resistant, making it a great choice for beginners. Color is typically tan with mint green polyps.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals. Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Slow
Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Pea Puffer (Dwarf Puffer) Carinotetraodon travancoricus Pea Puffers, also known as bumble puffers, dwarf puffers, and pygmy puffers, are the smallest pufferfish in the world and are readily available in the aquarium trade. Their temperament, given that they can be territorial, mostly depends on how well set up their home aquarium is. If given proper space, foliage to swim around in, and areas to claim as their own territory, they can be great tank mates. If they are not provided well enough aggression may spark and cause them to act out toward each other and other tank mates. You can keep one in a well-made tank of 5g, but if adding more puffers or other smaller peaceful fish, they must be put into a larger set up. A general rule is to add 3 gallons per extra added puffer, making a 10g tank for example, a good home for three puffers if given the right environment. Males have a deeper coloration with a stripe or dot on their belly, and females will have a more yellow colored body and rounder in shape. Pea Puffers are carnivores, so their diet should include frozen food such as bloodworms and brine shrimp, though there are some dry foods available that are made to mimic live food, and they are known to eat that as well. They will also feast upon invertebrates such as shrimps and snails, so if you have a pest snail problem they will gladly help that issue.Pea Puffers grow to a maximum size of 1 .5 inches so they can go into a 5g tank but a 10g tank is optimal for their health and happiness. They prefer their water temperatures to be between 72-82oF, pH between 7.0-8.0, and dKH between 5-15.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The aptly named Peacock wrasse is a striking beauty decorated with shining turquoise spots, earning it the name Argus wrasse after the Greek monster Argus, said to possess 100 eyes. An interlocking chain link pattern in stunning magenta covers its entire body and fins. On its face the magenta is arranged as squiggles, with a distinct green trapezoid shape under its eye. On its tail its spots become smaller towards the fin's end, and the top and bottom tips are dark. Juveniles and females are more subtly colored rusty magenta with an eyespot on the dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Pearl Toby puffer is a commonly available fish with delightful baby blue polka dots coating its dark caramel colored body. A dark eyespot at the base of its dorsal fin is also ringed in blue. Its fins are transparent, except for its caudal fin which may be the same color as its body to fiery orange. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Notable for its extreme diversity of growth forms, this coral may form plates, leaves, valleys, ridges or spires covered in puffy tissue creating a translucent effect. It grows slowly, but rewards with ever more ornate and intricate shapes as it matures.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of small phytoplankton, zooplankton and small meaty items best offered in the evening. Pectinia is related to the Chalice corals Echinophyllia, Mycedium and Oxypora, however it tends to grow much more exotic structures as opposed to a simple bowl-shape. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has a thin skeleton prone to physical injury leading to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is however known to be virtually pest free. It may extend sweeper tentacles to feed at night, however it is prone to being injured by other corals.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
Notable for its extreme diversity of growth forms, this coral may form plates, leaves, valleys, ridges or spires covered in puffy tissue creating a translucent effect. It grows slowly, but rewards with ever more ornate and intricate shapes as it matures.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of small phytoplankton, zooplankton and small meaty items best offered in the evening. Pectinia is related to the Chalice corals Echinophyllia, Mycedium and Oxypora, however it tends to grow much more exotic structures as opposed to a simple bowl-shape. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has a thin skeleton prone to physical injury leading to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is however known to be virtually pest free. It may extend sweeper tentacles to feed at night, however it is prone to being injured by other corals.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
Notable for its extreme diversity of growth forms, this coral may form plates, leaves, valleys, ridges or spires covered in puffy tissue creating a translucent effect. It grows slowly, but rewards with ever more ornate and intricate shapes as it matures.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of small phytoplankton, zooplankton and small meaty items best offered in the evening. Pectinia is related to the Chalice corals Echinophyllia, Mycedium and Oxypora, however it tends to grow much more exotic structures as opposed to a simple bowl-shape. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has a thin skeleton prone to physical injury leading to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from falls due to incorrect placement. It is however known to be virtually pest free. It may extend sweeper tentacles to feed at night, however it is prone to being injured by other corals.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
