Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.
The Naso tang is a common import from the Philippines and Bali. It has an elongated, tear-drop shaped body which is primarily a soft, mousy grey. As a juvenile it may show small white blotches on its flank. Its face slopes gently towards its snout, giving it the common name smooth head unicorn. Above its eye the skin shines blue, and it has a distinctive mask of yellow over its face which extends down towards its orange lips. It has two scalpels near the tail, colored a bright orange. The lower fins are also orange, and its dorsal fin is dark black which makes a striking contrast against the rest of the fish. Its tail is pointed at the tips, and on a mature male these tips may extend to long streamers. The streamers may begin to grow when the fish is 5-6 inches, until then males and females are visually identical.The Naso tang can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger.Naso tangs tend to grow on the larger side, so they need lots of space to swim. Because of their large size they are quite strong, and may be able to graze some macroalgaes such as sargassum. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
The Hawaii Naso tang is similar to its Philippine counterpart, however its colors are more intense. It has an elongated, tear-drop shaped body which is primarily a soft, mousy grey. As a juvenile it may show small white blotches on its flank. Its face slopes gently towards its snout, giving it the common name smooth head unicorn. Above its eye the skin shines blue, and it has a distinctive mask of yellow over its face which extends down towards its orange lips. It has two scalpels near the tail, colored a bright orange. The lower fins are also orange, and its dorsal fin is dark black which makes a striking contrast against the rest of the fish. Its tail is pointed at the tips, and on a mature male these tips may extend to long streamers. The streamers may begin to grow when the fish is 5-6 inches, until then males and females are visually identical.The Naso tang can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger.Naso tangs tend to grow on the larger side, so they need lots of space to swim. Because of their large size they are quite strong, and may be able to graze some macroalgaes such as sargassum. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
This minute snail hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. Its small size allows it to enter tiny crevices in the live rock. This efficient clean-up critter grows to 1/2 inch and poses no threat to other aquarium inhabitants. It is typically imported from Florida. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
This efficient scavenging snail hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. It grows to 1 inch and poses no threat to other aquarium inhabitants. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Nearly Naked clownfish is bright orange with inky black edging to its fins creating a dramatic and unique appearance. This adorable fish has only a small amount of white, which may be only a single dot on one or both cheeks, or a partial stripe or spots, usually near the face.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami Colisa lalia Dwarf Gouramis are peaceful and shy fish that add a striking display of color into the aquarium. Because of their shyness they are best suited for a well-planted tank that allows them to hide amongst the fauna to de-stress. They do well with smaller peaceful fish, as well as another dwarf gourami. They are one of the species known as "Labyrinth Fish" - meaning they have a special organ called the labyrinth that allows them to breathe in air! Gourami are omnivores, so they should be fed a well rounded diet of meaty foods and quality flakes and pellets. Males will have a pointed dorsal fin while the females are rounded. Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami Specifics The Neon Blue Gourami like their water temperature to be 72-82oF, a pH of 6.0-8.0. They grow to a size of 2", so a minimum tank size of at least 10g is recommended.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The striking Neon dottyback is aptly named for its intense fiery orange colored body, highlighted with electric blue around its face and dorsal side, further enhanced with dark navy. When it swims its long elegant body moves like a ribbon in the wind. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish Melanotaenia praecox Rainbowfish is a broad name given to a few different families of fish. In the aquarium trade, the most well-known being the Melanotaeniidae and the Bedotiidae. The most popular choice for aquariums fall under the family of Melanotaeniidae, known as the Pseudomugilidae genus. This species stays rather small, with the largest max size in a species being roughly 2". They are known as the "Blue Eyes" family because of one thing – their brilliant blue eyes. They are a peaceful family of fish that do their best while living in a group to feel safe and secure. Although they are peaceful, they are more suited to be housed with tank mates that are roughly the same size as them, as they may be more prone to shyness or being out competed for food. Rainbowfish are omnivores and should be fed a classic diet of meaty foods and algae-based foods. Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish Specifics Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish like their water temperature between 74-80oF and their pH between 6.8-7.5. They max out at around 3" and are best suited for aquariums 20g or larger.
The Neon goby has brilliant electric sapphire stripe from its nose to its tail. This creates striking contrast against its black-as-night body and pink chin. Its color scheme makes it easy to spot anywhere in the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and quite active and friendly with other fish. Cleaner gobies are often seen sitting on top of rocks or using their fins to stick onto the aquarium glass. They may be territorial with other cleaner gobies, however they are friendly with all other types of fish. They are reef safe, however many cleaner animals may pick at the spots on Tridacnid clam mantles.Cleaner gobies are known for being easy to keep; they feed eagerly on any type of frozen food such as frozen Mysis shrimp and other high quality meaty items. Marine algae and Spirulina should also be a part of their diet. They typically learn to eat dry food as well; we recommend they be fed more than once a day. Cleaner gobies adapt so well to captivity that they have even been successfully tank bred. When necessary they may change sex to form a pair. We have found however that they may be prone to external parasites such as ICH.Cleaner gobies exhibit helpful maintenance on other fish, removing dead skin and scales and some parasites. Other fish will eagerly open their mouths and gills to allow the cleaner gobies access to their sensitive parts. Often larger fish will change color and lay still so the goby may roam over their bodies and inspect them for blemishes. Most fish appreciate the assistance from these gobies, even larger predators. However, extreme caution should still be used when adding a tiny cleaner goby to an aquarium with large mouthed fish, as sometimes the larger animal will still consume the small goby. We never recommend adding a goby to an aquarium with ambush predators such as anglers/frogfish or leaf fish.
Neon Tetra
Paracheirodon innesi
Tetras are one of the best go-to fish for filling up some empty space in your aquarium. They are lively schooling fish that are quite active throughout the tank, creating a dazzling show of the metallic and bright colors they come in. Tetras are peaceful and do best with other peaceful community fish, preferring to be in groups of at least 6 to feel secure. Tetras max out at 2 inches, so they are best rated for tanks 10 gallons and upwards for a school of at least 6. Lots of natural foliage is recommended for the Tetra to weave through to create shady spots to rest and hide in. Tetras will accept many forms of food, such as high-quality pellet and flake foods, thawed brine shrimp, and freeze-dried shrimp.
Neon Tetra Specifics
The Neon Tetra are a peaceful fish that grow to a size of 2”. They prefer water temperatures between 73-81°F and a pH between 5.5-7.5.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Niger, or Red Tooth triggerfish, is a gorgeous deep navy to violet color all over with a brighter face and neon highlights on its face and outlining its fins. It swims by undulating its large fins in an attractive billowing motion. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 20 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 200 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Nocturnal sleeper goby is a lovely fish with a body as white as dolomite and two prominent stripes running along the length of its body in a deep red to orange color. The stripes are dark on the fish's face and gradually lighten towards its tail. Numerous spots decorate the fish along its back. It is also known as the pajama goby. Males and females are visually identical. The nocturnal goby does not grow quite as large as other sand sifting gobies, growing to approximately 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger. Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.This fish’s juvenile coloration is an appealing yellowish on top with a blue stomach and an eyespot at the back of the dorsal fin. It typically keeps the eyespot even as an adult, and may feed on filamentous algae. It is sometimes called the princess anthias. Grows up to 4 Inches.
The octopus is a spectacular creature which is entertaining, intelligent, and unique. It can recognize and respond to its owner, quickly becoming a real pet. Toys and playthings such as plastic baby and bird toys with movable parts should be frequently rotated to keep the octopus's environment enriched.Octopus are recommended only for very experienced aquarists with a dedicated aquarium. A tightly sealed lid and covers over all intakes are required as the octopus can squeeze through any crevice larger than its beak, which is only a few millimeters across. Dim lighting and at least one good hiding place are necessary. Octopus prefer live prey, and are efficient predators of shrimp, crabs and fish. In time it may learn to accept frozen food such as krill. Freshwater feeder animals such as goldfish should never be used. It should be fed frequently, and requires very clean, well oxygenated water. Temperature should be 72-78F. An efficient protein skimmer is necessary. Octopus are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality. Stressed specimens may release an ink into the water.Most species available come from Florida and the Philippines and may grow approximately 8 inches. We recommend an aquarium no smaller than 50 gallons, preferably larger.
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.This coral has clusters of long tentacles, each one branched with rounded tips in a contrasting hue, resembling a mass of amphibian eggs. The tips may also bring to mind the suction cups along an octopus’s arms. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Low - Medium
Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.This coral has clusters of long tentacles, each one branched with rounded tips in a contrasting hue, resembling a mass of amphibian eggs. The tips may also bring to mind the suction cups along an octopus’s arms. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Low - Medium
Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.This coral has clusters of long tentacles, each one branched with rounded tips in a contrasting hue, resembling a mass of amphibian eggs. The tips may also bring to mind the suction cups along an octopus’s arms. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Low - Medium
Temperament: Aggressive
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.Similar to the Yellow Foxface, the One Spot Foxface is a terrific fish for nearly any aquarium. It is bright sunny yellow all over, except for its snowy white face with a black mask like a raccoon, and black chest. A dark spot on its rear body may be clearly defined or paler with fuzzy edges. Because of their similar coloration, if this fish is to be kept with a yellow tang we recommend the foxface be added first, or it may be pestered by the tang. The One Spot Foxface grows to 7 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.The Onyx clownfish takes the True Percula clownfish to a whole new level. It has been selectively bred so the black outlining its stripes has expanded to fill in the spaces between, leaving blazing orange on its face and fins.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Shining gold blankets the back of this incredible fish, making it one of the brightest of all the fairy wrasses. Only very young fish lack this distinctive trait. Males and females are very similar, with males sporting the brightest colors and dark red crown. Terminal males have a rhomboid shaped caudal fin. It is usually very peaceful with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended.Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.With its deep orange to red coloration, the Ball sponge makes a dramatic addition to a mature reef. It grows as a compact cluster with many pores of various sizes across its surface. This sponge lives unattached to rock or substrate and may drift in the water flow. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended.Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.The Bee sponge is a cheery orange color with an intricate, spiky texture, resembling a honeycomb. It is easy to image its bright chambers dripping with honey. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended. Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.This sponge grows like a tall dessert succulent, or a mighty tree with many branches. It has a deep orange to red coloration which adds to its impressive appearance. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
Hermit crabs need to live inside of a snail shell in order to keep their soft bodies safe. Even with many shells available hermit crabs will occasionally kill snails in order to take their shell. Please ask our staff and we will be happy to supply you with some empty shells.The Orange Claw hermit is a rusty color with light colored 'socks' on the end of its claws. It is a small to medium sized crab that eats a wide variety of algae including some hair algae. It is considered reef safe, however it is an opportunistic omnivore and will take food where it can find it. It will also eat detritus, algae, fish food, and anything else edible.
False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
One of the best sand-sifting snails, the Orange Lip, or Strawberry conch stays small and eats lots of algae. It moves with a hopping motion and may hide under the substrate. It is regularly imported from the Philippines. It is usually available as a 1 inch snail which may grow up to 3 inches long
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This Sponge is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing fine phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Most specimens are collected from the Caribbean. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide the frequent feedings it demands.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, with the sponge’s oscula facing down-wind; improper placement will cause closure of the oscula. Never use wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Lower lighting or shade should be used to discourage algae overgrowth; as well, for some species bright light is actually damaging. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they may contain toxins. The toxin may damage other sessile animals if touched, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended. Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food.Intense orange coloration and appealing flattened fan shape makes this animal unmistakable. It adds a dramatic splash of color to a mature reef aquarium. In nature it grows sideways extending from vertical cliffs, and this placement should be replicated in the home aquarium. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
A dazzling combination of high contrast markings and bright colors make the Orange Pearlscale a flashy fish indeed. Each of the scales on its flanks are edged in inky black, and a crescent of intense tangerine orange paints its rear body, with another brushstroke in the same hue on its tail. A dark stripe runs through its eye and a small spot is on its forehead. The very tips of its dorsal fin are delicate lemon yellow. It grows up to 5.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.This species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. It will also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, especially soft corals and LPS, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Orange Peel angel is a rare color morph of the lemon peel angel. It is overall an orangeish-yellow color, with baby-blue highlights on its eyes and gill covers. Males and females are visually identical.The Orange Peel angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Orange Shoulder tang is also called the orange-epaulette surgeonfish because of the electric orange oval-shaped marking on its cheek. This dramatic marking is circled by deep blue, and may be so large as to extend nearly halfway down its body. It makes a stunning contrast against its creamy grey body, which immediately changes to dark grey on its lower third, as though the fish were dipped in paint. It has a bright orange stripe just under its dorsal fin, and its scalpel is also colored orange. Its caudal fin is strongly lyre shaped when mature. As a juvenile it is a solid bright yellow, and may be distinguished from the similar chocolate tang because of its slightly elongated body, whereas the chocolate tang is more round. It typically begins to transition to adult colors at around 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical.The Orange Shoulder tang can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 225 gallons or larger. It can be feisty and should be kept with other fish with similar personalities. Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.Skunk complex clownfish are typically less aggressive than most other clownfish and tend to stay close to their anemone. The different types of Skunk complex clownfish include Pink and Orange among others. Species from other complexes in their territory usually causes fighting. Most species grow up to 4 inches however Orange skunk may grow to 5 inches. They need an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best host is a carpet anemone (Stichodactyla sp.) or Sebae (Heteractis crispa), however Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis) and Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) are also popular choices.The adorable Orange Skunk clown has an apricot colored body and a single white stripe running from its nose, along its back to its tail.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.This colorful fish is also known as the Yellow Blotch rabbitfish because of the bright yellow marking just before its tail, reminiscent of a gold coin. Its body is the color of brushed steel and may shimmer blue on its back. Deep orange spots cover this fish from its face to the tip of its tail. As a juvenile the spots are large, becoming smaller and more numerous as it grows. Its lips and the tips of its fins are bright yellow. This species does not do well with other rabbitfish, even its own kind, in all but the largest of aquariums. The Orange Spot foxface grows to 16 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The Orange Spot shrimp goby is aptly named for the many bright tangerine spots covering its entire body, face and fins. Its white body may show a few darker bands, and it has distinctive dark pelvic fins. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Orange Spot sleeper goby is a popular choice for aquarists who need a hard working fish to keep their sand clean and prefer a fish less prone to picking up sand and carrying it up into the water column. Its long body is as white as dolomite; it has blue speckles on its cheeks and yellow eyes. Its namesake feature are the bright orange spots running along its body. It is commonly referred to as the diamond goby. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.Elegant lines combined with bright orange color against stark white mark this unique and gorgeous fish. By breeding the Black Storm with the classic orange ocellaris for many generations this new variety was created. It is notable for its white pattern which no longer resembles stripes; instead, a bold white face mask blends into a unique combination of white and orange which often defies description.
The Orange Stripe goby is a beautiful with a pearly white body decorated with two bright orange stripes running the length of its body and many lighter orange vertical stripes. These vertical stripes intersecting with the horizontals give it another common name, the crosshatch or orange marked goby. It also has an attractive eyespot on its tail. Males and females are visually identical. The Orange Stripe goby does not grow quite as large as other sand sifting gobies, growing to approximately 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
