Montipora require stable water quality ideally provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and may cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.They are prone to many pests, most notably nudibranch which are very difficult to eradicate. Gorilla crabs, flat worms and vermetid snails can also damage this coral. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. Those corals with bumpy surfaces require the highest water flow, while smooth corals may tolerate more gentle movement. Montipora are related to Acropora but tend to be much easier to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Montipora do not possess strong defensive filaments and may be stung by neighboring corals.Montipora are popular corals available in many spectacular colors and growth patterns. It often grows into a bush of gnarly branches with fuzzy polyps sprinkled evenly over its surface. Random, turbulent water flow produces the most interesting colonies. It may be emerald to lime to lemon or any shade between.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Intermediate
Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
Montipora require stable water quality ideally provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and may cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.They are prone to many pests, most notably nudibranch which are very difficult to eradicate. Gorilla crabs, flat worms and vermetid snails can also damage this coral. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. Those corals with bumpy surfaces require the highest water flow, while smooth corals may tolerate more gentle movement. Montipora are related to Acropora but tend to be much easier to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Montipora do not possess strong defensive filaments and may be stung by neighboring corals.Montipora are popular corals available in many spectacular colors and growth patterns. The plating Montipora may encrust the rock but also extends out as rounded plates, often whirling or layering in astounding ways which are enhanced as it grows by random, turbulent water flow. It may be grape to azure or any shade between. It is affectionately known as “Monti Cap”, short for capricornis, although many species may also form plating shapes.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Peaceful
Montipora require stable water quality ideally provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and may cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.They are prone to many pests, most notably nudibranch which are very difficult to eradicate. Gorilla crabs, flat worms and vermetid snails can also damage this coral. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. Those corals with bumpy surfaces require the highest water flow, while smooth corals may tolerate more gentle movement. Montipora are related to Acropora but tend to be much easier to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Montipora do not possess strong defensive filaments and may be stung by neighboring corals.Montipora are popular corals available in many spectacular colors and growth patterns. The plating Montipora may encrust the rock but also extends out as rounded plates, often whirling or layering in astounding ways which are enhanced as it grows by random, turbulent water flow. It may be grape to azure or any shade between. It is affectionately known as “Monti Cap”, short for capricornis, although many species may also form plating shapes.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Peaceful
Montipora require stable water quality ideally provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and may cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.They are prone to many pests, most notably nudibranch which are very difficult to eradicate. Gorilla crabs, flat worms and vermetid snails can also damage this coral. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. Those corals with bumpy surfaces require the highest water flow, while smooth corals may tolerate more gentle movement. Montipora are related to Acropora but tend to be much easier to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Montipora do not possess strong defensive filaments and may be stung by neighboring corals.Montipora are popular corals available in many spectacular colors and growth patterns. The encrusting Montipora can cover bare rock in shimmering hues; some varieties have contrasting colored polyps. It may be crimson to tangerine or any shade between. Its miniature polyps make some varieties appear soft, giving it the common name Velvet coral.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals. Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty:Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
Montipora require stable water quality ideally provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and may cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.They are prone to many pests, most notably nudibranch which are very difficult to eradicate. Gorilla crabs, flat worms and vermetid snails can also damage this coral. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. Those corals with bumpy surfaces require the highest water flow, while smooth corals may tolerate more gentle movement. Montipora are related to Acropora but tend to be much easier to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Montipora do not possess strong defensive filaments and may be stung by neighboring corals.Montipora are popular corals available in many spectacular colors and growth patterns. The encrusting Montipora can cover bare rock in shimmering hues; some varieties have contrasting colored polyps. It may be crimson to tangerine or any shade between. Its miniature polyps make some varieties appear soft, giving it the common name Velvet coral.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals. Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty:Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
Montipora require stable water quality ideally provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and may cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.They are prone to many pests, most notably nudibranch which are very difficult to eradicate. Gorilla crabs, flat worms and vermetid snails can also damage this coral. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. Those corals with bumpy surfaces require the highest water flow, while smooth corals may tolerate more gentle movement. Montipora are related to Acropora but tend to be much easier to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Montipora do not possess strong defensive filaments and may be stung by neighboring corals.Montipora are popular corals available in many spectacular colors and growth patterns. The encrusting Montipora can cover bare rock in shimmering hues; some varieties have contrasting colored polyps. It may be crimson to tangerine or any shade between. Its miniature polyps make some varieties appear soft, giving it the common name Velvet coral.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals. Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty:Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
Montipora require stable water quality ideally provided in a well-established aquarium over 6 months old. High levels of nitrate and phosphate are not tolerated and may cause browning; although low, stable levels are necessary for best growth and color. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.They are prone to many pests, most notably nudibranch which are very difficult to eradicate. Gorilla crabs, flat worms and vermetid snails can also damage this coral. All colonies should be dipped prior to adding to a display aquarium. Quarantine and removal of any substrate are also beneficial practices. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Tetralia and Trapezia sp. crabs.Newly acquired specimens should be acclimated to intense light levels slowly to avoid bleaching. Lower lighting may be tolerated but tends to cause browning. Those corals with bumpy surfaces require the highest water flow, while smooth corals may tolerate more gentle movement. Montipora are related to Acropora but tend to be much easier to keep.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as Montipora do not possess strong defensive filaments and may be stung by neighboring corals.Montipora are popular corals available in many spectacular colors and growth patterns. The encrusting Montipora can cover bare rock in shimmering hues; some varieties have contrasting colored polyps. It may be crimson to tangerine or any shade between. Its miniature polyps make some varieties appear soft, giving it the common name Velvet coral.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals. Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty:Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Many color combinations are possible, with Australian corals being more rare and impressive than those from other locations. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Many color combinations are possible, with Australian corals being more rare and impressive than those from other locations. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Many color combinations are possible, with Australian corals being more rare and impressive than those from other locations. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Moon corals resemble an otherworldly landscape which has been bombarded with meteorites. Many color combinations are possible, with Australian corals being more rare and impressive than those from other locations. It may one of two very similar corals: Favia, which has separate corallites, and Favites, in which the corallites share their walls. Both have identical care needs and make terrific additions to almost any reef.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Aggressive
The Moorish Idol is an elegant fish with high contrast patterns and an extremely long, trailing dorsal fin. It has jet black stripes over its snowy white body, and a bright yellow band over its long snout and a larger lemon yellow area on its flank. Males and females are identical. The Moorish Idol can grow to be up to 7 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons.The Moorish Idol resembles a bannerfish or butterflyfish but is actually more closely related to tangs. It is peaceful with all other fish, and may school with its own kind, however its trailing dorsal fin may be a target for fin nipping fish. It superficially resembles the Black Heniochus, but can be differentiated by the Moorish Idol's longer snout and black tail.Moorish Idol may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, algae and other sessile invertebrates; they do not typically bother other invertebrates such as crustaceans unless they are very small. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It is common for Moorish Idol to be very finicky feeders, and because of this we recommend them only for very experienced aquarists. They should be given a highly varied diet fed several times a day. Marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, enriched brine shrimp, and other high quality meaty items. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may entice a feeding response.
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.This striking coral is made up of large corallites with high ridges between each. Often there is one large central star-shaped corallite with smaller ones around it. Many color combinations are possible, with Australian corals being more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.Generally staying smaller than it’s related leopard wrasses this wrasse grows to about 4 inches and should not be housed in a system smaller than 50 gallons.
The Multibarred angel is a stunning and uncommon fish. It is overall pearly white with black zebra stripes over its entire body, and yellow highlights on its lower fins and lips. Males and females are visually identical.The Multibarred angel can grow to be up to 4.5 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. The Multibarred angel can be a finicky eater, and it should be fed a varied diet of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Multicolor angel is aptly named; its body is a pure white canvas covered in splotches of yellow on its face, breast and tail, and blue over its eyes and rear fins. Males and females are visually identical.The Multicolor angel can grow to be up to 3.5 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Mural sleeper goby is an uncommon and hardworking fish that will busily keep its aquarium's sand bed looking clean and tidy. It has a creamy colored body with several dusty pink colored stripes running from its nose to its tail, and several thin bands along its sides. A contrasting dark spot is present at the base of its first dorsal fin and its lips are yellow. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Mustard tang is a rare import with a very unique look. Its round body is the color of brushed silver with thick stripes extending vertically down its body which are a darker, dusty grey to dark charcoal. Overlaying its posterior half are bright white polka-dots, making a bold contrast over its stripes. Its pelvic fins and the base of its tail are a sunny yellow, the end of the tail being dark grey to black. Males and females are visually identical.The Mustard tang can grow to be approximately 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons or larger.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Mystery Snail - Black Pomacea sp. Mystery snails are one of the many popular snails in the freshwater hobby. They are favored for their shells, which range between a plethora of different colours and patterns. Mystery snails have a long siphon that they use to extend out into the open air so they can breathe – and often, the siphons are longer than the snail themselves! Since they require open air to breathe, it is recommended to have a few inches of space available above the waterline so they may go up when needed. Mystery snails are more active at night where they scour the bottom substrate for food. They will eat a variety of foods, such as algae, plant matter, vegetables, flake food, and frozen food. They like their water temperature to be between 68-84°F, a pH between 7.8-8.4, and Dkh between 12-18.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Lined wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are easy to feed and usually learn to take dry foods, as well as have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, and worms. They may also eat several pests of corals and clams including flatworms, bristleworms and pyramid snails. They do not bother corals or anemones.At night time lined wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.A rare treasure from Hawaii, the Mystery wrasse is a spectacularly colored fish. Overall it is a deep coral pink with fine rose colored bars. Bright yellow stripes highlight its face, and a single purple stripe under its eye makes it appear to always be smiling. Its rear fins are violet, with a beautiful dark eyespot at the base of its tail surrounded by yellow. Its fins are covered in tiny iridescent speckles like jewels. Males and females are identical. They may bully other fish, especially passive species or those with a similar shape; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. It is also called the 5 line wrasse. It grows up to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The Naked clownfish is bright orange with inky black edging to its fins creating a dramatic and unique appearance. It has been selectively bred so its stripes are absent, or sometimes as only a single dot on one or both cheeks.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.
The Naso tang is a common import from the Philippines and Bali. It has an elongated, tear-drop shaped body which is primarily a soft, mousy grey. As a juvenile it may show small white blotches on its flank. Its face slopes gently towards its snout, giving it the common name smooth head unicorn. Above its eye the skin shines blue, and it has a distinctive mask of yellow over its face which extends down towards its orange lips. It has two scalpels near the tail, colored a bright orange. The lower fins are also orange, and its dorsal fin is dark black which makes a striking contrast against the rest of the fish. Its tail is pointed at the tips, and on a mature male these tips may extend to long streamers. The streamers may begin to grow when the fish is 5-6 inches, until then males and females are visually identical.The Naso tang can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger.Naso tangs tend to grow on the larger side, so they need lots of space to swim. Because of their large size they are quite strong, and may be able to graze some macroalgaes such as sargassum. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
The Hawaii Naso tang is similar to its Philippine counterpart, however its colors are more intense. It has an elongated, tear-drop shaped body which is primarily a soft, mousy grey. As a juvenile it may show small white blotches on its flank. Its face slopes gently towards its snout, giving it the common name smooth head unicorn. Above its eye the skin shines blue, and it has a distinctive mask of yellow over its face which extends down towards its orange lips. It has two scalpels near the tail, colored a bright orange. The lower fins are also orange, and its dorsal fin is dark black which makes a striking contrast against the rest of the fish. Its tail is pointed at the tips, and on a mature male these tips may extend to long streamers. The streamers may begin to grow when the fish is 5-6 inches, until then males and females are visually identical.The Naso tang can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger.Naso tangs tend to grow on the larger side, so they need lots of space to swim. Because of their large size they are quite strong, and may be able to graze some macroalgaes such as sargassum. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
This minute snail hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. Its small size allows it to enter tiny crevices in the live rock. This efficient clean-up critter grows to 1/2 inch and poses no threat to other aquarium inhabitants. It is typically imported from Florida. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
This efficient scavenging snail hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. It grows to 1 inch and poses no threat to other aquarium inhabitants. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Nearly Naked clownfish is bright orange with inky black edging to its fins creating a dramatic and unique appearance. This adorable fish has only a small amount of white, which may be only a single dot on one or both cheeks, or a partial stripe or spots, usually near the face.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami
Colisa lalia
Dwarf Gouramis are peaceful and shy fish that add a striking display of color into the aquarium. Because of their shyness they are best suited for a well-planted tank that allows them to hide amongst the fauna to de-stress. They do well with smaller peaceful fish, as well as another dwarf gourami. They are one of the species known as "Labyrinth Fish" - meaning they have a special organ called the labyrinth that allows them to breathe in air! Gourami are omnivores, so they should be fed a well rounded diet of meaty foods and quality flakes and pellets. Males will have a pointed dorsal fin while the females are rounded.
Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami Specifics
The Neon Blue Gourami like their water temperature to be 72-82oF, a pH of 6.0-8.0, and a dKH of 4-10. They grow to a size of 2", so a minimum tank size of at least 10g is recommended.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The striking Neon dottyback is aptly named for its intense fiery orange colored body, highlighted with electric blue around its face and dorsal side, further enhanced with dark navy. When it swims its long elegant body moves like a ribbon in the wind. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The Neon goby has brilliant electric sapphire stripe from its nose to its tail. This creates striking contrast against its black-as-night body and pink chin. Its color scheme makes it easy to spot anywhere in the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and quite active and friendly with other fish. Cleaner gobies are often seen sitting on top of rocks or using their fins to stick onto the aquarium glass. They may be territorial with other cleaner gobies, however they are friendly with all other types of fish. They are reef safe, however many cleaner animals may pick at the spots on Tridacnid clam mantles.Cleaner gobies are known for being easy to keep; they feed eagerly on any type of frozen food such as frozen Mysis shrimp and other high quality meaty items. Marine algae and Spirulina should also be a part of their diet. They typically learn to eat dry food as well; we recommend they be fed more than once a day. Cleaner gobies adapt so well to captivity that they have even been successfully tank bred. When necessary they may change sex to form a pair. We have found however that they may be prone to external parasites such as ICH.Cleaner gobies exhibit helpful maintenance on other fish, removing dead skin and scales and some parasites. Other fish will eagerly open their mouths and gills to allow the cleaner gobies access to their sensitive parts. Often larger fish will change color and lay still so the goby may roam over their bodies and inspect them for blemishes. Most fish appreciate the assistance from these gobies, even larger predators. However, extreme caution should still be used when adding a tiny cleaner goby to an aquarium with large mouthed fish, as sometimes the larger animal will still consume the small goby. We never recommend adding a goby to an aquarium with ambush predators such as anglers/frogfish or leaf fish.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Niger, or Red Tooth triggerfish, is a gorgeous deep navy to violet color all over with a brighter face and neon highlights on its face and outlining its fins. It swims by undulating its large fins in an attractive billowing motion. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 20 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 200 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Nocturnal sleeper goby is a lovely fish with a body as white as dolomite and two prominent stripes running along the length of its body in a deep red to orange color. The stripes are dark on the fish's face and gradually lighten towards its tail. Numerous spots decorate the fish along its back. It is also known as the pajama goby. Males and females are visually identical. The nocturnal goby does not grow quite as large as other sand sifting gobies, growing to approximately 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger. Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.This fish�s juvenile coloration is an appealing yellowish on top with a blue stomach and an eyespot at the back of the dorsal fin. It typically keeps the eyespot even as an adult, and may feed on filamentous algae. It is sometimes called the princess anthias. Grows up to 4 Inches.
The octopus is a spectacular creature which is entertaining, intelligent, and unique. It can recognize and respond to its owner, quickly becoming a real pet. Toys and playthings such as plastic baby and bird toys with movable parts should be frequently rotated to keep the octopus's environment enriched.Octopus are recommended only for very experienced aquarists with a dedicated aquarium. A tightly sealed lid and covers over all intakes are required as the octopus can squeeze through any crevice larger than its beak, which is only a few millimeters across. Dim lighting and at least one good hiding place are necessary. Octopus prefer live prey, and are efficient predators of shrimp, crabs and fish. In time it may learn to accept frozen food such as krill. Freshwater feeder animals such as goldfish should never be used. It should be fed frequently, and requires very clean, well oxygenated water. Temperature should be 72-78F. An efficient protein skimmer is necessary. Octopus are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality. Stressed specimens may release an ink into the water.Most species available come from Florida and the Philippines and may grow approximately 8 inches. We recommend an aquarium no smaller than 50 gallons, preferably larger.
