Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A common import from the Philippines and Bali, this is one of the most popular fish to cycle an aquarium because it is extremely hardy and easy to keep. Its whole body is a silver greenish color which shines magnificently under the light. Larger individuals may bully small ones incessantly. Grows up to 3.5 Inches.
The Green Clown goby is a small fish with bright colors and a large head for its size. Its body is mainly a bright emerald green, overlaid with many squiggles in a deep pinkish red. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 5 gallons, or at least 10 gallons for a pair. There are reports of this species being especially helpful in removing nuisance algae from corals. It does not consume the algae, but may tear it away from the coral's skeleton.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Green Corydora Corydoras aeneus Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Green Cory Cat Specifics Green Corydora grow to a size of 3.5" and in a proper school do best in a 20g aquarium. Their water temperature should be between 68-82oF and their pH between 6.0-8.0.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The beautiful Green Pencil wrasse is bright pink with a gold eye when young, but mature males changes to a stunning emerald green when mature. A sapphire blue stripe runs from its nose to its tail; from its gill cover to its tail is also an electric yellow stripe. Along its back is an orange stripe, its belly is a lighter aqua color, and a wide black bar edges its caudal fin. It is also known as the Smalltail and Blue Stripe wrasse. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
The Scat is a beautiful fish with dark spots or stripes over its shimmery body. Its fins are highlighted with red, and it develops a high back when mature. Males and females are visually identical. The Scat grows to 12 inches and once fully grown needs an aquarium at least 150 gallons.In the wild Scats live in light brackish water when juvenile and gradually swim into salt water as they grow. Our Scats are acclimated to full salt water conditions, but they could also be kept in a brackish aquarium. The Scat does best when kept in a school. The group will establish a pecking order, so to reduce aggression we recommend at least four individuals.They are friendly with other fish and are commonly kept in a mixed school with Monos. Both these fish are attractive and very hardy. Most other peaceful fish make good tankmates, except for very tiny fish which may be seen as food. Small invertebrates such as shrimp may be eaten, and it may also nibble coral. We recommend caution when handling the Scat in a net because its spines are mildly venomous and may cause a painful sting.Scats are omnivorous and will eat any type of food including flakes. Plenty of vegetable matter including marine algae and Spirulina helps to keep them healthy, combined with dry food and occasional meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp and enriched brine shrimp. They may also eat vegetables such as spinach or broccoli, and as well as plants and macroalgae. They are known to graze on nuisance algae, including hair algae, in the aquarium.
Green Sea Lettuce creates thin, flat sheets which are translucent and very beautiful. In time it may form a disc shaped holdfast. It can be grown in the aquarium but may be eaten by many species of fish, sea hares, and other invertebrates. It is usually kept in a refugium or algae tumbler under high light, and under such conditions it makes an excellent exporter of nitrates and phosphates. The harvested portions make a terrific treat for aquarium inhabitants.
This delightful animal comes in shades of olive and green with contrasting bumps over its surface. It is similar to the Chocolate Chip starfish. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. In nature it lives on sandy substrate sea grass beds. It is not reef safe and may eat many types of sessile invertebrates such as corals, sponges and anemones. It can be fed pieces of chopped seafood on the sand with the starfish placed on top.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 12 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Each polyp is connected by a flexible mat which is red to dark purple if Pachyclavularia sp. and lighter purple if Briareum sp. The mat may adhere strongly to rock or even a smooth surface like glass or plastic, but can also grow across the sand. Its growth rate may be very fast, and if placed too close to another coral it may grow right over it. Plenty of space should be provided to accommodate this future growth. If disturbed this coral may completely retract its polyps into the mat. Briareum sp. may occasionally shed a waxy sheet, which is a natural cleansing behavior. These corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton. Being highly adaptable and nearly pest and disease free makes them a great choice for beginners. Most coral eating fish will not touch them; any damage that may occur to the colony is typically re-grown with vigor. They may be sensitive to the aluminum oxide in some phosphate-absorbing media, and to the over use of iodine. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae.Star Polyp resembles its close relative Pipe Organ coral; the main difference is speed of growth. While Star Polyp grows very quickly, Pipe Organ grows much slower as it must construct a rigid tube for each polyp. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - High Average Placement: Low - Top Water Flow: Low - Strong Temperament: Peaceful Green Star Polyp is an all-time favorite which nearly every aquarist keeps at one time or another. It is affectionately known as “GSP” and is known for its intense emerald color, which fluoresces vividly under actinic lighting. The base of each tentacle is often deep pink, with a spot of stark white in the center of each polyp.
Green Tiger Barb
Barbodes semifasciolatus
Barbs add a fun, loud personality to add to your peaceful homeaquarium. They are quite active in the aquarium, and because they tend to want to school in groups of at least 5, more timid fish or long finned fish should be avoided as tank mates.Barbs are omnivores, meaning they should be supplied with a varied dietof high- quality flake food and meaty frozen shrimp.
Green Tiger Barb Specifics
Green Tiger Barbs grow to a size of 3", so a 30g aquarium for a school of at least 5 fish would be preferable. Their water temperature should be between 74-79oF. pH between 6.0-7.0, and a dKH between 4-10
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Green, or Lime wrasse, is a uniquely colored fish that is popular in reef aquaria for its ability to control many coral pests. As a juvenile it is as bright as fresh citrus, and when mature is a silvery mint color. Subtle turquoise and magenta squiggles decorates the adult's face. Males and females are identical; females may have lighter colored bellies. It grows to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
The Grey angel is a subtle beauty from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is stark black with bright yellow stripes running from top to bottom. As an adult, the stripes it has as a juvenile fade away and it becomes a dusty grey with many of its scales dotted with deep charcoal. The tips of the dorsal and anal fins extend into long trailing points. It is similar in appearance to the French angelfish, however there are some differences. As a juvenile the very end of the grey angel's tail fin is transparent, whereas on the French angel it is yellow. As an adult, the Grey angel's scales are dotted with black and lack the yellow highlights of the French. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Grey angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Grey angel is a subtle beauty from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is stark black with bright yellow stripes running from top to bottom. As an adult, the stripes it has as a juvenile fade away and it becomes a dusty grey with many of its scales dotted with deep charcoal. The tips of the dorsal and anal fins extend into long trailing points. It is similar in appearance to the French angelfish, however there are some differences. As a juvenile the very end of the grey angel's tail fin is transparent, whereas on the French angel it is yellow. As an adult, the Grey angel's scales are dotted with black and lack the yellow highlights of the French. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Grey angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Griessinger’s goby is truly a spectacular animal. It has enormous fins for its size, and all of them covered in a fiery orange as hot as molten rock. Its first dorsal fin is a high spike, and it frequently fans its large, spiked pectoral fins in front of its face while flicking this dorsal fin up and down. Its body is pale fawn color, with a deep chocolate stripe running along its flank and tiny polka dots on its face. Large chocolate spots are also present on the second dorsal fin and tail, creating striking contrast. All these qualities make for a fish much larger than life- it grows to only 1 inche long but makes a huge impression when it emerges from within the rockwork. This amazing fish is best housed in small aquaria where it can be seen more frequently. It typically sneaks through the rockwork making sporadic visits into the open, typically when the lighting is dim or during feeding time.It has been granted many names, most popularly known as the flaming prawn goby- though it does not bond with a pistol shrimp. Males and females are visually identical. Tank mates should be carefully selected and similarly peaceful.Sand gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping around on the substrate in an entertaining manner. A fine sand bed of at least two inches will help them feel secure.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial to others of the same or similar species, however if two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
A fantastic fish for the collector of the rare and wonderful, the Gumdrop Coral Croucher, or velvetfish, makes a lovely addition to the peaceful aquarium. It resembles a colorful clown goby, however it is actually more closely related to scorpionfish. Its stocky body is delicate rosy pink all over with bright bubblegum colored polka dots sprinkled everywhere. Males and females are identical. The Gumdrop Coral Croucher grows to 2.5 inches and should be kept in an aquarium at least 10 gallons.Gumdrop Coral Croucher are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day perched on rocks and coral. In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, usually Pocillopora and Stylophora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a Gumdrop Coral Croucher may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its branches.The Gumdrop Coral Croucher should never be touched as it contains a toxin that can cause painful wounds similar to a bee sting. Great care should be taken when handling the Gumdrop Coral Croucher, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish. Predatory fish may or may not recognize the Gumdrop Coral Croucher as venomous, so caution should be used when combining the Gumdrop Coral Croucher with larger fish. It is peaceful towards all other fish but may fight with its own kind unless a pair is maintained. Gumdrop Coral Croucher are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Live food may be necessary at first, and the use of a feeding tube may be useful in making sure the Gumdrop Coral Croucher gets enough to eat.
The Gunther's, or Crochet butterfly, is covered in tiny black speckles giving it a wonderful texture as though it has been carefully crafted by a talented artisan. A dark mask covers its eyes, and its rear fins are also edged in black. Its dorsal fin and rear body are intense sulphur yellow, so bright it nearly glows. It is similar to the Lemon butterfly but lacks the black blotch on its tail. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.This species is normally quite peaceful and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. It prefers strong water flow to swim against. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals especially soft corals, LPS, sponges, clam mantles, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is usually easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Half Black angel is overall a deep creamy color with bright orange highlights around the eyes and gill covers. Its front fins are dusty yellow and its rear half deep, velvety black. Males and females are visually identical.The Half Black angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Half Black Veiltail Angelfish Pterophyllum scalare Freshwater Angels come in a variety of different colours and patterns, with long wispy fins that flow elegantly behind them. Though considered semi-aggressive, this behavior is only exhibited from breeding pairs who wish to protect their territory. They do like to live amongst other angels so long as they are provided with enough space. They are peaceful toward other community fish. Angels can grow to a size of 6 inches from the tip of their nose to the end length of their tail. They are not the most active fish and like to hover around in open spaces of the tank, so they require a tank of at least 30 gallons, more for a large school. Angels need to be fed a variety of meaty foods such as brine shrimp and vegetables in the form of high-quality flake or pellet food. Half Black VeilTail Angelfish Specifics The Half-Black Veil-Tail Angelfish are considered semi-aggressive fish that grow to a size of 6 inches. They like their temperatures between 75-82o, pH between 5.8-8.0.
Hermit crabs need to live inside of a snail shell in order to keep their soft bodies safe. Even with many shells available hermit crabs will occasionally kill snails in order to take their shell. Please ask our staff and we will be happy to supply you with some empty shells.This colorful crab from Hawaii is bright scarlet with orange bands. It grows to a medium size and needs shells with a narrow opening such as conch shells. It is well known to eat many types of algae including some hair algae. It is considered reef safe, however it is an opportunistic omnivore and will take food where it can find it. It will also eat detritus, fish food, and anything else edible.
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
