Goniopora- Frag Group 1.
Four small Gonioporas, sold separately.
B5- Small pink Goniopora
B39- Small Green Goniopora
B35- 3 pieces: pink, green and gold Gonioporas.
B6- Small green Goniopora.
Goniopora- Frag Group 3
Four small Gonioporas, sold separately.
B7- Small Orange/Pink Goniopora
B46- Small Green Goniopora
B20- Small Pink Goniopora
C73- Small Pink Goniopora
Goniopora- Frag Group 4
Four small Gonioporas, sold separately.
C56- Small Goniopora
B25- Small Green Goniopora
B33- Small Green Goniopora
B47- No longer available
Goniopora- Frag Group 5
Four small Gonioporas, sold separately.
C72- Small Goniopora
A64- Small Green Goniopora
B3- Small Rust/Red Goniopora
C74- Small Pink Goniopora
This coral is completely non-photosynthetic and receives its energy by capturing copepod nauplii, rotifers, fine zooplankton and coral snow. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Intense lighting is not needed and may actually be detrimental.Moderate water flow is essential and is ideally provided using diffused laminar flow, with the coral’s polyps facing away from the flow. This will deliver food to the polyps and also will clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris from its branches. A very soft brush may also be used to help keep it clean. In extreme cases it may be soaked in fresh water of the same temperature and pH for up to one minute. They should also be inspected for predatory pests such as Primovula sp. snails. The coral may occasionally shed a waxy sheet, which is a natural cleansing behavior.Gorgonians will secure themselves to the substrate via a holdfast. It may be necessary to secure the coral initially with epoxy or ties until it has grown. Gorgonians may also grow quite tall, so they should be placed low enough to allow for future growth. Most non-photosynthetic species are supported by an armature of fused calcareous sclerites which may be brittle. Care should be taken when handling; however, if a branch is broken it may regrow into a new coral.Gorgonians are very sensitive to ammonia and may retract their polyps if they detect poor water quality. They create anti-microbial chemicals which helps them to resist disease. However, if it is seen that the tip of a branch is being lost then that branch should be fed heavily for about a week and then the tip should be clipped off slightly into the healthy tissue and the coral may heal itself.
Difficulty: Advanced
Growth Speed: Medium
Lighting: Not Applicable
Average Placement: Low - Middle
Water Flow: High
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.It is hard to resist the allure of the Torch coral’s long, waving tentacles. Each is tipped with a bright end, like the light on a flashlight. The ultra Torch coral is intensely hued, and may be nearly any color including electric green or a rare shade of orange or yellow.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.It is hard to resist the allure of the Torch coral’s long, waving tentacles. Each is tipped with a bright end, like the light on a flashlight. The ultra Torch coral is intensely hued, and may be nearly any color including electric green or a rare shade of orange or yellow.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
Tunicates, or Sea Squirts, resemble sponges but are actually very complicated animals related to fish. Their adult form lives attached to hard substrate and filters the water for food, mainly bacterioplankton. A well established aquarium with a sand substrate will help to generate appropriate food. Additions of phytoplankton and occasional stirring of the sand, as well as minimal or no protein skimming, may help. We recommend Tunicates only be attempted by expert aquarists who can meet their demanding needs.This bizarre creature is typically pure white with bright green siphons and may grow up to 4 inches.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A common import from the Philippines and Bali, this is one of the most popular fish to cycle an aquarium because it is extremely hardy and easy to keep. Its whole body is a silver greenish color which shines magnificently under the light. Larger individuals may bully small ones incessantly. Grows up to 3.5 Inches.
The Green Clown goby is a small fish with bright colors and a large head for its size. Its body is mainly a bright emerald green, overlaid with many squiggles in a deep pinkish red. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 5 gallons, or at least 10 gallons for a pair. There are reports of this species being especially helpful in removing nuisance algae from corals. It does not consume the algae, but may tear it away from the coral's skeleton.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Green Corydora Corydoras aeneus Corydoras, or Cory Cats, are incredible little bottom dwellers that add some life to the bottom of your tank. Corys are peaceful and prefer to spend their time sifting through the top layer of your substrate alongside other Corys. They are recommended to be kept in groups of at least 6 others, but more may be added as well. Corydoras are omnivores, they will appreciate being provided with a well-balanced diet of quality flake food, frozen food, and/or live food. A tank of 20 gallons is recommended for a school of Corys, as they grow only to 2 inches. Providing them with a planted aquascape is preferred as they like shaded areas to hide and sift through. Smoother/softer gravel will be a better fit for these fish, their soft facial barbels are prone to being damaged on rougher substrates and surfaces while they are cleaning up. Green Cory Cat Specifics Green Corydora grow to a size of 3.5" and in a proper school do best in a 20g aquarium. Their water temperature should be between 68-82oF and their pH between 6.0-8.0.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The beautiful Green Pencil wrasse is bright pink with a gold eye when young, but mature males changes to a stunning emerald green when mature. A sapphire blue stripe runs from its nose to its tail; from its gill cover to its tail is also an electric yellow stripe. Along its back is an orange stripe, its belly is a lighter aqua color, and a wide black bar edges its caudal fin. It is also known as the Smalltail and Blue Stripe wrasse. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
The Scat is a beautiful fish with dark spots or stripes over its shimmery body. Its fins are highlighted with red, and it develops a high back when mature. Males and females are visually identical. The Scat grows to 12 inches and once fully grown needs an aquarium at least 150 gallons.In the wild Scats live in light brackish water when juvenile and gradually swim into salt water as they grow. Our Scats are acclimated to full salt water conditions, but they could also be kept in a brackish aquarium. The Scat does best when kept in a school. The group will establish a pecking order, so to reduce aggression we recommend at least four individuals.They are friendly with other fish and are commonly kept in a mixed school with Monos. Both these fish are attractive and very hardy. Most other peaceful fish make good tankmates, except for very tiny fish which may be seen as food. Small invertebrates such as shrimp may be eaten, and it may also nibble coral. We recommend caution when handling the Scat in a net because its spines are mildly venomous and may cause a painful sting.Scats are omnivorous and will eat any type of food including flakes. Plenty of vegetable matter including marine algae and Spirulina helps to keep them healthy, combined with dry food and occasional meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp and enriched brine shrimp. They may also eat vegetables such as spinach or broccoli, and as well as plants and macroalgae. They are known to graze on nuisance algae, including hair algae, in the aquarium.
Green Sea Lettuce creates thin, flat sheets which are translucent and very beautiful. In time it may form a disc shaped holdfast. It can be grown in the aquarium but may be eaten by many species of fish, sea hares, and other invertebrates. It is usually kept in a refugium or algae tumbler under high light, and under such conditions it makes an excellent exporter of nitrates and phosphates. The harvested portions make a terrific treat for aquarium inhabitants.
This delightful animal comes in shades of olive and green with contrasting bumps over its surface. It is similar to the Chocolate Chip starfish. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. In nature it lives on sandy substrate sea grass beds. It is not reef safe and may eat many types of sessile invertebrates such as corals, sponges and anemones. It can be fed pieces of chopped seafood on the sand with the starfish placed on top.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 12 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Each polyp is connected by a flexible mat which is red to dark purple if Pachyclavularia sp. and lighter purple if Briareum sp. The mat may adhere strongly to rock or even a smooth surface like glass or plastic, but can also grow across the sand. Its growth rate may be very fast, and if placed too close to another coral it may grow right over it. Plenty of space should be provided to accommodate this future growth. If disturbed this coral may completely retract its polyps into the mat. Briareum sp. may occasionally shed a waxy sheet, which is a natural cleansing behavior. These corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton. Being highly adaptable and nearly pest and disease free makes them a great choice for beginners. Most coral eating fish will not touch them; any damage that may occur to the colony is typically re-grown with vigor. They may be sensitive to the aluminum oxide in some phosphate-absorbing media, and to the over use of iodine. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae.Star Polyp resembles its close relative Pipe Organ coral; the main difference is speed of growth. While Star Polyp grows very quickly, Pipe Organ grows much slower as it must construct a rigid tube for each polyp. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - High Average Placement: Low - Top Water Flow: Low - Strong Temperament: Peaceful Green Star Polyp is an all-time favorite which nearly every aquarist keeps at one time or another. It is affectionately known as “GSP” and is known for its intense emerald color, which fluoresces vividly under actinic lighting. The base of each tentacle is often deep pink, with a spot of stark white in the center of each polyp.
Golden Barb Barbodes semifasciolatus Barbs are a fun, loud personality to add to your peaceful home aquarium. They are quite active in the aquarium, and because they tend to want to school in groups of at least 5, more timid fish or long finned fish should be avoided as tank mates. Barbs are omnivores, meaning they should be supplied with a varied diet of high- quality flake food and meaty frozen shrimp. Golden Barb Specifics The Golden Barb grows to a size of 3", and because they like to school, should be kept in aquariums of at least 30g. Their water temperature should be 74-82oF, pH between 6.0-7.0.
Green Tiger Barb
Barbodes semifasciolatus
Barbs add a fun, loud personality to add to your peaceful homeaquarium. They are quite active in the aquarium, and because they tend to want to school in groups of at least 5, more timid fish or long finned fish should be avoided as tank mates.Barbs are omnivores, meaning they should be supplied with a varied dietof high- quality flake food and meaty frozen shrimp.
Green Tiger Barb Specifics
Green Tiger Barbs grow to a size of 3", so a 30g aquarium for a school of at least 5 fish would be preferable. Their water temperature should be between 74-79oF. pH between 6.0-7.0, and a dKH between 4-10
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Green, or Lime wrasse, is a uniquely colored fish that is popular in reef aquaria for its ability to control many coral pests. As a juvenile it is as bright as fresh citrus, and when mature is a silvery mint color. Subtle turquoise and magenta squiggles decorates the adult's face. Males and females are identical; females may have lighter colored bellies. It grows to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
The Grey angel is a subtle beauty from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is stark black with bright yellow stripes running from top to bottom. As an adult, the stripes it has as a juvenile fade away and it becomes a dusty grey with many of its scales dotted with deep charcoal. The tips of the dorsal and anal fins extend into long trailing points. It is similar in appearance to the French angelfish, however there are some differences. As a juvenile the very end of the grey angel's tail fin is transparent, whereas on the French angel it is yellow. As an adult, the Grey angel's scales are dotted with black and lack the yellow highlights of the French. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Grey angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Grey angel is a subtle beauty from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is stark black with bright yellow stripes running from top to bottom. As an adult, the stripes it has as a juvenile fade away and it becomes a dusty grey with many of its scales dotted with deep charcoal. The tips of the dorsal and anal fins extend into long trailing points. It is similar in appearance to the French angelfish, however there are some differences. As a juvenile the very end of the grey angel's tail fin is transparent, whereas on the French angel it is yellow. As an adult, the Grey angel's scales are dotted with black and lack the yellow highlights of the French. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Grey angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Griessinger’s goby is truly a spectacular animal. It has enormous fins for its size, and all of them covered in a fiery orange as hot as molten rock. Its first dorsal fin is a high spike, and it frequently fans its large, spiked pectoral fins in front of its face while flicking this dorsal fin up and down. Its body is pale fawn color, with a deep chocolate stripe running along its flank and tiny polka dots on its face. Large chocolate spots are also present on the second dorsal fin and tail, creating striking contrast. All these qualities make for a fish much larger than life- it grows to only 1 inche long but makes a huge impression when it emerges from within the rockwork. This amazing fish is best housed in small aquaria where it can be seen more frequently. It typically sneaks through the rockwork making sporadic visits into the open, typically when the lighting is dim or during feeding time.It has been granted many names, most popularly known as the flaming prawn goby- though it does not bond with a pistol shrimp. Males and females are visually identical. Tank mates should be carefully selected and similarly peaceful.Sand gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping around on the substrate in an entertaining manner. A fine sand bed of at least two inches will help them feel secure.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial to others of the same or similar species, however if two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Gunther's, or Crochet butterfly, is covered in tiny black speckles giving it a wonderful texture as though it has been carefully crafted by a talented artisan. A dark mask covers its eyes, and its rear fins are also edged in black. Its dorsal fin and rear body are intense sulphur yellow, so bright it nearly glows. It is similar to the Lemon butterfly but lacks the black blotch on its tail. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.This species is normally quite peaceful and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. It prefers strong water flow to swim against. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals especially soft corals, LPS, sponges, clam mantles, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is usually easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Half Black angel is overall a deep creamy color with bright orange highlights around the eyes and gill covers. Its front fins are dusty yellow and its rear half deep, velvety black. Males and females are visually identical.The Half Black angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Half Black Veiltail Angelfish Pterophyllum scalare Freshwater Angels come in a variety of different colours and patterns, with long wispy fins that flow elegantly behind them. Though considered semi-aggressive, this behavior is only exhibited from breeding pairs who wish to protect their territory. They do like to live amongst other angels so long as they are provided with enough space. They are peaceful toward other community fish. Angels can grow to a size of 6 inches from the tip of their nose to the end length of their tail. They are not the most active fish and like to hover around in open spaces of the tank, so they require a tank of at least 30 gallons, more for a large school. Angels need to be fed a variety of meaty foods such as brine shrimp and vegetables in the form of high-quality flake or pellet food. Bulgarian Seal Point Angelfish Specifics The Half-Black Veil-Tail Angelfish are considered semi-aggressive fish that grow to a size of 6 inches. They like their temperatures between 75-82o, pH between 5.8-8.0.
Hermit crabs need to live inside of a snail shell in order to keep their soft bodies safe. Even with many shells available hermit crabs will occasionally kill snails in order to take their shell. Please ask our staff and we will be happy to supply you with some empty shells.This colorful crab from Hawaii is bright scarlet with orange bands. It grows to a medium size and needs shells with a narrow opening such as conch shells. It is well known to eat many types of algae including some hair algae. It is considered reef safe, however it is an opportunistic omnivore and will take food where it can find it. It will also eat detritus, fish food, and anything else edible.
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.With tentacles waving in the current in an almost hypnotic fashion, Hammer coral has charmed nearly every reef keeper at some point. Each tentacle ends in a single “T” shaped tip in a contrasting hue from its stalk.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.Emerging from a single, undulating skeleton are countless waving polyps, each with a uniquely shaped tip that resembles a ship’s anchor.Many color combinations are possible, with Australian corals being more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water and may be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc.Although Euphyllia corals can be quite hardy and not prone to pests, they are not tolerant of poor water quality and may fail to extend their polyps. Physical damage to the coral should be avoided at all cost, as it is prone to infectious brown jelly infection.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles; low water flow helps to minimize the growth of these tentacles.Emerging from a single, undulating skeleton are countless waving polyps, each with a uniquely shaped tip that resembles a ship’s anchor.Ultra Australian colors are always exceedingly bright and impressive, and usually fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting:Medium Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Aggressive
Bass and Basslets make wonderful peaceful community fish and are also coral safe. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for Basslets which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and groups of multiple individuals. There are no differences between males and females. Basslets feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming.They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen meaty foods, and may learn to take dry foods in time. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.The dashing Harlequin bass makes a fantastic addition to new or established aquariums alike. A beautiful buff yellow coats its chest and highlights its fins against a backdrop of cloudy white. Dramatic dark charcoal bands and spots adorn this fish from nose to tail creating amazing contrast. It is normally peaceful with other fish, however because of its large size it may bully small fish or other fish with similar body styles and habits, as well as shrimp. The Harlequin bass grows to 4 inches and comes from the Caribbean.
Harlequin Rasbora Trigonostigma heteromorpha Rasboras, Danios and Barbs are a highly sought after fish in the hobby. Not only do they beautifully school in the upper areas of your tank, but they also remain rather small, so they are a perfect addition to many smaller sized aquariums. They are a peaceful fish that enjoy the company of others of its species, a school of at least 6 is recommended to keep them feeling safe and secure, but adding more is a welcomed idea. Rasboras, Danios and Barbs generally grow to a size of around 2 inches, so a tank of at least 10 gallons would be best suited for the Rasbora fish, as they enjoy having enough space to swim around in their school. Planted aquariums would provide them with ample spots to hide in and weave through as they are swimming about. Rasboras are omnivores and should be fed a well-balanced diet of freeze-dried bloodworms and quality flake food. Harlequin Rasbora Specifics The Harlequin Rasbora is a peaceful fish that grows up to 2 inches. They should be kept in water that is 72-77oF, pH between 6.0-6.5.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.The Harlequin shrimp is a strikingly beautiful animal related to the Bongo shrimp. It is a specialized predator and only eats starfish, including Asterina stars, but also larger species such as linkia, chocolate chip and sand sifting species. Females are larger and have spots under their tails which males do not. Its claws are designed for flipping over starfish, and when a large starfish is chosen the shrimp will attempt to keep it alive as long as possible while it is eaten. The Harlequin shrimp grows to 2 inches and is known to live up to 6 years.
Sweetlips are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They are friendly with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, snails, serpent stars, and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be added at the same time. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Sweetlips feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least twice a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Harlequin sweetlips is usually available as an adorable juvenile, but its potential for growth should not be underestimated. Small fish are a caramel color with big white polka dots and oversized fins. They swim in an undulating fashion, resembling a clownfish, to mimic the movements of poisonous flatworms and avoid predation. They grow into handsome fish with olive colored bodies and countless black spots, silver bellies, and black fins. Males and females are identical. The Harlequin Sweetlips grows up to 28 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 225 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, as well as other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. They may also bully or eat small fish, but are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.The stunning Harlequin Tusk fish is an incredible animal with attractive colors and personality. Its body is as white as snow with wide vertical bands in a pumpkin to tangerine color outlined in deep blue. Its eyes are red, and its body changes from white to navy blue at the base of its white tail. This fish is famous for its large blue teeth. When young it has several dark eyespots on its dorsal fin. Specimens from Australia have more saturated colors overall, and have more blue near the tail. It grows to 10 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, as well as other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. They may also bully or eat small fish, but are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.The stunning Harlequin Tusk fish is an incredible animal with attractive colors and personality. Its body is as white as snow with wide vertical bands in a pumpkin to tangerine color outlined in deep blue. Its eyes are red, and its body changes from white to navy blue at the base of its white tail. This fish is famous for its large blue teeth. When young it has several dark eyespots on its dorsal fin. Specimens from Australia have more saturated colors overall, and have more blue near the tail. It grows to 10 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Harptail blenny is a lovely little fish with an elongated dusty blue to purple colored body framed by its contrasting jet black pectoral and anal fins. Its forked tail is bright lemony yellow. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 4 inches. Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. They only use this bite as defense and are generally quite peaceful to tank mates. However, care should be taken when handling the fish in a net, or if small children have access to the aquarium and may put their fingers in the water. Fang blennies spend almost all their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. They are reef safe and very easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.
The Hasselt’s goby is a unique and interesting fish. It is also called the flap-head goby after its oversized pectoral fins which it fans in front of its face in a flapping motion. It tends to do this strange behavior every few seconds making it quite entertaining to watch. Its fawn colored body is adorned in coffee colored stripes and bands with jagged edges, and an even darker spot is on the upper edge of its caudal fin. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Sand gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping around on the substrate in an entertaining manner. A fine sand bed of at least two inches will help them feel secure.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial to others of the same or similar species, however if two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
