Marine Fish

Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.This exquisite beauty comes from Hawaiian waters and boasts amazing colors. Bright pink covers most of their body, except their back and tail which are intense yellow. Their nose is upturned in an adorable fashion, and a lyre shaped tail. Males have a yellow bar running down their side and more saturated colors. Males may be especially aggressive, and should not be housed with any other male anthias. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single individual, larger for a group.

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One of the ocean's greatest masterpieces, the dazzling Golden butterfly is intense lemon yellow from nose to tail. Narrow vertical stripes in a deep, fiery orange rake down its sides, and a contrasting dark blotch covers its eyes. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is occasionally imported from the Red Sea.This species is normally quite peaceful and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept in pairs or groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals especially hard coral, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species varies in its willingness to eat prepared foods and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Cleaner wrasses are naturally bold and spend their days swimming in the open, often with a unique up and down dance used to attract the attention of client fish. Their natural foods are parasites such as amphipods as well as dead skin and scales from larger fish. Smaller parasites such as ICH may be ignored in favor of searching for a more substantial meal. They instinctively want to clean other fish from dawn until dusk, so they are only recommended for large aquariums with plenty of tank mates. Otherwise they may pester their tank mates so much the other fish may chase and bite them. They have no fear of huge fish, so caution should be used if adding them with fish such as groupers which may swallow them whole.It is difficult to meet their unique nutritional needs, and as such they often fair poorly in aquariums. If they will accept prepared items they should frequently be offered a wide variety of foods thorough the day. Cleaner wrasses are totally reef safe, except with Tridacnid clams. The spots on the clam's mantel may be mistaken for parasites and nipped on by the wrasse. Cleaner wrasses are friendly with every other type of fish, but are extremely territorial with each other and may fight violently. At night time or when frightened they will hide amongst the rocks.The Bicolor Cleaner wrasse has a striking combination of color and contrast. Its front half is a metallic blue and its rear half lemony yellow. A bold black stripe begins at its nose and extends all the way to the end of its flared tail fin. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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The Steinitz's shrimp goby is an attractive little fish that makes an entertaining display. Its milky white body is covered in wide contrasting bands in a deep pink to purple huge. Its face is distinctively absent of most markings, save for some turquoise spots behind the eyes which shimmer when the light hits them just right. There may be a dark shadowing over the eyes depending on the fish's mood. On mature fish the fins are spangled with shining spots like a starry sky. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. It is imported occasionally from the Indian Ocean.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Viewing this phenomenal fish will leave you feeling aftershocks... much like the reverberations after a strike of lightning! By breeding the best and whitest Lightning clownfish the Thunder variety was developed. Only its extremities retain the deep red color. Its hard to imagine a more stunning creature than this.Female Maroon clownfish may grow up to 6.5 Inches, with males much smaller; sometimes the female may be up to six times the size of her mate. They are very aggressive and need an aquarium at least 50 gallons or larger.Maroon clownfish are one of the most belligerent of all the clownfish, and will kill any other clownfish species in their aquarium. They are best kept singly, however if a pair is to be attempted wild pairs are often collected and available together. For tank bred fish, the female should be as big as possible and the male as small as possible and added into the female's tank. This is because all Maroon clownfish want to be the most dominant, and unless there is a clear inequality in size neither fish will back down until one of them is killed. It may be beneficial to have a second host for the male fish to retreat to when his mate is feeling feisty.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species.Best hosts are Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor), Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis), Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica), and Sebae (Heteractis crispa).Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The Black Snowflake clownfish is incredibly dark inky black with stripes resembling crystallized water. Juveniles may be mostly orange, however they will darken with age. It may maintain an orange nose through adulthood, or turn completely black. It has been selectively bred so its stripes to take on an interesting appearance, with each fish being unique. In the highest grade specimens the stripes may connect or contain spots or 'holes'.

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Each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. Premium fish have more white than the regular Black Ice; the head stripe and second stripe connect on both sides of the fish. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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The Rusty angel is a uniquely beautiful member of the dwarf angelfish group. Its body is the color of burning embers, with its head looking 'cool' and the tail a very 'hot' and intense fiery orange. It is covered in black spots and its dorsal and anal fins are edged in brilliant blue, with a transparent tail. Males and females are visually identical.The Rusty angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Lunare wrasse is known by many names including Moon and Lyretail wrasse. Juveniles and females are a lovely emerald green with a cyan belly and blue tail, with magenta squiggles on their face. Very young fish have dark eyespots on their dorsal fin and one at the base of the tail. Mature males lose the blue belly to be overall emerald green with brighter pink faces, pectoral fins and edges of their lyre shaped caudal fin, with a bright lemon spot in the middle of the tail. It grows up to 10 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.

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The Bamboo Shark Egg is also known as a Mermaids Purse. Inside a baby shark can be seen growing, and often wiggling around, along with its yolk sack. Its development can be monitored in this way by observing through a light source; however it is very important to never expose the egg to air as this may harm the embryo. It may take up to a few months for the egg to hatch; the baby may be earthy shades with spots or black and white banded. It may be kept in aquariums as small as 20 gallons as an infant to aid in feeding and observation, but when fully grown at 40 inches it will require a 300 gallon or larger.Substrate should be soft sand so it does not scratch its delicate belly. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shark excavates. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. Sharks may be sensitive to medication and should never be treated with copper.The Bamboo Shark will consume any crustacean and small fish it can catch. It is peaceful towards tank mates too large to swallow, but may be picked on by large fish. It may be kept with its own kind, however males may fight with each other and pester females.Sharks are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides, clams and chopped seafood. Juveniles should be offered food at least once a day. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.

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Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Blue Spot Jawfish is an exquisite and rarely imported fish. Its body is an intense golden color, with shimmering sapphire spots all over. Its body becomes a deep navy near the tail, with its fin rays a bright yellow to orange. Males and females are identical. It grows to 3.5 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Deep Scarlet color and huge rounded pelvic fins distinguish the spectacular Social, or Ruby, fairy wrasse. Its head is especially dark red and its body may shimmer gold. As a nice contrast its belly is snowy white, and there are a myriad of sapphire to turquoise speckles arranged in broken lines running across its body and fins. The male’s dorsal fin has a decorative high spike. A male in courtship display is even more impressive; his fins may shimmer white to baby blue. Females are smaller with many pale speckles over their bodies, pencil thin baby blue stripes over their faces and backs, and shorter fins. It is typically available from the Indian Ocean around Sri Lanka. This species is normally very peaceful; it grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The incredible Debelious fairy wrasse is distinctively colored a warm rosy shade with dark ruby saddles over its back and dorsal fin. Some fish even sport yellow to orange colors over their backs and faces. Females are an overall deep pink with a black eyespot at the base of their tails. It is usually aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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The Highfin Heniochus sports a tall dorsal fin with an impressive feathered shape giving it a striking silhouette. Three thick black bands run over its pure white body, and its snout is deep yellow. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups as long as all individuals are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Heniochus do not show differences between males and females. Heniochus are also known as bannerfish and are related to butterflyfish and angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.Butterflyfish and bannerfish may eat anemones, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The fish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock and overhangs to hide under, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed but may be fussy initially. It should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.

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The Maculosus is a stunning and uncommon import from the Red Sea. It is sometimes called the half moon angelfish. Its impressive coloration is a high contrast between a dark black/blue body with a curved yellow band vertically across the mid body and a dusty yellow tail. Young fish may have white instead of yellow markings. It may be confused with the Asfur angel, however the Maculosus angel's tail is a softer shade of yellow. Males and females are visually identical. The Maculosus angel can grow to be up to 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The black Molly is an elegant fish that is all over velvety black. It makes a stunning contrast against a colorful background. Males have a high dorsal fin and thin anal fin while the female's anal fin is rounded. The molly grows to 3 inches and should be kept in an aquarium at least 20 gallons.Mollies are a brackish water fish by nature, and are very adaptable to a wide variety of salt levels. Our Mollies are acclimated to full salt water conditions. They are very sociable and friendly with all other fish and invertebrates to the point of being innocent, lacking the 'street smarts' of reef fish. As such they are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones or other stinging animals. Mollies do well in groups with their own kind, with one male to every two females. The modified anal fin of the male is used in breeding, and females will give live birth to large babies which can be separated from the parents and raised easily.Mollies are omnivorous and will eat any type of food including flakes. Plenty of marine algae and Spirulina helps to keep them healthy, combined with frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, pellets, and other high quality items. They are well known to graze on nuisance algae in the aquarium.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Four Spot Yellow Coris is a delightful fish colored bright lemon yellow on its back and snowy white to delicate lavender on its belly. It has three black eyespots on its dorsal fin and one at the base of its tail. When mature it may change to be overall rosy pink. It is also known as the Yellow and Purple wrasse, and is very similar to the Yellow Coris wrasse, however the Yellow coris has a solid yellow belly. Another common name is the Triple Spot Wrasse, named for the three spots on its dorsal fin. It is most commonly imported from the Indian Ocean. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.

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Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.The amazing Platinum clownfish is stark white over most of its body, its stripes having all joined together. Its face and fins are bright orange with pure black edging.

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The Gold Flake Maroon clownfish is an impressive animal with intense red color and three amber colored stripes. Between the stripes are spots, usually on the rear half of the animal. Large females tend to be a darker shade than small males, which can be quite brightly colored. Young fish have white stripes that change color with maturity.Female Maroon clownfish may grow up to 6.5 Inches, with males much smaller; sometimes the female may be up to six times the size of her mate. They are very aggressive and need an aquarium at least 50 gallons or larger.Maroon clownfish are one of the most belligerent of all the clownfish, and will kill any other clownfish species in their aquarium. They are best kept singly, however if a pair is to be attempted wild pairs are often collected and available together. For tank bred fish, the female should be as big as possible and the male as small as possible and added into the female's tank. This is because all Maroon clownfish want to be the most dominant, and unless there is a clear inequality in size neither fish will back down until one of them is killed. It may be beneficial to have a second host for the male fish to retreat to when his mate is feeling feisty.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species.Best hosts are Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor), Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis), Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica), and Sebae (Heteractis crispa).Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The Black Snowflake clownfish is incredibly dark inky black with stripes resembling crystallized water. Juveniles may be mostly orange, however they will darken with age. It may maintain an orange nose through adulthood, or turn completely black. It has been selectively bred so its stripes to take on an interesting appearance, with each fish being unique.

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Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Smiths blenny also known as the Disco blenny, and it makes a very fun and interesting addition. Its body is primarily white to light cream color with a dark black stripe running through its eye and along its back. Above the black stripe its dorsal fin is white, and its rounded tail has a few black stripes along the fin rays. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 3.5 inches.Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. They only use this bite as defense and are generally quite peaceful to tank mates. However, care should be taken when handling the fish in a net, or if small children have access to the aquarium and may put their fingers in the water. Fang blennies spend almost all their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. They are reef safe and very easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.

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The Majestic angel sports some of the brightest colors of any angelfish, and also remains one of the smallest of its genus. It is also known as the blue girdled angelfish because of the blue markings which extend down its face and posterior across its entire belly. Its back and tail are a bright yellow. Each scale on its sides has a dot of blue in the center. As a juvenile it is deep blue with vertical bands, however they transition while at a small size and most of the individuals we carry already show the adult colors. Males and females are visually identical.The Majestic angel can grow to be up to 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Regal angelfish is a stunning beauty; however, it can be one of the most challenging angelfish to keep. Its dazzling colors make it highly sought after. It is primarily yellow with white vertical stripes edged in blue over its entire body. Reginal variations include from the Philippines it may have a blueish to whitish breast; from the Indian Ocean its breast may be yellowish, and from the Red Sea it is a deep orangey-yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Regal angel can grow to be up to 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Because of the challenge of keeping this species we recommend it be added as one of the first fish in the aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It is common for regal angelfish to be finicky feeders. Many people find specimens from the Red Sea to be slightly easier to care for. They should be given a highly varied diet fed minimum 2-3 times a day. marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may entice a feeding response.

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The marine Betta is an exquisite beauty like no other. It is velvety black all over, and shimmers a rainbow of colors when the light hits it just right. Tiny white polka dots, like stars in the sky, cover every inch, and there is a large eyespot on its dorsal fin near the tail. This fish can inflate its fins to such a degree it nearly triples in size. Males and females are identical. The Betta grows up to 8 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.The Betta, or Comet, is most active in the evening hours. It moves through the aquarium with grace and purpose, usually with its fins spread. It appreciates an aquarium with plenty of rockwork and overhangs to help it feel secure. It is peaceful with all other fish too large to be swallowed. It may consume shrimp, but otherwise is reef safe. Aggressive tank mates which steal its food and force it into hiding should be avoided. Betta are carnivores and should be fed a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood at least once a day. If it refuses to feed then food should be offered after lights-out when it is more active.

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The alluring Double Saddle, or False Falcula butterfly, has two wide black stripes draped over its back which dissipate into fine stripes as they reach its belly. It is primarily pure white, except for its rear end which is deep dandelion yellow, and the lemony tips of its dorsal fin. A dark mask covers its eyes and it has a long snout. It resembles the True Falcula butterfly but has less yellow on its dorsal fin. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is normally quite peaceful towards all other fish, including other butterflyfish, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept in pairs which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is hardy and usually easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Dazzling scarlet stripes rake across the face and midbody of the Red Lined wrasse. Its pine green body makes a stunning contrast against the crimson stripes decorating its fins and crescent stripe on its tail. Males have the brightest colors, and females have two eyespots on the rear dorsal fin. Juveniles are impressively striped scarlet and snow white with two dorsal eyespots and one near the base of the tail. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A striking beauty out of the Caribbean, the Cuban hogfish sports dramatic scarlet over most of its body. Its tail and rear dorsal area is intense lemon yellow, and a snowy white stripe extends from its chin towards its tail. Contrasting jet black spots are on its dorsal and pectoral fins. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates, although it is a fast swimmer and may intimidate small fish. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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Biota Stary Goby

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Other fish can only dream of reaching the pinnacle of beauty which is the Gold Nugget Clownfish. Its body and much of its fins are covered in treasured gold leaf, leaving only the tips of its extremities a deep red. Young fish are white and change as they mature. If you're looking for a rare and exquisite fish for your aquarium, this may be it.Female Maroon clownfish may grow up to 6.5 Inches, with males much smaller; sometimes the female may be up to six times the size of her mate. They are very aggressive and need an aquarium at least 50 gallons or larger.Maroon clownfish are one of the most belligerent of all the clownfish, and will kill any other clownfish species in their aquarium. They are best kept singly, however if a pair is to be attempted wild pairs are often collected and available together. For tank bred fish, the female should be as big as possible and the male as small as possible and added into the female's tank. This is because all Maroon clownfish want to be the most dominant, and unless there is a clear inequality in size neither fish will back down until one of them is killed. It may be beneficial to have a second host for the male fish to retreat to when his mate is feeling feisty.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species.Best hosts are Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor), Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis), Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica), and Sebae (Heteractis crispa).Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Yellow Tail Fang blenny is an interesting and colorful fish. It has an elongated body which is pastel blue over the front half of its body and transitions to dusty yellow towards the tail. Across its eye is a dark black line, and its tail develops two long trailing ends giving it another common name, the fork tail blenny. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 4.5 inches.Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. They only use this bite as defense and are generally quite peaceful to tank mates. However, care should be taken when handling the fish in a net, or if small children have access to the aquarium and may put their fingers in the water. Fang blennies spend almost all their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. They are reef safe and very easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.

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Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Saddle blenny is an uncommon import from the Caribbean. It is a creamy color with dark rusty red stripes along its back in the shape of small saddles or inverted triangles. These stripes make it unique as none of its relatives share this sort of pattern. It has red eyes and a pointed snout. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3 inches.The Saddle blenny spends most of its time perched on rocks, always alert and watching its environment. It would appreciate an aquarium with plenty of live rock to make territories in. It is full of personality and appears to watch and interact with its owner through the glass. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.

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The Yellow Tail Poma angel does indeed have a bright yellow tail that is its prime feature. The yellow extends partway up the dorsal fin, and looks especially striking against the fish’s deep, velvety black body. The center of the tail also has a black spot, providing more contrast. Its face is a rusty orange, and a greyish white smudge extends from behind the eye to the upper back. As a juvenile the yellow areas are larger, and there are also yellow markings on its face.The yellow tail poma angel can grow to be approximately 8 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. It may be shy, especially when first introduced to an aquarium. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The spectacular Scott's wrasse displays an incredible variety of color morphs, but all sport a rainbow of vivid colors arranged in broad blotches over the body and fins. Its background body color is typically deep forest green to navy; many fish have a large scarlet patch on their sides, and some have velvety black edging to their fins, although others have lemon yellow fins. Females are colored in more subdued warm shades. This species is able to stand its ground against other fish, and is very aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.Two dramatic colors coat the Bi-Color hogfish- deep rust color on its front half and bright lemon to peach on its rear. Juveniles are rosy pink to burgundy color with electric yellow spots. It sometimes has the beneficial habit of cleaning its fish tank mates. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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The Lagoon, or Harbour goby, is a lovely fish with distinctive turquoise stripes crossing diagonally over its cheeks. These stripes shine brightly when the light hits them just right. Its body may be shades of light cream to dark coffee or even lemon yellow. Its primary color may depend partly on its mood and the color of the aquariums substrate. Darker bands cross over its long body, and its face may show a dark mask over the eyes. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Borbonius anthias is a rare and special gem from deep waters. Its stocky body is rose color with blotches of amber and peach. Its bright yellow fins are edged in magenta, and its eyes are yellow and blue. Each ray of its dorsal fin is an attractive spike. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.As a deep water species they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Juveniles may swim together but adults may bicker. Tank mates should be peaceful in nature. The Borbonius anthias is a special order item; please contact our staff and we will be happy to prepare your order.

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Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.

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The Yasha Ray goby is boldly colored, but quite shy by nature. Blood red spots and stripes cover its stark white body. Its large eyes are bright orange and its fins bright yellow. Its first dorsal fin is a huge spike that may be as tall as the fish is long. Its fin is bright white with a black eyespot and makes this fish an incredible display in a peaceful aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The Yasha Ray goby may be quite shy when initially introduced; a pistol shrimp companion and similarly peaceful tank mates will help it become bolder in time. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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The Flagtail goby is a beautiful sand dwelling fish with bright apricot colored bands along its back, stopping at its belly. One of the bands extends into the center of its caudal fin, which is surrounded in lemon and amber highlighted with sapphire. In the right light its dorsal fin shines with yellow and blue spots. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 15 gallons or larger. It prefers to pair with the Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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A stunning beauty, the Randall's goby makes a huge impression for its small size. Bright tangerine stripes run over its white body, and its first dorsal fin is hugely oversized. This big, round fin is adorned with many white freckles and an attractive eyespot. This flashy fin often makes the Randall's goby a target for potential fin-nipping species. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.An uncommon fish with dazzling coloration, the Vanderbilt chromis is a yellowish green over its whole body with dark blue dots running along its body. Its fins are edged in deep blue and orange. It is found in large schools in Tonga. Grows up to 3 Inches.

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The charming Klein's butterfly combines bright colors and active personality, and is also one of the easiest to keep of all the butterflyfish. Two dark stripes run across its face, one over its lips and the other over its eyes and down through its pelvic fins, and another fainter stripe behind its pectoral fins. Its snowy white body becomes bright daffodil yellow at its mid body and tail. Each scale is decorated with a diamond shaped watermark. It grows up to 5.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.The Klein's butterfly is quite hardy and is a great first butterfly fish. It is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It gets along well with its own kind and with other butterflyfish as long as they are all added at the same time. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on hard corals and leathers but not usually noxious soft corals such as mushrooms. It may eat clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The magnificent Falcula butterfly is grace and beauty all rolled into one. Its entire dorsal fin and back is bright lemon yellow, and a crescent of deeper dandelion coats its rear fins and tail containing thinner stripes of bright tangerine to add extra appeal. Draped across its back are two wide stripes in inky black which taper down into narrow vertical bars. A dark mask covers its eyes and it has a long nose. It resembles the Double Saddle butterfly but has more yellow on its dorsal fin. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept in pairs which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species may be difficult to feed and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Very small individuals may have trouble acclimating to aquarium life, however large established specimens can compete with larger fish for food. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.

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The False Personifer angel is an uncommon and highly sought after fish. Its body is a pure deep black, with bright yellow accents on the chest, pectoral and pelvic fins. Its forehead is yellow, changing to white as it extends down to encircle the face, which is blueish to purple. Its tail is pure, lemony yellow. Mature males have many polka dots on their faces, whereas females do not.The False Personifer angel can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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