Marine Fish

One of the Red Sea's most impressively patterned fish, the Sohal tang is a rare and special import. Its silvery body is streaked with many fine, dark stripes. These stripes, and its outer fins, are a deep velvety black with a hint of blue. Its pectoral and caudal fins are yellow with black edging, and its scalpel is orange. All the outer fins are framed in a bright blue when the light hits them just right. Males and females are visually identical.The Sohal tang can grow to be approximately 16 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger. It is very energetic and can be quite aggressive towards other tangs; if it is to be kept with other tangs it should be the last tang added to a sufficiently large aquarium.Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.

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Pebble Tooth eels have poor eyesight but make up for it with exceptional scent and tactile senses. They typically poke their nose around to find food, often bumping into it before biting. They eat mostly crabs and other hard shelled creatures, and less commonly other fish. They are considered quite safe with large bodied fish too big to swallow; however, sick or injured fish may be too tempting to resist and the eel may attempt to consume them. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Use of a feeding stick may be necessary. We never recommend using ones fingers to feed an eel as the eel may become excited and bite, which may lead to infection. Eel bites should be thoroughly washed and disinfected. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.A gentle giant, the Zebra Moray is one of the most docile eels and is the best choice to keep with other fish as it will not hurt its fish tank mates or its owner. From the tip of its snout to the end its tail it is covered in stripes which may range from inky black to dark chocolate, over a background of snowy white to pale cream. But is it light with dark stripes or dark with light stripes? The Zebra Moray grows to 59 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.We recommend a tight fitting lid for all eel species. They are incredible escape artists, powerful enough to lift themselves out of the water and push on a lid or squeeze through small spaces. Care should also be taken when acclimating so the fish does not escape onto the floor.Their aquarium should provide plenty of secure rockwork- larger species may topple unstable decor or dig under the sand. At least two caves should be provided for each eel, large enough it can fully hide itself when needed. When feeling secure most eels will poke their head out of their cave for the majority of the day. Eels are safe with all corals, sponges and macro algaes, to which they have no interest.Extreme caution should be used if considering adding more than one eel to an aquarium as they may attack one another.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Better known as the Melanurus wrasse, and sometimes as the Hoven's wrasse, this popular fish supplies bright colors and plenty of activity. Females and juveniles have deep yellow and aqua colored stripes along their bodies and fins, and a dark eyespot in the middle of their dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. In males the stripes become magenta and electric blue. Males also lose the eye spots, but develop a dark edge to the caudal fin which becomes a spot when the tail is compressed. A yellow patches develop behind his eye and at the base of his pectoral fin, and five lighter aqua colored saddles can often be seen along their backs. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Flasher wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. Their small size means they are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp. They do not bother corals or anemones. As they are quite dainty we don't recommend keeping them with other types of wrasses or any large or aggressive species else they will be bullied. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first. Groups with more than one male, even of different species, may be kept in large aquariums if they are added at the same time.Females of most species are nearly identical; males may also be difficult to distinguish except when flashing. Hybrid fish are common and carry traits from both species.Flasher wrasses get their name from the male's behavior of raising his fins and intensifying his coloration far beyond his normal appearance, usually to seduce a female or intimidate rival males or other species. At night time flasher wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The incredible McCosker's flasher wrasse is a highly sought after fish. One look at its incredible coloration and it is easy to see why. Males sport a single extended dorsal fin ray which rises as a high spike above his back. His tail is yellow and rounded with two vertical rows of dense spots in bright magenta. Similarly colored spots arranged in stripes run from his nose to the base of the tail, one on his anal fin and two on his dorsal fin. His body is a bright tangerine with a white to yellow belly. When flashing his body becomes golden, anal fin scarlet, and the magenta spots become turquoise. His dorsal fin changes to deep yellow in front and turquoise behind the spike with a red blotch near the tail. Females have similar colors to the male at rest, mainly tangerine with rounded fins. This species is similar to the Carpenter's flasher. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish, larger for a group.

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Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.The Arc Eye hawkfish is a handsome fish with an intense pink coloration fading to peach at its belly. A striking white bar runs from its shoulder to its tail. On its chin are squiggles of tangerine and baby blue. Its most notable feature is an electric yellow spark that extends from its eye and loops back in again. Males and females are visually identical. It is quite predatory on smaller fishes and sometimes even crabs; it is best kept with other large and aggressive species. It grows to 5.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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An eerie mix of inky black under serrated, ghostly white stripes sets this clownfish apart from all others. It is a result of tireless breeding efforts, combining the Premium Snowflake, Black Ice and Black Ocellaris into something totally out of this world. Young fish may be mocha colored, but darken upon maturity. Premium fish have much more white which connects two stripes on at least one side.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The False Percula clownfish maintains its resemblance to its wild relatives- blazing orange while it's stripes may be broken or even missing.

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Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Randall's anthias is one of the most delightful of all the anthias. It is primarily peachy to tangerine in color. Females have lemon yellow on their noses and caudal fins, and may show faint stripes along their backs. Males are brighter overall with pink tails and red edging to their pelvic fins. When displaying they exhibit fantastic stripes along the body of magenta and red. They grow to only 3 inches so a single fish may be kept in an aquarium as small as 60 gallons, but we recommend at least 125 gallons for a group.

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The Angler, or Frogfish, is a fascinating ambush predator which makes an incredible pet and conversation piece. Their stout bodies come in a wide range of colors and textures. They may be rather smooth or bumpy textured. Colors are typically bright red or orange. Most Anglers grow to only 4 inches with some larger species rarely exceeding 8 inches. Because of their low activity level any of them may be kept in aquariums of 20-30 gallons in size.Anglers spend most of their time perched atop the rockwork surveying their surroundings and watching for a potential meal to pass by. Anything that swims or crawls may be considered edible- shrimp, crabs, and other fish, even those larger than itself may be eaten. For this reason the Angler should only be kept with snails and sessile invertebrates such as corals, sponges, tunicates and macroalgae.If hungry an anglerfish will extend its fishing lure from the top of its head and dangle it in front of its mouth. When prey comes close to investigate it is instantly sucked into the vacuum of the Angler's mouth. Many specimens become so tame that they extend their lure when they catch sight of their owner. They rarely swim, usually preferring to literally walk using their fins as feet, or sometimes gulping water and jetting it out the gills to propel themselves. We don't recommend lifting the Angler out of the water as it may occasionally gulp air and have trouble expelling it.They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.

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Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The handsome Rectangular triggerfish goes by many names including Wedge-Tail, V-Line, Rectangle Humu, Lagoon and also by its Hawaiian name Humuhumunukunukuāpuaʻa which means 'Triggerfish with a snout like a pig'. Against its light fawn colored body and snowy belly are many contrasting bars and stripes. Inky black extends from its eyes and forms a large blotch on its belly. A second black area is on its tail, and two turquoise V shaped stripes create dramatic contrast. Deeper baby blue highlights around its eyes and mouth. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 12 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.

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Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. A rainbow of colors streaks across the charming Bursa trigger's face; a bright orange stripe from its mouth, yellow and caramel from its eyes, come together at a point under its pectoral fins. Baby blue highlights around each of the other stripes, all overtop a background of light fawn. The edges of its caudal fin are also orange, and a distinctive black blotch covers its belly. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 9 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.

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Snappers are some of the best and most colorful fish for the large aquarium. They are usually non-aggressive with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as all crustaceans including mantis shrimp. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They will fight with their own kind but different species may be kept together. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Snappers feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed once a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.Few fish can compare with the dramatic High Fin snapper. It has a color scheme that just can't be beat: bright yellow with electric blue stripes along the body and bold orange bands over its face. Its dorsal fin sports several long filaments, especially when young, creating an impressive feathery appearance. As a juvenile it has a black stripe running from its eye to the tip of its caudal fin, but when mature this fades in favor of a black eyespot near the tail. Males and females are identical. The High Fin snapper grows up to 23.5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 250 gallons.

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The Curious Wormfish is indeed an odd looking fish, but beautiful as well. Its long slender body is shades of intense red, striking orange and electric blue. When young they are very thin and especially vulnerable to being bullied or eaten. By the time they are fully grown around 5 inches long their body becomes thicker and the fish stronger, however they are still quite thin compared to most fish and should never be kept with large mouthed tank mates, including sleeper gobies, less they be swallowed whole. They have an enchanting swimming motion of undulating their entire body through the water. When fully grown they may enjoy eating half shell clams along with other smaller meaty items. Males and females are visually identical. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.The Red Tail filefish has a bright emerald to olive colored body contrasting with its fiery red to orange tail. Fine dark speckles cover it all over, and its eye and gill cover are also dark. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Randall's anthias is one of the most delightful of all the anthias. It is primarily peachy to tangerine in color. Females have lemon yellow on their noses and caudal fins, and may show faint stripes along their backs. Males are brighter overall with pink tails and red edging to their pelvic fins. When displaying they exhibit fantastic stripes along the body of magenta and red. They grow to only 3 inches so a single fish may be kept in an aquarium as small as 60 gallons, but we recommend at least 125 gallons for a group.

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The Blue Face angel has two distinct and equally lovely color forms which changes as it grows. As a juvenile it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the stripes fade away and each body scale becomes edged in pale yellow creating a latticework effect. Its face remains blue with a distinct bright yellow mask over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The blue face angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Chrysurus angel is also known as the gold-tail or ear-spot angelfish and is a rare import. When young it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body and a transparent tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; its face takes on an intense rusty coloration with blue stripes. Its tail becomes bright yellow, and a distinctive ring forms behind the eye which is ringed in yellow. The white body stripes remain wide and bright and the blue stripes may fade away or become yellowish. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Chrysurus angel can grow to be approximately 13 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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As the ocean's most spectacular ambush predators, it is no wonder lionfish are so popular. Their huge fins are used to confuse and herd smaller animals so the lionfish can swallow them whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving lionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. If added at the same time, and if of similar size, several lionfish may be kept together as long as there is at least one private refuge in the rocks for each fish. Most species are imported from Bali.The tips of the lionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the lionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Lionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.The Radiata lionfish is spectacular fish with long white rays on its otherwise dark pectoral fins, which lack any spots or stripes. Its body is covered in wide earthy brown to rust red bands, each one outlined in bright white. Its face is red with a dark stripe running through each eye and extending into long 'horns'. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 9.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.

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The Yasha Ray goby is boldly colored, but quite shy by nature. Blood red spots and stripes cover its stark white body. Its large eyes are bright orange and its fins bright yellow. Its first dorsal fin is a huge spike that may be as tall as the fish is long. Its fin is bright white with a black eyespot and makes this fish an incredible display in a peaceful aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The Yasha Ray goby may be quite shy when initially introduced; a pistol shrimp companion and similarly peaceful tank mates will help it become bolder in time. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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The Red Stripe tilefish is a striking animal with an intense scarlet stripe running from the tip of its nose, through its eye and along its entire body, ending in a deep ruby flag on its tail. Contrasting this with its snowy white body and you have a fish unlike any other. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger. Tilefish are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened they may quickly dive under the sand for cover. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as tilefish are extremely prone to jumping from open top aquaria - even a small hole in the top allows for escape. We find as long as the fish cannot jump out of the aquarium it is not difficult to keep. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Tilefish enjoy the company of similarly friendly fish, including other tilefish. They are safe with coral and most invertebrates with the exception of small shrimp.Tilefish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the tilefish has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The bold and beautiful Whipfin fairy has a unique look compared to other fairy wrasses. Its scarlet body is surrounded by broad, lemon yellow fins. Its dorsal fin has a single trailing spike in the middle, and its pelvic fins are also quite long. Its belly is snowy white, and its tail decorated in sapphire blue speckles. Females are bright red with a dark eyespot near the base of the tail, and numerous fine stripes over their faces dissipating into bright speckles over their bodies. It is very aggressive with other fairy wrasses; it grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The amazing Rhomboid, or Golden fairy wrasse, is a spectacular fish with glittering scales of precious gold and lavender and bright amber eyes. Males have deep purple heads with intricate scrawling and, as the name implies, pointed rhomboid shaped tails. Some specimens develop into super males whose scales shimmer with even more golden hue. Females are peach colored with dark scrawling on their faces. It is normally very peaceful towards all other fish. It is rarely imported from the Marshall Islands, near Hawaii. It grows up to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The Sunrise dottyback is a bright and cheery fish. Its body is a dark lavender fading to snow white on its belly. An electric yellow stripe runs from its nose all the way along its back to its tail, like the first rays of morning sunlight peeking over the horizon. The Sunrise dottyback grows to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.An uncommon import, but a spectacular fish indeed, the sunshine chromis has a blueish body that may shimmer purple under the light. Its back is painted a deep opaque yellow and its belly is white. The area above the eye may shine especially bright blue. It is a deep water species which typically lives off steep seaward reef slopes. Grows up to 6.5 Inches.

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Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Midas blenny is a popular fish for many reasons. First is its beautiful coloration- it is a lovely olive green to yellow all over, with a light dusting of blue on its face and bright blue eyes. A few yellow stripes extend from the eyes and its tail develops pointed ends. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 6 inches.The second quality which makes Midas blennies popular is that they spend a lot of their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. Their body makes undulating motions as they swim and hover in the water which makes a lovely display. They will choose at least one safe area in the rockwork where they will dart to if they feel insecure. They are reef safe and easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 50 gallons or larger. The Midas blenny is territorial and may show aggression towards similar fish such as dart gobies and other blennies.

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The Pinnate batfish is a large and impressive fish with huge fins. As a juvenile the fins are much larger than its body and it is taller than it is long. It is deep velvety black and completely outlined in an intense fiery red-orange, granting it the common name red-rimmed batfish. In nature it lives on the reefs and as an immature fish would normally be at risk from predation, however its coloration mimics a toxic flatworm which other fish would definitely not want to eat. If the young Pinnate batfish feels threatened it may lay down against the rocks or glass, furthering its disguise.As it matures it gradually grows into its fins. A vertical silver band develops on the fish's body and gradually expands to cover the entire fish. Darker ashy stripes pass over the fish's eye, shoulder and rear body. Lemony yellow appears on the pectoral and rear fins and tail. Males and females are visually identical.Batfish are large and elegant fish with very high fins, therefore they should only be housed in large, deep aquaria to give them enough room to swim comfortably. The Longfin batfish can grow to be up to 20 inches long and we recommend an aquarium of at least 220 gallons and 30 inches deep. It is prone to being nipped on by other fish, so aggressive tank mates should be avoided at all costs. Batfish are omnivores which may nip on many types of corals, anemones, feather dusters and sponges. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that the batfish's fins don't touch the rocks or bottom of the aquarium. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. Size of food morsels should gradually increase as the fish grows. Juveniles should be fed at least three times a day, and adults at least once a day.

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Bass and Basslets make wonderful peaceful community fish and are also coral safe. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for Basslets which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and groups of multiple individuals. There are no differences between males and females. Basslets feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming.They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen meaty foods, and may learn to take dry foods in time. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.Stunning royal purple coats the Blackcap over its entire body, except for its namesake cap of inky black which also runs through its dorsal fin. It is one of the brightest and most exquisite of all the basslets. It is collected occasionally from deep waters of the Caribbean. It is peaceful and invertebrate safe, except for very small shrimp and crabs, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. The Blackcap basslet grows to 4 inches.

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The Scribbled angel is an uncommon and highly sought after fish. Its colors are super saturated bright lemony yellow and sapphire blue. The face and tail are yellow, and a dark blue band covers the eyes. The body is blue, and on the male includes dark winding stripes that flow from the head to the tail, while the female's body is covered in dark polka-dots.The Scribbled angel can grow to be approximately 10 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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A spectacular fish from the Caribbean, the Blue Hamlet is uniquely hued bright cerulean blue all over. Only its eyes and the edging to its caudal fin are dark. It has a large head and humped back. Males and females are identical. It grows to 5 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.Because of its large mouth we don't recommend mixing Hamlets with diminutive fish or crustaceans, especially shrimp, as it may eat them. It is safe with all corals and is friendly with all other fish too large to swallow. Hamlets behave like small peaceful groupers, or large hawkfish; however unlike the hawkfish the hamlet has no trouble swimming. It may choose an area in the rockwork to call its own and may chase other fish away from its territory. It also appreciates plenty of space to swim. It is best to keep only one hamlet per aquarium unless over 100 gallons can be devoted to each hamlet and they are added at the same time.Hamlets are carnivorous and should be fed high quality meaty items such as Mysis, chopped krill, clams, silver sides and other high quality meaty items, preferably more than once a day. They usually learn to accept dry foods and are quite hardy and easy to keep.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The amazing Rhomboid, or Golden fairy wrasse, is a spectacular fish with glittering scales of precious gold and lavender and bright amber eyes. Males have deep purple heads with intricate scrawling and, as the name implies, pointed rhomboid shaped tails. Some specimens develop into super males whose scales shimmer with even more golden hue. Females are peach colored with dark scrawling on their faces. It is normally very peaceful towards all other fish. It is rarely imported from the Marshall Islands, near Hawaii. It grows up to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The spectacular Red Margin fairy is named for the broad scarlet edge to its rounded caudal and dorsal fins. The rest of its body is awash in color and pattern; its face is pink to lavender with yellow dots and squiggles. Its flanks may be rose to olive and decorated with countless contrasting speckles. Females are a rose color all over with yellowish fins. It is normally peaceful with other fairy wrasses except its close relatives such as the Lineatus and Rhomboid wrasses. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 70 gallons.

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Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.The Diana's hogfish sports dramatic coloration both as an adult and a juvenile. When young it is a deep scarlet decorated with stark white spots all over and dark eyespots on its fins. When mature it is a glowing pink to peach color with a few white spots on its back and smaller black spots on its fins and posterior. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 10 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.

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The Tiger goby is an inquisitive and entertaining little fish. Its body is milky white, nearly transparent. Nearly twenty thin black pencil-stripes extend vertically down its body. It has a cute flat face and rosy cheeks. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger.Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The Sankey dottyback is a bold beauty with high contrast markings and a long flowing tail. Over its snowy white body are three inky black stripes running to its tail; one along its forehead, one from its eye and the other from its chin. The lower two stripes come together at the end of its pin shaped tail. Bright turquoise shines on its eyes and face. In the wild it lives in the Red Sea, however all of our Orchid dottybacks are tank bred. Groups of this fish live together and mimic the appearance of venomous striped eel catfish. This species is one of the least aggressive, and may be kept in groups as long as there are plenty of hiding places and all individuals are added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium. Males and females are identical. The Sankey dottyback grows to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The Indigo dottyback is an exciting hybrid of two different species, the Orchid and Sankey dottybacks. From its Orchid parent it obtains bright coloration, however unlike its parent it is a more sapphire to lavender color. From its Sankey side it receives dark stripes running to its tail, one from its eye and the other from its chin. The unique combination would rarely if ever be found in the wild, but is now available for your aquarium! It maintains the relatively peaceful nature of the Sankey dottyback and is one of the least aggressive dottybacks; it may be kept in groups as long as there are plenty of hiding places and all individuals are added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium. The Indigo dottyback grows to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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This striking variety has white stripes about twice as wide as the standard Ocellaris clownfish. Many fish also have a small chin-strap extending from the head stripe, which resembles a Spartan gladiator helmet. Its rich hue comes from breeding the Wide Bar Gladiator with a Black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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As if touched by an artist's brush, the Mocha Vinci clownfish's stripes are extended in a beautiful way. Each fish is different, with elegant wavy lines gracing its body. Its parents are a Da Vinci and a Black Ocellaris, giving this fish's coloration is a deep, warm hue, and its stripes a beautiful swirl pattern.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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An amazing fish with huge fins which dance in the water with every movement, each Black Ice clownfish has unique striping with eccentric shapes, and deep ochre coloration which darkens with age. This variety was made from a cross between Premium Snowflake and ultra-black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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The Watanabei swallowtail angel has a beautiful silver white body with a black dorsal fin. Females have a black V outline on the tail, black anal fin and black and blue markings above the eyes. Males have black horizontal stripes on the body with hints of yellow.The Watanabei swallowtail angel can grow to be approximately 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Angelfish of the genus Genicanthus are collectively known as swallowtail angelfish. In the wild, they typically live in small groups or harems of one male and several females. In the aquarium they are usually kept singly or in pairs; two males may fight each other. They are typically peaceful with all other fish. As they can be collected from deep water, they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Swallowtail angelfish are planktivores, meaning their diet consists of small floating food items such as shrimp. Sessile invertebrates such as corals are not their natural food item, so they can safely be kept in any sort of reef aquarium. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as Mysis shrimp and chopped krill, and also marine algae and Spirulina. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Majestic angel sports some of the brightest colors of any angelfish, and also remains one of the smallest of its genus. It is also known as the blue girdled angelfish because of the blue markings which extend down its face and posterior across its entire belly. Its back and tail are a bright yellow. Each scale on its sides has a dot of blue in the center. As a juvenile it is deep blue with vertical bands, however they transition while at a small size and most of the individuals we carry already show the adult colors. Males and females are visually identical.The Majestic angel can grow to be up to 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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This striking animal was once only able to be admired in photos and articles about a rare specimen collected from Papua New Guinea. Now you can own one in your own home! The amazing Gold Lightning patterns develop throughout the animal's life, meaning a juvenile fish will change and increase in beauty into adulthood. No two fish are alike, just as lightning never strikes the same place twice.Female Maroon clownfish may grow up to 6.5 Inches, with males much smaller; sometimes the female may be up to six times the size of her mate. They are very aggressive and need an aquarium at least 50 gallons or larger.Maroon clownfish are one of the most belligerent of all the clownfish, and will kill any other clownfish species in their aquarium. They are best kept singly, however if a pair is to be attempted wild pairs are often collected and available together. For tank bred fish, the female should be as big as possible and the male as small as possible and added into the female's tank. This is because all Maroon clownfish want to be the most dominant, and unless there is a clear inequality in size neither fish will back down until one of them is killed. It may be beneficial to have a second host for the male fish to retreat to when his mate is feeling feisty.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species.Best hosts are Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor), Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis), Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica), and Sebae (Heteractis crispa).Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The lovely Exquisite wrasse is most notable for its incredible jade to emerald green body, decorated with glittering blue speckles. Fish from the Pacific have scarlet highlights on the fins, and those from the Indian Ocean on their faces. A black spot at the base of the tail is underlined with a thin electric blue stripe. Females are colored in more subdued warm shades with tiny glittering speckles, and a large eyespot at the base of the tail. It is normally very peaceful; it grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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The Yellow Line goby has a color that shines brightly as if lit from within, and is also known as the Golden Neon goby. It has a thick stripe along its entire body in brilliant metallic gold which creates striking contrast against its black-as-night body and pink chin. Its color scheme makes it easy to spot anywhere in the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and quite active and friendly with other fish. Cleaner gobies are often seen sitting on top of rocks or using their fins to stick onto the aquarium glass. They may be territorial with other cleaner gobies, however they are friendly with all other types of fish. They are reef safe, however many cleaner animals may pick at the spots on Tridacnid clam mantles.Cleaner gobies are known for being easy to keep; they feed eagerly on any type of frozen food such as frozen Mysis shrimp and other high quality meaty items. Marine algae and Spirulina should also be a part of their diet. They typically learn to eat dry food as well; we recommend they be fed more than once a day. Cleaner gobies adapt so well to captivity that they have even been successfully tank bred. When necessary they may change sex to form a pair. We have found however that they may be prone to external parasites such as ICH.Cleaner gobies exhibit helpful maintenance on other fish, removing dead skin and scales and some parasites. Other fish will eagerly open their mouths and gills to allow the cleaner gobies access to their sensitive parts. Often larger fish will change color and lay still so the goby may roam over their bodies and inspect them for blemishes. Most fish appreciate the assistance from these gobies, even larger predators. However, extreme caution should still be used when adding a tiny cleaner goby to an aquarium with large mouthed fish, as sometimes the larger animal will still consume the small goby. We never recommend adding a goby to an aquarium with ambush predators such as anglers/frogfish or leaf fish.

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