Marine Fish

The Flame Back angel a bright and active fish collected from the Caribbean. Its lower half is deep blue, and its entire face and dorsal side is covered in shock of brilliant orangish-yellow, giving it another common name, the Brazilian Fireball angel. It has a blue tail, which differentiates it from the African flame back angel, whose tail is yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Flame Back angel can grow to be up to 3 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Brown Heniochus is a rich chocolate hue with a stark white stripe running diagonally behind its eyes, and another from the tip of its tall feathered dorsal fin to the base of its tail. A dark mask covers its face, and its lower fins are inky black. Its pelvic fins are especially large and rounded. When mature it develops a very unique feature- two curved horns extend over its eyes. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups as long as all individuals are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Heniochus do not show differences between males and females. Heniochus are also known as bannerfish and are related to butterflyfish and angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.Butterflyfish and bannerfish may eat anemones, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The fish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is lots of live rock and overhangs to hide under, as plenty of open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed but may be fussy initially. It should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.

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Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Miniatus grouper, or Coral hind, is a brightly colored animal. Its color ranges from bright orange with yellow to vivid red. Specimens collected from Hawaiian waters have brighter colors than their Philippines counterparts. Both are covered from nose to tail in baby blue polka-dots. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 16 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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The Mono is an interesting fish with shimmering silver scales, earning it another name, the Silver Moony or Moon Fish. Its fins are a lovely yellow color, and young fish have pitch black stripes over their face. At nighttime or when stressed it can darken its color quite substantially. Males and females are visually identical. The Mono grows to 10 inches and once fully grown needs an aquarium at least 125 gallons.In the wild Mono live in light brackish water when juvenile and gradually swim into salt water as they grow. Our Monos are acclimated to full salt water conditions, but they could also be kept in a brackish aquarium. The Mono does best when kept in a school, as it may become nervous when alone. The group will establish a pecking order, so to reduce aggression we recommend at least four individuals. They are friendly with other fish and are commonly kept in a mixed school with Scats. Both these fish are attractive and very hardy. Most other peaceful fish make good tankmates, except for very tiny fish which may be seen as food. Small shrimp may also be eaten, but most other animals including coral will typically not be bothered.Monos are omnivorous and will eat any type of food including flakes. Plenty of vegetable matter including marine algae and Spirulina helps to keep them healthy, combined with frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, pellets, and other high quality items. They may also eat vegetables such as spinach or broccoli, and possibly some tender plants or macroalgae.

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Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Black Cap jawfish has bold colorful markings and an inquisitive nature. It wears a black mask over its face, and its creamy colored body is marked by rusty orange stripes. Its rear fins are a bright lemon yellow, and a small black spot is present at the front of its dorsal fin. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Picture wrasse is also known as the Clouded wrasse, and true to its name it is as beautiful as a sky full of moody clouds lit by a colorful sunset. Against a backdrop of stunning turquoise are splotches of contrasting rusty red arranged as two broken stripes along its body. On its face the markings are short lines of brighter orange, and it has a distinctive pink blotch on its belly. Males and females are identical; females may have a larger pink blotch. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Flasher wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. Their small size means they are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp. They do not bother corals or anemones. As they are quite dainty we don't recommend keeping them with other types of wrasses or any large or aggressive species else they will be bullied. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first. Groups with more than one male, even of different species, may be kept in large aquariums if they are added at the same time.Females of most species are nearly identical; males may also be difficult to distinguish except when flashing. Hybrid fish are common and carry traits from both species.Flasher wrasses get their name from the male's behavior of raising his fins and intensifying his coloration far beyond his normal appearance, usually to seduce a female or intimidate rival males or other species. At night time flasher wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Threadfin, or Filamented flasher wrasse is an increasable fish; males have several extended dorsal fin rays which may be as tall as his body, and impressive lyre shaped tails. When flashing his body becomes intense magenta to scarlet with fine sapphire stripes. His dorsal fin changes to become yellow over his head, then scarlet on top and turquoise near his back. At rest he is a bright tangerine with deep red stripes and fins. Females have similar colors to the male at rest, and have rounded fins. This species is very similar to the Blue flasher. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish, larger for a group.

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Pygmy gobies are entertaining additions perfect for small aquaria. There are many species available; most are bright ruby red, and each species has a unique pattern of stripes or spots. Some species perch on top of rocks, some hover just over the bottom, and some swim upside down preferring overhanging decor. Males and females are visually identical. Most species grow approximately 1 inche. It is not unheard of for them to breed in home aquaria. As long as the aquarium has plenty of rockwork and coral many Pygmy gobies can be kept together. Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Assessors are fascinating fish with an amusing habit of swimming upside down. They are often found living under overhangs, but once established in a peaceful aquarium will swim in the open water and become quite personable. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be avoided. Assessors are safe with corals and all other reef inhabitants. They are peaceful with all other fish and go well with even very shy fish such as jawfish, pipefish and seahorses.Assessors are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp and high quality pellets. It is preferable to feed two to three times a dayThe Yellow Assessor is a bright lemon color with stunning emerald edges to its scales and striking orange highlights on its long fins. Males and females are identical; however males may grow slightly larger. It grows to 2 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. It is usually found singly, however if the aquarium is large enough a group may be added together at the same time. We recommend at least 30 gallons per assessor.

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An unmistakably elongated snout gives the Longnose butterfly instant appeal. Its face is dark on top and white on its chin, and its entire body is solid lemon yellow. A single black spot is on its anal fin, just under the base of its tail. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.The Longnose butterfly is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is aggressive towards its own kind but usually gets along well with other butterflyfish as long as they are all added at the same time. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. This species has the amusing habit of occasionally swimming upside down. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is usually coral safe; however caution should be exercised if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may nip on corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed, but has a very small mouth. It should be offered a wide variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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A bizarre and beautiful addition for a larger aquarium, the Lookdown certainly is unique. Its flattened body is so thin it is nearly impossible to believe. Its scales shine silver so brightly they are mirror-like. Its mouth is set low on its flat face, giving it a permanent grimace. Its dorsal, pectoral and anal fins are elongated and scythe shaped. Young fish have a few stripes along their back. The Lookdown may grow up to 18 inches, and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons for a single individual, larger for a school.The Lookdown is a peaceful fish which eagerly schools with its own kind. It prefers an aquarium with plenty of free swimming space and open sandy bottom. Good tank mates include batfish, rays, gurnards, scorpion fish, leaf fish, jawfish, sleeper gobies and tilefish. They do not commonly eat other fish, however very small tank mates are best avoided. Decor such as mangroves, gorgonians and sea grasses are best used at the aquariums ends, and rockwork kept to a minimum or not used at all. Lookdown are carnivores and should be fed a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood enriched with vitamins and Spirulina. Juveniles should be fed at least three times a day, and adults at least once a day.They may be prone to parasites such as ich, but are otherwise hardy and easy to keep.

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The Bella sleeper goby is a popular choice for aquarists who need a hard working fish to keep their sand clean and prefer a fish less prone to picking up sand and carrying it up into the water column. Its long body is comes in variations of maroon, red and orange. These fish can tend to jump out the aquarium so a lid is recommended. Bella Gobies grow up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Midnight Lightning Longfin Clownfish (Tank Raised)

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Ice Storm Longfin Clownfish (Tank Raised)

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Goatfish are unique and active fish that are friendly with other similar sized fish. They will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, mollusks and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their whisker-like barbels. They may be kept in a group if all individuals are added at the same time.Goatfish are busy scavengers and predators which use their strong barbels to effectively sift sand and probe through rockwork to find any scrap of food . This makes them very useful in aquariums with messy tank-mates. They are carnivores and should be fed three times a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood.The Bicolor is one of the smallest and most colorful goatfish. The front of its body is bright ruby red, and the rear half is lemony yellow. Snow white stripes run through its face, and there is a small black dot at the base of its tail. The Bicolor goatfish grows to 10 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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Fang Tooth eels are fish eaters in the wild, and while often combined with other large fish in an aquarium there is always risk that the eel may consume them. This most often happens at night or if the other fish is injured or sick. Crustaceans and other invertebrates may also be consumed. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Use of a feeding stick may be necessary. We never recommend using ones fingers to feed an eel as the eel may become excited and bite, which may lead to infection. Eel bites should be thoroughly washed and disinfected. Eels are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Golden Tail Moray is colored warm shades of rusty orange to dark chocolate, with countless pale dots all over, like stars in the night sky. Towards the fish's tail it becomes more yellow, ending in a bright orangey-yellow like a torch. It is occasionally imported from the Caribbean. The Golden Tail Moray grows to 24 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.We recommend a tight fitting lid for all eel species. They are incredible escape artists, powerful enough to lift themselves out of the water and push on a lid or squeeze through small spaces. Care should also be taken when acclimating so the fish does not escape onto the floor.Their aquarium should provide plenty of secure rockwork- larger species may topple unstable decor or dig under the sand. At least two caves should be provided for each eel, large enough it can fully hide itself when needed. When feeling secure most eels will poke their head out of their cave for the majority of the day. Eels are safe with all corals, sponges and macro algaes, to which they have no interest.Extreme caution should be used if considering adding more than one eel to an aquarium as they may attack one another.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, as well as other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. They may also bully or eat small fish, but are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. When threatened or resting it may dive under the sand, but more commonly sleeps within the rocks.The Possum, or Arrowhead Pygmy wrasse, is a delightful fish hailing from the Philippines. Its body is overall rusty red colored with a large dark eyespot on most of its fins. Large eyes and pouty lips give it instant charm. The White Banded possum has lines radiating from around its eye, one vertical line just behind its pelvic fins, and two near its tail at an angle. It is similar to the Red Tanaka's possum except its stripes are a bit different. Male and female Possum wrasses are identical, grow to 2.5-3 inches and need an aquarium of at least 15 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The aptly named Peacock wrasse is a striking beauty decorated with shining turquoise spots, earning it the name Argus wrasse after the Greek monster Argus, said to possess 100 eyes. An interlocking chain link pattern in stunning magenta covers its entire body and fins. On its face the magenta is arranged as squiggles, with a distinct green trapezoid shape under its eye. On its tail its spots become smaller towards the fin's end, and the top and bottom tips are dark. Juveniles and females are more subtly colored rusty magenta with an eyespot on the dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Formosan Coris is a popular multicolored fish. Females have a bright yellow head with an intense blue stripe behind her eye. Her body is overall dark olive with black polka dots. Males have a brighter body with vertical bands, and a darker face with several blue stripes. Both sexes fins are a brighter orange, and the tail is half scarlet and half white to transparent. Juveniles are an deep tangerine orange with white tiger stripes along its back outlined in thick black and a transparent tail. Young fish are very similar to the Red Coris wrasse but are overall darker. It is also called the Queen coris. It grows to 24 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The gorgeous Threadfin fairy is notable for its long, trailing pelvic fins. Its body may be a rainbow of colors, most notably scarlet and jade. Two distinct thin stripes run along its side in electric blue, a full stripe along its back and a half stripe below. Its fins are decorated in shining sapphire edging and speckles. Males are more brilliantly colored than females. This species is able to stand its ground against other fish, and is moderately aggressive with other fairies. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A rare and exquisite fish, the Crescent, or Black Spot hogfish, makes a spectacular addition. It has thick stripes running from its nose to its tail in alternating intense scarlet red and snowy white. At the base of its tail is a large black spot, and the caudal fin is stark white and edged in red, creating the crescent. A single black eyespot is located on its gill cover. With its active personality and dramatic coloration this fish is an exceptional treasure. The large black spot on its tail helps to differentiate it from the similar Peppermint hogfish. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates. It is less likely than other hogfish to bother invertebrates, and even large shrimp may be safe if they are added before the hogfish. It grows up to 4.5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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The Yellow Stripe Clingfish is a fascinating fish in every aspect. Its dark hazelnut colored body is lit up by electric yellow stripes along its sides and a big bright spot on its caudal fin. Its snout is long and pointed helping it snap up tiny food items. They swim with an interesting undulating motion making it very entertaining to watch. Males and females are visually identical. This uncommon fish grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger.The Clingfish's pelvic fins form a suction disk, and it has a unique ability to flatten its body. These two abilities help it hold on to solid objects while in strong currents. It may find shelter amongst the spines of diadema urchins or branchy corals. It does not harm corals but may nibble on the urchins feet, and sometimes pick on clam mantles. They may even help protect their coral host from parasitic bivalves.Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Ribbon eels are some of the most spectacular eels, but also the most difficult to feed. Initially they may require live food items of small fish and shrimp. Chromis, mollies, damsels, and peppermint shrimp are often used. In time the eel may be weaned onto frozen foods; however, some specimens may refuse all but live foods. We only recommend these eels for very experienced aquarists. Keeping the eel in a small aquarium of at least 30 gallons initially may make feeding easier, and the eel can be moved to a larger aquarium once it has adapted to captivity. Eels should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Use of a feeding stick may be necessary. We never recommend using ones fingers to feed an eel as the eel may become excited and bite, which may lead to infection. Eel bites should be thoroughly washed and disinfected. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Ribbon eel is also known as the leaf nosed moray because of its hilarious oversized nostrils. Its thin body is brightly colored: juveniles are inky black with a lemon yellow dorsal fin. In males the black changes to bright blue, and females are mainly yellow all over. Males grow to 37 inches, females to 51 inche. The Ribbon eel should be kept in an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.We recommend a tight fitting lid for all eel species. They are incredible escape artists, powerful enough to lift themselves out of the water and push on a lid or squeeze through small spaces. Care should also be taken when acclimating so the fish does not escape onto the floor.Their aquarium should provide plenty of secure rockwork- larger species may topple unstable decor or dig under the sand. At least two caves should be provided for each eel, large enough it can fully hide itself when needed. When feeling secure most eels will poke their head out of their cave for the majority of the day. Eels are safe with all corals, sponges and macro algaes, to which they have no interest.Extreme caution should be used if considering adding more than one eel to an aquarium as they may attack one another.

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The stunning Red Sea clownfish has two full stripes running down its body, one behind its eye and another at its midbody. Its body and fins are bright yellowish orange, and the white stripes are edged in black. Juveniles sometimes show a third tail stripe. It is also known as the Two Band clownfish.Clarkii complex clownfish grow up to 5 Inches and need an aquarium at least 30 gallons. The different types of Clarkii complex clownfish include Blue Stripe, Clarkii, Two Band and Three Stripe among others. Species from other complexes in their territory usually causes fighting.Clarkii complex clownfish tend to be quite aggressive, and are best kept singly or in pairs. They may wander quite far from their host anemone to explore their aquarium. Clarkii complex clownfish host easily in nearly any type of anemone, occasionally even in Atlantic species such as Condylactis sp.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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The Gold Flake Maroon clownfish is an impressive animal with intense red color and three amber colored stripes. From these stripes may be dots, blotches or extensions reaching from one stripe to the next. Large females tend to be a darker shade than small males, which can be quite brightly colored. Young fish have white stripes that change color with maturity.Female Maroon clownfish may grow up to 6.5 Inches, with males much smaller; sometimes the female may be up to six times the size of her mate. They are very aggressive and need an aquarium at least 50 gallons or larger.Maroon clownfish are one of the most belligerent of all the clownfish, and will kill any other clownfish species in their aquarium. They are best kept singly, however if a pair is to be attempted wild pairs are often collected and available together. For tank bred fish, the female should be as big as possible and the male as small as possible and added into the female's tank. This is because all Maroon clownfish want to be the most dominant, and unless there is a clear inequality in size neither fish will back down until one of them is killed. It may be beneficial to have a second host for the male fish to retreat to when his mate is feeling feisty.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species.Best hosts are Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor), Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis), Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica), and Sebae (Heteractis crispa).Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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The Blue Fin angel is aptly named, as all its fins are a deep navy blue color. Its face is also dark blue, and the edges of its fins are edged in bright sapphire. Its body has many dark stripes over a deep shimmery gold hue. Males and females are visually identical. The Blue Fin angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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A distinctive black spot in the center of its body distinguishes the Teardrop butterfly from all others. The mark appears as a large eyespot with a single tear running from it. Intense lemon yellow covers this fish's fins, and a dark stripe runs over its face and another through its rear fins. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.This species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept with its own species and with other butterflyfish but all specimens should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. It will benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates with the exception of small crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Six Spined, or Kite butterfly, sports brilliant vertical stripes of shimmering amber over its pure white body. Juveniles show five stripes, while adults lose the rear stripe and display only four. When young the eyespot at the base of its tail is especially dark, while in adults this is overshadowed by the eyespot on its dorsal fin; on mature fish the tip of this fin is also pointed. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.This species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It gets along well with its own kind especially if all specimens are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. It will also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species does not usually nip on corals, however caution should still be used if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may also nibble clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates, except for small shrimp. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is usually easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The lovely Reef butterfly is a shimmering white with sunny yellow across its back and fins. A dark stripe over its eyes, and another at the base of its tail, help to confuse predators who can't distinguish this fish's head from its tail. Its bright color scheme have earned it the name Painted butterfly. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is occasionally imported from the Caribbean.This species is normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. If it is to be kept with other butterflyfish they should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on. This species may ignore corals if well fed, however caution should be used if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may nip on many types of corals including LPS, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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Glorious sulphur yellow coats the Raffle's butterfly from nose to tail, brighter than a brand-new highlighter marker. Each scale is outlined in deeper butterscotch, creating a latticework effect. As if that weren't enough, across its eyes, dorsal fin and caudal fin are inky black bands creating amazing contrast. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is hardy and normally quite peaceful; it should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It may be kept singly or in pairs, and gets along well with all other butterfly species; all specimens should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The epitome of grace and beauty, the spectacular Burgess butterfly makes a striking center piece. Cutting across its stark white body are three inky black stripes, each one enlarging towards its tail. It grows up to 5.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.The Burgess butterfly is a rare treasure from deep water, and thus appreciates a dimly lit aquarium, at least initially. This species is normally quite peaceful and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept in pairs or groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many corals especially LPS, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. It is sometimes safe with soft corals such as mushrooms and colt, or SPS, however caution should still be exercised if attempting it in a reef aquarium. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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An incredibly lovely fish with striking black markings over stark white body; lines over its flanks come together to create a V pointing towards its head. Thick onyx marks its eye and tail fin, and it is bordered all around by a captivating peach to yellow color. Young fish have a bright yellow tail and a thick black stripe running over the rear third of their bodies. It is often called the Acropora butterfly as in the wild its natural diet consists of small polyp stony corals. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. This species is normally only imported upon request. Please contact our staff and we will be happy to place an order for you.The Chevron butterflyfish can be quite aggressive towards its own species; If several are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it.This species is known to consume corals, especially Acropora, and possibly also clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not usually bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is difficult to feed and should be offered variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.

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Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Black triggerfish is an elegant beauty with velvety black to dark chocolate scales. Its chin is often caramel colored, and bright blue squiggles extend from its eyes. Two distinctive stark white stripes highlight the base of its dorsal and anal fins. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 14 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.

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The Fowleri tang is an incredible beauty whose body is awash in lively colors. Its body is a creamy color with bright orange along the dorsal fin and over the scalpel, which is a dark lavender contrast. Blueish purple highlights are also generously applied to the fins and face, and it has a distinctive purple arch behind the eye. Males and females are visually identical.The Fowleri tang can grow to be approximately 20 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 360 gallons or larger.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.

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The Black Longnose tang is an absolutely stunning fish which is occasionally imported from the waters around the Christmas Islands. Its entire body is cloaked in solid, deep velvety black, and its scalpel is stark white making it an incredible contrast to the rest of the fish. As it grows its snout becomes elongated, giving it a distinct look from all other tangs. Males and females are visually identical, although males may develop bristle-like scales.The Black Longnose tang can grow to be approximately 9 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons. It is recommended to be the only tang in the aquarium.Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.

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Snappers are some of the best and most colorful fish for the large aquarium. They are usually non-aggressive with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as all crustaceans including mantis shrimp. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They will fight with their own kind but different species may be kept together. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Snappers feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed once a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Blue Lined snapper sports dynamic lemon yellow color everywhere except its silvery belly. Four electric blue stripes run from its eye to its rear body giving it an exciting color scheme. It schools in the wild but is best kept singly in all but the largest of aquariums. Males and females are identical. The Blue Lined snapper grows up to 14 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Polka Dot pufferfish is a beautiful fish typically imported from the Indian Ocean. It is also known as the Guinea Fowl pufferfish. Its body may be dark chocolate to inky black with countless white spots covering every inch. It grows up to 19.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.

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Goatfish are unique and active fish that are friendly with other similar sized fish. They will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, mollusks and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their whisker-like barbels. They may be kept in a group if all individuals are added at the same time.Goatfish are busy scavengers and predators which use their strong barbels to effectively sift sand and probe through rockwork to find any scrap of food . This makes them very useful in aquariums with messy tank-mates. They are carnivores and should be fed three times a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood.Sporting bright lemon yellow color all over, the Yellow goatfish makes a flashy display in the right aquarium. The only part of its body not yellow are its ruby red eyes. The Yellow goatfish grows to 20 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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The handsome Blueface filefish has a bright cobalt blue head and a lemon yellow tail. Its elongated body is a delicate shade of lilac to brushed silver. This tri-colored effect makes a gorgeous addition to a peaceful aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger. Tilefish are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened they may quickly dive under the sand for cover. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as tilefish are extremely prone to jumping from open top aquaria - even a small hole in the top allows for escape. We find as long as the fish cannot jump out of the aquarium it is not difficult to keep. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Tilefish enjoy the company of similarly friendly fish, including other tilefish. They are safe with coral and most invertebrates with the exception of small shrimp.Tilefish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the tilefish has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. A dazzling and uniquely hued beauty, the Purple Head Rainbow wrasse makes an eye-catching centerpiece. Adults are also known as Two Toned wrasse - their front half is dusty navy, changing to lavender on the mid body and finally golden yellow at the tail. Brighter highlights decorate its fins and around its eye, and it has a single eyespot on the front of its dorsal fin. Males and females are identical, and mature fish have exceptionally long pelvic fins. Juveniles are white with four dark stripes along the body, sometimes with a yellow tail. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Warm shades of ruby and tangerine splash over this incredible beauty. The front of its dorsal fin is high, with a trailing ray in the center which can reach to its tail. Its fins shimmer with sapphire speckles when the light hits them just right. Females are bright pink with a black eyespot at the base of their tails. More peaceful than its close relative the Whipfin fairy, however still moderately aggressive to other fairy wrasses. Grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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The Tiger Sleeper goby is a breathtaking beauty from the Indian Ocean. It has several wide bands running from its shoulders to the tip of its large rounded tail. These orange bands are shadowed in onyx black and highlighted in stark white, creating a gorgeous contrast against its creamy colored body. It has an electric blue stripe on each cheek and a dark eyespot on its first dorsal fin. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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The Panda Clown goby is an adorable micro-sized fish perfect for small aquariums. Its large rounded fins are deep velvety black, and its body a contrasting yellow. Often times its cheeks have a rosy hue. We typically receive this fish in a very small size, so appropriately sized food should be available. Baby brine shrimp and Calanus are good first choices. The panda goby will feel safe if provided with plenty of hiding places or Pocillopora coral to hide in. It is also known as the black fin coral goby. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1 inche.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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