Marine Fish

The Orange Stripe goby is a beautiful with a pearly white body decorated with two bright orange stripes running the length of its body and many lighter orange vertical stripes. These vertical stripes intersecting with the horizontals give it another common name, the crosshatch or orange marked goby. It also has an attractive eyespot on its tail. Males and females are visually identical. The Orange Stripe goby does not grow quite as large as other sand sifting gobies, growing to approximately 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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The Decorated goby is aptly named- it is covered in countless intricate spots, as if it were covered in confetti. Against its creamy colored body these spots, which may be deep rusty red to twinkling turquoise, create a fish which is definitely fun to look at. Along its flank are a few larger, bolder dark markings shaped like rectangles which distinguish it from other similar gobies. It is typically imported from the Indian Ocean. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.They are a part time sand sifting fish, helping to keep the sand looking clean and free of debris while also consuming small micro-fauna. They do not typically lift sand to cover rocks or corals.Sand gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping around on the substrate in an entertaining manner. A fine sand bed of at least two inches will help them feel secure.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial to others of the same or similar species, however if two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The beautiful Black Neon dottyback is a hybrid between the Neon dottybck, an intense fiery orange colored fish, and the Springer�s dottyback, an elegant blue and black fish. Their offspring have the best of both traits; a richly hued deep orange body with blue highlights over its face and along its elongated fins and tail. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.This hardy fish is similar to the 3 and 4 stripe damsels, however it has only two stripes and its tail often shimmers a blue color. Also called a humbug damsel. In the wild it may hide amongst Acropora branches, however in the aquarium it will appreciate rock with many hiding places. Grows up to 4 Inches.

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Bass and Basslets make wonderful peaceful community fish and are also coral safe. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for Basslets which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and groups of multiple individuals. There are no differences between males and females. Basslets feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming.They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen meaty foods, and may learn to take dry foods in time. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.No other fish on the reef can compare to the radiant colors of the Red Candy basslet. Its colors are so saturated they nearly jump off the fish! Fiery tangerine striped with marvelous magenta paints this fish from its nose to the end of its tail. Two jet black spots on its tail, one on its dorsal fin, and its black pupil are surrounded by sapphire blue to bright violet. It can be differentiated from similar basslets by having no black spot on its anal fin. Because of the great depths in which it lives it is rarely collected. It is peaceful and invertebrate safe, except for very small shrimp and crabs, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is relatively hardy once established, however may suffer from swim bladder damage and sensitivity to medications. The Red Candy basslet grows to 2.5 inches.

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Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Arguably one of the most beautiful anthias, the Purple Queen is indeed spectacular, but unfortunately can be very difficult to acclimate to aquarium foods. It is recommended only for the experienced and dedicated aquarist who can ensure they receive enough nourishment. It should be fed at least four times a day. Lower light levels aid in acclimation, as does an established group of peaceful anthias who are feeding well on prepared foods. Aggressive tank mates should be strictly avoided. Well oxygenated, high flow conditions with plenty of hiding places and open room to swim help the Purple Queen feel at home.Very few fish sport the super saturated coloration of the Purple Queen. Stunning royal purple coats the fish from its upturned nose to its trailing tail. A yellowish streak extends from its eyes, along its back and the out edges of its caudal fin. Males develop a more pointed snout and their dorsal fin shines red. It is also known as the Amethyst or Sailfin anthias. It grows up to 7 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 75 gallons for a single fish and larger for a group.

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Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The High Fin Perchlet may easily be mistaken for a hawkfish; unlike other anthias it prefers to sit on top of rocks or coral and survey its surroundings quietly. It has a stout body in a creamy color, covered in deep pink to red pixilated squares. Its dorsal fin has a yellow spike, and its green eyes watch alertly for food and predators. It is also known as the Geometric Hawkfish. It is a perfect candidate for smaller aquariums, growing to 2 inches; however it may bully smaller fish and shrimp. We recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons.

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- The Six Bar angel is a large and impressive fish sporting bright colors and patterns. Its body is a creamy hue with five dark vertical stripes, and one white stripe behind the eye contrasting beautifully with its dark face. Its body and tail are covered in bright blue polka-dots, and the edges of its fins are also marked with blue. Males and females are visually identical.The Six Bar angel can grow to be up to 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The True Personifer angel is a very rare and highly sought after fish. Its body is a pure deep black, with bright yellow accents on the chest, pectoral and pelvic fins. Its forehead is yellow, changing to white as it extends down to encircle the face, which is blueish to purple. Its tail is pure, lemony yellow with a black stripe through it, which distinguishes it from the false Personifer angel. Mature males have many polkadots on their faces, whereas females do not.The Personifer angel can grow to be approximately 14 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.Named for the broad dark saddles draped across its back, the handsome Six Bar wrasse makes a great addition to an aquarium with other aggressive fish. It has an aqua colored body with a pale belly and gorgeous hot pink stripes around its eye like the petals of a Hawaiian flower. Males and females are identical; terminal males have the brightest colors. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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The Two Line sleeper goby is aptly named- two dark red stripes extend from its nose all the way to its tail. Against its creamy colored body this makes for an eye-catching contrast. Combine that with a large black spot on its first dorsal fin and this handsome fish looks good in almost any aquarium. The two prominent lines along its body have also earned it the name Railway goby. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Blue Line grouper is covered in electric blue squiggles all over its body, dissipating into polka-dots on its face. Against its dark, earthy colored body this makes it a stunning creature. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 13 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.

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Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Lyre Tail grouper is an awesome fish, and as its name suggests mature fish have a strongly pointed tail. All its fins have an attractive bright yellow edge. It is also called the Caramel cod after its warm, rusty colored body. Countless white polka-dots cover it from nose to tail, and a thick white stripe runs down its nose. Juveniles are creamy rose colored with a white belly and a dark stripe down their middle, ending in an eyespot at the tail. Its eyes are bright red, and its spots may shimmer lavender under the right light. It is one of the most outgoing of all the groupers, spending most of its time out in the open. It grows to 32 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.

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Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.The Starry rabbitfish is a stunning fish with a striking pattern of tiny pitch black spots over a stark white body. The spots are very small and numerous, and cover the fish from the tip of its nose through its tail creating a visual masterpiece. They have white edging to their rear fins and tail; specimens from the Red Sea have yellow edging. Sometimes a charcoal colored blotch may be visible above its pectoral fins, just behind the gill cover. This fish is known to eat Bryopsis, turf and hair algae. The Starry foxface grows to 14 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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A fantastic fish for the collector of the rare and wonderful, the Velvetfish, or Gumdrop Coral Croucher, makes a lovely addition to the peaceful aquarium. It resembles a colorful clown goby, however it is actually more closely related to scorpionfish. Its stocky body is delicate rosy pink all over with bright bubblegum colored polka dots sprinkled everywhere. Males and females are identical. The Velvetfish grows to 2.5 inches and should be kept in an aquarium at least 10 gallons.Velvetfish are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day perched on rocks and coral. In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, usually Pocillopora and Stylophora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a Velvetfish may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its branches.The Velvetfish should never be touched as it contains a toxin that can cause painful wounds similar to a bee sting. Great care should be taken when handling the Velvetfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish. Predatory fish may or may not recognize the Velvetfish as venomous, so caution should be used when combining the Velvetfish with larger fish. It is peaceful towards all other fish but may fight with its own kind unless a pair is maintained. Velvetfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Live food may be necessary at first, and the use of a feeding tube may be useful in making sure the Velvetfish gets enough to eat.

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Anyone who has seen the Purple tilefish will never forget its beauty. Intense magenta over its entire body transitions to a blueberry shade over its back and head, and scarlet red on its tail. Its eye is a brilliant sapphire. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Tilefish are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened they may quickly dive under the sand for cover. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as tilefish are extremely prone to jumping from open top aquaria - even a small hole in the top allows for escape. We find as long as the fish cannot jump out of the aquarium it is not difficult to keep. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Tilefish enjoy the company of similarly friendly fish, including other tilefish. They are safe with coral and most invertebrates with the exception of small shrimp.Tilefish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the tilefish has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.

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The Leopard seahorse is a beautiful and fascinating animal. Its coloration may be bright red, orange or yellow, often with dark stripes along its back and tail. It has a rather smooth appearance, lacking the spiny look that many seahorses have. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.

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The Leopard seahorse is a beautiful and fascinating animal. Its coloration may be bright red, orange or yellow, often with dark stripes along its back and tail. It has a rather smooth appearance, lacking the spiny look that many seahorses have. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.

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The Leopard seahorse is a beautiful and fascinating animal. Its coloration may be bright red or yellow, often with dark stripes along its back and tail. It has a rather smooth appearance, lacking the spiny look that many seahorses have. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.

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The Kelloggi seahorse is also known as the Great seahorse because of its rather large size. Colors range from bright yellow to jet black. It has a rather smooth appearance, lacking the spiny look that many seahorses have. In the wild it is found in deeper waters than most seahorses, so does not appreciate intense lighting. It also does not do well at high temperatures, and if possible its aquarium should be kept at a maximum 68 degrees Fahrenheit. It can grow up to 11 inche; a tall aquarium of at least 50 gallons is recommended. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.

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The charming Kuda seahorse has an adorable stocky body and a clean silhouette. It is typically available in a deep black color, sometimes with a modest amount of striping or spotting. Rarely some individuals may be a dusky yellow color. It grows up to 6 inches - we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.

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Scorpionfish are fascinating ambush predators whose texture and coloration mimics a piece of the sea floor: some algae, sponge, coral or crinoid. They even move their bodies in waving motions as if they were debris being blown in the current. Sometimes they drift so far to the side they nearly fall over in a hilarious attempt to be unseen. Smaller animals will be swallowed whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving scorpionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. Fish that graze on the rockwork may mistake the scorpionfish's body for algae and pick on them. scorpionfish don't fight with their own kind, however they may stress each other out, and for this reason if they are to be kept together the aquarium must be sufficiently large that they can be out of eyesight of one another. Occasionally the scorpionfish may shed its skin in order to clean itself.The tips of the scorpionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the scorpionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Scorpionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.There is nothing in the ocean quite like the Colored Scorpionfish. Its eyes sit at the top of its head, and its large mouth curves upwards giving it hilarious duck lips. Its huge dorsal fin is held erect, and it may have any sort of bizarre tassels, warts, cirri, stripes or spots, giving it a unique appearance sure to start a conversation. Its coloration is usually bright shades of red with some mottling to add extra interest. The Colored Scorpionfish grows up to 9 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.The Colored Scorpionfish is a special order item; please contact our staff and we will be happy to prepare your order.

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Scorpionfish are fascinating ambush predators whose texture and coloration mimics a piece of the sea floor: some algae, sponge, coral or crinoid. They even move their bodies in waving motions as if they were debris being blown in the current. Sometimes they drift so far to the side they nearly fall over in a hilarious attempt to be unseen. Smaller animals will be swallowed whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving scorpionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. Fish that graze on the rockwork may mistake the scorpionfish's body for algae and pick on them. scorpionfish don't fight with their own kind, however they may stress each other out, and for this reason if they are to be kept together the aquarium must be sufficiently large that they can be out of eyesight of one another. Occasionally the scorpionfish may shed its skin in order to clean itself.The tips of the scorpionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the scorpionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Scorpionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.There is nothing in the ocean quite like the Goose Scorpionfish. Its eyes sit at the top of its head, and its large mouth curves upwards giving it hilarious duck lips. Its huge dorsal fin is held erect, and it may have any sort of bizarre tassels, warts, cirri, stripes or spots, giving it a unique appearance sure to start a conversation. Its coloration is usually earthy shades of chocolate and coffee. The Goose Scorpionfish grows up to 9 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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The Scat is a beautiful fish with dark spots or stripes over its shimmery body. Its fins are highlighted with red, and it develops a high back when mature. Males and females are visually identical. The Scat grows to 12 inches and once fully grown needs an aquarium at least 150 gallons.In the wild Scats live in light brackish water when juvenile and gradually swim into salt water as they grow. Our Scats are acclimated to full salt water conditions, but they could also be kept in a brackish aquarium. The Scat does best when kept in a school. The group will establish a pecking order, so to reduce aggression we recommend at least four individuals.They are friendly with other fish and are commonly kept in a mixed school with Monos. Both these fish are attractive and very hardy. Most other peaceful fish make good tankmates, except for very tiny fish which may be seen as food. Small invertebrates such as shrimp may be eaten, and it may also nibble coral. We recommend caution when handling the Scat in a net because its spines are mildly venomous and may cause a painful sting.Scats are omnivorous and will eat any type of food including flakes. Plenty of vegetable matter including marine algae and Spirulina helps to keep them healthy, combined with dry food and occasional meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp and enriched brine shrimp. They may also eat vegetables such as spinach or broccoli, and as well as plants and macroalgae. They are known to graze on nuisance algae, including hair algae, in the aquarium.

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The Scat is a beautiful fish with dark spots or stripes over its shimmery body. Its fins are highlighted with red, and it develops a high back when mature. Males and females are visually identical. The Scat grows to 12 inches and once fully grown needs an aquarium at least 150 gallons.In the wild Scats live in light brackish water when juvenile and gradually swim into salt water as they grow. Our Scats are acclimated to full salt water conditions, but they could also be kept in a brackish aquarium. The Scat does best when kept in a school. The group will establish a pecking order, so to reduce aggression we recommend at least four individuals.They are friendly with other fish and are commonly kept in a mixed school with Monos. Both these fish are attractive and very hardy. Most other peaceful fish make good tankmates, except for very tiny fish which may be seen as food. Small invertebrates such as shrimp may be eaten, and it may also nibble coral. We recommend caution when handling the Scat in a net because its spines are mildly venomous and may cause a painful sting.Scats are omnivorous and will eat any type of food including flakes. Plenty of vegetable matter including marine algae and Spirulina helps to keep them healthy, combined with dry food and occasional meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp and enriched brine shrimp. They may also eat vegetables such as spinach or broccoli, and as well as plants and macroalgae. They are known to graze on nuisance algae, including hair algae, in the aquarium.

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The Remora, or Sharksucker, is a unique fish with a suction cup atop its head which allows it to hitch a ride with large fish, sharks, rays, and turtles. The remora adds a beautiful addition to a large aquarium. Its elongated body is silvery with a dark black stripe running along its flank and another along its dorsal side. All its fins are black, and its tail is edged in white. Males and females are identical. The Remora can grow to 43 inches and should be housed in an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.Remora may eat small or slender bodied fish and crustaceans. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails; however they may knock over loose decor with their strong tails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers.Remora are carnivores and should be fed at least once a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are greedy feeders and may learn to take dry foods as well.The Remora is a special order item; please contact our staff and we will be happy to prepare your order.

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Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Yellow Spot Fin jawfish is an uncommon beauty. Its body is all over metallic shades of brushed silver, with a yellow mask over its eyes. Males and females are similar, however males may have a more prominent black spot on their dorsal fin, blue freckles on their face and dark tail. Females may be overall a more yellow color. It grows to 3 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons

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Leaf fish are fascinating ambush predators whose texture and coloration mimics a dead leaf fallen to the sea floor. They even move their bodies in waving motions as if they were being blown in the current. Sometimes they drift so far to the side they nearly fall over in a hilarious attempt to be unseen. Smaller animals will be swallowed whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving leaf fish may become a target for aggressive fish. Fish that graze on the rockwork may mistake the leaf fish's body for algae and pick on them. Leaf fish don't fight with their own kind, however they may stress each other out, and for this reason if they are to be kept together the aquarium must be sufficiently large that they can be out of eyesight of one another. Occasionally the leaf fish may shed its skin in order to clean itself.The tips of the leaf fish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the leaf fish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Leaf fish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.The Colored leaf fish sports a large dorsal fin held erect to mimic fallen vegetation. It has a large head and uses its fins to walk along the rockwork and substrate rather than swimming. It may be shades of delicate pink to rusty red or orange, with mottled darker markings in earthy shades of coffee to jet black, with or without white highlights. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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The Fusilier makes a shining addition to the right aquarium. Its shimmering scales are a bright tuna blue on its back and silver on its belly. An electric yellow stripe runs from above its eye through to the top lobe of its sharply forked caudal fin. Bright blue streaks highlight both above and below the yellow stripe. Jet black marks on its tail and the base of its pectoral fins make impressive contrast. When sleeping or stressed it takes on a rusty red to salmon pink color. Males and females are identical. The Blue and Gold Fusilier grows to 12 inches. Single individuals may be kept in aquariums of at least 100 gallons. It forms a tight school with its own kind and sometimes other species of Fusilier as well, and we recommend at least 150 gallons or larger for a group.The Fusilier is technically a snapper, however in the aquarium it behaves more like an anthias. It feeds on floating plankton and proves easy to feed on any type of frozen meaty morsels such as Mysis, chopped krill, and other high quality meaty foods as well as dry pellets two to three times a day. Hardy and disease resistant, the Fusilier makes a great tank mate with other peaceful fish. They may shy away from much larger or aggressive tank mates. It has a large mouth and may consume small or slender fish such as gobies and blennies, and crustaceans, especially shrimp. Cleaner shrimp are usually left alone as long as they are added first. It may hide amongst the rockwork when newly introduced but once it settles in it will appreciate plenty of open swimming space.

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The Jacknife Drumfish is a fascinating and unique fish from the Caribbean. Its relatively small body is dwarfed by its large head and huge spiked dorsal fin. Combined with its long tail this gives it a triangular shape. Its creamy white body is accented by three jet black stripes; one stripe runs through its eye, one through its gill covers and pelvic fins, and the third from the tip of its dorsal fin across its body and extending all the way through the tail. It swims with an elegance and grace all its own. Males and females are identical. The Jacknife Drumfish grows to 10 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.The Jacknife Drumfish is a carnivore and should be fed at least three times a day a high quality diet of Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and silversides and other meaty items. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. It may also consume fire and bristle worms, crustaceans, and small fish. Lower light levels aid in initial acclimation. Aggressive tank mates should be strictly avoided. Plenty of hiding places and open room to swim help the Jacknife Drumfish feel at home. Several specimens may be kept together in a sufficiently large aquarium if all are added at the same time.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.A wide variety of color schemes are possible with the Seagrass wrasse; most specimens we receive are shades of jade to lime, though they may be rusty red to chocolate, with a broken dark stripe down their sides and lighter speckles sprinkled randomly overtop. It is also known as the Emerald or Green Dragon wrasse. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The rare and spectacular Red Head wrasse makes a bold impression even in dimly lit tanks. Its colors are extremely saturated; males have a blazing cardinal red head and an emerald green body with two sapphire blue lines on the tail. Females are equally beautiful with electric orange bodies with numerous green stripes, two eyespots on the rear dorsal fin and one more at the base of the tail. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Once seen, the Radiant wrasse cannot be forgotten! Its colors are more saturated than almost any other fish. A wide stripe along its body is deep maroon and emits an infrared crimson to royal purple all around. Along its back and face is an electric yellow so bright it nearly glows. Two turquoise stripes underlined with magenta run under its eye. Males and females are identical; juveniles have more subtle coloration. The Radiant wrasse is one of the most peaceful of the Halichores species, and also one of the most difficult to keep. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Pink Pencil wrasse is a female fish, which can be kept alone or in groups with other females and no more than one male. She is typically a bright salmon to delicate rose color with a lighter belly and a golden yellow eye. If kept alone or with other females, the dominant fish may transition into a male, who is typically bright emerald green with stripes of many contrasting colors. Pencil wrasses grow up to 4.5 inches and need an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The incredible Red Leopard wrasse is a female fish, sometimes called the Guinea Fowl or Blackspotted wrasse. Its body is a fiery red which shimmers turquoise in the light. Large black blotches in somewhat random shapes cover its body, and the edges of its fins may be brighter yellowish to orange. Its mate is a deep rusty orange, and each scale is dotted with an electric blue spot which turn into squiggles on his face. The blue is outlined in a deeper navy to black creating incredible contrast. A single spot near its pectoral fin is black and yellow. Males grow to 6 inches however females are smaller; it needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Also known as the Fine Spotted, or Port Vila fairy wrasse, this exceptional beauty has a galaxy of tiny blue stars scattered over its deep maroon body. A dark stripe runs directly over its white belly, and its fins are yellowish with scattered blue dots. Its pelvic fins are long and trailing. Males are more brilliantly colored than females, which have a dark eyespot at the base of the tail. This species is able to stand its ground against other fish, and is usually imported from Fiji. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Also known as the Fine Spotted, or Port Vila fairy wrasse, this exceptional beauty has a galaxy of tiny blue stars scattered over its deep maroon body. A dark stripe runs directly over its white belly, and its fins are yellowish with scattered blue dots. Its pelvic fins are long and trailing. Males are more brilliantly colored than females, which have a dark eyespot at the base of the tail. This species is able to stand its ground against other fish, and is usually imported from Fiji. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Dazzling Plyei wrasse is an exceptional beauty with highly exaggerated trailing pelvic fins. There are two color morphs; our specimens typically have a bright rose colored body with an electric blue stripe from its eye and along its back, the same color also scribbled over its fins. It draws attention to its rounded dorsal fin with a large dark spot in the middle; its tail is also edged in black highlighted with lavender. Females are a hot pink to rose color all over with a pale belly and long pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Dazzling Plyei wrasse is an exceptional beauty with highly exaggerated trailing pelvic fins. There are two color morphs; our specimens typically have a bright rose colored body with an electric blue stripe from its eye and along its back, the same color also scribbled over its fins. It draws attention to its rounded dorsal fin with a large dark spot in the middle; its tail is also edged in black highlighted with lavender. Females are a hot pink to rose color all over with a pale belly and long pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The Naoko's fairy wrasse is gifted with both incredible coloration and finnage. Super saturated scarlet drapes across its back to its snowy white belly. A broad stripe of electric yellow runs from its gill covers to its tail. Its fins are inky black, with its pelvic fins being especially large and impressive, and its dorsal fin a high sail shape. When displaying the male takes on a shimmering white over his fins. Females are pink with bright stripes along their sides with a small eyespot at the base of the tail, white bellies and rounded pelvic fins. It can be quite aggressive with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The rare and spectacular Hooded fairy wrasse makes an incredible show piece animal. Males have a distinctive bright scarlet hood over their face and shoulders. Their bodies and fins are awash in vibrant colors which may vary depending on its origins. Some fish have their dorsal and caudal fins edged in velvety black and lavender, while others have red dorsal and caudal fin and golden flanks. Females are rose to tangerine with yellow bellies. Once it establishes a territory in the aquarium it may become aggressive towards newly introduced fairy wrasses, but this is usually harmless display. It grows to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The rare and spectacular Hooded fairy wrasse makes an incredible show piece animal. Males have a distinctive bright scarlet hood over their face and shoulders. Their bodies and fins are awash in vibrant colors which may vary depending on its origins. Some fish have their dorsal and caudal fins edged in velvety black and lavender, while others have red dorsal and caudal fin and golden flanks. Females are rose to tangerine with yellow bellies. Once it establishes a territory in the aquarium it may become aggressive towards newly introduced fairy wrasses, but this is usually harmless display. It grows to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Blue Throat trigger is a popular fish with distinctive coloration differences between males and females. Males sport the distinctive bright blue throat as well as lemon yellow edges to their fins. Females have rusty red edging to their fins. Specimens from all locations have similar patterns, but those from Hawaii have the brightest colors. Both sexes have a steely colored body and a bright spot on each scale. It is usually safe with most invertebrates, with the exception of shrimp. It grows up to 9 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Pairs or harems may be added together to large aquariums.

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