Marine Fish

The Lemon Peel Cross angel is a very rare and special fish. It is sometimes possible that a lemon peel angel may breed with a similar species, usually a Half Black angel. The result is a yellow fish with a combination of the two parents� patterns, usually some blue spots on the face and a dark tail. Males and females are visually identical.The Lemon Peel angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Bellus swallowtail angel has a beautiful pearly white body with many blue, yellow and black markings. The female has a bright sapphire blue patch on her side, and several thick stripes along her body, tail and face. The dorsal, pectoral and anal fins have patches of yellow. The male in contrast has yellow stripes along his body which turn black at the tail. The face has stripes which shift from blue to black to fiery orange. The Bellus swallowtail angel can grow to be approximately 7 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Angelfish of the genus Genicanthus are collectively known as swallowtail angelfish. In the wild, they typically live in small groups or harems of one male and several females. In the aquarium they are usually kept singly or in pairs; two males may fight each other. They are typically peaceful with all other fish. As they can be collected from deep water, they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Swallowtail angelfish are planktivores, meaning their diet consists of small floating food items such as shrimp. Sessile invertebrates such as corals are not their natural food item, so they can safely be kept in any sort of reef aquarium. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as Mysis shrimp and chopped krill, and also marine algae and Spirulina. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Yellow Dotted butterfly is also called the Moon Coralfish- It is named after Selene, the Greek goddess of the moon. Its large round shape is pearly white and shimmers like a celestial body. A crescent of pure black shadows its eyes and also its rear body creating a broken circle. Its fins and tail are bright sunny yellow, and tiny speckles arranged in sweeping lines radiating out of its eyes decorate its flanks. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.This uncommon species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept with its own kind or other butterflyfish as long as all specimens are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species can be difficult to feed and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.

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The alluring Indian Ocean Vagabond butterfly has a delightful criss-cross pattern overtop its shimmering white body and an inky black stripe through its eyes. Its tail is bright lemon yellow with a black stripe. It can be differentiated from the similar Philippines Vagabond by the dark crescent shadowing its rear body. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.This species is hardy and makes a great beginner's butterflyfish. It is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. It will also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on. This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The incredibly beautiful Rainford's butterfly makes a spectacular addition to the devoted aquarist's aquarium. Against a backdrop of intense zinc yellow are wide vertical bands in deep amber and honey. A darker eyespot at the base of its tail helps to confuse predators who can't distinguish this fish's head from its tail. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons. It is a special treat rarely imported from Australia.This species is normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. If it is to be kept with other butterflyfish they should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. It may acclimate better if kept in a group with its own kind. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is difficult to feed and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.

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Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Bennett's Toby puffer is a assorted colored polka dots coating its light colored body. The Bennett's Toby can grow up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Fang Tooth eels are fish eaters in the wild, and while often combined with other large fish in an aquarium there is always risk that the eel may consume them. This most often happens at night or if the other fish is injured or sick. Crustaceans and other invertebrates may also be consumed. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Use of a feeding stick may be necessary. We never recommend using ones fingers to feed an eel as the eel may become excited and bite, which may lead to infection. Eel bites should be thoroughly washed and disinfected. Eels are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.A stunning beauty, the Tesselata Moray is a spectacular beast. Countless honeycomb markings in an inky black are arranged over a backdrop of snow white which shimmers a rainbow of colors in the right light. The Tesselata Moray grows to 61 inche and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.We recommend a tight fitting lid for all eel species. They are incredible escape artists, powerful enough to lift themselves out of the water and push on a lid or squeeze through small spaces. Care should also be taken when acclimating so the fish does not escape onto the floor.Their aquarium should provide plenty of secure rockwork- larger species may topple unstable decor or dig under the sand. At least two caves should be provided for each eel, large enough it can fully hide itself when needed. When feeling secure most eels will poke their head out of their cave for the majority of the day. Eels are safe with all corals, sponges and macro algaes, to which they have no interest.Extreme caution should be used if considering adding more than one eel to an aquarium as they may attack one another.

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Fang Tooth eels are fish eaters in the wild, and while often combined with other large fish in an aquarium there is always risk that the eel may consume them. This most often happens at night or if the other fish is injured or sick. Crustaceans and other invertebrates may also be consumed. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Use of a feeding stick may be necessary. We never recommend using ones fingers to feed an eel as the eel may become excited and bite, which may lead to infection. Eel bites should be thoroughly washed and disinfected. Eels are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Richardson Moray is a charming species that does not grow too large. It is all over earthy shades of coffee and cream arranged in a speckled or mottled pattern providing great camouflage. The Richardson Moray grows to 13 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.We recommend a tight fitting lid for all eel species. They are incredible escape artists, powerful enough to lift themselves out of the water and push on a lid or squeeze through small spaces. Care should also be taken when acclimating so the fish does not escape onto the floor.Their aquarium should provide plenty of secure rockwork- larger species may topple unstable decor or dig under the sand. At least two caves should be provided for each eel, large enough it can fully hide itself when needed. When feeling secure most eels will poke their head out of their cave for the majority of the day. Eels are safe with all corals, sponges and macro algaes, to which they have no interest.Extreme caution should be used if considering adding more than one eel to an aquarium as they may attack one another.

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The Fishers angel is a bright fiery orange color with darker burnt orange flecked over its flank and rear fins. Its eyes are an intense red and its tail is white. It is collected from the waters around Hawaii. Males and females are visually identical. The Fishers angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day. It has been known to eat diatom algae in the aquarium.

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The Barbouri seahorse is rarely available, but is a breathtakingly beautiful animal. Its coloration may be bright yellow with fine speckles along its back and tail in a contrasting brown and white. Along its snout are fine stripes in alternating light and dark. It has small spikes along its spine, giving it a prehistoric look. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.

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Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.A delightful import from the Caribbean, the Dusky jawfish is all over mottled earthy shades of coffee and cream giving it excellent camouflage. A large bulls-eye mark on its dorsal fin makes it easy to spot when it emerges from its burrow. Males and females are identical. It may be more likely than other species to consume shrimp. It grows to 5 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The gorgeous tamarin wrasse is usually available as a red tailed variety with a stunning scarlet red tail with a stark white crescent at the base. Its entire body is inky black with tiny white polka dots. These are female fish, and mature specimens may transition into a male whose tail turns dark, however their head changes to a fiery orange with electric blue blotches. Deep daffodil color with blue spots develops on its fins and its white polka dots turn blue. The male's stunning colors give this fish the common name of Psych-head wrasse. It grows to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, as well as other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. They may also bully or eat small fish, but are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. When threatened or resting it may dive under the sand, but more commonly sleeps within the rocks.The Possum, or Arrowhead Pygmy wrasse, is a delightful fish hailing from the Philippines. Its body is overall rusty red colored with a large dark eyespot on most of its fins. Large eyes and pouty lips give it instant charm. White lines radiate from around its eye, one vertical line is just behind its pelvic fins, and two near its tail at an angle. The Red Tanaka's possum is similar to the White Banded except it is brighter red and one of its facial lines wraps around its head behind its eye, and the rear lines are more vertical. Male and female Possum wrasses are identical, grow to 2.5-3 inches and need an aquarium of at least 15 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Lined Tamarin is gifted with incredibly contrasting patterns over its entire body. Over a background of inky black are countless snowy white dots arranged in horizontal lines from its nose to the base of its tail. Its caudal fin has a crescent of pure white and another of solid black. Mature fish may develop into males, whose body changes from black to maroon. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.The Fosters hawkfish is uniquely colored snow white on its belly, ruby red on its face fading to black at its tail, and lemon yellow along its back. Some individuals may be deep rusty red with a yellow tail. On all fish its face is covered in dozens of blood red to black freckles. Males and females are visually identical. As one of the largest hawkfish it is quite predatory on smaller fishes and possibly crabs, and is best kept with other large and aggressive species. It is also known as the Blackside or Freckled hawkfish. It grows to 9 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.

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The Bluespot Watchman goby makes an incredible display when it raises its large dorsal fin which contains several large dark navy spots. Its body may be either deep yellow to orange with darker bands, and bright blue speckles on its face and a few trailing onto its body. Alternatively it may be earthy olive green showing dark bands only when excited, with many bright blue speckles on its body and a few on its face. It tends to be one of the most peaceful shrimp gobies towards smaller goby species, although it may eat small shrimp. Some reports claim the two color forms may represent sexual dimorphism, although it may be a regional difference. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 15 gallons or larger. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.This rarely available damsel is sought after not only for its super saturated colors but also its peaceful demeanor- it is known to be one of the least aggressive damselfish.

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Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.Female Maroon clownfish may grow up to 6.5 inches, with males much smaller; sometimes the female may be up to six times the size of her mate. They are very aggressive and need an aquarium at least 50 gallons or larger.Maroon clownfish are one of the most belligerent of all the clownfish, and will kill any other clownfish species in their aquarium. They are best kept singly, however if a pair is to be attempted wild pairs are often collected and available together. For tank bred fish, the female should be as big as possible and the male as small as possible and added into the female's tank. This is because all Maroon clownfish want to be the most dominant, and unless there is a clear inequality in size neither fish will back down until one of them is killed. It may be beneficial to have a second host for the male fish to retreat to when his mate is feeling feisty.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor), Long tentacle (Macrodactyla doreensis), Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica), and Sebae (Heteractis crispa).Maroon clownfish are large and impressive animals with deep red color and three narrow white stripes. Large females tend to be a darker shade than small males, which can be quite brightly colored.

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Assessors are fascinating fish with an amusing habit of swimming upside down. They are often found living under overhangs, but once established in a peaceful aquarium will swim in the open water and become quite personable. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be avoided. Assessors are safe with corals and all other reef inhabitants. They are peaceful with all other fish and go well with even very shy fish such as jawfish, pipefish and seahorses.Assessors are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp and high quality pellets. It is preferable to feed two to three times a dayThe Blue Assessor is an elegant deep navy all over with dark edging on its scales. Under the right light the edges of its fins shimmer a striking sapphire blue. Males and females are identical; however males may grow slightly larger. It grows to 2 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. It may be kept alone or in a group. For multiple assessors the aquarium must be large enough and all individuals added together at the same time. We recommend at least 30 gallons per assessor.

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The Multibarred angel is a stunning and uncommon fish. It is overall pearly white with black zebra stripes over its entire body, and yellow highlights on its lower fins and lips. Males and females are visually identical.The Multibarred angel can grow to be up to 4.5 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. The Multibarred angel can be a finicky eater, and it should be fed a varied diet of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Majestic angel sports some of the brightest colors of any angelfish, and also remains one of the smallest of its genus. It is also known as the blue girdled angelfish because of the blue markings which extend down its face and posterior across its entire belly. Its back and tail are a bright yellow. Each scale on its sides has a dot of blue in the center. As a juvenile it is deep blue with vertical bands, however they transition while at a small size and most of the individuals we carry already show the adult colors. Males and females are visually identical.The Majestic angel can grow to be up to 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Golden angel is a rare and incredibly beautiful fish. It is overall an intense deep blood-orange color with fiery orange stripes across the entire body. The eyes are surrounded by dark rings. Males and females are visually identical.The Golden angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It is more difficult than most other dwarf angelfish to keep, and is recommended to be the only angelfish in the aquarium. It acclimates to captivity better if it is one of the first fish added to an established aquarium, and is kept with only peaceful tank mates.The Golden angelfish may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, and sponges. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Emperor angel is one of the most recognizable and iconic marine angel fish. As a juvenile it is deep blue with white circles radiating from its posterior, in front of its tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the circles extend into stripes along the body, its tail turns yellow, and a dark mask develops over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical.The Emperor angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Blue Velvet angel a beautiful and newly discovered species. Its whole body is a deep shade of intense blue which shines when the light hits it just right. Until recently it was thought to be a variant of the midnight angel, but is now considered a unique species. It is rarely available and only collected in deep water around Fiji, and as such may be more reclusive under intense lighting. Males and females are visually identical. < br />The Blue Velvet angel can grow approximately 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time. < br />Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Blue Face angel has two distinct and equally lovely color forms which changes as it grows. As a juvenile it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the stripes fade away and each body scale becomes edged in pale yellow creating a latticework effect. Its face remains blue with a distinct bright yellow mask over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The blue face angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.Saddleback complex clownfish are typically less aggressive than most other clownfish. They grow up to 5 inches and need an aquarium at least 30 gallons. The different types of Saddleback complex clownfish include Sebae and Saddleback among others. Species from other complexes in their territory usually causes fighting.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best host is a carpet anemone (Stichodactyla sp.), however Sebae (Heteractis crispa) and Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) are also popular choices.The charming Sebae clownfish has deep black draped over its back and bright yellow on its face, belly, lower fins and tail, and sometimes the rear half of its dorsal fin. It has full cheek and mid-body stripes and usually no tail stripe at all. It is similar to the Saddleback clownfish but gets a little larger and lacks the distinctive white tail tips of the Saddleback.

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The striking Vagabond butterfly sports inky black stripes through its eyes, another in front of its tail and finally a black edge to its dorsal fin. Across its shimmering white body are fine lines creating a criss-cross pattern. Its rear body is bright daffodil yellow. It is similar to its Indian Ocean cousin but has yellow between its dorsal stripes. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.This species is hardy and makes a great beginner's butterflyfish. It is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. It will also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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The Grey angel is a subtle beauty from the Caribbean. As a juvenile it is stark black with bright yellow stripes running from top to bottom. As an adult, the stripes it has as a juvenile fade away and it becomes a dusty grey with many of its scales dotted with deep charcoal. The tips of the dorsal and anal fins extend into long trailing points. It is similar in appearance to the French angelfish, however there are some differences. As a juvenile the very end of the grey angel's tail fin is transparent, whereas on the French angel it is yellow. As an adult, the Grey angel's scales are dotted with black and lack the yellow highlights of the French. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Grey angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.

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Sweetlips are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They are friendly with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, snails, serpent stars, and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be added at the same time. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Sweetlips feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least twice a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Harlequin sweetlips is usually available as an adorable juvenile, but its potential for growth should not be underestimated. Small fish are a caramel color with big white polka dots and oversized fins. They swim in an undulating fashion, resembling a clownfish, to mimic the movements of poisonous flatworms and avoid predation. They grow into handsome fish with olive colored bodies and countless black spots, silver bellies, and black fins. Males and females are identical. The Harlequin Sweetlips grows up to 28 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 225 gallons.

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The Angler, or Frogfish, is a fascinating ambush predator which makes an incredible pet and conversation piece. Their stout bodies come in a wide range of colors and textures. They may be rather smooth or bumpy textured. Common colors include shades of brown and black, sometimes with stripes. Most Anglers grow to only 4 inches with some larger species rarely exceeding 8 inches. Because of their low activity level any of them may be kept in aquariums of 20-30 gallons in size.Anglers spend most of their time perched atop the rockwork surveying their surroundings and watching for a potential meal to pass by. Anything that swims or crawls may be considered edible- shrimp, crabs, and other fish, even those larger than itself may be eaten. For this reason the Angler should only be kept with snails and sessile invertebrates such as corals, sponges, tunicates and macroalgae.If hungry an anglerfish will extend its fishing lure from the top of its head and dangle it in front of its mouth. When prey comes close to investigate it is instantly sucked into the vacuum of the Angler's mouth. Many specimens become so tame that they extend their lure when they catch sight of their owner. They rarely swim, usually preferring to literally walk using their fins as feet, or sometimes gulping water and jetting it out the gills to propel themselves. We don't recommend lifting the Angler out of the water as it may occasionally gulp air and have trouble expelling it.They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.

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Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Yellowface is a handsome animal also known as the Pineapple triggerfish for its resemblance to the fresh tropical fruit. Its body is yellow to peach colored with black edging to each of its scales. Its face may be a rosy color, and have bright red to orange highlights on the edges of its fins. It is best kept only with other large aggressive fish and never with other triggerfish. It is more likely than other species to bite at invertebrates and corals. It grows up to 24 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 200 gallons.

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An impressive display animal for large aquariums, the Spotted Unicorn tang is sure to entrance anyone lucky enough to view it. Its whole body is a very light slate color with lovely baby blue polka-dots. When fully mature body is very long and tapered, its tail takes on an impressive fan shape, and a single horn extends from its forehead potentially reaching well past its lips. The horn typically begins to develop when the fish is 6 inches long. Males and females are visually identical.The Spotted Unicorn tang can grow to be approximately 24 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 360 gallons or larger.Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.

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The Hawaii Naso tang is similar to its Philippine counterpart, however its colors are more intense. It has an elongated, tear-drop shaped body which is primarily a soft, mousy grey. As a juvenile it may show small white blotches on its flank. Its face slopes gently towards its snout, giving it the common name smooth head unicorn. Above its eye the skin shines blue, and it has a distinctive mask of yellow over its face which extends down towards its orange lips. It has two scalpels near the tail, colored a bright orange. The lower fins are also orange, and its dorsal fin is dark black which makes a striking contrast against the rest of the fish. Its tail is pointed at the tips, and on a mature male these tips may extend to long streamers. The streamers may begin to grow when the fish is 5-6 inches, until then males and females are visually identical.The Naso tang can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger.Naso tangs tend to grow on the larger side, so they need lots of space to swim. Because of their large size they are quite strong, and may be able to graze some macroalgaes such as sargassum. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.

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The Mustard tang is a rare import with a very unique look. Its round body is the color of brushed silver with thick stripes extending vertically down its body which are a darker, dusty grey to dark charcoal. Overlaying its posterior half are bright white polka-dots, making a bold contrast over its stripes. Its pelvic fins and the base of its tail are a sunny yellow, the end of the tail being dark grey to black. Males and females are visually identical.The Mustard tang can grow to be approximately 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons or larger.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.

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Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The V-Tail grouper is primarily bright ruby to deep rusty red all over, with darker red spots sprinkled all over. Its most distinguishing feature is a strikingly white V pattern on its tail, giving it another common name, the Flag Tail grouper. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 11 inche; we recommend an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.

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The Blonde Naso tang is similar to its counterparts from other locals, however its dorsal fin is a distinctive bright yellow. It has an elongated, tear-drop shaped body which is primarily a soft, mousy grey. As a juvenile it may show small white blotches on its flank. Its face slopes gently towards its snout, giving it the common name smooth head unicorn. Above its eye the skin shines blue, and it has a distinctive mask of yellow over its face which extends down towards its orange lips. It has two scalpels near the tail, colored a bright orange. The lower fins are also orange. Its tail is pointed at the tips, and on a mature male these tips may extend to long streamers. The streamers may begin to grow when the fish is 5-6 inches, until then males and females are visually identical.The Naso tang can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger.Naso tangs tend to grow on the larger side, so they need lots of space to swim. Because of their large size they are quite strong, and may be able to graze some macroalgaes such as sargassum. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.

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The Red Checkered Perch is a colorful fish with bright ruby red bands and spots covering its elongated, snow white body. These bands cover its face nearly obscuring its eyes. On some individuals the bands appear as saddles along its back, giving it another common name, the U-Mark sand perch. It is also known as Snyderi's grubfish. It has a pointed snout, and may have yellow blotches or spots on its face and body. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.The Red Checkered Perch spends most of its time sitting atop rocks or the substrate, keeping a sharp eye on its surroundings, similar to a hawkfish. It may be kept in a group if the aquarium is sufficiently large and all individuals are added at the same time. We don't recommend keeping it with small fish, which it may harass, or small invertebrates which it may eat. It does not harm corals. We find the Red Checkered Perch adapts well to aquarium life and is a hardy addition.Sand Perches are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. Frozen food should be offered initially, and in time they usually learn to eat dry foods as well.

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Pipefish are gentle fish related to seahorses. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, seahorses, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species. Most pipefish are imported from the Philippines.If given enough space pipefish do not fight amongst each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. Female pipefish generally have brighter and more contrasting colors than do males. If multiple fish are kept together the females may flash their colors at each other and attempt to woo a male. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch.Pipefish are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. They prefer to eat live foods, and do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Pipefish should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Pipefish feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of pipefish we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. br />he Many Banded pipefish an exquisite beauty that is quite rare. Very thin alternating bands of rusty red and bright yellow ring the fish from the tip of its elongated snout to its tail. Its large caudal fin is a bright red, yellow and white, like a round flag. It swims in a beautiful undulating motion through the water. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. The Banded pipefish spends most of its day out in the open, but does appreciate caves and overhangs where it may retreat. It sometimes acts as a cleaner for other fish.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.One of the most handsome wrasses available, the Jansen wrasse wears dark navy to emerald saddles over its back against a background of white to cream. Bright blue highlights its eyes and tail. Each of the saddles is outlined in a brighter lemon to lime. As the fish matures the dark saddles enlarge to cover much of its body. Each fish is unique, making differentiating males from females difficult. Females may have wider saddles, and males may have more yellow. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 120 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Stunning lemon yellow paints the broad dorsal fin on this dazzling fish. Deep pink saddles drape over its back and head against a backdrop of delicate rose. Females are a bright pink with a dark eyespot at the base of the tail. It is one of the smallest fairy wrasses, and surprisingly adept at holding their own. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The spectacular Scott's wrasse displays an incredible variety of color morphs, but all sport a rainbow of vivid colors arranged in broad blotches over the body and fins. Its background body color is typically deep forest green to navy; many fish have a large scarlet patch on their sides, and some have velvety black edging to their fins, although others have lemon yellow fins. Females are colored in more subdued warm shades. This species is able to stand its ground against other fish, and is very aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Blue Head wrasse is an incredible beauty from the Caribbean. Mature male fish sport a bright sapphire blue head and a wide, distinctive band at the shoulders of inky black with stark white in the middle. Its body is turquoise and transitions to aqua at the tail. Female fish have a more turquoise colored head. Juvenile fish are more lemon colored with a dark horizontal stripe along their bodies. It grows up to 7 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.

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Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well. The Red Elongated dottyback is a delightful fish with exquisite coloration. It is primarily deep rosy red all over, with brighter fiery pink to orange on its face and a large black dot on its caudal fin. It is similar to the Finescaled dottyback, but that fish lacks the black spot on its tail. The Red Elongated dottyback is rarely available but is highly sought after; it is one of the most peaceful dottybacks and poses only minimal threat to shrimp. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest dottybacks, growing to 2.5 inches, and needing an aquarium of at least 20 gallons.

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Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.The Speckled hawkfish is a gorgeous fish with large scarlet blotches against a white background. The blotches become small spots on its head and eyes. Each spiked ray of it dorsal fin is tuffed with furry cirri. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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The Tangaroa shrimp goby is a small fish with a lot to love. Its milky body is sprinkled with dozens of bright orange to red polka-dots. Even its eyes and lips are covered in colorful freckles. Its first dorsal fin is a tall over-sized spike that is as high as its body is long and colored a striking contrasting black. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.

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