This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.This plump, single polyped coral is naturally free-living on the substrate; its pointed cone-shaped bottom helps to stabilize it in sand or rubble, and aids in differentiating it from the similar Wellso brain. It has some ability to rid itself of sand, however it takes a great deal of energy. Ultra varieties are typically a stunning red shade, and might have a contrasting center or stripes, which often fluorescence under actinic lighting. Red Trachy typically appreciates slightly less light than green varieties. Trachy Brain is usually a round shape when small, and may develop folds as it matures.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.The Bristle Tail filefish is famous for its appetite for nuisance Aiptasia anemones. It has an olive to cream colored body arranged in a blotchy mottled pattern. It is able to freely lighten and darken its coloration at will, helping it to blend in with sea grasses. Along its tail are small prickly spines like Velcro, which may become easily tangled in a net. We recommend a container always be used to transport this fish. Males have larger bristles than females. Fish that graze on the rockwork may mistake the Bristle Tail filefish's body for algae and pick on them. It grows up to 4 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.The Bristle Tail filefish is famous for its appetite for nuisance Aiptasia anemones. It has an olive to cream colored body arranged in a blotchy mottled pattern. It is able to freely lighten and darken its coloration at will, helping it to blend in with sea grasses. Along its tail are small prickly spines like Velcro, which may become easily tangled in a net. We recommend a container always be used to transport this fish. Males have larger bristles than females. Fish that graze on the rockwork may mistake the Bristle Tail filefish's body for algae and pick on them. It grows up to 4 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The Brittle star is usually jet black or light pink, sometimes with light and dark banding. Its arms are covered in course bristles. It gets its name from the fact that, if threatened, its arms may fall off or break into pieces. It spends most of its time hiding inside the rock with its arms sticking out, waiting for some fish food to drift by. It is an efficient scavenger and can clean the rocks of leftover food and detritus. It is completely reef safe and does not bother corals. It is safe with fish, although very small sleeping fish may occasionally be at risk. Because it eagerly consumes fish food it is one of the easiest starfish to keep.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months to ensure water stability. It grows up to 10 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.
The Green Brittle star is known to occasionally catch and consume fishes and crustaceans, and is also known as the Green Death star. It is an attractive pine green with lighter olive to sage colored spines and stripes. Its arms are covered in course bristles. It gets its name from the fact that, if threatened, its arms may fall off or break into pieces. It spends most of its time hiding inside the rock with its arms sticking out, waiting for some fish food to drift by. It is an efficient scavenger and can clean the rocks of leftover food and detritus. Because it eagerly consumes fish food it is one of the easiest starfish to keep. It makes an impressive display animal and a great pet in a dedicated aquarium.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months to ensure water stability. It grows up to 20 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.
The Brown Clown goby is a diminutive darling with a chubby body and peaceful demeanor. Its body is the color of a caffe latte, earthy and warm. Two stripes run through its eyes in a robin's egg blue giving a nice accent. It has a down-turned mouth giving it a hilarious grumpy face. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 5 gallons, or at least 10 gallons for a pair.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Brown Heniochus is a rich chocolate hue with a stark white stripe running diagonally behind its eyes, and another from the tip of its tall feathered dorsal fin to the base of its tail. A dark mask covers its face, and its lower fins are inky black. Its pelvic fins are especially large and rounded. When mature it develops a very unique feature- two curved horns extend over its eyes. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups as long as all individuals are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Heniochus do not show differences between males and females. Heniochus are also known as bannerfish and are related to butterflyfish and angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.Butterflyfish and bannerfish may eat anemones, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The fish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is lots of live rock and overhangs to hide under, as plenty of open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed but may be fussy initially. It should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.
As the ocean's most spectacular ambush predators, it is no wonder lionfish are so popular. Their huge fins are used to confuse and herd smaller animals so the lionfish can swallow them whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving lionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. If added at the same time, and if of similar size, several lionfish may be kept together as long as there is at least one private refuge in the rocks for each fish. Most species are imported from Bali.The tips of the lionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the lionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Lionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.to keep, spending much of its time in the open and most specimens readily learning to eat frozen foods. Its light cream colored body is covered in wide dark coffee to rust red colored bands alternating with thin stripes. Its long fin rays are connected with thin webbing and trailing flaps. When large it may occasionally show aggression towards other lionfish. It has many names, including Turkeyfish, Firefish and Devilfish. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 15 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.The Bubble Tip anemone is the best first choice anemone as it tolerates a wide variety of lighting and aquarium conditions. It may grow up to 12 inches but typically divides into two or more specimens before reaching a large size. Common specimens are brownish in color. Its tentacles may take on a bulbous appearance or be long and thin. Both shapes can be found on healthy specimens, and the shape may change depending on the animal's mood.Bubble tip anemone prefers to hide its foot in the rockwork. It may host with any type of clownfish, hosting easiest with Percula, Maroon, Ephippium, Tomato and Clarkii complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.The Bubble Tip anemone is the best first choice anemone as it tolerates a wide variety of lighting and aquarium conditions. It may grow up to 12 inches but typically divides into two or more specimens before reaching a large size. Its tentacles may take on a bulbous appearance or be long and thin. Both shapes can be found on healthy specimens, and the shape may change depending on the animal's mood.Bubble tip anemone prefers to hide its foot in the rockwork. It may host with any type of clownfish, hosting easiest with Percula, Maroon, Ephippium, Tomato and Clarkii complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.The Bubble Tip anemone is the best first choice anemone as it tolerates a wide variety of lighting and aquarium conditions. It may grow up to 12 inches but typically divides into two or more specimens before reaching a large size. Its tentacles may take on a bulbous appearance or be long and thin. Both shapes can be found on healthy specimens, and the shape may change depending on the animal's mood.Bubble tip anemone prefers to hide its foot in the rockwork. It may host with any type of clownfish, hosting easiest with Percula, Maroon, Ephippium, Tomato and Clarkii complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.The Bubble Tip anemone is the best first choice anemone as it tolerates a wide variety of lighting and aquarium conditions. It may grow up to 12 inches but typically divides into two or more specimens before reaching a large size. Its tentacles may take on a bulbous appearance or be long and thin. Both shapes can be found on healthy specimens, and the shape may change depending on the animal's mood.Bubble tip anemone prefers to hide its foot in the rockwork. It may host with any type of clownfish, hosting easiest with Percula, Maroon, Ephippium, Tomato and Clarkii complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.The Bubble Tip anemone is the best first choice anemone as it tolerates a wide variety of lighting and aquarium conditions. It may grow up to 12 inches but typically divides into two or more specimens before reaching a large size. Ultra specimens have extra bright colors, sometimes multicolored. Its tentacles may take on a bulbous appearance or be long and thin. Both shapes can be found on healthy specimens, and the shape may change depending on the animal's mood.Bubble tip anemone prefers to hide its foot in the rockwork. It may host with any type of clownfish, hosting easiest with Percula, Maroon, Ephippium, Tomato and Clarkii complexes. Ultra Bubbles are priced on a per piece basis. Pricing will vary from piece to piece!
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. At night time it will retract the bubbles and extend its feeding tentacles, and will benefit from meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. It can alter the size of its bubbles to expose its symbiotic algae to more or less light, however like all corals sudden changes in light intensity should be avoided.Bubble corals can be hardy once established and are not prone to pests, aside from planaria flatworms. When handling this coral it should be picked up via the skeleton only, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has thin tissue which is prone to tearing, and may suffer from infectious brown jelly infection due to injury if removed from water while inflated, from falls due to incorrect placement, or high water flow.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles.The Bubble coral is an irresistible display of large water filled balloons which totally obscure the stony skeleton underneath. Its alluring appearance has made it a favorite of many hobbyists. Color may vary, with Australian specimens being more rare and impressive than those from other locations. It is best positioned on the rockwork where it cannot fall, in a vertical position.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting:Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. At night time it will retract the bubbles and extend its feeding tentacles, and will benefit from meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. It can alter the size of its bubbles to expose its symbiotic algae to more or less light, however like all corals sudden changes in light intensity should be avoided.Bubble corals can be hardy once established and are not prone to pests, aside from planaria flatworms. When handling this coral it should be picked up via the skeleton only, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has thin tissue which is prone to tearing, and may suffer from infectious brown jelly infection due to injury if removed from water while inflated, from falls due to incorrect placement, or high water flow.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles.The Bubble coral is an irresistible display of large water filled balloons which totally obscure the stony skeleton underneath. Its alluring appearance has made it a favorite of many hobbyists. The ultra Bubble is typically translucent green, and may fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Australian specimens are more rare and impressive than those from other locations. It is best positioned on the rockwork where it cannot fall, in a vertical position. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting:Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. At night time it will retract the bubbles and extend its feeding tentacles, and will benefit from meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. It can alter the size of its bubbles to expose its symbiotic algae to more or less light, however like all corals sudden changes in light intensity should be avoided.Bubble corals can be hardy once established and are not prone to pests, aside from planaria flatworms. When handling this coral it should be picked up via the skeleton only, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. It has thin tissue which is prone to tearing, and may suffer from infectious brown jelly infection due to injury if removed from water while inflated, from falls due to incorrect placement, or high water flow.This coral should be provided with plenty of space as it may produce long, powerful sweeper tentacles.The Pearl Bubble coral has a crowded cluster of small bubbles often with pointed tips covering its surface. Its alluring appearance has made it a favorite of many hobbyists. Australian specimens may have nicer coloration than those from other locations. It is best positioned on the rockwork where it cannot fall, in a horizontal position.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting:Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Low Temperament: Aggressive
Bulgarian Seal Point Angelfish Pterophyllum scalare Freshwater Angels come in a variety of different colours and patterns, with long wispy fins that flow elegantly behind them. Though considered semi-aggressive, this behavior is only exhibited from breeding pairs who wish to protect their territory. They do like to live amongst other angels so long as they are provided with enough space. They are peaceful toward other community fish. Angels can grow to a size of 6 inches from the tip of their nose to the end length of their tail. They are not the most active fish and like to hover around in open spaces of the tank, so they require a tank of at least 30 gallons, more for a large school. Angels need to be fed a variety of meaty foods such as brine shrimp and vegetables in the form of high-quality flake or pellet food. Bulgarian Seal Point Angelfish Specifics
False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Bullseye mushroom corals have a leathery texture covered in bumpy nubs. Tonga Blue mushrooms have a stunning blue to royal purple coloration, each one accented with a unique pattern of contrasting colored markings. It is easy to keep and makes a great coral for beginners and experienced collectors alike. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The Bullseye Mushroom has a bumpy or fuzzy texture, and may come in any bright color of the rainbow including emerald green, royal purple, and electric orange. This shallow water coral does best under bright lighting, but is highly adaptable. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.The delightful Bumble Bee shrimp is white or yellow with fine black stripes. It grows to only 1 inch and makes a perfect addition to a nano aquarium. It will pick on the tube feet of Echinoderms. It should be spot fed some fish food daily.
The attractive Bumble Bee snail has a jet black shell with bright yellow stripes. It actively patrols the rocks and sand in search of detritus and fish food to eat. It may also consume worms and micro-fauna in the substrate. It grows to 1 inch. It is commonly available from the Philippines. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Bundoon blenny is a peaceful and beautiful little fish. It has an elongated body which is bright olive green to yellow with contrasting dark stripes along its body to its long, forked tail. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 3.5 inches.Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. They only use this bite as defense and are generally quite peaceful to tank mates. However, care should be taken when handling the fish in a net, or if small children have access to the aquarium and may put their fingers in the water. Fang blennies spend almost all their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. They are reef safe and very easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.
The epitome of grace and beauty, the spectacular Burgess butterfly makes a striking center piece. Cutting across its stark white body are three inky black stripes, each one enlarging towards its tail. It grows up to 5.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.The Burgess butterfly is a rare treasure from deep water, and thus appreciates a dimly lit aquarium, at least initially. This species is normally quite peaceful and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept in pairs or groups which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many corals especially LPS, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. It is sometimes safe with soft corals such as mushrooms and colt, or SPS, however caution should still be exercised if attempting it in a reef aquarium. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. A rainbow of colors streaks across the charming Bursa trigger's face; a bright orange stripe from its mouth, yellow and caramel from its eyes, come together at a point under its pectoral fins. Baby blue highlights around each of the other stripes, all overtop a background of light fawn. The edges of its caudal fin are also orange, and a distinctive black blotch covers its belly. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 9 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The chubby, distinctive balloon-like bladders which surround the Button Brain or Modern coral can inflate to an impressive size, quickly making it a striking center-piece. It is typically found living on rocks, but can also be placed on the bottom of the aquarium. It may sometimes refuse to inflate if the water quality is poor, and thrives best under low lighting. The Australia variety is usually a much nicer color than from other areas; most specimens are translucent shades of green with a contrasting color, usually purple or rose.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The chubby, distinctive balloon-like bladders which surround the Button Brain or Modern coral can inflate to an impressive size, quickly making it a striking center-piece. It is typically found living on rocks, but can also be placed on the bottom of the aquarium. It may sometimes refuse to inflate if the water quality is poor, and thrives best under low lighting. Ultra Australia specimens are rare, and have much brighter colors than the standard variety; color may be highly metallic or very saturated, typically pink, but other colors are also possible.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Peaceful
These corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of phytoplankton. Specimens collected from the South Pacific have much more vivid colors than those from Indonesia.While leather corals have non-stinging tentacles, it is possible for them to release potent chemicals into the water which adversely affect the growth of stony corals; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. They occasionally retract all polyps and develop a waxy sheet over the surface which makes them look wet underwater; this is a natural cleansing behavior. Given good water flow the sheet will be shed into the water and the polyps will re-emerge. The sheet will break down naturally, but should be removed if seen floating in the water or if it covers another coral.Once established this coral is very hardy, but it may be prone to several types of pests. Snails such as the rapa rapa, little egg cowrie, nudibranches, and worms such as syllid worms (among others) may prey on soft corals. We recommend every coral be dipped before placed in a display aquarium. Leather corals may also be sensitive to the aluminum oxide in some phosphate-absorbing media.This easy to keep coral grows as delightful ruffles extending a few inches from the rock. It comes in shades of tan to pink with tiny polyps scattered sporadically over its surface and along the edges of its ruffles. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium - Strong Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.A talented dancer and fine dresser, the handsome Camel shrimp is both entertaining and easy on the eyes. It waggles its body as if it was dancing The Robot and enjoys the company of its own kind. It is sometimes mistaken for the Peppermint shrimp, however it is quite different. It is also known as the Candy, Dancing and Hinge-Beak shrimp. It grows to 2 inches; males have larger claws than females. It may pick on coral polyps but usually ignores other invertebrates, fish, and corals and anemones with strong stinging tentacles. It is easy to feed with fish food.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Canary blenny makes a cheery and colorful addition. It has an elongated body which is bright lemony yellow all over. It has a high dorsal fin and a very long, fork shaped tail which moves gracefully as the fish swims. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 5 inches.Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. They only use this bite as defense and are generally quite peaceful to tank mates. However, care should be taken when handling the fish in a net, or if small children have access to the aquarium and may put their fingers in the water. Fang blennies spend almost all their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. They are reef safe and very easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Canary blenny makes a cheery and colorful addition. It has an elongated body which is bright lemony yellow all over. It has a high dorsal fin and a very long, fork shaped tail which moves gracefully as the fish swims. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 5 inches.Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. They only use this bite as defense and are generally quite peaceful to tank mates. However, care should be taken when handling the fish in a net, or if small children have access to the aquarium and may put their fingers in the water. Fang blennies spend almost all their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. They are reef safe and very easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Bass and Basslets make wonderful peaceful community fish and are also coral safe. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for Basslets which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and groups of multiple individuals. There are no differences between males and females. Basslets feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming.They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen meaty foods, and may learn to take dry foods in time. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.No other fish on the reef can compare to the radiant colors of the Red Candy basslet. Its colors are so saturated they nearly jump off the fish! Fiery tangerine striped with marvelous magenta paints this fish from its nose to the end of its tail. Two jet black spots on its tail, one on its dorsal fin, and its black pupil are surrounded by sapphire blue to bright violet. It can be differentiated from similar basslets by having no black spot on its anal fin. Because of the great depths in which it lives it is rarely collected. It is peaceful and invertebrate safe, except for very small shrimp and crabs, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is relatively hardy once established, however may suffer from swim bladder damage and sensitivity to medications. The Red Candy basslet grows to 2.5 inches.
Candy Cane coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. It is tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and is not prone to pests.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although Candy Cane corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.Candy cane, also known as Trumpet, is easy to keep and is often the first LPS coral many hobbyists keep. Each polyp is large and fleshy and grows on its own branch. Cultured Candy Cane is typically a bright green color and may fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium
Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Peaceful
Candy Cane coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. It is tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and is not prone to pests.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although Candy Cane corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.Candy cane, also known as Trumpet, is easy to keep and is often the first LPS coral many hobbyists keep. Each polyp is large and fleshy and grows on its own branch. Cultured Candy Cane is typically a bright green color and may fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium
Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Peaceful
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A delightful fish, the colorful Candy Stripe hogfish is so bright it nearly glows. Super saturated lemon yellow covers it from nose to tail, with contrasting scarlet horizontal stripes and a small dot before its tail. A dramatic dark eyespot is behind its gill cover, and another on its dorsal fin. It maintains its bright colors when mature, typically with the red stripes becoming more bold. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates. It is less likely than other hogfish to bother invertebrates, and even large shrimp may be safe if they are added before the hogfish. It grows up to 4 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Cardinal Tetra Paracheirodon axelrodi Tetras are one of the best go-to fish for filling up some empty space in your aquarium. They are lively schooling fish that are quite active throughout the tank, creating a dazzling show of the metallic and bright colors they come in. Tetras are peaceful and do best with other peaceful community fish, preferring to be in groups of at least 6 to feel secure. Tetras max out at 2 inches, so they are best rated for tanks 10 gallons and upwards for a school of at least 6. Lots of natural foliage is recommended for the Tetra to weave through to create shady spots to rest and hide in. Tetras will accept many forms of food, such as high-quality pellet and flake foods, thawed brine shrimp, and freeze-dried shrimp. Cardinal Tetra Specifics Cardinal Tetras are a peaceful fish that grow to a size of 2 inches. They prefer water temperatures between 73-81oF, a pH between 5.5-7.5, and a dKH between 2-6.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Flasher wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. Their small size means they are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp. They do not bother corals or anemones. As they are quite dainty we don't recommend keeping them with other types of wrasses or any large or aggressive species else they will be bullied. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first. Groups with more than one male, even of different species, may be kept in large aquariums if they are added at the same time.Females of most species are nearly identical; males may also be difficult to distinguish except when flashing. Hybrid fish are common and carry traits from both species.Flasher wrasses get their name from the male's behavior of raising his fins and intensifying his coloration far beyond his normal appearance, usually to seduce a female or intimidate rival males or other species. At night time flasher wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The striking Carpenter's wrasse is the most commonly available of the flasher wrasses. Males have several extended dorsal fin rays which may be as tall as his body; there are usually two to four of these rays. His tail is yellow and rounded with two vertical rows of dense spots in bright magenta. Similarly colored spots arranged in stripes run from his nose to the base of the tail, one on his anal fin and two on his dorsal fin. His body is a bright tangerine with a white to yellow belly. When flashing his body becomes golden, fins red, and the magenta spots become turquoise. Females have similar colors to the male at rest, mainly tangerine with rounded fins. This species is similar to the McCosker's flasher. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish, larger for a group.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.A spectacular animal that often grows to 24 inches or more and makes an incredible display. It prefers to bury its foot into deep sand. Its tentacles are very short and numerous. Its bright blue color is extremely rare. It may host with many clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Percula, Saddleback, Ephippium and Skunk complex clownfish.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.A spectacular animal that often grows to 24 inches or more and makes an incredible display. It prefers to bury its foot into deep sand. Its tentacles are very short and numerous. It may host with many clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Percula, Saddleback, Ephippium and Skunk complex clownfish.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.A spectacular animal that often grows to 24 inches or more and makes an incredible display. It prefers to bury its foot into deep sand. Its tentacles are very short and numerous. Its bright emerald color is one most widely available varieties. It may host with many clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Percula, Saddleback, Ephippium and Skunk complex clownfish.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.A spectacular animal that often grows to 24 inches or more and makes an incredible display. It prefers to bury its foot into deep sand. Its tentacles are very short and numerous. Its bright ruby color is extremely rare. It may host with many clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Percula, Saddleback, Ephippium and Skunk complex clownfish.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Catalina is a breathtaking beauty perfect for small aquaria. Super saturated magenta coats the entire fish like thick paint. Electric blue stripes make it appear lit from within. Although it rarely exceeds 2 inches this amazing fish commands attention. Males and females are visually identical. It is not unheard of for them to breed in home aquaria.In nature the Catalina goby lives in cool water, and is best kept in temperatures from 60� F to 70� F. Many people keep the Catalina goby at room temperature with success; however the warm waters of a typical aquarium may shorten their lifespan and lower their immune system.Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Celestial Pearl Danio Danio margaritatus Rasboras, Danios and Barbs are a highly sought after fish in the hobby. Not only do they beautifully school in the upper areas of your tank, but they also remain rather small, so they are a perfect addition to many smaller sized aquariums. They are a peaceful fish that enjoy the company of others of its species, a school of at least 6 is recommended to keep them feeling safe and secure, but adding more is a welcomed idea. Rasboras, Danios and Barbs generally grow to a size of around 2 inches, so a tank of at least 10 gallons would be best suited for the Rasbora fish, as they enjoy having enough space to swim around in their school. Planted aquariums would provide them with ample spots to hide in and weave through as they are swimming about. Rasboras are omnivores and should be fed a well-balanced diet of freeze-dried bloodworms and quality flake food. Celestial Pearl Danio Specifics The Galaxy Rasbora or Celestial Pearl Danio is a peaceful fish that grows only to 1 inch in size. They should be kept in water that is 73-79oF, pH between 6.5-7.5, and a dKH between 8-12.
The popular Cerith snail has a pointy black shell with white speckles. It is a terrific algae eater for the sand and lower areas of the aquarium; it grows to 1 inch. It is commonly available from Florida. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. The shape of its shell helps ensure it does not become trapped upside down like some other snails. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The popular Cerith snail has a pointy grey shell. It is a terrific algae eater for the sand and lower areas of the aquarium; it grows to 1 inch. It is commonly available from Florida. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. The shape of its shell helps ensure it does not become trapped upside down like some other snails. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.