Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The incredible Blue Line trigger is one of the most colorful marine fish available. Countless electric blue squiggles flow across its caramel yellow to olive colored body. On its fins these squiggles, so bright they almost glow, dissipate into small dots. It is occasionally imported from the Indian Ocean. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 22 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 200 gallons.
Snappers are some of the best and most colorful fish for the large aquarium. They are usually non-aggressive with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as all crustaceans including mantis shrimp. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They will fight with their own kind but different species may be kept together. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Snappers feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed once a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Blue Lined snapper sports dynamic lemon yellow color everywhere except its silvery belly. Four electric blue stripes run from its eye to its rear body giving it an exciting color scheme. It schools in the wild but is best kept singly in all but the largest of aquariums. Males and females are identical. The Blue Lined snapper grows up to 14 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The Blue Lined tang is also called the elongate surgeonfish because of its long shape when fully mature. It has a gorgeous silvery body with blue squiggles running along its body. As it grows it develops a yellow mark on its lips and over its eyes, giving it a distinct look. Males and females are visually identical.The Blue Lined tang can grow to be approximately 1.5 feet long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 360 gallons or larger.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
This spectacular creature is also known as the Painted Lobster. Alternating bands of deep sapphire and white cover every part of its body, except its long antennae which are pure white. It may hide under rocks for much of the day but will emerge at night time or when hungry. Its long antennae are nearly always visible. It is an opportunistic omnivore and will take any food available, possibly threatening sleeping fish, snails, crabs, urchins and anything else it can catch. If well fed the lobster's predatory nature is more subdued. It is easy to keep, may grow up to 12 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a bright blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Blue Neon Goby Stiphodon atropurpureus The Blue Neon Goby is one of the fish that are on the rise in popularity, being somewhat rare and new to the trade. They are considered a great cleanup crew addition, as they love spending their time grazing surfaces for their next algae meal. They are found in clear, fast-moving streams so their aquascape should include river stones and higher aeration. They are peaceful and make great tank mates to other peaceful community fish. They only grow to 2 inches long, so if they are kept one per tank, we recommend 10 gallons, or if sold as a school - 30 gallons. They almost solely rely on naturally occurring biofilm and algae growth, so making sure they are in a well established tank is key. They will take meaty foods, but this should only be done occasionally.
Ribbon eels are some of the most spectacular eels, but also the most difficult to feed. Initially they may require live food items of small fish and shrimp. Chromis, mollies, damsels, and peppermint shrimp are often used. In time the eel may be weaned onto frozen foods; however, some specimens may refuse all but live foods. We only recommend these eels for very experienced aquarists. Keeping the eel in a small aquarium of at least 30 gallons initially may make feeding easier, and the eel can be moved to a larger aquarium once it has adapted to captivity. Eels should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. Use of a feeding stick may be necessary. We never recommend using ones fingers to feed an eel as the eel may become excited and bite, which may lead to infection. Eel bites should be thoroughly washed and disinfected. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Ribbon eel is also known as the leaf nosed moray because of its hilarious oversized nostrils. Its thin body is brightly colored: juveniles are inky black with a lemon yellow dorsal fin. In males the black changes to bright blue, and females are mainly yellow all over. Males grow to 37 inches, females to 51 inche. The Ribbon eel should be kept in an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.We recommend a tight fitting lid for all eel species. They are incredible escape artists, powerful enough to lift themselves out of the water and push on a lid or squeeze through small spaces. Care should also be taken when acclimating so the fish does not escape onto the floor.Their aquarium should provide plenty of secure rockwork- larger species may topple unstable decor or dig under the sand. At least two caves should be provided for each eel, large enough it can fully hide itself when needed. When feeling secure most eels will poke their head out of their cave for the majority of the day. Eels are safe with all corals, sponges and macro algaes, to which they have no interest.Extreme caution should be used if considering adding more than one eel to an aquarium as they may attack one another.
The Blue Ring angel is a tall bodied beauty with unique juvenile and adult colorations. When young it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body and a white tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; Its body takes on an intense rusty coloration and its stripes extend from its face up towards the tip of its dorsal fin which ends in a point. Its tail becomes pale yellow, the pectoral fins deep yellow to orange, and a distinctive ring forms behind the eye which is ringed in blue. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Blue Ring angel can grow to be approximately 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Blue Ring angel is a tall bodied beauty with unique juvenile and adult colorations. When young it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body and a white tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; Its body takes on an intense rusty coloration and its stripes extend from its face up towards the tip of its dorsal fin which ends in a point. Its tail becomes pale yellow, the pectoral fins deep yellow to orange, and a distinctive ring forms behind the eye which is ringed in blue. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Blue Ring angel can grow to be approximately 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Blue Ring angel is a tall bodied beauty with unique juvenile and adult colorations. When young it is deep blue to black with alternating thin blue and thick white stripes arranged vertically over its whole body and a white tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; Its body takes on an intense rusty coloration and its stripes extend from its face up towards the tip of its dorsal fin which ends in a point. Its tail becomes pale yellow, the pectoral fins deep yellow to orange, and a distinctive ring forms behind the eye which is ringed in blue. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Blue Ring angel can grow to be approximately 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 200 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Tunicates, or Sea Squirts, resemble sponges but are actually very complicated animals related to fish. Their adult form lives attached to hard substrate and filters the water for food, mainly bacterioplankton. A well established aquarium with a sand substrate will help to generate appropriate food. Additions of phytoplankton and occasional stirring of the sand, as well as minimal or no protein skimming, may help. We recommend Tunicates only be attempted by expert aquarists who can meet their demanding needs.Spectacular sapphire bodies and contrasting rings around the siphons make this one of the most attractive tunicates. They are typically small, about 1/2 inches each, and may come attached to macroalgae or similar substrate.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.A rainbow of colors decorates the flanks of the male Blue Sided Fairy; warm shades of hot pink and yellow intermingle, and each scale has a dark contrasting edge. Terminal males have a rhomboid shaped tail. Both males and females have olive colored hoods, but female's flanks are more subdued shades of warm rose. Females also have numerous tiny white speckles on their backs and a black eyespot at the base of the tail. This species is normally very peaceful; it grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
An impressive display animal for large aquariums, the Blue Spine Unicorn tang does not disappoint. Its whole body is a very light slate color with lovely baby blue highlights on its two scalpels and as stripes along its yellowish dorsal and anal fins. When fully mature its tail may develop streamers, and a single horn extends from its forehead reaching at its longest to the mouth. The horn typically begins to develop when the fish is 6 inches long. Males and females are visually identical.The Blue Spine Unicorn tang can grow to be approximately 24 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 360 gallons or larger.Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Blue Spot Jawfish is an exquisite and rarely imported fish. Its body is an intense golden color, with shimmering sapphire spots all over. Its body becomes a deep navy near the tail, with its fin rays a bright yellow to orange. Males and females are identical. It grows to 3.5 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
This uncommon variety of starfish is solid ruby red with bright blue polka dots. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. A sand substrate helps to generate enough natural food, which consists mainly of biofilm and microalgae. It is completely reef safe and does not bother corals. If it is kept with competing animals, such as other starfish, the aquarium must be large enough to support all animals.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Blue Star Shrimp Neocaridina sp Neocaridina shrimp are by far the most popular freshwater invertebrate in the market. They come in almost every color with varying degrees of boldness to provide you with that extra pop of color for your tank. Neocaridinas are a peaceful shrimp whose diet consists of algae and various other organic debris they come across, making them an invaluable addition to your tanks cleanup crew. Neocaridina shrimp are generally easy to care for when provided with the right aquarium set up. They do well in aquariums with good filtration and stable water quality, preferring slightly harder water with a gH of at least 5 to show their best color. Neocaridinas also like to live in groups, a minimum of 3 shrimps is recommended and they should be housed in a tank that is at least 3 gallons. A planted aquarium is preferred as it provides many spaces to scavenge and hide but is not necessarily required.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.The Blue Stripe clownfish is a striking animal with blazing orange color. Its midbody tends to darken nearly black resembling exhausted embers. It has a wide stripe behind its eye and a narrow midbody stripe (similar Clarkii clownfish have a wide midbody stripe). Juveniles may show a tail stripe as well. The white stripes reflect the water around them and take on a blue appearance. It is also known as the Orange Fin clownfish after the color of its other fins. It may have a yellow tail if originating from Fiji and Tonga, and a white tail if from the Marshall and Solomon Islands.
Pipefish are gentle fish related to seahorses. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, seahorses, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species. Most pipefish are imported from the Philippines.If given enough space pipefish do not fight amongst each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. Female pipefish generally have brighter and more contrasting colors than do males. If multiple fish are kept together the females may flash their colors at each other and attempt to woo a male. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch.Pipefish are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. They prefer to eat live foods, and do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Pipefish should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Pipefish feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of pipefish we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. br />The Blue Stripe pipefish is a rare and spectacular fish with an electric blue stripe along its deep orange body. Its caudal fin is rounded and colored fiery shades of orange, black and white. It grows up to 3 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons.The Blue Stripe pipefish spends most of its day out in the open, hovering just above the substrate, but it does appreciate caves and overhangs where it may retreat. We typically receive this fish at about 1 inche in size and it is quite delicate, so an established aquarium with plenty of live food should be ready. Newly hatched baby brine shrimp may be hatched at home and provide a nutritious first food. Because of its very small size tank mates should be chosen with great care. It sometimes acts as a cleaner for other fish.
Blue Tetra Boehlkea fredcochui Tetras are one of the best go-to fish for filling up some empty space in your aquarium. They are lively schooling fish that are quite active throughout the tank, creating a dazzling show of the metallic and bright colors they come in. Tetras are peaceful and do best with other peaceful community fish, preferring to be in groups of at least 6 to feel secure. Tetras max out at 2 inches, so they are best rated for tanks 10 gallons and upwards for a school of at least 6. Lots of natural foliage is recommended for the Tetra to weave through to create shady spots to rest and hide in. Tetras will accept many forms of food, such as high-quality pellet and flake foods, thawed brine shrimp, and freeze-dried shrimp. Blue Tetra Specifics The Blue Tetra is a lively shoaling fish that make an excellent addition to peaceful community tanks.The Blue Tetra shoals and tend to do better when in groups of at least 6. While a great community fish, if the tank is too small or too crowded with other fish, the Blue Tetra tends to resort to fin nipping. Blue Tetras max out at a size of 2", so they are best suited for tanks of at least 20g. They prefer temperatures between 73-82oF, pH between 6-8, and a dKH between 5-12.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Blue Throat trigger is a popular fish with distinctive coloration differences between males and females. Males sport the distinctive bright blue throat as well as lemon yellow edges to their fins. Females have rusty red edging to their fins. Specimens from all locations have similar patterns, but those from Hawaii have the brightest colors. Both sexes have a steely colored body and a bright spot on each scale. It is usually safe with most invertebrates, with the exception of shrimp. It grows up to 9 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Pairs or harems may be added together to large aquariums.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Blue Throat trigger is a popular fish with distinctive coloration differences between males and females. Males sport the distinctive bright blue throat as well as lemon yellow edges to their fins. Females have rusty red edging to their fins. Specimens from all locations have similar patterns, but those from Hawaii have the brightest colors. Both sexes have a steely colored body and a bright spot on each scale. It is usually safe with most invertebrates, with the exception of shrimp. It grows up to 9 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Pairs or harems may be added together to large aquariums.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Blue Throat trigger is a popular fish with distinctive coloration differences between males and females. Males sport the distinctive bright blue throat as well as lemon yellow edges to their fins. Females have rusty red edging to their fins. Specimens from all locations have similar patterns, but those from Hawaii have the brightest colors. Both sexes have a steely colored body and a bright spot on each scale. It is usually safe with most invertebrates, with the exception of shrimp. It grows up to 9 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Pairs or harems may be added together to large aquariums.
Triggerfish are extremely personable and entertaining, and make great tank mates with other fish of similar size or temperament. They will eat invertebrates, especially shrimp, but also other crustaceans, mollusks, bivalves, sponges, tunicates, feather dusters and more. They may move and flip over rocks to search for food underneath. They do not typically bother corals. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They may be aggressive with other triggerfish and two should only be kept together in sufficiently large aquariums.Triggerfish are named for their first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets.Triggerfish are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Hard shelled items are important to keep their teeth in good shape. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are easy to keep and usually learn to eat dry foods as well. Triggerfish are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Blue Throat trigger is a popular fish with distinctive coloration differences between males and females. Males sport the distinctive bright blue throat as well as lemon yellow edges to their fins. Females have rusty red edging to their fins. Specimens from all locations have similar patterns, but those from Hawaii have the brightest colors. Both sexes have a steely colored body and a bright spot on each scale. It is usually safe with most invertebrates, with the exception of shrimp. It grows up to 9 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Pairs or harems may be added together to large aquariums.
The Blue Velvet angel a beautiful and newly discovered species. Its whole body is a deep shade of intense blue which shines when the light hits it just right. Until recently it was thought to be a variant of the midnight angel, but is now considered a unique species. It is rarely available and only collected in deep water around Fiji, and as such may be more reclusive under intense lighting. Males and females are visually identical. < br />The Blue Velvet angel can grow approximately 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time. < br />Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.Has a unique electric blue pattern across its black body, also known as the blue laser and blue streak damsel. These blue patterns may fade with age. It eats any sort of prepared food, and may also pick at algae in the aquarium. This beautiful fish grows a bit larger than most other damselfish and can hold its own against other large, aggressive fish. Grows up to 6 Inches.
Blue Velvet Shrimp Neocaridina sp Neocaridina shrimp are by far the most popular freshwater invertebrate in the market. They come in almost every color with varying degrees of boldness to provide you with that extra pop of color for your tank. Neocaridinas are a peaceful shrimp whose diet consists of algae and various other organic debris they come across, making them an invaluable addition to your tanks cleanup crew. Neocaridina shrimp are generally easy to care for when provided with the right aquarium set up. They do well in aquariums with good filtration and stable water quality, preferring slightly harder water with a gH of at least 5 to show their best color. Neocaridinas also like to live in groups, a minimum of 3 shrimps is recommended and they should be housed in a tank that is at least 3 gallons. A planted aquarium is preferred as it provides many spaces to scavenge and hide but is not necessarily required.
This sponge comes in fantastic shades of azure to ultramarine, which are very rare hues on the reef. It has a rigid form resembling high volcanoes with oscula at the peak. It comes firmly attached to a piece of substrate.This Sponge requires both light for energy and fine filter foods such as phyto and zooplankton, coral snow and small edible particles which may be found in mature aquariums. Occasionally stirring the sand may release some food items which the sponge may capture- most food utilized is 0.1-1.5 micrometers (typically 0.5 μm or smaller). Photosynthetic sponges utilize photosynthetic cyanobacteria or algae symbionts to generate energy from the light, and in return provide its symbionts with nitrogen. We recommend this animal only for expert aquarists who can provide for its needs.Moderate to strong water flow is essential over all parts of the sponge. Lateral flow should be used, and never wave or surge action, or point-source powerheads, which may damage the animal’s delicate structure. Water flow will deliver food to the sponge and remove wastes, and also help to clear nuisance algae, cyanobacteria and debris. Sponge should never be exposed to air, as it will become trapped within the animal and cause starvation and necrosis. It should be transferred while underwater. If damage from trapped gasses affects the animal the damaged area should be cut away. Poor water quality is also not tolerated by sponges. It should be inspected for predatory nudibranch which may feed on it.Many sponges are bright colors, which serves as a warning to predators that they contain toxins. These toxins help it to resist being overgrown by nuisance algae, however it may harm other aquarium inhabitants it touches, or be released into the water if the sponge is dead or dying. Demosponges such as this are comprised of silica spicules which may be extremely irritating if touched; wearing gloves or only handling the substrate they are attached to is recommended.Sponges make excellent tank-mates with other filter-feeding creatures such as sun, flowerpot, carnation and chili corals, gorgonians, tunicates, clams and oysters which would also benefit from added food. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Peaceful
The handsome Blueface filefish has a bright cobalt blue head and a lemon yellow tail. Its elongated body is a delicate shade of lilac to brushed silver. This tri-colored effect makes a gorgeous addition to a peaceful aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger. Tilefish are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened they may quickly dive under the sand for cover. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as tilefish are extremely prone to jumping from open top aquaria - even a small hole in the top allows for escape. We find as long as the fish cannot jump out of the aquarium it is not difficult to keep. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Tilefish enjoy the company of similarly friendly fish, including other tilefish. They are safe with coral and most invertebrates with the exception of small shrimp.Tilefish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the tilefish has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.The Bluelined foxface is an incredible beauty with bright lemon over most of its body and a white belly. Electric blue squiggles run horizontally from its gill covers to its tail. Across its eye is a thick band of inky black. There have been reports of this fish consuming sponges. The Bluelined foxface grows to 10 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.
The Bluespot Watchman goby makes an incredible display when it raises its large dorsal fin which contains several large dark navy spots. Its body may be either deep yellow to orange with darker bands, and bright blue speckles on its face and a few trailing onto its body. Alternatively it may be earthy olive green showing dark bands only when excited, with many bright blue speckles on its body and a few on its face. It tends to be one of the most peaceful shrimp gobies towards smaller goby species, although it may eat small shrimp. Some reports claim the two color forms may represent sexual dimorphism, although it may be a regional difference. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 15 gallons or larger. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.The Bongo shrimp is a fascinating and diminutive shrimp related to the Harlequin shrimp. It is a specialized predator and only eats miniature brittle and Asterina stars. It is also known as the Spiny Tiger shrimp and makes a spectacular addition to a nano aquarium. It is decorated all over with bright red spots like glittering rubies. It grows to only 1 inch.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.The Bongo shrimp is a fascinating and diminutive shrimp related to the Harlequin shrimp. It is a specialized predator and only eats miniature brittle and Asterina stars. It is also known as the Spiny Tiger shrimp and makes a spectacular addition to a nano aquarium. It is decorated all over with bright red spots like glittering rubies. It grows to only 1 inch.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Borbonius anthias is a rare and special gem from deep waters. Its stocky body is rose color with blotches of amber and peach. Its bright yellow fins are edged in magenta, and its eyes are yellow and blue. Each ray of its dorsal fin is an attractive spike. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.As a deep water species they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Juveniles may swim together but adults may bicker. Tank mates should be peaceful in nature. The Borbonius anthias is a special order item; please contact our staff and we will be happy to prepare your order.
The unique and spectacular Bounce Mushroom is one of the newest developments in reef keeping! It is theorized that under high quality LED lighting, particularly with heavy blue spectrum, some Rhodactis mushrooms may develop enlarged pseudotentacles which gives them an extremely appealing shape. Each one is a breathtaking gem worthy of being the centerpiece of a reef! Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The watermelon mushroom is green, and may have contrasting bumps. Its distinguishing feature are lighter green stripes or bands extending from the center. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
The unique and spectacular Bounce Mushroom is one of the newest developments in reef keeping! It is theorized that under high quality LED lighting, particularly with heavy blue spectrum, some Rhodactis mushrooms may develop enlarged pseudotentacles which gives them an extremely appealing shape. Each one is a breathtaking gem worthy of being the centerpiece of a reef! Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The watermelon mushroom is green, and may have contrasting bumps. Its distinguishing feature are lighter green stripes or bands extending from the center. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
The unique and spectacular Bounce Mushroom is one of the newest developments in reef keeping! It is theorized that under high quality LED lighting, particularly with heavy blue spectrum, some Rhodactis mushrooms may develop enlarged pseudotentacles which gives them an extremely appealing shape. Each one is a breathtaking gem worthy of being the centerpiece of a reef! Mini Bounce Mushrooms tend to multiply while still small. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The watermelon mushroom is green, and may have contrasting bumps. Its distinguishing feature are lighter green stripes or bands extending from the center. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
The unique and spectacular Bounce Mushroom is one of the newest developments in reef keeping! It is theorized that under high quality LED lighting, particularly with heavy blue spectrum, some Rhodactis mushrooms may develop enlarged pseudotentacles which gives them an extremely appealing shape. Each one is a breathtaking gem worthy of being the centerpiece of a reef! Ultra colored mushrooms may sport a dazzling shade of neon or “nuclear” color! Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The watermelon mushroom is green, and may have contrasting bumps. Its distinguishing feature are lighter green stripes or bands extending from the center. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
The unique and spectacular Bounce Mushroom is one of the newest developments in reef keeping! It is theorized that under high quality LED lighting, particularly with heavy blue spectrum, some Rhodactis mushrooms may develop enlarged pseudotentacles which gives them an extremely appealing shape. Each one is a breathtaking gem worthy of being the centerpiece of a reef! Ultra colored mushrooms may sport a dazzling shade of neon or “nuclear” color! Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The watermelon mushroom is green, and may have contrasting bumps. Its distinguishing feature are lighter green stripes or bands extending from the center. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Neon, Metallic, Nuclear, and most definitely, Ultra, each of these corals adds a dazzling effect to the reef. Each colony is intensely hued and most fluorescence brightly under actinic lighting. Colors may be hot pink, bright blue, intense scarlet, emerald green, or any other color or combination of colors. This coral is collected from Australia, and may grow peacefully beside another color variety, making it possible to create a garden of rainbow colors.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The meandering folds of this captivating brain coral lead the eye in a pleasing journey. Its shape becomes ever more convoluted and interesting as it matures. A wide variety of textures are possible; sometimes the coral is smooth, other times appearing very rough. The fleshy folds of the Lobo brain are separate and often press together, unlike the similar Symphyllia, who’s folds share a wall. Color may vary, with Australian specimens being more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The meandering folds of this captivating brain coral lead the eye in a pleasing journey. Its shape becomes ever more convoluted and interesting as it matures. A wide variety of textures are possible; sometimes the coral is smooth, other times appearing very rough. The fleshy folds of the Lobo brain are separate and often press together, unlike the similar Symphyllia, who’s folds share a wall. Ultra Australian specimens are always vividly colored and are more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The sinuous folds of this captivating brain coral are like winding mountain ranges separated by wide valleys. It is also known as Dented brain coral, as atop each fold is a small dent where its two coralites are fused underneath. It is very similar to the Lobophyllia brain. A wide variety of textures are possible; sometimes the coral is smooth, other times appearing very rough. Color may vary, with Australian specimens being more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The sinuous folds of this captivating brain coral are like winding mountain ranges separated by wide valleys. It is also known as Dented brain coral, as atop each fold is a small dent where its two coralites are fused underneath. It is very similar to the Lobophyllia brain. A wide variety of textures are possible; sometimes the coral is smooth, other times appearing very rough. Ultra Australian specimens are always vividly colored and are more rare and impressive than those from other locations.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low - Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.This plump, single polyped coral is naturally free-living on the substrate; its pointed cone-shaped bottom helps to stabilize it in sand or rubble, and aids in differentiating it from the similar Wellso brain. It has some ability to rid itself of sand, however it takes a great deal of energy. Colored varieties are typically a beautiful green shade, and often fluorescence under actinic lighting; they may appreciate brighter light than red varieties. Trachy Brain is usually a round shape when small, and may develop folds as it matures.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
