Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Leptastrea is a beautiful stony coral with small, tightly packed polyps. It is also known as crater coral, however when its polyps extend it takes on a fuzzy appearance. Australian specimens are brilliantly colored and strongly fluorescent under actinic lighting. All this combines into a striking display under any lighting conditions.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can be offered powdered or liquid zooplankton coral preparations, and it can also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. It is sensitive to fluctuating alkalinity levels, but otherwise makes a very hardy addition.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Medium Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This spectacular slug comes from Florida and is useful in controlling algae such as Bryopsis. It can photosynthesize via stolen chloroplasts from its algae meal stored in the ruffles on its back. However, it still requires plenty of algae food to survive. It may be various shades of green or yellow. It is very small and may become sucked into powerheads so all pumps should be screened. It is extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
The Lieutenant tang has a lovely olive to pale yellow colored body with electric blue highlights around its scalpel and on the end of its tail; these highlights are then edged in deep navy. Its eyes are orange and behind this are two dark black markings which streak back towards its body. Since these markings are where the fish's neck would be they give it another common name, the vampire tang, as it looks as though it has been bitten.Males and females are visually identical.The Lieutenant tang can grow to be approximately 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons or larger.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
This gorgeous animal may be shades of azure to cobalt blue. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. A sand substrate helps to generate enough natural food, which consists mainly of biofilm and microalgae. It is completely reef safe and does not bother corals. If it is kept with competing animals, such as other starfish, the aquarium must be large enough to support all animals.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 16 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
This uncommon starfish is deep purple to wine color and commonly has more than five legs. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. A sand substrate helps to generate enough natural food, which consists mainly of biofilm and microalgae. It may also consume micro fauna, sponges, clams and small anemones. It is mostly reef safe and does not bother corals. If it is kept with competing animals, such as other starfish, the aquarium must be large enough to support all animals. This is one of the easiest starfish to keep, although it is still only recommended for experienced aquarists.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 8 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Also known as the Multicolor starfish, it is cream colored with scarlet red polka dots on its back. It is usually found crawling on the glass or live rock searching for food. A sand substrate helps to generate enough natural food, which consists mainly of biofilm and microalgae. It is completely reef safe and does not bother corals. If it is kept with competing animals, such as other starfish, the aquarium must be large enough to support all animals. This is one of the easiest starfish to keep, although it is still only recommended for experienced aquarists.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 4 inches and needs an aquarium at least 75 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.One of the ocean's greatest treasures, the Lineatus wrasse is incredible to behold. Mature males have hot pink flanks and yellow bellies peppered with deep royal purple arranged in thin stripes along its sides; two dark smudges in deep navy decorate the body close to the anal fin and front of the dorsal fin. Its eyes are intense bubble gum pink, and its fins flaming yellow and orange with glittering blue spots. Its fins are rounded except for its trailing pointed pelvic fins. Females and sub-dominant males are similar but have fewer adornments on their fins and less saturated colors. It is normally peaceful with other fairy wrasses except its close relatives such as the Red Margin and Rhomboid wrasses. It is a rare import from the Coral Sea, between Australia and Hawaii. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 90 gallons.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Lined blenny is a diminutive darling from the Philippines. Its body is the color of matte mother of pearl; more grey on its head and shifting to beige at the tail. It has a black line just under its eye, and two black dots behind that, giving it its other common name, the Two-spot blenny. The dark markings are highlighted by white giving a beautiful contrast. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 2 inches. The Lined blenny spends most of its time perched on top of or in rocks with its head sticking out, always alert and watching its environment. It is typically reef safe, preferring to graze live algae off the rocks. Groups may be housed together if all individuals are added at the same time.Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality meaty items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons or larger. Live algae is an important source of food, and should be growing in the aquarium before the blenny is introduced.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.This lovely fish at first resembles the Vanderbilt chromis; it is a yellowish green over its whole body with blueish dots running along its flank. However unlike the Vanderbilt it lacks the dark edging to the fins.It is found in large schools in the Indo-Pacific.Grows up to 2.75 inches.
The Lined Clown goby is a diminutive darling with an attractive high-contrast color scheme. Its body is a light dusty grey with two thick darker stripes in a charcoal to dirty navy blue color. Its face and tail are covered in adorable dark freckles. It is also known as the black and white, and the white lined goby. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1 inche; we recommend an aquarium at least 5 gallons, or at least 10 gallons for a pair.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Lined Tamarin is gifted with incredibly contrasting patterns over its entire body. Over a background of inky black are countless snowy white dots arranged in horizontal lines from its nose to the base of its tail. Its caudal fin has a crescent of pure white and another of solid black. Mature fish may develop into males, whose body changes from black to maroon. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Tunicates, or Sea Squirts, resemble sponges but are actually very complicated animals related to fish. Their adult form lives attached to hard substrate and filters the water for food, mainly bacterioplankton. A well established aquarium with a sand substrate will help to generate appropriate food. Additions of phytoplankton and occasional stirring of the sand, as well as minimal or no protein skimming, may help. We recommend Tunicates only be attempted by expert aquarists who can meet their demanding needs.This unique tunicate is typically robin's egg blue. It has a stem with many polyp-like zooids at the end. It may occasionally cover itself with a clear film in order to clean itself; this may take up to a few weeks to be shed.
The Long-Finned Sleeper Goby is a good choice for more peaceful saltwater aquariums as it can tend to be shy. Its long body is has green stripes and dots down it's length.. These fish can tend to jump out the aquarium so a lid is recommended. Long FInned Sleeper Gobies grow up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Boxfish are typically available in a very small size, however their growth potential is spectacular. They require suitably large aquariums to give them enough room to swim comfortably. We recommend boxfish only be kept by very experienced aquarists. Because of the boxfish's lack of mobility they are prone to being nipped on by other fish, which could prove disastrous. Boxfish contain a toxin, pahutoxin, which may be released into the water when the fish is stressed. When concentrated, pahutoxin may cause a frothing effect in the water. Within the confines of the aquarium this toxin, which is invisible, may become concentrated enough to damage the gills of every other fish in the aquarium, potentially causing death. If not corrected in time it may also cause the death of every other animal in the aquarium. For this reason boxfish should never be kept with any fish who may bother them, including groupers, angelfish, damsels, and any fish who may chase or bite them.If it is suspected the water is poisoned a large water change should be conducted immediately and fresh carbon added. Other fish should be removed to a separate aquarium with new water. Boxfish have some resistance to their own toxin, however it can still injure them and it is possible for microfauna in the aquarium to die, creating an ammonia spike. Sudden lighting changes or other surprises may also stress the fish enough to cause toxin release.Boxfish are typically peaceful towards all other fish. They are very personable and can learn to feed from their owner’s fingers. They are omnivores which may feed on many types of sponges, tunicates, worms, bivalves, and corals. They feel most secure when they have a cave or two to hide in, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that so the boxfish can swim in and out comfortably. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. Boxfish should be fed at least 3 times a day. Never feed floating food or the boxfish may ingest air and develop buoyancy issues.The Long Horned Cow is a unique boxfish that grows a distinctive long thin horn over each eye. Its lemony yellow body is decorated with baby blue polka dots, and may show darker tracings of hexagons like a honeycomb. Two more spines are present below its tail giving it a thorny appearance. Males and females are identical. Its tiny mouth is puckered as though it is permanently making a kissy face. It is commonly available from Bali. The Long Horned Cow grows to 18 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The Pearl Toby puffer is a commonly available fish with delightful baby blue polka dots coating its dark caramel colored body.A dark eyespot at the base of its dorsal fin is also ringed in blue. Its fins are transparent, except for its caudal fin which may be the same color as its body to fiery orange.It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.This incredible animal has slender tentacles and may grow up to 19 inches. It prefers to bury its foot in the sand. Most common specimens are cream colored. It can be identified by stripes radiating out from the mouth, and small bumps along its column. It may host any clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Skunk, Saddleback and Maroon complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.This incredible animal has slender tentacles and may grow up to 19 inches. It prefers to bury its foot in the sand. Most colored specimens are shades of green. It can be identified by stripes radiating out from the mouth, and small bumps along its column. It may host any clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Skunk, Saddleback and Maroon complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.This incredible animal has slender tentacles and may grow up to 19 inches. It prefers to bury its foot in the sand. Most ultra colored specimens are bright purple. It can be identified by stripes radiating out from the mouth, and small bumps along its column. It may host any clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Skunk, Saddleback and Maroon complexes.
The Longfin batfish is a large and impressive fish with huge fins. As a juvenile the fins are much larger than its body and it is taller than it is long. It has a light cream colored body with dark vertical bands in a deep chocolate. These bands extend through the eye, shoulder and rear body. As it matures it gradually grows into its fins and as an adult the fins are approximately the same size as its body. Its body changes from cream to silver and the band through its rear body disappears, but the eye and shoulder bands remain. The pelvic fins become yellow and its face becomes large and round. It can be differentiated from the similar Orbiculate batfish by having a dark blotch under its pectoral fins. Males and females are visually identical.Batfish are large and elegant fish with very high fins, therefore they should only be housed in large, deep aquaria to give them enough room to swim comfortably. The Longfin batfish can grow to be up to 22 inches long and we recommend an aquarium of at least 220 gallons and 30 inches deep. As a small young fish it is prone to being nipped on by other fish, however as an adult it may chase and nip at other fish, especially those with a similar shape. This behaviour does not typically lead to violence and overall it is considered fairly peaceful. They are very personable and can learn to feed from their owner’s fingers.Batfish are omnivores which may nip on many types of corals, anemones, feather dusters and sponges. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that the batfish's fins don't touch the rocks or bottom of the aquarium. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.
Longfin Rosy Barb Barbodes semifasciolatus Barbs are a fun, loud personality to add to your peaceful home aquarium. They are quite active in the aquarium, and because they tend to want to school in groups of at least 5, more timid fish or long finned fish should be avoided as tank mates. Barbs are omnivores, meaning they should be supplied with a varied diet of high- quality flake food and meaty frozen shrimp. Rosy Barb Specifics Rosy Barbs grow slightly larger than most other barbs in the family, maxing out at a size of 6 inches. They like to school together so a tank of at least 30g is recommended for a group of younger smaller ones. They like their temperature between 74-79oF, a pH between 6.0-7.0, and a dKH between 4-10.
An unmistakably elongated snout gives the Longnose butterfly instant appeal. Its face is dark on top and white on its chin, and its entire body is solid lemon yellow. A single black spot is on its anal fin, just under the base of its tail. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.The Longnose butterfly is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is aggressive towards its own kind but usually gets along well with other butterflyfish as long as they are all added at the same time. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. This species has the amusing habit of occasionally swimming upside down. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is usually coral safe; however caution should be exercised if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may nip on corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed, but has a very small mouth. It should be offered a wide variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
An unmistakably elongated snout gives the Longnose butterfly instant appeal. Its face is dark on top and white on its chin, and its entire body is solid lemon yellow. A single black spot is on its anal fin, just under the base of its tail. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.The Longnose butterfly is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is aggressive towards its own kind but usually gets along well with other butterflyfish as long as they are all added at the same time. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. This species has the amusing habit of occasionally swimming upside down. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is usually coral safe; however caution should be exercised if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may nip on corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed, but has a very small mouth. It should be offered a wide variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.A comically long snout sets the Longnose hawkfish apart from all the rest. Its snout is about a third the length of its entire body. Against its ruby red body are many delicate rose colored squares. The Longnose hawkfish is best not mixed with other hawkfish which may bully it; pairs may be kept together. We typically import this fish from the Indian Ocean. We recommend the tank be securely covered the Longnose hawkfish is prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It grows to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.An amusing animal also known as the Pinocchio shrimp after its long red nose; the rest of its body is bright yellow with dark spots. It is very social with its own kind and is peaceful with all other aquarium inhabitants. It may clean fish, and is easy to feed on fish food. It grows to only 1.5 inches.
This dazzling urchin has lengthy spines with alternating black and white stripes. It also has some shorter spines in an earthy tone.Other common names include Banded or Double Spined urchin.It is most active at night, and has a voracious appetite for algae, including hair algae - if there is not enough natural food available it may be fed dried algae sheets. It is very reef safe, and only bothers corals if it is starving.Its spines are easily broken and may easily puncture skin causing painful wounds. Broken spines will grow back quickly.This urchin can grow to 12 inches.
This amazing creature grows exceptionally long spines for protection. It is typically black, although sometimes the spines are striped with white.It is most active at night, and has a voracious appetite for algae, including hair algae - if there is not enough natural food available it may be fed dried algae sheets. It is very reef safe, and only bothers corals if it is starving.Its spines are easily broken and may easily puncture skin causing painful wounds. Broken spines will grow back quickly.This urchin can grow to 12 inches.
A bizarre and beautiful addition for a larger aquarium, the Lookdown certainly is unique. Its flattened body is so thin it is nearly impossible to believe. Its scales shine silver so brightly they are mirror-like. Its mouth is set low on its flat face, giving it a permanent grimace. Its dorsal, pectoral and anal fins are elongated and scythe shaped. Young fish have a few stripes along their back. The Lookdown may grow up to 18 inches, and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons for a single individual, larger for a school.The Lookdown is a peaceful fish which eagerly schools with its own kind. It prefers an aquarium with plenty of free swimming space and open sandy bottom. Good tank mates include batfish, rays, gurnards, scorpion fish, leaf fish, jawfish, sleeper gobies and tilefish. They do not commonly eat other fish, however very small tank mates are best avoided. Decor such as mangroves, gorgonians and sea grasses are best used at the aquariums ends, and rockwork kept to a minimum or not used at all. Lookdown are carnivores and should be fed a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood enriched with vitamins and Spirulina. Juveniles should be fed at least three times a day, and adults at least once a day.They may be prone to parasites such as ich, but are otherwise hardy and easy to keep.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The dazzling Lubbock's fairy is awash in a rainbow of colors; each fish is unique, however there are two main varieties. It may have a randomized koi-type pattern of magenta and sapphire, or deep fuchsia across its back and a glittering blue flank with two dark navy stripes along its side. Both varieties, and sometimes females as well, have a bright lemon yellow dorsal fin. Females are mainly bright pink with a black spot at the base of the tail. It is normally peaceful, but can hold its own quite well. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Lunare wrasse is known by many names including Moon and Lyretail wrasse. Juveniles and females are a lovely emerald green with a cyan belly and blue tail, with magenta squiggles on their face. Very young fish have dark eyespots on their dorsal fin and one at the base of the tail. Mature males lose the blue belly to be overall emerald green with brighter pink faces, pectoral fins and edges of their lyre shaped caudal fin, with a bright lemon spot in the middle of the tail. It grows up to 10 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Lyre Tail grouper is an awesome fish, and as its name suggests mature fish have a strongly pointed tail. All its fins have an attractive bright yellow edge. It is also called the Caramel cod after its warm, rusty colored body. Countless white polka-dots cover it from nose to tail, and a thick white stripe runs down its nose. Juveniles are creamy rose colored with a white belly and a dark stripe down their middle, ending in an eyespot at the tail. Its eyes are bright red, and its spots may shimmer lavender under the right light. It is one of the most outgoing of all the groupers, spending most of its time out in the open. It grows to 32 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Lyretail anthias is an incredibly pigmented fish. We typically receive this fish from the Indian Ocean, where the males develop intense pink to red coloration, with darker blotches on their pectoral fins and a high spiked dorsal fin. Females are a bright tangerine orange all over with purple eyes. Both fish have a darker streak under their eye. May be mixed with other anthias species with caution in a large aquarium if it is added last. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single individual, larger for a group.
Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.With its long fins and bright color, the Lyretail hawkfish makes a great display animal. It is also known as the Swallowtail hawkfish after its long forked tail. It is colored shades of tangerine, ruby red and amber; the colors swirl together like molten rock. Each spiked ray of it dorsal fin is tuffed with furry cirri. Males and females are visually identical. It can be kept with its own kind in a suitably large aquarium if all fish are added together. It enjoys hovering in the water against high water flow. It is the safest hawkfish to attempt to keep with shrimp, as long a she shrimp is large and added to the aquarium first. It grows to 5.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A spectacular and unique animal, there is nothing quite like the Lyretail hogfish. Its fins, including its long tail, are edged in dark scarlet creating an impressive display. Its rear body is snowy white with dark speckles. When young its front half is bright gold, and when mature becomes maroon. Males and females are identical. Juveniles sometimes have the beneficial habit of cleaning its fish tank mates, and adults may sift the sand for food helping to keep it aerated. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
The Maculosus is a stunning and uncommon import from the Red Sea. It is sometimes called the half moon angelfish. Its impressive coloration is a high contrast between a dark black/blue body with a curved yellow band vertically across the mid body and a dusty yellow tail. Young fish may have white instead of yellow markings. It may be confused with the Asfur angel, however the Maculosus angel's tail is a softer shade of yellow. Males and females are visually identical. The Maculosus angel can grow to be up to 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Blizzard clownfish has more white than nearly any other variety. Only the very tips of its extremities are orange, with a hint of black edging. It is the epitome of the Premium Picasso variety.True Percula clownfish grows up to 3 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons. Dominant True Percula clownfish rarely accept more than one of their own species in their territory, so singles or pairs work best.The True Percula clownfish pairs best with its own species, but may also chose an Ocellaris as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. Percula and Ocellaris clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. True Percula often need to 'grow into their stripes'; very young individuals may show very little striping, but when mature they have vivid colors and thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
By crossing a black with an orange Ocellaris clownfish this beautiful variety was created. Its color is deep and warm, becoming richer as the fish matures. Some fish may become nearly completely black, but unlike the pure Black Ocellaris, this type always keeps its orange nose.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
The Majestic angel sports some of the brightest colors of any angelfish, and also remains one of the smallest of its genus. It is also known as the blue girdled angelfish because of the blue markings which extend down its face and posterior across its entire belly. Its back and tail are a bright yellow. Each scale on its sides has a dot of blue in the center. As a juvenile it is deep blue with vertical bands, however they transition while at a small size and most of the individuals we carry already show the adult colors. Males and females are visually identical.The Majestic angel can grow to be up to 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Majestic angel sports some of the brightest colors of any angelfish, and also remains one of the smallest of its genus. It is also known as the blue girdled angelfish because of the blue markings which extend down its face and posterior across its entire belly. Its back and tail are a bright yellow. Each scale on its sides has a dot of blue in the center. As a juvenile it is deep blue with vertical bands, however they transition while at a small size and most of the individuals we carry already show the adult colors. Males and females are visually identical.The Majestic angel can grow to be up to 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Majestic angel sports some of the brightest colors of any angelfish, and also remains one of the smallest of its genus. It is also known as the blue girdled angelfish because of the blue markings which extend down its face and posterior across its entire belly. Its back and tail are a bright yellow. Each scale on its sides has a dot of blue in the center. As a juvenile it is deep blue with vertical bands, however they transition while at a small size and most of the individuals we carry already show the adult colors. Males and females are visually identical.The Majestic angel can grow to be up to 12 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 180 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
