White Butterfly Discus Symphysodon sp Discus are regarded as one of the most well-known fish to the freshwater hobby, popularized by their striking colors and patterns. They are a peaceful fish that only become territorial while they are breeding. They grow to roughly 8" and would prefer a taller rather than wider tank of at least 60 gallons. They like their water between 79-86oF, a pH between 6,1-7.5, and dKH between 3-8. They are primarily carnivores, so providing them with high quality flake food, frozen shrimp, and Discus pellet food will benefit them. Because of their eating habits their water must be cleaned more often than other freshwater species, as they are more likely to do unwell in poor water conditions.White Butterfly Discus are bred to show off a beautiful pearly white body with creamy yellow facial markings, making a striking addition to any home aquarium.
The White Sand starfish is well camouflaged to blend into its habitat. It makes a living sifting through the sand, cleaning and aerating it. It may hide just under the surface or crawl on top of the substrate. Sand should be at least 3 inches deep, preferably deeper in order to provide enough natural food, which consists mainly of biofilm and microalgae. It is completely reef safe and does not bother corals. If it is kept with competing animals, such as its own kind, sand dollars or cucumbers, the aquarium must be large enough to support all animals.Echinoderms such as starfish are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums of at least 6 months for both water stability and sufficient food supply. It grows up to 12 inches and needs an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Filefish are closely related to triggerfish and have a similar first dorsal fin which is typically kept flat against their back but can be cocked into an upright position and cannot be forced down. When threatened they swim into the smallest cave they can fit in and lock their fin up which makes them impossible to be dislodged by predators. This fin may also become tangled in nets. Filefish get their name from their rough sandpapery skin and flattened bodies.Filefish are typically friendly with other fish except other filefish. They may nip on many types of invertebrates, corals and clam mantles but will not bother large stinging anemones. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. It should be fed at least three times a day plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality meaty items. They may be difficult to feed initially and do not typically take to dry foods. If food is stuffed into crevices within coral and rock they may be tempted to pick it out.A diminutive darling, the White Spot Pygmy filefish males a delightful addition to a peaceful aquarium. Its earthy colored body is decorated with countless white polka dots. Its large tail and cute snubby snout make it absolutely adorable. It is able to freely lighten and darken its coloration at will, helping it to blend in with sea grasses. Males and females are identical. It is one of the easiest to keep and most reef safe of all the filefish. Groups may be kept together, and it can also withstand high flow environments. In the wild it lives near Japan; however our specimens are all tank bred, easy to feed on frozen and even pellet foods. It grows up to 3 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The Pygmy White Tail angel is a delightful diminutive fish with a dark body and bright white to creamy yellow pectoral and caudal fin. Its lower fins are edged in a brilliant blue and its lips are white. Males and females are visually identical.The Pygmy White Tail angel can grow to be up to 2.5 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons. It is quite feisty for its size and does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, and sometimes towards other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The White Cheek tang is a strikingly patterned fish with a dark charcoal colored body and bright lemon edging the base of its dorsal and anal fins and its scalpel. Just under its eye is a distinctive white smudge, and its lips are black with white outlining the mouth. Its tail is white with a yellow stripe. Males and females are visually identical.The White Cheek tang can grow to be approximately 8 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 125 gallons or larger.Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
The Whitespine tang is a delightful fish with features resembling many other tangs. Its soft, mousy colored body is contrasted with pumpkin orange highlights on its fins. Its scalpel is white, and a white band also circles the base of its tail. Its fins, especially its tail, may shimmer blue in the right light. Its orange lips are surrounded by bright white, and immediately a dark mustache-like marking which curves upwards near the gills, giving the fish a cheerful expression. Males and females are visually identical.The Whitespine tang can grow to be approximately 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons or larger. It can be feisty and should be kept with other fish with similar personalities.Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
This striking variety has white stripes about twice as wide as the standard Ocellaris clownfish. Many fish also have a small chin-strap extending from the head stripe, which resembles a Spartan gladiator helmet. Its rich hue comes from breeding the Wide Bar Mocha with a Black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
This striking variety has white stripes about twice as wide as the standard Ocellaris clownfish. Many fish also have a small chin-strap extending from the head stripe, which resembles a Spartan gladiator helmet.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
This striking variety has white stripes about twice as wide as the standard Ocellaris clownfish. Many fish also have a small chin-strap extending from the head stripe, which resembles a Spartan gladiator helmet. Its rich hue comes from breeding the Wide Bar Gladiator with a Black Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.The amazing Wyoming White clownfish is stark white over most of its body, its stripes having all joined together. Its face and fins are bright orange with pure black edging.
The Y-Bar, or Blue Fin Shrimp goby, is a beautiful fish covered in shimmering sapphire spots, especially on its fins. Its contrasting body is a deep coffee color with light cream stripes along its back. Depending on its mood it can lighten or darken its color at will, from near black to deep pink to bright yellow. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Yasha Ray goby is boldly colored, but quite shy by nature. Blood red spots and stripes cover its stark white body. Its large eyes are bright orange and its fins bright yellow. Its first dorsal fin is a huge spike that may be as tall as the fish is long. Its fin is bright white with a black eyespot and makes this fish an incredible display in a peaceful aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The Yasha Ray goby may be quite shy when initially introduced; a pistol shrimp companion and similarly peaceful tank mates will help it become bolder in time. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Yasha Ray goby is boldly colored, but quite shy by nature. Blood red spots and stripes cover its stark white body. Its large eyes are bright orange and its fins bright yellow. Its first dorsal fin is a huge spike that may be as tall as the fish is long. Its fin is bright white with a black eyespot and makes this fish an incredible display in a peaceful aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The Yasha Ray goby may be quite shy when initially introduced; a pistol shrimp companion and similarly peaceful tank mates will help it become bolder in time. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Yellow Antenna Rabbit Snail Tylomelania sp. Rabbit Snails are aptly named, as these cute creatures have unique characteristics that remind many people of rabbits! Their antennae droop low alongside their elongated snout that works diligently at cleaning leftover food and organic debris. They are omnivores, so anything fed to the fish above and left to the floor they will eat. They will also eat algae as well as plant matter, so they may munch on certain plants. Rabbit Snails are peaceful clean-up crew additions that max out at a size of 3", best suited for aquariums of 30 gallons. They prefer water temperature between 68-74oF, pH between 6.5-7.5, and dKH between 2-15.
Assessors are fascinating fish with an amusing habit of swimming upside down. They are often found living under overhangs, but once established in a peaceful aquarium will swim in the open water and become quite personable. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be avoided. Assessors are safe with corals and all other reef inhabitants. They are peaceful with all other fish and go well with even very shy fish such as jawfish, pipefish and seahorses.Assessors are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp and high quality pellets. It is preferable to feed two to three times a dayThe Yellow Assessor is a bright lemon color with stunning emerald edges to its scales and striking orange highlights on its long fins. Males and females are identical; however males may grow slightly larger. It grows to 2 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. It is usually found singly, however if the aquarium is large enough a group may be added together at the same time. We recommend at least 30 gallons per assessor.
Yellow Banana Platy Xiphophorus variatus Platys are a great option to add some color into your tank while keeping things peaceful. This fish is known for being a prolific livebearer, reproducing often in community tanks in which they feel safe in. Because of this they are recommended to be kept in mostly female dominated groups, or at least a ratio of two females for every male. Platys typically reach a size of 2 inches, so a tank of at least 10 gallons would best fit this fish. They will not appreciate being housed with species that are known for being more aggressive and nippier, so peaceful fish are their preferred tank mates. They also will prefer a well planted tank to feel secure. Platys are omnivores and will take high-quality pellets, flakes, and brine shrimp. Yellow Banana Platy Specifics The Yellow Banana Platy is a peaceful fish that grows up to 4 inches. Their temperature should be between 64-82oF, a pH of 7.0-8.3, and a dKH between 12-30.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, as well as other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. They may also bully or eat small fish, but are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. When threatened or resting it may dive under the sand, but more commonly sleeps within the rocks.The Possum, or Arrowhead Pygmy wrasse, is a delightful fish hailing from the Philippines. Its body is overall rusty pink colored with a large dark eyespot on most of its fins. Large eyes and pouty lips give it instant charm. The Yellow Banded possum wrasse has two distinctive lemon yellow bands, one wrapping around its head behind its eye and the other around its tail. Male and female Possum wrasses are identical, grow to 2.5-3 inches and need an aquarium of at least 15 gallons.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.A popular and commonly available fish with a bright blue body and more or less a yellow stomach and lower fins. Also called the cerulean damsel, it grows up to 4 Inches.
Boxfish are typically available in a very small size, however their growth potential is spectacular. They require suitably large aquariums to give them enough room to swim comfortably. We recommend boxfish only be kept by very experienced aquarists. Because of the boxfish's lack of mobility they are prone to being nipped on by other fish, which could prove disastrous. Boxfish contain a toxin, pahutoxin, which may be released into the water when the fish is stressed. When concentrated, pahutoxin may cause a frothing effect in the water. Within the confines of the aquarium this toxin, which is invisible, may become concentrated enough to damage the gills of every other fish in the aquarium, potentially causing death. If not corrected in time it may also cause the death of every other animal in the aquarium. For this reason boxfish should never be kept with any fish who may bother them, including groupers, angelfish, damsels, and any fish who may chase or bite them.If it is suspected the water is poisoned a large water change should be conducted immediately and fresh carbon added. Other fish should be removed to a separate aquarium with new water. Boxfish have some resistance to their own toxin, however it can still injure them and it is possible for microfauna in the aquarium to die, creating an ammonia spike. Sudden lighting changes or other surprises may also stress the fish enough to cause toxin release.Boxfish are typically peaceful towards all other fish. They are very personable and can learn to feed from their owner’s fingers. They are omnivores which may feed on many types of sponges, tunicates, worms, bivalves, and corals. They feel most secure when they have a cave or two to hide in, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that so the boxfish can swim in and out comfortably. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. Boxfish should be fed at least 3 times a day. Never feed floating food or the boxfish may ingest air and develop buoyancy issues.The Yellow boxfish is a delightful animal commonly available from Bali. Its bright lemony yellow body is cube shaped and covered in black polka dots randomly scattered all over. When fully grown it may become a more earthy color. Its tiny mouth is puckered as though it is permanently making a kissy face. Males and females are identical. It grows to 17.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Yellow Clown goby is an attractive and peaceful little fish. It has a stubby body and a large head. It is nose-to-tail bright daffodil yellow all over. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1 inche; we recommend an aquarium at least 5 gallons, or at least 10 gallons for a pair.Clown gobies are entertaining little fish who spend most of their day out in the open where they may be enjoyed. They typically perch on top of rocks or coral, or even use their fins to stick to the aquarium's glass. This suction cup-like fin allows them to be comfortable even in very high-flow environments.In the wild they make their home in the branches of SPS corals, mostly Acropora, however it is not necessary to duplicate this in the aquarium. If a pair is kept with these branching corals they may use the coral as their nest, clearing away a small area of its polyps so they may lay their adhesive eggs on the coral. This does not harm large established colonies, but may be too stressful for small or weak corals. In the aquarium a clown goby may host with any number of corals that it would not associate with in the wild, making a very interesting display. They do not hurt the coral but rather enjoy spending time within its tentacles.Most clown gobies are scaleless, and their smooth skin is covered in a noxious mucus that gives them a foul taste. Most predators would spit them out, however caution should still be used when combining the clown goby with large-mouthed fish, as greedy predators may still swallow them.Clown gobies are not prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial towards other clown gobies, so we recommend they all be added together to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Clown gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Yellow Coris is a breathtaking fish colored bright lemon yellow all over. As a juvenile it has three black eyespots on its dorsal fin and one at the base of its tail. When mature it has only one black spot at the front of its dorsal fin, and develops handsome highlights of orange and turquoise on its face and fins. It is very similar to the Four Spot Coris wrasse, however the Yellow coris has a solid yellow belly. Other names include the Canary or Golden wrasse. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums for both water stability and sufficient food supply.This delightful animal is a bright sunny yellow sometimes with greenish stripes. It uses its tiny tube feet to attach itself to its environment in an area of high water flow, extending its feeding tentacles to catch tiny floating food particles from the water. If provided with enough food it may reproduce by division. It grows up to 2 inches long.Covers over all intakes are required or the cucumber may accidently become sucked inside. Like other filter-feeding cucumbers its body contains holothurin toxin. This species is unlikely to cause problems, however, because it contains only a very small amount of mild toxin. A water change and fresh carbon should be used if it is noticed a cucumber has died. Echinoderms such as cucumbers are extremely sensitive to changes in the water quality. They require well established aquariums and addition of supplemental foods such as phytoplankton. If it is starving it may shrink in size or lose its feeding tentacles, at which point food supply should be increased.
The Yellow Dotted butterfly is also called the Moon Coralfish- It is named after Selene, the Greek goddess of the moon. Its large round shape is pearly white and shimmers like a celestial body. A crescent of pure black shadows its eyes and also its rear body creating a broken circle. Its fins and tail are bright sunny yellow, and tiny speckles arranged in sweeping lines radiating out of its eyes decorate its flanks. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.This uncommon species is normally quite peaceful and shy, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept with its own kind or other butterflyfish as long as all specimens are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species can be difficult to feed and should be offered a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day. Bloodworms or small live anemones may be used initially to entice it to feed. Soft food may also be pressed into the rock to provide grazing opportunities. Supplements such as Brightwell's Angelixer and Garlic Power may elicit a feeding response.
The Yellow Fin angel is a lovely fish with a deep, rusty colored body striped with dark navy. Its pectoral fins are an intense bright yellow which contrast beautifully with its dark body, and give it another common name, the moonbeam angel. Males and females are visually identical.The Yellow Fin angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. I It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Stunning lemon yellow paints the broad dorsal fin on this dazzling fish. Deep pink saddles drape over its back and head against a backdrop of delicate rose. Females are a bright pink with a dark eyespot at the base of the tail. It is one of the smallest fairy wrasses, and surprisingly adept at holding their own. It grows up to 2.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Flasher wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. Their small size means they are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp. They do not bother corals or anemones. As they are quite dainty we don't recommend keeping them with other types of wrasses or any large or aggressive species else they will be bullied. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first. Groups with more than one male, even of different species, may be kept in large aquariums if they are added at the same time.Females of most species are nearly identical; males may also be difficult to distinguish except when flashing. Hybrid fish are common and carry traits from both species.Flasher wrasses get their name from the male's behavior of raising his fins and intensifying his coloration far beyond his normal appearance, usually to seduce a female or intimidate rival males or other species. At night time flasher wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The beautiful Yellow Fin wrasse is one of the most commonly available of the flasher wrasses. Males have extended dorsal fin rays which may be as tall as his body; there are usually one to three of these rays. His tail is yellow and rounded with two vertical rows of dense spots in bright magenta. Similarly colored spots arranged in stripes run from his nose to the base of the tail, one on his anal fin and two on his dorsal fin. His body is a bright tangerine with a white to yellow belly. When flashing his body becomes golden to red and the magenta spots become turquoise. Females have similar colors to the male at rest, mainly tangerine with rounded fins. This species is similar to the Carpenter’s flasher, except it has a yellow anal fin instead of red. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish, larger for a group.
Yellow Fire Shrimp Neocaridina sp Neocaridina shrimp are by far the most popular freshwater invertebrate in the market. They come in almost every color with varying degrees of boldness to provide you with that extra pop of color for your tank. Neocaridinas are a peaceful shrimp whose diet consists of algae and various other organic debris they come across, making them an invaluable addition to your tanks cleanup crew. Neocaridina shrimp are generally easy to care for when provided with the right aquarium set up. They do well in aquariums with good filtration and stable water quality, preferring slightly harder water with a gH of at least 5 to show their best color. Neocaridinas also like to live in groups, a minimum of 3 shrimps is recommended and they should be housed in a tank that is at least 3 gallons. A planted aquarium is preferred as it provides many spaces to scavenge and hide but is not necessarily required.
Goatfish are unique and active fish that are friendly with other similar sized fish. They will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, mollusks and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their whisker-like barbels. They may be kept in a group if all individuals are added at the same time.Goatfish are busy scavengers and predators which use their strong barbels to effectively sift sand and probe through rockwork to find any scrap of food . This makes them very useful in aquariums with messy tank-mates. They are carnivores and should be fed three times a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood.Sporting bright lemon yellow color all over, the Yellow goatfish makes a flashy display in the right aquarium. The only part of its body not yellow are its ruby red eyes. The Yellow goatfish grows to 20 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Yellow Head jawfish is a spectacular fish with a ghostly blue body that shimmers in the light. Its head is an intense lemon yellow hue. It is commonly available from the Caribbean. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The Yellow Head sleeper goby has a lovely greyish white body the color of dolomite. Its face is emblazoned with an electric blue stripe on the cheek and bright lemon yellow on the mouth and eyes. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Better known as the Melanurus wrasse, and sometimes as the Hoven's wrasse, this popular fish supplies bright colors and plenty of activity. Females and juveniles have deep yellow and aqua colored stripes along their bodies and fins, and a dark eyespot in the middle of their dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. In males the stripes become magenta and electric blue. Males also lose the eye spots, but develop a dark edge to the caudal fin which becomes a spot when the tail is compressed. A yellow patches develop behind his eye and at the base of his pectoral fin, and five lighter aqua colored saddles can often be seen along their backs. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Better known as the Melanurus wrasse, and sometimes as the Hoven's wrasse, this popular fish supplies bright colors and plenty of activity. Females and juveniles have deep yellow and aqua colored stripes along their bodies and fins, and a dark eyespot in the middle of their dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. In males the stripes become magenta and electric blue. Males also lose the eye spots, but develop a dark edge to the caudal fin which becomes a spot when the tail is compressed. A yellow patches develop behind his eye and at the base of his pectoral fin, and five lighter aqua colored saddles can often be seen along their backs. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
The Yellow Line goby has a color that shines brightly as if lit from within, and is also known as the Golden Neon goby. It has a thick stripe along its entire body in brilliant metallic gold which creates striking contrast against its black-as-night body and pink chin. Its color scheme makes it easy to spot anywhere in the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and quite active and friendly with other fish. Cleaner gobies are often seen sitting on top of rocks or using their fins to stick onto the aquarium glass. They may be territorial with other cleaner gobies, however they are friendly with all other types of fish. They are reef safe, however many cleaner animals may pick at the spots on Tridacnid clam mantles.Cleaner gobies are known for being easy to keep; they feed eagerly on any type of frozen food such as frozen Mysis shrimp and other high quality meaty items. Marine algae and Spirulina should also be a part of their diet. They typically learn to eat dry food as well; we recommend they be fed more than once a day. Cleaner gobies adapt so well to captivity that they have even been successfully tank bred. When necessary they may change sex to form a pair. We have found however that they may be prone to external parasites such as ICH.Cleaner gobies exhibit helpful maintenance on other fish, removing dead skin and scales and some parasites. Other fish will eagerly open their mouths and gills to allow the cleaner gobies access to their sensitive parts. Often larger fish will change color and lay still so the goby may roam over their bodies and inspect them for blemishes. Most fish appreciate the assistance from these gobies, even larger predators. However, extreme caution should still be used when adding a tiny cleaner goby to an aquarium with large mouthed fish, as sometimes the larger animal will still consume the small goby. We never recommend adding a goby to an aquarium with ambush predators such as anglers/frogfish or leaf fish.
The Yellow Lined shrimp goby is an uncommon and exquisite fish perfect for small aquaria. Its pale body may be shades of delicate robin's egg blue to as white as snow. Bright daffodil yellow freckles cover its face and form stripes along its body. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 1.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 5 gallons or larger. Because of its small size and shy demeanor we do not recommend keeping it with boisterous species or other sand dwelling fish, which may take over its burrow.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Dazzling golden yellow decorates the flanks of the Yellow Sided fairy wrasse, and each scale has a dark contrasting edge. A large solid amber blotch under its pectoral fins differentiates this fish from its relative, the Blue Sided fairy. Terminal males have a rhomboid shaped tail. Both males and females have olive colored hoods, but female's flanks are more subdued shades of warm rose. Females also have numerous tiny white speckles on their backs and a black eyespot at the base of the tail. This species is rarely imported and is normally very peaceful; it grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.
Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Yellow Spot Fin jawfish is an uncommon beauty. Its body is all over metallic shades of brushed silver, with a yellow mask over its eyes. Males and females are similar, however males may have a more prominent black spot on their dorsal fin, blue freckles on their face and dark tail. Females may be overall a more yellow color. It grows to 3 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons
The Yellow Stripe Cardinal fish makes a cheery and colorful addition to almost any aquarium. It has a bright silver colored body with many yellow stripes running from its nose to its tail. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3".The Yellow Stripe Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It schools eagerly with its own species and often with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food. It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a single fish and 30 gallons or larger for a school.
The Yellow Stripe Clingfish is a fascinating fish in every aspect. Its dark hazelnut colored body is lit up by electric yellow stripes along its sides and a big bright spot on its caudal fin. Its snout is long and pointed helping it snap up tiny food items. They swim with an interesting undulating motion making it very entertaining to watch. Males and females are visually identical. This uncommon fish grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger.The Clingfish's pelvic fins form a suction disk, and it has a unique ability to flatten its body. These two abilities help it hold on to solid objects while in strong currents. It may find shelter amongst the spines of diadema urchins or branchy corals. It does not harm corals but may nibble on the urchins feet, and sometimes pick on clam mantles. They may even help protect their coral host from parasitic bivalves.Gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping in and around the rockwork and corals in an entertaining manner. They feel most secure in an aquarium with plenty of live rock and caves.We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish and invertebrates.Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.They are always alert, watching for a drifting morsel of food; when they spot one they dart out quickly to snatch it up. They are also watching for predators- they should never be kept with large fish as the goby's small size makes it a target for many fish, even those who don't normally eat other fish. Dottybacks, cardinals, sleeper gobies and hawkfish should be strictly avoided.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A gorgeous and very rare fish, the Yellow Stripe hogfish is spectacularly colored with bright scarlet stripes along its body. Between the red stripes it is colored shining yellow, and its belly is snowy white. It has a much more slender body than other hogfish. Males and females are identical. Most specimens are found in deep water in the wild. It grows up to 5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Yellow Tail Black blenny is an uncommon fish with striking coloration. Its other common name is the Black Comb tooth blenny, however the specimens we receive are black only on their front half. The rear half of the fish is bright sulphur yellow which makes an impressive contrast. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 4 inches.The Yellow Tail Black blenny spends most of its time perched on top of or in rocks with its head sticking out, always alert and watching its environment. It is typically reef safe, preferring to graze live algae off the rocks.Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality meaty items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger. Live algae is an important source of food, and should be growing in the aquarium before the blenny is introduced. Algae grazing blennies may be especially aggressive towards similar species, and are best kept one per tank.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.Sought after not only for its super saturated colors but also its peaceful demeanor- it is known to be one of the least aggressive damselfish. Commonly available, it grows up to 3 Inches.
Blennies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, and any other fish who may eat them.The Yellow Tail Fang blenny is an interesting and colorful fish. It has an elongated body which is pastel blue over the front half of its body and transitions to dusty yellow towards the tail. Across its eye is a dark black line, and its tail develops two long trailing ends giving it another common name, the fork tail blenny. Males and females are visually identical; however males may grow larger. It grows up to 4.5 inches.Fang blennies have a unique defense mechanism- if eaten by a larger fish they can use their venomous bite to injure the bigger animal and hope to be spit out. They only use this bite as defense and are generally quite peaceful to tank mates. However, care should be taken when handling the fish in a net, or if small children have access to the aquarium and may put their fingers in the water. Fang blennies spend almost all their time swimming in the open water where they can be enjoyed. They are reef safe and very easy to keep.Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons or larger.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The aptly named Yellow Tail Tamarin has a distinctive bright lemon tail which makes an incredible contrast against its inky black body. Countless small polka dots decorate its entire body in a snowy white. An eyespot is present on both the rear end of its dorsal and anal fins. Mature fish may develop into males, who have much more subtle spotting on their bodies, and deep orange fins with navy spots. It grows to 8.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 120 gallons.
The Yellow Watchman goby is an iconic fish that is an incredibly bright lemony yellow all over. Depending on its mood this color may darken, and several wide bands may appear along its body. Its back and fins are speckled with sparkling sapphire spots. It may be especially territorial towards similar species. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 3 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. It prefers to pair with a Tiger pistol shrimp.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Yellow Watchman goby is an iconic fish that is an incredibly bright lemony yellow all over. Depending on its mood this color may darken, and several wide bands may appear along its body. Its back and fins are speckled with sparkling sapphire spots. It may be especially territorial towards similar species. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 3 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 10 gallons. It prefers to pair with a Tiger pistol shrimp.Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
