These corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of phytoplankton. Specimens collected from the South Pacific have much more vivid colors than those from Indonesia.While leather corals have non-stinging tentacles, it is possible for them to release potent chemicals into the water which adversely affect the growth of stony corals; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. They occasionally retract all polyps and develop a waxy sheet over the surface which makes them look wet underwater; this is a natural cleansing behavior. Given good water flow the sheet will be shed into the water and the polyps will re-emerge. The sheet will break down naturally, but should be removed if seen floating in the water or if it covers another coral.Once established this coral is very hardy, but it may be prone to several types of pests. Snails such as the rapa rapa, little egg cowrie, nudibranches, and worms such as syllid worms (among others) may prey on soft corals. We recommend every coral be dipped before placed in a display aquarium. Leather corals may also be sensitive to the aluminum oxide in some phosphate-absorbing media.The Devil’s Hand leather has a distinctive shape which resembles both a finger leather and a toadstool. It grows on a stalk with a flat cap, resembling the palm of a hand, sprouting out of which are branches, or fingers. It may be shades of tan to muted yellow, sometimes with contrasting colored polyps. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium - Strong Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
These corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of phytoplankton. Specimens collected from the South Pacific have much more vivid colors than those from Indonesia.While leather corals have non-stinging tentacles, it is possible for them to release potent chemicals into the water which adversely affect the growth of stony corals; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. They occasionally retract all polyps and develop a waxy sheet over the surface which makes them look wet underwater; this is a natural cleansing behavior. Given good water flow the sheet will be shed into the water and the polyps will re-emerge. The sheet will break down naturally, but should be removed if seen floating in the water or if it covers another coral.Once established this coral is very hardy, but it may be prone to several types of pests. Snails such as the rapa rapa, little egg cowrie, nudibranches, and worms such as syllid worms (among others) may prey on soft corals. We recommend every coral be dipped before placed in a display aquarium. Leather corals may also be sensitive to the aluminum oxide in some phosphate-absorbing media.The Devil’s Hand leather has a distinctive shape which resembles both a finger leather and a toadstool. It grows on a stalk with a flat cap, resembling the palm of a hand, sprouting out of which are branches, or fingers. It may be shades of tan to muted yellow, sometimes with contrasting colored polyps. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium - Strong Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
These corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of phytoplankton. Specimens collected from the South Pacific have much more vivid colors than those from Indonesia.While leather corals have non-stinging tentacles, it is possible for them to release potent chemicals into the water which adversely affect the growth of stony corals; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. They occasionally retract all polyps and develop a waxy sheet over the surface which makes them look wet underwater; this is a natural cleansing behavior. Given good water flow the sheet will be shed into the water and the polyps will re-emerge. The sheet will break down naturally, but should be removed if seen floating in the water or if it covers another coral.Once established this coral is very hardy, but it may be prone to several types of pests. Snails such as the rapa rapa, little egg cowrie, nudibranches, and worms such as syllid worms (among others) may prey on soft corals. We recommend every coral be dipped before placed in a display aquarium. Leather corals may also be sensitive to the aluminum oxide in some phosphate-absorbing media.The Devil’s Hand leather has a distinctive shape which resembles both a finger leather and a toadstool. It grows on a stalk with a flat cap, resembling the palm of a hand, sprouting out of which are branches, or fingers. It may be shades of tan to muted yellow, sometimes with contrasting colored polyps. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low - Middle Water Flow: Medium - Strong Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well. The Diadema dottyback is intense lemon yellow all over except for a bright magenta stripe on the top of its head and along its back, giving it another common name, the purple stripe dottyback. It is similar to the Royal dottyback but is more yellow. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium at least 30 gallons.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.The Diana's hogfish sports dramatic coloration both as an adult and a juvenile. When young it is a deep scarlet decorated with stark white spots all over and dark eyespots on its fins. When mature it is a glowing pink to peach color with a few white spots on its back and smaller black spots on its fins and posterior. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 10 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.Dispar anthias are stunning fish with bright colors and long fins. Males are a fiery orange with a pink head. Their dorsal fin is solid intense red, and their pelvic fins grow long trailing ends. Females are softer shades of rose and peach. Dispar anthias are one of the most peaceful anthias and mix well with other gentle anthias- they may be picked on by larger, more aggressive species. They are typically imported from the Indian Ocean and Bali. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single individual, larger for a group.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Dog Face pufferfish is a charming creature that has captivated many aquarists. Its adorable face may be marked with caramel color over its eyes and mouth, often with stark white blotches. Its body is usually ash grey with a few black polka dots randomly scattered over top. Its fins may be transparent or yellowish. It grows up to 13 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.Has a stunning high contrast pattern; this beautiful fish grows a bit larger than most other damselfish and can hold its own against other large, aggressive fish. In the wild it may hide amongst Acropora branches, however in the aquarium it will appreciate rock with many hiding places. Grows up to 6 Inches.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The Domino clownfish is incredibly dark inky black all over. Juveniles may be mostly orange when young and will darken with age, occasionally maintaining an orange nose through adulthood. It has been selectively bred so its stripes are minimized to only a single dot on one or both cheeks. The dot may be small and round or long and oval shaped.
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.donut corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many donuts are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although donut corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The Donut coral is one of the most uncommon donut corals, which is also found in a huge variety of possible colors and patterns. Its rounded shape, wrinkly texture, and very puffy flesh are also incredibly appealing. All of these qualities make it one of the most highly sought after LPS corals. Australian specimens are more rare and impressive than those from other locations. Color may vary, sometimes with a contrasting center or stripes.The Donut coral used to be classified under the genus Scolymia, but was recently changed. It is recommended for well established aquariums, as it may recede from any less than ideal condition, leading to possible algae overgrowth or infection. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will benefit from occasional feedings of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc. Some corals may also respond to phytoplankton. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours.Open brain corals are able to expand their tissues to a surprising size, and are often called Meat corals. They thrive under dim to moderate light, and may be damaged by intense illumination. They are often nipped on by fish, especially angelfish. Many open brains are sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, lemnalia and mushrooms; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although open brain corals possess feeding tentacles they are prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The Donut coral is one of the most uncommon open brain corals, which is also found in a huge variety of possible colors and patterns. Its rounded shape, wrinkly texture, and very puffy flesh are also incredibly appealing. All of these qualities make it one of the most highly sought after LPS corals. Ultra Australian specimens are always vividly colored and are more rare and impressive than those from other locations. Most corals are multicolored and may have a contrasting center or stripes.The Donut coral used to be classified under the genus Scolymia, but was recently changed. It is recommended for well established aquariums, as it may recede from any less than ideal condition, leading to possible algae overgrowth or infection. Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The alluring Double Saddle, or False Falcula butterfly, has two wide black stripes draped over its back which dissipate into fine stripes as they reach its belly. It is primarily pure white, except for its rear end which is deep dandelion yellow, and the lemony tips of its dorsal fin. A dark mask covers its eyes and it has a long snout. It resembles the True Falcula butterfly but has less yellow on its dorsal fin. It grows up to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali.This species is normally quite peaceful towards all other fish, including other butterflyfish, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept in pairs which should be added at the same time to a large aquarium. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is hardy and usually easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The elegantly colored Double Striped dottyback adds sophisticated charm. Depending on the lighting its body may appear cherry pink to azure blue. Two stripes in a darker hue run the length of its body, along its dorsal and ventral sides. These stripes come together and darken to inky black at the end of its pin shaped tail, the bright band between them becoming stark white. Its head is a bright golden yellow with fine turquoise and orange highlights on its eyes.It is one of the most peaceful dottybacks and poses only minimal threat to shrimp. It is one of the smallest dottybacks, growing to 3 inches, and needing an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The delightful Dove conch is one of the smallest species of snail available, only around 1/4 inch long. They come from the Caribbean and may crawl on glass, rocks and into the sand to consume algae. After acclimation they should be placed right side up on the sand.
A rare and exquisite gem, the Dracula goby makes a terrific center piece in any peaceful aquarium. Its snow white body is adorned with alternating thick rusty red and thin bright ruby stripes. Its head is a delicate daffodil yellow, and it has a rounded first dorsal fin. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 3 inches; we recommend an aquarium 10 gallons or larger. The Dracula goby may pair with a pistol shrimp, and typically prefers the Candy Cane shrimp.The Dracula goby is a special order item; please contact our staff and we will be happy to prepare your order. Shrimp gobies go by many names including prawn gobies and watchman gobies. They may be kept on their own just fine in an aquarium; however it is especially fascinating to pair them with a pistol shrimp. The goby will form a strong bond with the shrimp and mutually benefit each other. The hard-working shrimp will excavate a burrow under the sand for them to live in, consisting of several tunnels, entrances and exits. The sharp-eyed goby stands guard at one of the entrances and keeps an eye out for threats. As the shrimp goes about maintaining the tunnel and searching for food it keeps one antennae on the goby. If the goby sees danger it flicks its tail, signaling to the shrimp to make a hasty retreat. The goby may follow quickly if the danger is threatening enough. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the shrimp will block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least three inches and plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the shrimp has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shrimp excavates.We recommend a shrimp and its goby partner be added to the aquarium at the same time; it is best if they are placed in a net together and gently lowered to the aquarium bottom. There are three common types of pistol shrimp that pair with gobies; the Tiger, Fine Striped, and Candy Cane pistol shrimp.Unless they are a pair shrimp gobies tend to be quite territorial with each other- if more than one is to be kept in the same aquarium we recommend space enough to accommodate at least 24 inches between burrows. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Pipefish are gentle fish related to seahorses. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, seahorses, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species. Most pipefish are imported from the Philippines.If given enough space pipefish do not fight amongst each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. Female pipefish generally have brighter and more contrasting colors than do males. If multiple fish are kept together the females may flash their colors at each other and attempt to woo a male. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch.Pipefish are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. They prefer to eat live foods, and do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Pipefish should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Pipefish feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of pipefish we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. br />The Dragon pipefish is a slender fish colored in mottled shades of mustard yellow to olive green with dusty grey bands over its back and many fine lines on its face. It has a small pink tail, and some fish may show small highlights of red on their body or face. Their markings provide excellent camouflage as it slithers along the substrate and between rocks. Sometimes it uses its tail to loosely anchor itself in place. Its movements are graceful and provide a relaxing and interesting display. It grows up to 7 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. There have been some reports of this species picking off tiny crustaceans that parasitize stony corals.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Dragon wrasse is a unique and captivating fish. As a juvenile it is emerald green to earthy shades with dark bands and stark white spots. The first two rays of its dorsal fin are extended into high spikes and held erect above its head, resembling horns. When mature it loses the high rays, but develops attractive stripes extending from its eyes and a wide white band at the base of its tail. Its head is creamy colored and its body is overall dark coffee color with a light spot on each scale. It is also called the Rock Mover wrasse for its habit of flipping rocks in its search for invertebrates to eat. Males and females are identical; a pair may be attempted by adding two juvenile fish at the same time. It grows to 12 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
Embodying the delightful allure of a sunflower, this coral opens up to reveal a beauty unlike any other. Its bright colors shine with an intensity few other corals can hope to match. The Dendro coral is completely non-photosynthetic and receives all of its energy by capturing zooplankton. It will accept items such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. Feedings should be as regular as possible, preferably every 24 hours. Unlike similar species such as Sun coral, Dendro’s polyps are usually open during the day time, making both feeding and enjoying this coral much easier. It does not require any light, and may be placed in a cave or under an overhang. It may also be placed near the surface (away from intense light) to make target feeding easier. Weak specimens may conserve energy by refusing to open; in this situation food may have to settle on the polyps for some time before it will eat. Unlike many other corals, each of Dendro coral’s polyps are separate and cannot share food with one another. Each polyp must be fed in order to thrive. Its polyps tend to be larger and more impressive than the more common Sun coral. Pests on Dendro coral are rare, but may include wentletrap snails or nudibranch. If regular feedings are provided it will reward the dedicated aquarist with the growth of new polyps. It is peaceful and should be protected from contacting other corals and their sweeper tentacles. Because of its requirement for frequent feeding it makes an excellent tank-mate with carnation, flowerpot, sun coral, filter-feeding gorgonians, chili sponge, as well as invertebrates such as sponges, tunicates, porcelain crabs, feather duster worms including those living within Porites coral, clams and oysters, cucumbers and sea apples, etc. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Low - Medium
Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Peaceful
Embodying the delightful allure of a sunflower, this coral opens up to reveal a beauty unlike any other. Its bright colors shine with an intensity few other corals can hope to match. The Dendro coral is completely non-photosynthetic and receives all of its energy by capturing zooplankton. It will accept items such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. Feedings should be as regular as possible, preferably every 24 hours. Unlike similar species such as Sun coral, Dendro’s polyps are usually open during the day time, making both feeding and enjoying this coral much easier. It does not require any light, and may be placed in a cave or under an overhang. It may also be placed near the surface (away from intense light) to make target feeding easier. Weak specimens may conserve energy by refusing to open; in this situation food may have to settle on the polyps for some time before it will eat. Unlike many other corals, each of Dendro coral’s polyps are separate and cannot share food with one another. Each polyp must be fed in order to thrive. Its polyps tend to be larger and more impressive than the more common Sun coral. Pests on Dendro coral are rare, but may include wentletrap snails or nudibranch. If regular feedings are provided it will reward the dedicated aquarist with the growth of new polyps. It is peaceful and should be protected from contacting other corals and their sweeper tentacles. Because of its requirement for frequent feeding it makes an excellent tank-mate with carnation, flowerpot, sun coral, filter-feeding gorgonians, chili sponge, as well as invertebrates such as sponges, tunicates, porcelain crabs, feather duster worms including those living within Porites coral, clams and oysters, cucumbers and sea apples, etc. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Low - Medium
Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Peaceful
Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.A delightful import from the Caribbean, the Dusky jawfish is all over mottled earthy shades of coffee and cream giving it excellent camouflage. A large bulls-eye mark on its dorsal fin makes it easy to spot when it emerges from its burrow. Males and females are identical. It may be more likely than other species to consume shrimp. It grows to 5 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Dusky wrasse is an impressively colored fish, equal parts jewel-like turquoise and magenta arranged in a fine alternating pattern of spots and stripes. Its head is deep olive to orange with blue squiggles. Its tail has a distinctive wide band of bright turquoise and its fins are edged in electric blue. Under its pectoral fins is a patch of brighter pink. Males and females are identical; males may be brighter. It grows to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.
As the ocean's most spectacular ambush predators, it is no wonder lionfish are so popular. Their huge fins are used to confuse and herd smaller animals so the lionfish can swallow them whole with their huge mouths. They greedily eat all shrimp many crabs, and any small or slender bodied fish. They do not harm corals, sponges, macroalgae or snails. They generally ignore anything that cannot be eaten. Best tank mates are large bodied fish such as tangs, angelfish, groupers, triggerfish and puffers. Sometimes the slow moving lionfish may become a target for aggressive fish. If added at the same time, and if of similar size, several lionfish may be kept together as long as there is at least one private refuge in the rocks for each fish. Most species are imported from Bali.The tips of the lionfish's fins contain a toxin that can cause extremely painful wounds. The sting may be as mild as a hornet sting or much worse- great care should be taken when handling the lionfish, and children should never be allowed to put their fingers in the water with the fish.Lionfish feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. Live food may initially be necessary, and the fish trained to eat off a feeding stick.The Dwarf, or Zebra lionfish is a popular choice because of its beautiful appearance. Its stout body is cream colored and is banded with rusty red to dark coffee colored stripes which become thinner as they extend onto its fins. Tank mates should not be so boisterous as to steal its food. If the aquarium is dimly lit this fish will spend more time out in the open where it may be enjoyed. Large fish may be very aggressive towards smaller individuals. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 7 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Eibli angel is a popular fish and is typically collected from Sri Lanka. It is overall a creamy white with bright yellow lips and eyes. Fiery red-orange stripes fall across its body, and its tail end is deep velvety black. The edges of the rear fins often shine a bright white-blue in the light. Males and females are visually identical.The Eibli angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Eibli tang has a bold and unique pattern which is especially vibrant as a juvenile. Its appearance mimics the Eibli angelfish, consisting of a dusty grey background with yellow fins and a black tail, orange chest, and red stripes running vertically down the body. The eyes are ringed with orange and the tail is edged in white. This mimicry helps it to avoid confrontation with other herbivores over grazing territory, and also possibly predators which would target it as a tang. As an adult it takes on the color of pale tanned leather, giving it a soft appearance. Its face, is colored as brushed silver, with a dark patch on the gill covers and a dark eye, and the tail is edged in yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The Eibli tang can grow to be approximately 10 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 120 gallons or larger.Members of the genus Acanthurus tend to have very round shaped bodies, and come in a wide range of sizes, some being on the smaller side and some becoming large and grand. This genus contains approximately half of all tangs, so there are lots to choose from. They don't appreciate living with tangs sharing the same shape, however are typically non-aggressive with other fish.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Hermit crabs need to live inside of a snail shell in order to keep their soft bodies safe. Even with many shells available hermit crabs will occasionally kill snails in order to take their shell. Please ask our staff and we will be happy to supply you with some empty shells.A very uncommon animal, it is also known as the Blue Knuckle crab, and should not to be confused for the Blue Leg crab which stays quite small. The Electric Blue crab is a medium sized hermit crab and consumes mainly algae including some hair algae and cyanobacteria. It is considered reef safe, however it is an opportunistic omnivore and will take food where it can find it. It will also eat detritus, fish food, and anything else edible.
Mushroom corals receive most of their energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within their tissues. They will also benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and small meaty items such as brine shrimp. They are covered by a thick layer of mucus which helps them consume small edible particles, and they also absorb dissolved nutrients from the water. They are very adaptable and virtually pest and disease free.Mushrooms are peaceful with other corals so long as they do not physically touch them- they have been known to melt other corals, especially stony corals, in this situation. Different colors of mushrooms often co-exist well in close proximity. It is very uncommon, but possible, for large specimens to close around and consume small animals such as fish.Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. They come in many color varieties and textures. The Blue Mushroom is smooth, sometimes with small bumps, and has a blueish to purple color. Several corals will be attached to a rock. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Low-Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low-Medium Temperament: Semi-Aggressive Mushroom corals are easy to keep and are a popular first coral for beginners, often growing and multiplying quickly. The Metallic mushroom is electric green with protruding tentacles across its surface. These tentacles are long, pink and branching, giving it a very impressive appearance. It can fluoresce brightly under actinic lighting. Several corals will be attached to a rock.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.The Electric Indigo dottyback is an exciting hybrid of two different species, the Orchid and Sankey dottybacks. It has been selectively bred to have much brighter colors and a more defined stripe than the similar Indigo dottyback. From its Orchid parent it obtains bright coloration, however unlike its parent it is an intense sapphire blue to turquoise with a snowy white belly. From its Sankey side it receives dark stripes running to its tail, one from its eye and the other from its chin, as well as a long flowing caudal fin. The unique combination could never be found in the wild, but is now available for your aquarium! It maintains the relatively peaceful nature of the Sankey dottyback and is one of the least aggressive dottybacks; it may be kept in groups as long as there are plenty of hiding places and all individuals are added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium. The Electric Indigo dottyback grows to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The Electric Scallop has blazing scarlet tentacles emerging from its mantle, along the surface of which can be seen occasional bursts of blue electricity making for a shocking display. It can open and close its shell to move itself and find a shady cave to live in. Once it is comfortable it sends out threads from its foot to secure itself. It is a peaceful filter feeding animal which requires additions of phytoplankton in order to thrive. It may be pestered by predatory snails and crabs, and some fish that may nip on their mantles such as angelfish and butterflyfish. It may grow up to 3.5 inches.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It should also be fed meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc.Elegance coral may be attached to rock while young, but is most commonly free living on soft bottoms. Its base is often cone shaped, helping it to burry into the sand. In nature it may be found in seagrass beds near the reef with other solitary corals. It should be placed facing straight up, with enough space that its flesh does not touch live rock. Such contact may damage the coral and cause brown jelly infection. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. Any physical injury may lead to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from damage inflicted by other corals.Elegance is sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, Lemnalia and mushrooms, and even to Caulerpa algae; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. It is also sensitive to poor water conditions and does not tolerate sudden changes in water parameters. It is quite a challenging coral to maintain and is only recommended for experienced aquarists.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although Elegance possess strongly stinging tentacles it is prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The aptly named Elegance coral is unmistakable; waves of lavish tentacles undulate across its surface, dotted with countless sparkling tips. The Australian ultra variety has vibrant colors and the tips are most often purple.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Aggressive
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It should also be fed meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill, pellets, etc.Elegance coral may be attached to rock while young, but is most commonly free living on soft bottoms. Its base is often cone shaped, helping it to burry into the sand. In nature it may be found in seagrass beds near the reef with other solitary corals. It should be placed facing straight up, with enough space that its flesh does not touch live rock. Such contact may damage the coral and cause brown jelly infection. When handling this coral it should be picked up from underneath, and allowed to fully retract before removing from the water. Any physical injury may lead to infection, especially if removed from water while inflated or from damage inflicted by other corals.Elegance is sensitive to the chemicals released by soft corals, such as leathers, Lemnalia and mushrooms, and even to Caulerpa algae; the use of carbon filtration (changed frequently) and regular water changes can minimize this. It is also sensitive to poor water conditions and does not tolerate sudden changes in water parameters. It is quite a challenging coral to maintain and is only recommended for experienced aquarists.Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion; although Elegance possess strongly stinging tentacles it is prone to being stung and damaged by neighboring corals.The aptly named Elegance coral is unmistakable; waves of lavish tentacles undulate across its surface, dotted with countless sparkling tips. The Australian ultra variety has vibrant colors and the tips are most often purple.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - Medium Average Placement: Low Water Flow: Low Temperament: Aggressive
The Emerald crab is famous for its voracious appetite for algae, especially bubble and hair algae and some macroalgae. It one of the most reef safe crabs, only bothering corals when food is in short supply. Its flattened claws are specially designed to pick algae off of rocks. It does not typically bother any other animals; however it is opportunistic and weakened tank mates may become fair game. It grows up to 2 inches and is imported from Florida.
Emerald Dwarf Rasbora Danio erythromicron Rasboras, Danios and Barbs are a highly sought after fish in the hobby. Not only do they beautifully school in the upper areas of your tank, but they also remain rather small, so they are a perfect addition to many smaller sized aquariums. They are a peaceful fish that enjoy the company of others of its species, a school of at least 6 is recommended to keep them feeling safe and secure, but adding more is a welcomed idea. Rasboras, Danios and Barbs generally grow to a size of around 2 inches, so a tank of at least 10 gallons would be best suited for the Rasbora fish, as they enjoy having enough space to swim around in their school. Planted aquariums would provide them with ample spots to hide in and weave through as they are swimming about. Rasboras are omnivores and should be fed a well-balanced diet of freeze-dried bloodworms and quality flake food. Emerald Rasbora Specifics The Emerald Rasbora is a peaceful fish that grows only to 1" in size. They should be kept in water that is 73-79oF, pH between 6.5-7.5, and a dKH between 8-12.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Emperor angel is one of the most recognizable and iconic marine angel fish. As a juvenile it is deep blue with white circles radiating from its posterior, in front of its tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the circles extend into stripes along the body, its tail turns yellow, and a dark mask develops over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical.The Emperor angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Emperor angel is one of the most recognizable and iconic marine angel fish. As a juvenile it is deep blue with white circles radiating from its posterior, in front of its tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the circles extend into stripes along the body, and a dark mask develops over its eyes. This variant from Hawaii is unique in that its tail turns a beautiful orange, instead of the common yellow. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical. The Emperor angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Emperor angel is one of the most recognizable and iconic marine angel fish. As a juvenile it is deep blue with white circles radiating from its posterior, in front of its tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the circles extend into stripes along the body, its tail turns yellow, and a dark mask develops over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical.The Emperor angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Emperor angel is one of the most recognizable and iconic marine angel fish. As a juvenile it is deep blue with white circles radiating from its posterior, in front of its tail. As it grows it undergoes an amazing transformation; the circles extend into stripes along the body, its tail turns yellow, and a dark mask develops over its eyes. Not all fish transition when at the same size, but it usually begins when they are approximately 3-4 inches. Males and females are visually identical.The Emperor angel can grow to be approximately 15 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 220 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Snappers are some of the best and most colorful fish for the large aquarium. They are usually non-aggressive with other large-bodied fishes but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as all crustaceans including mantis shrimp. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. They will fight with their own kind but different species may be kept together. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Snappers feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed once a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Emperor snapper is a handsome fish with three wide deep crimson bands running over its body; one through the eye, another belted around its midbody, and one running through its dorsal fin and curving through the tail. The tip of its caudal fin is also red. The backdrop is stark white while young, becoming rosy pink when mature. Males and females are identical. The Emperor snapper grows up to 31.5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 250 gallons.
Tunicates, or Sea Squirts, resemble sponges but are actually very complicated animals related to fish. Their adult form lives attached to hard substrate and filters the water for food, mainly bacterioplankton. A well established aquarium with a sand substrate will help to generate appropriate food. Additions of phytoplankton and occasional stirring of the sand, as well as minimal or no protein skimming, may help. We recommend Tunicates only be attempted by expert aquarists who can meet their demanding needs.The Encrusting Blue tunicate is very small and lives in a colony with its own kind. They are so small that from a distance they resemble velvet.
Endler Guppy Assorted - Male Poecilia wingei Endler Guppies are one of the most popular freshwater fish by far with their stunning colors and peaceful temperament. They should be housed with other peaceful fish, and if mixed with female Endlers, you should stick to a ratio of 2 females for every male Endler. They are omnivores, so a diet of algae based foods as well as meaty foods would serve them best They reach a final size of around 2 inches and require at least a tank of 10 gallons. Their temperature should be between 64-82oF, pH between 5.5-8.0, and dKH between 10-30.
The Erectus seahorse is a fascinating fish that may come in several colors, including jet black, sapphire yellow or red. It may have dark stripes along its back and tail. Also knows as the Lined seahorse after the fine white lines which may be present on its face. Its head and body are more stocky than some other species. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The lovely Exquisite wrasse is most notable for its incredible jade to emerald green body, decorated with glittering blue speckles. Fish from the Pacific have scarlet highlights on the fins, and those from the Indian Ocean on their faces. A black spot at the base of the tail is underlined with a thin electric blue stripe. Females are colored in more subdued warm shades with tiny glittering speckles, and a large eyespot at the base of the tail. It is normally very peaceful; it grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The lovely Exquisite wrasse is most notable for its incredible jade to emerald green body, decorated with glittering blue speckles. Fish from the Pacific have scarlet highlights on the fins, and those from the Indian Ocean on their faces. A black spot at the base of the tail is underlined with a thin electric blue stripe. Females are colored in more subdued warm shades with tiny glittering speckles, and a large eyespot at the base of the tail. It is normally very peaceful; it grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices. The Extreme Misbar clownfish may be incredibly dark inky black or bright orange. Black juveniles may be mostly orange when young and will darken with age, occasionally maintaining an orange nose through adulthood. It has been selectively bred so its stripes are minimized to only a single stripe behind its eye, which may be full or short. Its other stripes may be short or missing altogether.
Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.The Falco hawkfish is a lovely fish with a snow white body covered in large bright tangerine spots arranged in stripes along its back from its head to its tail. Wide orange bands also extend vertically down its back. Rusty red freckles decorate its face and shoulders, and two stripes extend from its eyes. Each spiked ray of it dorsal fin is tuffed with furry cirri. It is similar to the Speckled hawkfish but does not grow as large. Males and females are visually identical. It grows to 3 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons.
