The beautiful Auriga, or Threadfin butterflyfish, is a striking fish with a bold black mask over its eyes and an eyespot on its dorsal fin. Its body is snowy white in front and lemony yellow in the rear, and is decorated with criss-cross lines. Mature fish have a trailing fin ray from their dorsal fin. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali. This species can be quite aggressive towards its own kind and those with similar color patterns. If several are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a large aquarium. It is normally non-aggressive with all other types of fish. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.Ephippium complex clownfish are similar to Clarkii and Tomato complex clownfish. They may grow up to 5 inches and need an aquarium at least 30 gallons. The different types of Ephippium complex clownfish include Barrier, Fiji Ruby and Mcculloch among others. Species from other complexes in their territory usually causes fighting.Ephippium complex clownfish are best kept singly or in pairs. They may host with Bubble Tip anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor), Beaded (Heteractis aurora), Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica), Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), and Sebae (Heteractis crispa). The McCulloch clownfish is more specialized, and may only host with Bubble Tip and sometimes Sebae anemones.This incredible clownfish has a taller body than most Tomato type clownfish, and its vivid red-orange coloration does not fade with age. It has a single white stripe behind its eye.It was once thought to originate from Australia; however after genetic testing it was determined this species actually comes from Fiji. It is nearly identical to the true Australian clownfish, Amphiprion rubrocinctus.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.This rare and exotic rainbow colored fish makes an incredible display in the right aquarium. Males have a deep steel colored body contrasted against a bright scarlet head and shoulders as well as outline to the caudal fin. Females are mainly peach to rosy pink with intense sakura cherry stripes under the rear half of its dorsal fin. In both sexes an electric blue arc shines under its eye, similarly blue freckles coat its gill covers, and bright lemon yellow coats its dorsal fin and sometimes its back as well.The Australian dottyback grows up to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Dottybacks are colorful and feisty fish with many fantastic qualities. They are not shy, instead always active and swimming in and out of the rockwork ensuring their bright colors may be enjoyed. Plenty of caves and decor will help them feel secure and spend more time in the open. They are intelligent and can hold their own against larger aggressive fish, but are not recommended with small docile species which they will bully. Dottybacks are hardy fish which are easy to feed and disease resistant making them easy to keep. If they are to be kept together they must be added at the same time to a sufficiently large aquarium with plenty of hiding places, and aggressive species not added before more aggressive ones. Best tank mates include angels, tangs, foxface, clowns, damsels, chromis, Toby puffers and large cardinals and gobies. All but the smallest species may be kept with hawkfish, triggers and large pufferfish.Dottybacks are coral safe but may attack and consume crustaceans, especially shrimp. Large species may eat very small fish. They may also eat bristleworms. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, chopped krill, enriched brine shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina fed at least once a day. They usually learn to eat dry foods as well.This rare and exotic rainbow colored fish makes an incredible display in the right aquarium. Males have a deep steel colored body contrasted against a bright scarlet head and shoulders as well as outline to the caudal fin. Females are mainly peach to rosy pink with intense sakura cherry stripes under the rear half of its dorsal fin. In both sexes an electric blue arc shines under its eye, similarly blue freckles coat its gill covers, and bright lemon yellow coats its dorsal fin and sometimes its back as well.The Australian dottyback grows up to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Damsels are active, coral -safe fish, often with bright colors, especially when juvenile. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. They are known to be aggressive towards other fish, especially fish added to the aquarium after they are established; they may chase and bite the other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for damsels which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species. They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods.Damselfish are extremely hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to chromis and clownfish.Sought after not only for its super saturated colors but also its peaceful demeanor- it is known to be one of the least aggressive damselfish. Grows up to 4 Inches.
The Babylon snail has a large cream colored shell with orange blotches and is also known as the Leopard Nassarius. It hides under the sand, emerging at feeding time to consume fish food and detritus. It may attack smaller snails and clams. This efficient clean-up critter grows to 3 inches and is similar to the Olive snail. It should be placed right side up on the sand after acclimation. Snails are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality.
Balloon Kissing Gourami Helostoma temminckii Kissing Gourami, also known as Kisser Fish, is a peaceful fish species that is well known in the freshwater hobby. They are a little more prone to aggression than gourami in the dwarf family, you may occasionally see two males fight by pressing their lips against eachother's (kissing). This fish can grow up to a size of 6 inches, so a tank of at least 30 gallon minimum is recommended for this fish. They are also not recommended to be housed with many others of their kind, as female and males are near indistinguishable. Kissing Gourami graze on algae growth, so scraping the glass frequently is not needed. With that in mind, they may also nibble at plants in the home aquarium! Gourami are omnivores, so they should be fed a well- rounded diet of meaty foods and quality flakes and pellets. Balloon Kissing Gourami Specifics Kissing Gourami prefer their water temperature to be between 72-82oF, a pH between 6.8-8.5.
This coral receives much of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It also depends on absorbing nutrients from the water, and will benefit from occasional feedings of zooplankton and coral snow. Zoanthids are often covered in a heavy mucus layer which helps them capture prey. Many types may be voracious feeders if offered meaty items, especially those corals with long tapering tentacles. Their sting is quite mild, however they can grow fast enough to over-grow other corals, so adequate space should be provided to accommodate future growth. Those species with shorter tentacles typically require higher water flow than those with longer tentacles, and all types will benefit from bright light.Most species contain toxins in their mucus and tissues, including the potent neurotoxin palytoxin, which may be dangerous to humans. It is important not to underestimate this toxin- gloves are highly recommended when handling this coral. Sand Zoanthus polyps may be any of nearly limitless colors, often pink, red, or green, often with contrasting skirts or mouths in a different color. Different color varieties may grow next to one another peacefully, so it is possible to create a rainbow garden. Collected from Australia, each colony is unique.Sand Zoanthus polyps are a type of Zoanthid, also called colonial anemones. They grow in a cluster by budding, and are attached at the base by runners or a mat. Occasionally blowing the colony with a baster or powerhead will help clear detritus from between the polyps and discourage nuisance algae. They are very hardy and are quite tolerant of poor water quality. However, they may be prone to pests such as predatory nudibranch, sundial snails, spiders, some Asterina sp. starfish, and zoa pox infection. Dipping the coral before adding to a display aquarium is highly recommended. Some fish may also nip on them. Difficulty: Easy Growth Speed: Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Bamboo Shark Egg is also known as a Mermaids Purse. Inside a baby shark can be seen growing, and often wiggling around, along with its yolk sack. Its development can be monitored in this way by observing through a light source; however it is very important to never expose the egg to air as this may harm the embryo. It may take up to a few months for the egg to hatch; the baby may be earthy shades with spots or black and white banded. It may be kept in aquariums as small as 20 gallons as an infant to aid in feeding and observation, but when fully grown at 40 inches it will require a 300 gallon or larger.Substrate should be soft sand so it does not scratch its delicate belly. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the shark excavates. They do not harm corals, but may knock over lose decor with their strong tails. Sharks may be sensitive to medication and should never be treated with copper.The Bamboo Shark will consume any crustacean and small fish it can catch. It is peaceful towards tank mates too large to swallow, but may be picked on by large fish. It may be kept with its own kind, however males may fight with each other and pester females.Sharks are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides, clams and chopped seafood. Juveniles should be offered food at least once a day. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.
The Brown Barred sleeper goby has a beautiful dark body compared to most other sand sifting gobies, giving it a lovely contrast against white sand. Mature fish have wide charcoal colored bands on their bodies, and each band is outlined in a shimmering blue. Red polka dots adorn their forehead, and their cheeks have blue stripes. Their fins have even more polka dots and gorgeous black edging. It is also known by the common names of dragon and bullet goby. It may be helpful in consuming flatworms and algae from the aquarium. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Pipefish are gentle fish related to seahorses. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, seahorses, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species. Most pipefish are imported from the Philippines.If given enough space pipefish do not fight amongst each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. Female pipefish generally have brighter and more contrasting colors than do males. If multiple fish are kept together the females may flash their colors at each other and attempt to woo a male. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch.Pipefish are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. They prefer to eat live foods, and do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Pipefish should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Pipefish feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of pipefish we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. br />The Banded pipefish is a beautiful fish with a long, slender body. Alternating bands of rusty red and pale yellow ring the fish from the tip of its elongated snout to its tail. Its large caudal fin is a bright red and white, like a round flag. It swims in a beautiful undulating motion through the water. It grows up to 8 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.The Banded pipefish spends most of its day out in the open, but does appreciate caves and overhangs where it may retreat. Because of its large adult size, caution should be used if combining it with very small tank mates, as some tiny gobies or very young fish may be mistaken for food.
Bass and Basslets make wonderful peaceful community fish and are also coral safe. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for Basslets which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and groups of multiple individuals. There are no differences between males and females. Basslets feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming.They are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen meaty foods, and may learn to take dry foods in time. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.This diminutive beauty is covered in striking high contrast colors and has a charming personality. Warm coffee color covers its sides and even darker stripes add another layer. Its fins are painted bright ruby, with each fin ray being dark black. A dark mask covers its eyes next to a stripe of stark white. A black blotch covers its shoulders and another at the end of its dorsal fin. This longfin basslet may be shy when first introduced but with time will spend more time out in the open. It is peaceful and invertebrate safe, except for very small shrimp and crabs, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. The Banded Spiny basslet grows to 2 inches.
The Bangaii, or Kaudern’s cardinal, is a very popular fish and it’s easy to see why. Its long fins are decorated with countless stark white speckles over inky black. Its shiny silvery body is also banded with pure black stripes. It always holds its fins erect giving it a striking silhouette.The Bangaii Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. Unlike other cardinals they prefer to live singly or in a mated pair and do not school well with their own kind or other cardinals. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but will need time to adapt to dry food.It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. The bangaii cardinal grows up to 3 Inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 20 gallons for a single fish and 30 gallons or larger for a pair.Wild populations of this fish are found only within the Banggai Archipelago in Indonesia and are endangered, so as such we only offer this species when available tank bred. It has been known to spawn even in community aquariums. Pairs will swim and rest together most of the time and may be extremely aggressive towards others of the same species. After breeding, the male will hold the eggs in his mouth to protect them. It may take several weeks for the eggs to hatch, during which time the male does not feed. Once released the baby fish find shelter within the spines of the Long Spine urchin, their stripes providing excellent camouflage. If an urchin is not available then a substitute shelter will be used, usually a coral or mangrove.Males and females are very similar; there are a few very subtle differences on adult fish. Males may have a more square shaped jaw and a slightly longer second dorsal fin. On well fed adults it may also be noted that females appear to have one vent while males have two.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The beautiful Banana wrasse sports some of the brightest colors of all the wrasses. As a female it is overall lemon yellow with highlights of turquoise and deeper orange to magenta on its face and fins. Males have brighter stripes on their faces, and their bodies become a deeper aqua to turquoise. It is also known as the Yellow, or Sunset wrasse. It grows up to 12 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
The Bar or Zebra dart goby is a breathtaking beauty. Electric orange bars are etched along its slender body. Its eye shines sapphire blue and it has magenta stripes on its face. All this over a body the color of mother-of-pearl to olive. Mature fish exhibit dark shading on the face making them even more attractive. They are an impressive fish on their own but look even better in a group of at least three individuals, although we find six or more to be incredibly impressive. It schools well with other dart fishes as well. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Barbouri seahorse is rarely available, but is a breathtakingly beautiful animal. Its coloration may be bright yellow with fine speckles along its back and tail in a contrasting brown and white. Along its snout are fine stripes in alternating light and dark. It has small spikes along its spine, giving it a prehistoric look. It grows up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.Seahorses are gentle fish related to pipefish. They do best in a dedicated aquarium free from boisterous or aggressive tank mates. Dragonets, pipefish, assessors, jawfish, and small gobies, blennies, and cardinals make good tank mates. We recommend avoiding hawkfish, dottybacks, angelfish, and any predatory or large mouthed species.If given enough space seahorses are very friendly with each other and may form pair bonds in the aquarium. When breeding the female will deposit her eggs into the male's belly pouch where he carries and protects them until they hatch. Males and females look similar; however female’s bellies come to an abrupt stop at their tails, while the males pouch creates a more streamlined appearance.Seahorses all have a prehensile tail and ample structures which may be used as anchor points are necessary, such as sea grasses, gorgonians, and Manzanita branches. Stinging corals and hydrocorals should be avoided. Seahorses are affectionately known as ponies. Their colors are often genetically determined, however a well-lit and colorful environment will help them brighten their own colors.Seahorses are coral and invertebrate safe, only feeding on very small crustaceans such as copepods and minute shrimp. Wild fish may first need to be offered live food, however many species are now offered tank raised and are trained to eat frozen food. Seahorses do not take to dry foods, so a variety of high quality meaty items should be offered such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, Tigger pods and Calanus. Seahorses should be fed a minimum of twice daily. A well established aquarium is recommended, preferably with a refugium to aid in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Seahorses feed by picking food items out of the water column in a slow and deliberate manner.Because of the delicate nature of seahorses we recommend careful attention be paid to eliminate stinging or dangerous animals in their aquarium, such as Aiptasia and Majano anemones, rouge crabs and predatory hitch hikers, and aggressive corals such as galaxy, bubble and Euphyllia sp. to name a few. Most crabs except porcelain crabs may present a danger, as do large shrimp such as the coral banded.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.This beautiful species originates from the Great Barrier Reef of Australia and surrounding area. It is a warm caramel color with two stripes, one behind the eye and the other on the mid-body. Its tail may be edged in white as a juvenile and fully white in mature females.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.This beautiful species originates from the Great Barrier Reef of Australia and surrounding area. It is a warm caramel color with two stripes, one behind the eye and the other on the mid-body. Its tail may be edged in white as a juvenile and fully white in mature females.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.This exquisite beauty comes from Hawaiian waters and boasts amazing colors. Bright pink covers most of their body, except their back and tail which are intense yellow. Their nose is upturned in an adorable fashion, and a lyre shaped tail. Males have a yellow bar running down their side and more saturated colors. Males may be especially aggressive, and should not be housed with any other male anthias. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single individual, larger for a group.
The Bella sleeper goby is a popular choice for aquarists who need a hard working fish to keep their sand clean and prefer a fish less prone to picking up sand and carrying it up into the water column. Its long body is comes in variations of maroon, red and orange. These fish can tend to jump out the aquarium so a lid is recommended. Bella Gobies grow up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Bellus swallowtail angel has a beautiful pearly white body with many blue, yellow and black markings. The female has a bright sapphire blue patch on her side, and several thick stripes along her body, tail and face. The dorsal, pectoral and anal fins have patches of yellow. The male in contrast has yellow stripes along his body which turn black at the tail. The face has stripes which shift from blue to black to fiery orange. The Bellus swallowtail angel can grow to be approximately 7 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Angelfish of the genus Genicanthus are collectively known as swallowtail angelfish. In the wild, they typically live in small groups or harems of one male and several females. In the aquarium they are usually kept singly or in pairs; two males may fight each other. They are typically peaceful with all other fish. As they can be collected from deep water, they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Swallowtail angelfish are planktivores, meaning their diet consists of small floating food items such as shrimp. Sessile invertebrates such as corals are not their natural food item, so they can safely be kept in any sort of reef aquarium. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as Mysis shrimp and chopped krill, and also marine algae and Spirulina. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Bellus swallowtail angel has a beautiful pearly white body with many blue, yellow and black markings. The female has a bright sapphire blue patch on her side, and several thick stripes along her body, tail and face. The dorsal, pectoral and anal fins have patches of yellow. The male in contrast has yellow stripes along his body which turn black at the tail. The face has stripes which shift from blue to black to fiery orange. The Bellus swallowtail angel can grow to be approximately 7 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Angelfish of the genus Genicanthus are collectively known as swallowtail angelfish. In the wild, they typically live in small groups or harems of one male and several females. In the aquarium they are usually kept singly or in pairs; two males may fight each other. They are typically peaceful with all other fish. As they can be collected from deep water, they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Swallowtail angelfish are planktivores, meaning their diet consists of small floating food items such as shrimp. Sessile invertebrates such as corals are not their natural food item, so they can safely be kept in any sort of reef aquarium. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as Mysis shrimp and chopped krill, and also marine algae and Spirulina. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Bennett's Toby puffer is a assorted colored polka dots coating its light colored body. The Bennett's Toby can grow up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
The Berghia nudibranch is a highly specialized predator which only consumes Aiptasia anemones. It is very small and may become sucked into powerheads so all pumps should be screened. It is nocturnal and may only emerge at night. Typically multiple specimens are employed to rid an aquarium of Aiptasia, and since they feed slowly it is the eventual Nudibranch offspring which will make a noticeable impact on anemone populations. It is extremely sensitive to changes in water quality and is only recommended for expert aquarists.
Betta - Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Betta - Fancy Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Betta - Assorted Female Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
The bi-color angel is a very brightly colored and commonly available fish. Its body is divided in half with the head and shoulder region being bright yellow, the rear half dark navy blue, and the entire tail yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The bi-color angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A common import from the Philippines and Bali, this handsome fish is mostly black with its tail end appearing to have been dipped in white paint; in the light the eye may show blue. It is a fast swimmer that sometimes chases other fish and may nip their fins. Grows up to 3 Inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Cleaner wrasses are naturally bold and spend their days swimming in the open, often with a unique up and down dance used to attract the attention of client fish. Their natural foods are parasites such as amphipods as well as dead skin and scales from larger fish. Smaller parasites such as ICH may be ignored in favor of searching for a more substantial meal. They instinctively want to clean other fish from dawn until dusk, so they are only recommended for large aquariums with plenty of tank mates. Otherwise they may pester their tank mates so much the other fish may chase and bite them. They have no fear of huge fish, so caution should be used if adding them with fish such as groupers which may swallow them whole.It is difficult to meet their unique nutritional needs, and as such they often fair poorly in aquariums. If they will accept prepared items they should frequently be offered a wide variety of foods thorough the day. Cleaner wrasses are totally reef safe, except with Tridacnid clams. The spots on the clam's mantel may be mistaken for parasites and nipped on by the wrasse. Cleaner wrasses are friendly with every other type of fish, but are extremely territorial with each other and may fight violently. At night time or when frightened they will hide amongst the rocks.The Bicolor Cleaner wrasse has a striking combination of color and contrast. Its front half is a metallic blue and its rear half lemony yellow. A bold black stripe begins at its nose and extends all the way to the end of its flared tail fin. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.The Bicolor foxface is a lovely fish with a lemony yellow tail and a dark chocolate body. Its face is snowy white with a black mask like a raccoon, and black chest. It is commonly available from Fiji. The Bicolor Foxface grows to 10 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.
Goatfish are unique and active fish that are friendly with other similar sized fish. They will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, mollusks and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their whisker-like barbels. They may be kept in a group if all individuals are added at the same time.Goatfish are busy scavengers and predators which use their strong barbels to effectively sift sand and probe through rockwork to find any scrap of food . This makes them very useful in aquariums with messy tank-mates. They are carnivores and should be fed three times a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood.The Bicolor is one of the smallest and most colorful goatfish. The front of its body is bright ruby red, and the rear half is lemony yellow. Snow white stripes run through its face, and there is a small black dot at the base of its tail. The Bicolor goatfish grows to 10 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.Two dramatic colors coat the Bi-Color hogfish- deep rust color on its front half and bright lemon to peach on its rear. Juveniles are rosy pink to burgundy color with electric yellow spots. It sometimes has the beneficial habit of cleaning its fish tank mates. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
Friendly by nature, they are rarely aggressive except towards other parrotfish. They are very active and require plenty of open space for swimming. Their teeth are fused together and resemble the beak of a tropical bird; they are powerful animals and regularly take bites out of the reef, eating algae, rock and coral alike. Soft coral and motile invertebrates are typically safe from their ravenous appetites; however they should receive plenty of high quality food throughout the day. Marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality items should be offered at least three times a day. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Bi-Color parrotfish is a striking fish most commonly available in its juvenile coloration. It has a snowy white body with jet black and bright orange markings. Most notably a wide orange band covers its face and eyes, which are also orange. This band is outlined in black giving it spectacular contrast. A black eyespot on the dorsal fin is highlighted with orange, and orange dusts the caudal fin as well. As an adult it is primarily super saturated robin's egg blue with its features and scales outlined with magenta. Males and females are identical. The Bi-Color parrotfish grows to 31.5 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.
The Coral Beauty angel a very colorful and popular fish. Its midbody and belly is typically a saturated orange to red, while the face, back and tail are a dark purplish blue. Many vertical stripes run over the body, through the orange. Many variants exist, sometimes with more or less orange on the body. Males and females are visually identical. The Coral Beauty angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It is It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
