Wrasses & Hogfish

Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Lined wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are easy to feed and usually learn to take dry foods, as well as have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, and worms. They may also eat several pests of corals and clams including flatworms, bristleworms and pyramid snails. They do not bother corals or anemones.At night time lined wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The 6 Line wrasse is an incredibly bright and feisty little fish. Its body is alternating stripes of neon magenta and deep navy blue. Its face is coral pink and its tail emerald green with a small black eyespot. Males and females are identical. They may bully other fish, especially passive species or those with a similar shape; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. It grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Cleaner wrasses are naturally bold and spend their days swimming in the open, often with a unique up and down dance used to attract the attention of client fish. Their natural foods are parasites such as amphipods as well as dead skin and scales from larger fish. Smaller parasites such as ICH may be ignored in favor of searching for a more substantial meal. They instinctively want to clean other fish from dawn until dusk, so they are only recommended for large aquariums with plenty of tank mates. Otherwise they may pester their tank mates so much the other fish may chase and bite them. They have no fear of huge fish, so caution should be used if adding them with fish such as groupers which may swallow them whole.It is difficult to meet their unique nutritional needs, and as such they often fair poorly in aquariums. If they will accept prepared items they should frequently be offered a wide variety of foods thorough the day. Cleaner wrasses are totally reef safe, except with Tridacnid clams. The spots on the clam's mantel may be mistaken for parasites and nipped on by the wrasse. Cleaner wrasses are friendly with every other type of fish, but are extremely territorial with each other and may fight violently. At night time or when frightened they will hide amongst the rocks.The Cleaner wrasse has a striking combination of color and contrast. Its front half is the color of brushed silver and its rear half an electric blue. A bold black stripe begins at its nose and extends all the way to the end of its flared tail fin. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Yellow Coris is a breathtaking fish colored bright lemon yellow all over. As a juvenile it has three black eyespots on its dorsal fin and one at the base of its tail. When mature it has only one black spot at the front of its dorsal fin, and develops handsome highlights of orange and turquoise on its face and fins. It is very similar to the Four Spot Coris wrasse, however the Yellow coris has a solid yellow belly. Other names include the Canary or Golden wrasse. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.A rainbow of colors decorates the flanks of the male Blue Sided Fairy; warm shades of hot pink and yellow intermingle, and each scale has a dark contrasting edge. Terminal males have a rhomboid shaped tail. Both males and females have olive colored hoods, but female's flanks are more subdued shades of warm rose. Females also have numerous tiny white speckles on their backs and a black eyespot at the base of the tail. This species is normally very peaceful; it grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Flasher wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. Their small size means they are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp. They do not bother corals or anemones. As they are quite dainty we don't recommend keeping them with other types of wrasses or any large or aggressive species else they will be bullied. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first. Groups with more than one male, even of different species, may be kept in large aquariums if they are added at the same time.Females of most species are nearly identical; males may also be difficult to distinguish except when flashing. Hybrid fish are common and carry traits from both species.Flasher wrasses get their name from the male's behavior of raising his fins and intensifying his coloration far beyond his normal appearance, usually to seduce a female or intimidate rival males or other species. At night time flasher wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The striking Carpenter's wrasse is the most commonly available of the flasher wrasses. Males have several extended dorsal fin rays which may be as tall as his body; there are usually two to four of these rays. His tail is yellow and rounded with two vertical rows of dense spots in bright magenta. Similarly colored spots arranged in stripes run from his nose to the base of the tail, one on his anal fin and two on his dorsal fin. His body is a bright tangerine with a white to yellow belly. When flashing his body becomes golden, fins red, and the magenta spots become turquoise. Females have similar colors to the male at rest, mainly tangerine with rounded fins. This species is similar to the McCosker's flasher. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish, larger for a group.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Ornate Leopard wrasse is a delightful fish with incredible colors. Its body is a deep maroon, and each scale is dotted with a large turquoise spot. Its head is brighter orange with broad squiggles instead of spots. Females have a dark spot near the base of the pectoral fin called the humeral spot. Because of its similarity to the Blue and Red Leopard wrasses, the Ornate Leopard is sometimes referred to as the False Leopard. It is usually imported from the Indian Ocean. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The dazzling Lubbock's fairy is awash in a rainbow of colors; each fish is unique, however there are two main varieties. It may have a randomized koi-type pattern of magenta and sapphire, or deep fuchsia across its back and a glittering blue flank with two dark navy stripes along its side. Both varieties, and sometimes females as well, have a bright lemon yellow dorsal fin. Females are mainly bright pink with a black spot at the base of the tail. It is normally peaceful, but can hold its own quite well. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Better known as the Melanurus wrasse, and sometimes as the Hoven's wrasse, this popular fish supplies bright colors and plenty of activity. Females and juveniles have deep yellow and aqua colored stripes along their bodies and fins, and a dark eyespot in the middle of their dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. In males the stripes become magenta and electric blue. Males also lose the eye spots, but develop a dark edge to the caudal fin which becomes a spot when the tail is compressed. A yellow patches develop behind his eye and at the base of his pectoral fin, and five lighter aqua colored saddles can often be seen along their backs. It grows to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.An incredible beauty, the Black Leopard wrasse is a velvety black and shimmers blue in the light. Countless tiny speckles are sprinkled over its back and head. These dots are a subtle white to cream when young, giving it another common name, the Yellow Spotted wrasse. Speckles are more white to blue on mature fish, and are larger and diamond shaped on males; smaller and becoming more numerous on the backs of females. Males will have distinct black on the outer tail margins while females and juveniles tails are transparent. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Dragon wrasse is a unique and captivating fish. As a juvenile it is emerald green to earthy shades with dark bands and stark white spots. The first two rays of its dorsal fin are extended into high spikes and held erect above its head, resembling horns. When mature it loses the high rays, but develops attractive stripes extending from its eyes and a wide white band at the base of its tail. Its head is creamy colored and its body is overall dark coffee color with a light spot on each scale. It is also called the Rock Mover wrasse for its habit of flipping rocks in its search for invertebrates to eat. Males and females are identical; a pair may be attempted by adding two juvenile fish at the same time. It grows to 12 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The unique Bird wrasse makes an incredible display in a large aquarium. Its distinctive feature is its elongated snout. Males are an intense green ranging from jade to emerald with brighter fins, while females are warm earthy shades with white bellies and a dark spot on each scale, and a bright caramel stripe on their snouts. Mature dominant males may develop a bulge on their snouts. It grows up to 11 inche and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The aptly named Yellow Tail Tamarin has a distinctive bright lemon tail which makes an incredible contrast against its inky black body. Countless small polka dots decorate its entire body in a snowy white. An eyespot is present on both the rear end of its dorsal and anal fins. Mature fish may develop into males, who have much more subtle spotting on their bodies, and deep orange fins with navy spots. It grows to 8.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 120 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.Shining gold blankets the back of this incredible fish, making it one of the brightest of all the fairy wrasses. Only very young fish lack this distinctive trait. Males and females are very similar, with males sporting the brightest colors and dark red crown. Terminal males have a rhomboid shaped caudal fin. It is usually very peaceful with other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.The Spanish hogfish is a bright daffodil yellow over most of its body contrasting with an intense violet saddle on its back. Scarlet highlights its fins and eyes making this a bold tri-colored fish. It is commonly available from the Caribbean. Males and females are identical. It sometimes has the beneficial habit of cleaning its fish tank mates. It grows up to 10 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Red Coris is also known as the Yellow Tail coris for its bright lemon yellow caudal fin. Its body is a deep rusty orange decorated with navy blue spots and fiery orange fins. Juveniles are an intense tangerine orange with white tiger stripes along its back outlined in pure black and a transparent tail. Mature males have a light green band on the body like a belt, just above where its anal fin starts. Young fish are very similar to the Formosa wrasse but are overall brighter. It grows to 14 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Dusky wrasse is an impressively colored fish, equal parts jewel-like turquoise and magenta arranged in a fine alternating pattern of spots and stripes. Its head is deep olive to orange with blue squiggles. Its tail has a distinctive wide band of bright turquoise and its fins are edged in electric blue. Under its pectoral fins is a patch of brighter pink. Males and females are identical; males may be brighter. It grows to 6 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.

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Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A delightful fish, the colorful Candy Stripe hogfish is so bright it nearly glows. Super saturated lemon yellow covers it from nose to tail, with contrasting scarlet horizontal stripes and a small dot before its tail. A dramatic dark eyespot is behind its gill cover, and another on its dorsal fin. It maintains its bright colors when mature, typically with the red stripes becoming more bold. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates. It is less likely than other hogfish to bother invertebrates, and even large shrimp may be safe if they are added before the hogfish. It grows up to 4 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The Green, or Lime wrasse, is a uniquely colored fish that is popular in reef aquaria for its ability to control many coral pests. As a juvenile it is as bright as fresh citrus, and when mature is a silvery mint color. Subtle turquoise and magenta squiggles decorates the adult's face. Males and females are identical; females may have lighter colored bellies. It grows to 8 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 90 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Lunare wrasse is known by many names including Moon and Lyretail wrasse. Juveniles and females are a lovely emerald green with a cyan belly and blue tail, with magenta squiggles on their face. Very young fish have dark eyespots on their dorsal fin and one at the base of the tail. Mature males lose the blue belly to be overall emerald green with brighter pink faces, pectoral fins and edges of their lyre shaped caudal fin, with a bright lemon spot in the middle of the tail. It grows up to 10 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. Dazzling scarlet stripes rake across the face and midbody of the Red Lined wrasse. Its pine green body makes a stunning contrast against the crimson stripes decorating its fins and crescent stripe on its tail. Males have the brightest colors, and females have two eyespots on the rear dorsal fin. Juveniles are impressively striped scarlet and snow white with two dorsal eyespots and one near the base of the tail. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.One of the ocean's greatest treasures, the Lineatus wrasse is incredible to behold. Mature males have hot pink flanks and yellow bellies peppered with deep royal purple arranged in thin stripes along its sides; two dark smudges in deep navy decorate the body close to the anal fin and front of the dorsal fin. Its eyes are intense bubble gum pink, and its fins flaming yellow and orange with glittering blue spots. Its fins are rounded except for its trailing pointed pelvic fins. Females and sub-dominant males are similar but have fewer adornments on their fins and less saturated colors. It is normally peaceful with other fairy wrasses except its close relatives such as the Red Margin and Rhomboid wrasses. It is a rare import from the Coral Sea, between Australia and Hawaii. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 90 gallons.

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Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A striking beauty out of the Caribbean, the Cuban hogfish sports dramatic scarlet over most of its body. Its tail and rear dorsal area is intense lemon yellow, and a snowy white stripe extends from its chin towards its tail. Contrasting jet black spots are on its dorsal and pectoral fins. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates, although it is a fast swimmer and may intimidate small fish. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The beautiful Green Pencil wrasse is bright pink with a gold eye when young, but mature males changes to a stunning emerald green when mature. A sapphire blue stripe runs from its nose to its tail; from its gill cover to its tail is also an electric yellow stripe. Along its back is an orange stripe, its belly is a lighter aqua color, and a wide black bar edges its caudal fin. It is also known as the Smalltail and Blue Stripe wrasse. It grows to 4 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Coris wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp; however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They are often employed to eat pests of corals and clams including flatworms, fireworms, Montipora eating nudibranches, and pyramid snails; they may occasionally clean their fish tank mates. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses.At night time or when threatened Coris wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in. The aptly named Peacock wrasse is a striking beauty decorated with shining turquoise spots, earning it the name Argus wrasse after the Greek monster Argus, said to possess 100 eyes. An interlocking chain link pattern in stunning magenta covers its entire body and fins. On its face the magenta is arranged as squiggles, with a distinct green trapezoid shape under its eye. On its tail its spots become smaller towards the fin's end, and the top and bottom tips are dark. Juveniles and females are more subtly colored rusty magenta with an eyespot on the dorsal fin and at the base of the tail. It grows to 4.5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.

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Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.

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