Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.A rare find from the Caribbean, the Creole fish is a beautiful treasure. Its body may be shades of delicate lavender to olive, with a nearly black dorsal and caudal fins and pink belly. A dark red spot is at the base of each pectoral fin, and three white spots along its back. Because of its large size we don't recommend mixing it with any diminutive fish, as it may eat or bully them. Its size allows it to enjoy krill and chopped silversides as part of its diet. It is actually a member of the grouper family, and is quite hardy. It grows up to 12 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 100 gallons.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A rare and exquisite fish, the Crescent, or Black Spot hogfish, makes a spectacular addition. It has thick stripes running from its nose to its tail in alternating intense scarlet red and snowy white. At the base of its tail is a large black spot, and the caudal fin is stark white and edged in red, creating the crescent. A single black eyespot is located on its gill cover. With its active personality and dramatic coloration this fish is an exceptional treasure. The large black spot on its tail helps to differentiate it from the similar Peppermint hogfish. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates. It is less likely than other hogfish to bother invertebrates, and even large shrimp may be safe if they are added before the hogfish. It grows up to 4.5 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
The Tridacna clams are exquisitely colored, very uncommon and highly sought after. They make incredible display animals and thrive under reef conditions. They are peaceful and do not bother any other animal. If threatened they can close their shell tightly. Healthy animals should have a strong response if shadowed or touched, although once established they may become conditioned and show less inclination to close. They will attach themselves to rock with threads from the foot- it is of utmost importance the foot is never damaged as this may lead to the clam's death. Some species may gradually dig themselves into the rock over months or years.Tridacna clams receive most of their energy from the light. Their lighting needs should not be underestimated, exceeding that of even the most demanding corals. Metal halide is recommended over any other lighting method. Regular additions of phytoplankton may also help, especially for very small individuals. Monitoring of alkalinity and calcium is important for continued shell growth. We recommend Tridacna clams only for experienced aquarists with well established aquariums.Best tank-mates are very peaceful animals which will not bite or sting the clam. Angelfish, pufferfish, butterflies and the like are not recommended. Pests such as pyramid snails are sometimes seen which may attack the foot. Some cleaning animals such as cleaner wrasse may inadvertently pester clams to death.This is one of the smallest of the clams, growing to only 6 inches. It comes from very shallow water and requires the most intense lighting of any Tridacna clam. Its shell may have small scutes which may be worn away as it burrows into the rock. Crocea typically have incredibly bright colored mantels, often purple, green, or blue. Higher grade specimens have brighter colors and more exotic patterns. It is related to Maxima but stays smaller and has less pronounced scutes than the Maxima.
The Tridacna clams are exquisitely colored, very uncommon and highly sought after. They make incredible display animals and thrive under reef conditions. They are peaceful and do not bother any other animal. If threatened they can close their shell tightly. Healthy animals should have a strong response if shadowed or touched, although once established they may become conditioned and show less inclination to close. They will attach themselves to rock with threads from the foot- it is of utmost importance the foot is never damaged as this may lead to the clam's death. Some species may gradually dig themselves into the rock over months or years.Tridacna clams receive most of their energy from the light. Their lighting needs should not be underestimated, exceeding that of even the most demanding corals. Metal halide is recommended over any other lighting method. Regular additions of phytoplankton may also help, especially for very small individuals. Monitoring of alkalinity and calcium is important for continued shell growth. We recommend Tridacna clams only for experienced aquarists with well established aquariums.Best tank-mates are very peaceful animals which will not bite or sting the clam. Angelfish, pufferfish, butterflies and the like are not recommended. Pests such as pyramid snails are sometimes seen which may attack the foot. Some cleaning animals such as cleaner wrasse may inadvertently pester clams to death.This is one of the smallest of the clams, growing to only 6 inches. It comes from very shallow water and requires the most intense lighting of any Tridacna clam. Its shell may have small scutes which may be worn away as it burrows into the rock. Crocea typically have incredibly bright colored mantels, often purple, green, or blue. Higher grade specimens have brighter colors and more exotic patterns. It is related to Maxima but stays smaller and has less pronounced scutes than the Maxima.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A striking beauty out of the Caribbean, the Cuban hogfish sports dramatic scarlet over most of its body. Its tail and rear dorsal area is intense lemon yellow, and a snowy white stripe extends from its chin towards its tail. Contrasting jet black spots are on its dorsal and pectoral fins. Males and females are identical. It is one of the smallest and most peaceful of the hogfish, rarely bothering its fish tank mates, although it is a fast swimmer and may intimidate small fish. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
A fairly new animal to the captive aquarium scene, the Cup coral makes a very interesting addition. It is usually orange, with translucent tentacles which emerge in dim lighting.The Cup coral is completely non-photosynthetic and receives all of its energy by capturing zooplankton. It will accept items such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. Feedings should be as regular as possible, preferably at least every 24 hours. It will open its polyps with reduced lighting or when it detects food in the water. In the wild it lives attached to rocks. It does not require any light, and may be placed in a cave or under an overhang. It may also be placed near the surface (away from intense light) to make target feeding easier.Weak specimens may conserve energy by refusing to open; in this situation food may have to settle on the polyps for some time before it will eat. The care of Cup coral is similar to that of the superficially similar Sun and Dendrophyllia corals, as it too requires an intensive feeding regimen. Pests on Cup coral are rare, but may include wentletrap snails or nudibranch. If regular feedings are provided it will reward the dedicated aquarist with growth and good polyp extention. It does not become colonial, and only reproduces sexually. It is semi-aggressive and should be protected from contacting other corals.Because of its requirement for frequent feeding it makes an excellent tank-mate with sun coral, carnation, flowerpot, filter-feeding gorgonians, chili sponge, as well as invertebrates such as sponges, tunicates, porcelain crabs, feather duster worms including those living within Porites coral, clams and oysters, cucumbers and sea apples, etc. Difficulty: Advanced Growth Speed: Slow Lighting: Low - High Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: High Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
The Curious Wormfish is indeed an odd looking fish, but beautiful as well. Its long slender body is shades of intense red, striking orange and electric blue. When young they are very thin and especially vulnerable to being bullied or eaten. By the time they are fully grown around 5 inches long their body becomes thicker and the fish stronger, however they are still quite thin compared to most fish and should never be kept with large mouthed tank mates, including sleeper gobies, less they be swallowed whole. They have an enchanting swimming motion of undulating their entire body through the water. When fully grown they may enjoy eating half shell clams along with other smaller meaty items. Males and females are visually identical. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons. Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Resembling a bunch of grapes, these eggs will soon hatch into tiny baby Cuttlefish. They will need expert care in order to grow and thrive, and are recommended only for very experienced aquarists with a dedicated aquarium. As the young animals grow they may fight or become cannibalistic, so separation may be necessary. It is normal for the babies not to eat for the first 2-3 days, but after that they will need frequent feeding. Amphipods, Mysis shrimp, and baby livebearer fish make good first foods.Cuttlefish can recognize and respond to their owner, quickly becoming a real pet. Covers over all intakes are required as the curious Cuttlefish may insert an arm into the pump as it explores its environment. Some rockwork with a cave and plenty of open space to swim are appreciated, as is decor such as sea grasses and coral; snails are usually ignored. Cuttlefish prefer live prey, and are efficient predators shrimp, crabs and fish. In time they may learn to accept frozen food such as krill. Freshwater feeder animals such as goldfish should never be used. They should be fed frequently, and require very clean, well oxygenated water. An efficient protein skimmer is necessary; ideal water temperature is 78-80F. They are extremely sensitive to changes in water quality. Stressed specimens may release an ink into the water.Our Cuttlefish egg batches come from the Philippines and may grow approximately 4 inches. We recommend an aquarium no smaller than 50 gallons, preferably larger.
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Cyphastrea coral is commonly known as Meteor Shower; its polpys appear to burst forth from the crust below, as if blown out by a falling meteorite. Ultra colored corals are brightly hued, often with two colors or a much more intensely saturated color than usual. Cyphastrea is a type of moon coral with small polyps and obvious tentacles that extend like a star or flower around its mouth. It comes in both encrusting and branching forms.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Easy
Growth Speed: Medium
Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Cyphastrea coral is commonly known as Meteor Shower; its polpys appear to burst forth from the crust below, as if blown out by a falling meteorite. Ultra colored corals are brightly hued, often with two colors or a much more intensely saturated color than usual. Cyphastrea is a type of moon coral with small polyps and obvious tentacles that extend like a star or flower around its mouth. It comes in both encrusting and branching forms.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Easy
Growth Speed: Medium
Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Cyphastrea coral is commonly known as Meteor Shower; its polpys appear to burst forth from the crust below, as if blown out by a falling meteorite. Ultra colored corals are brightly hued, often with two colors or a much more intensely saturated color than usual. Cyphastrea is a type of moon coral with small polyps and obvious tentacles that extend like a star or flower around its mouth. It comes in both encrusting and branching forms.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Easy
Growth Speed: Medium
Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Cyphastrea coral is commonly known as Meteor Shower; its polpys appear to burst forth from the crust below, as if blown out by a falling meteorite. It is a type of moon coral with small polyps and obvious tentacles that extend like a star or flower around its mouth. It comes in both encrusting and branching forms.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Easy
Growth Speed: Medium
Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Cyphastrea coral is commonly known as Meteor Shower; its polpys appear to burst forth from the crust below, as if blown out by a falling meteorite. Ultra colored corals are brightly hued, often with two colors or a much more intensely saturated color than usual. Cyphastrea is a type of moon coral with small polyps and obvious tentacles that extend like a star or flower around its mouth. It comes in both encrusting and branching forms.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Easy
Growth Speed: Medium
Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Aggressive
Faviidae, or Closed Brain corals, are quite hardy and adaptable, making them a great first introduction to stony corals. Their wide array of possible color combinations make them popular with experienced reef-keepers as well. They are tolerant of less-than-perfect water quality and are not prone to pests.This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It can also be offered zooplankton coral preparations, rotifers, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, etc. Its transparent feeding tentacles extend mainly at night, although it can learn to feed during daylight hours. Colonies with very bright colors and flat forms thrive under bright light and strong water flow; rounded, dome shapes need moderate light and flow.Some species are able to produce copious amounts of clear mucus and should be rinsed well before adding to a display aquarium. Space should be provided between corals to allow for growth and expansion, as its long sweeper tentacles have a strong sting.Cyphastrea coral is commonly known as Meteor Shower; its polpys appear to burst forth from the crust below, as if blown out by a falling meteorite. Ultra colored corals are brightly hued, often with two colors or a much more intensely saturated color than usual. Cyphastrea is a type of moon coral with small polyps and obvious tentacles that extend like a star or flower around its mouth. It comes in both encrusting and branching forms.Water flow is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Constant laminar flow is very damaging and could cause death of the coral. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly.
Difficulty: Easy
Growth Speed: Medium
Lighting: Medium - High
Average Placement: Middle - High
Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Aggressive
D-D Coral Viewing Glasses
Overview
See true coral colours under blue-heavy reef lighting. These orange-tinted glasses filter actinic blue light so fish and corals appear in a more natural balance while glare is reduced and detail pops during inspection, photography, or frag placement.
Features
Orange lenses filter excess actinic/blue for natural colour rendering
UVA protection with reduced reflected and scattered light
Comfortable everyday fit for quick tank checks and photo sessions
Useful beyond the tank to cut screen and surface glare
Specifications
Lens tint: orange
Protection: UVA
Use case: view tanks lit by blue/actinic LEDs or T5s
UPC/EAN: 5060444553420
D-D Jumpguard Brace Bar Set
Overview
Add extra rigidity to Jumpguard frames on larger aquariums or when you add cutouts for lights, overflows or plumbing. Brace bars stop the long edges from pulling inward and keep the frame square for a tight professional fit.
Features
Improves frame stability across wide spans or multiple cutouts
Simple push-fit assembly with T-connectors and clips
Matches the Jumpguard profile and finish
Specifications
Includes: 2 x brace bars 900 x 12 x 8 mm, 2 x T-piece connectors, 6 x connector clips
Use: add as needed when fitting cutout sets or spanning larger tanks
UPC/EAN: 5060444552072
What’s included with
2 x 900 mm brace bars
2 x T-connectors
6 x brace clips
D-D Jumpguard Feeding Portal
Overview
Feed cleanly through your mesh lid without lifting an edge or disturbing livestock. The D-D Jumpguard Feeding Portal clips directly onto the mesh of D-D Jumpguard DIY Aquarium Covers or most third-party mesh screens. Its slim ring and removable lid keep the surface sealed between feedings while preserving your tank’s clean look.
Features
Easy clip-together installation
Slim low-profile design
Removable lid for quick, tidy feeding
50 mm diameter opening for convenient access
Universal fit for most screen/mesh aquarium lids
Place anywhere on the mesh surface to suit your layout
Specifications
Opening size: 50 mm diameter
Installation: Clips directly to mesh on Jumpguard or similar screen covers
Placement: Can be installed anywhere on the mesh surface
Lid: Removable cap
Compatibility: Most mesh/screen aquarium lids (saltwater or freshwater)
Manufacturer/Supplier code: JFP001
UPC/EAN: 5060078024495
D-D Jumpguard Flexible Cut-Out Set
Overview
Create custom large cutouts in your Jumpguard frame for oversized overflow boxes, light brackets or pipework. The Flexi-cutout set supplies standard and reverse corners to rebuild the frame cleanly around bigger apertures not covered by the Multi Cut-Out options.
Features
Two corner styles for flexible layout around large obstructions
Maintains a neat square perimeter after custom cutting
Recommended to add brace bars when creating large openings
Specifications
Includes: 1 pair standard corners and 1 pair reverse corners
Compatibility: all D-D Jumpguard Pro frames
UPC/EAN: 5060444552058
What’s included with
2 x standard corners
2 x reverse corners
D-D Jumpguard Multi Cut-Out Set
Overview
Choose from three neatly engineered cutout options to route light brackets, cables and pipework through your Jumpguard lid while keeping the frame square and tidy. Ideal for most small to medium openings; add a Flexi set for oversized boxes.
Features
Three modular solutions for common bracket and cable offsets
Clean factory corners and a rigid cutout piece for a pro finish
For larger apertures, pair with a Brace Bar Set to retain rigidity
Specifications
Includes: 1 pair 15 mm offset corners, 1 pair 40 mm offset corners, 1 x 40 x 120 mm rigid lighting bracket/cutout
Compatibility: all D-D Jumpguard Pro frames
UPC/EAN: 5060444552065
What’s included with
2 x 15 mm offset corners
2 x 40 mm offset corners
1 x 40 x 120 mm rigid cutout piece
D-D Jumpguard Tank Cover Kit (120cm x 75cm)
Overview
Protect prized fish from jumping with a strong low-visibility screen top. The Jumpguard Pro 120 x 75 cm kit includes black mesh with excellent light transmission and a rigid powder-coated frame that sits neatly on the glass—no extra clips needed. Cut it to your tank’s inner dimensions for a perfect custom finish.
Features
Low-sheen black frame profile with integrated glass lip
Black mesh maintains high PAR with minimal light loss
Corner design avoids silicone beads for a flush seal
Two brace bars included for added span rigidity
Includes reverse and T-corners to accommodate openings and layout
Measure inside-glass for correct sizing; max frame extends ~3.6 cm each direction
Specifications
Nominal kit size: 120 x 75 cm
Mesh sheet: 140 x 90 cm
Frame pieces: 3 x 75 cm and 2 x 120 cm
Included hardware: 6 standard corners, 2 reverse corners, 2 T-corners, 2 brace bars 75 cm with 6 clips, finger pulls, spline and tool
UPC/EAN: 5060444552171
What’s included with
Black mesh 140 x 90 cm
3 x 75 cm + 2 x 120 cm frame sections
6 x standard corners, 2 x reverse corners, 2 x T-corners
2 x brace bars 75 cm with 6 x brace clips
Black spline 4.4 m, 2 x finger pulls, red spline roller tool
D-D Jumpguard Tank Cover Kit (180cm x 90cm)
Overview
Cover larger displays with a rigid lightweight screen that keeps livestock in and light levels high. The 180 x 90 cm Jumpguard Pro kit ships with black mesh, multiple brace bars and T-corners to maintain rigidity across wide spans while sitting cleanly on the glass edge for a near-invisible look.
Features
Strong powder-coated extruded profile with integrated glass lip
Black mesh with minimal PAR reduction and no shadowing
Three brace bars included to prevent deflection on wide tanks
Reverse and T-corners support neat cable/pipe routing
Cut-to-fit build; measure inside-glass; max frame extends ~3.6 cm per side
Specifications
Nominal kit size: 180 x 90 cm
Mesh sheet: 200 x 110 cm
Frame pieces: 7 x 90 cm
Included hardware: 6 standard corners, 2 reverse corners, 2 T-corners, 3 x 90 cm brace bars with 8 clips, finger pulls, spline and tool
UPC/EAN: 5060444552188
What’s included with
Black mesh 200 x 110 cm
7 x 90 cm frame sections
6 x standard corners, 2 x reverse corners, 2 x T-corners
3 x brace bars 90 cm with 8 x brace clips
Black spline 5.9 m, 2 x finger pulls, red spline roller tool
D-D Jumpguard Tank Cover Kit (75cm x 75cm)
Overview
Build a sleek low-profile mesh lid that stops jumpers while preserving light. The Jumpguard Pro frame uses a powder-coated extruded aluminium profile with a glass-sitting lip and black mesh tested at about 2.5% PAR loss so you keep coverage without compromising growth. Designed to cut to your tank’s exact inner dimensions for a clean custom fit.
Features
Extruded aluminium profile with integrated lip rests directly on the glass
Black mesh for minimal visual impact and excellent light transmission
Special corner geometry clears silicone beads for a tight gap-free fit
Cut-to-size DIY kit with included spline tool and finger pulls
Includes brace bar and reverse corners for rigidity and cable/pipe routing
Measure inside-glass to inside-glass for accuracy
Specifications
Nominal kit size: 75 x 75 cm; maximum buildable frame is ~3.6 cm longer each direction
PAR: about 2.5% reduction vs no cover with no shadowing reported by D-D
Fitment: designed to sit on the inner glass lip of most rimless/rimmed aquariums
UPC/EAN: 5060444552164
What’s included with
Black mesh 90 x 90 cm
5 x 75 cm frame sections (black)
6 x standard corners
2 x reverse corners
1 x brace bar 75 cm with 4 x brace clips
Black spline total 3.5 m
2 x finger pulls
Red spline roller tool
Daisy's Rice Fish Oryzias woworae Daisy's Rice Fish are very small, peaceful fish that are perfect additions to smaller sized aquariums. These fish because of their size, should be kept with other similarly sized fish in a peaceful environment that is well planted alongside pieces of driftwood and smooth rocks. They are a very outgoing fish and love to school with each other, so a recommended minimum grouping of 6 or more is recommended for the best coloration and activity to be seen. Male Rice Fish have a shimmery blue body with red highlights in their fins, while female Rice Fish with a slightly more yellow color body with orange highlighting. They are omnivores and will thrive with a varied diet of high quality flake food, pellets, and freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex. They will also appreciate being given vegetable matter. Daisy's Rice Fish grow to a max size of just over 1 inch, so a school of at least 6 fish is ideal in a 10g minimum tank. They prefer their water temperatures between 73-80oF and a pH between 6.0-7.5.
Dalmatian Molly Poecilia latipinna Molly fish are a hardy, easy fish that can be acclimated to either salt or freshwater. They are compatible with smaller community fish and larger fish. Mollies tend to have a bigger appetite than most fish, so it is recommended to have a good filtration system to make up for the extra feedings they will want. Mollys can grow to a length of 5 inches, and while they do not school they do swim in a shoaling pattern, so they prefer to be with their own kind. A group of 5 is recommended for them to feel safe in the aquarium. They are omnivores and prefer both meaty foods and algae. High quality flake food should be given alongside freeze-dried bloodworms and brine shrimp. Dalmatian Molly Specifics The Dalmatian Molly is a fun coloration of a classic freshwater fish, making them a sightly addition to a community tank. Dalmatian Molly's grow to a size of 4-1/2", so a tank of at least 30g for a group of at least 5 is optimum. They prefer their water to be between 68-82oF, their pH between 7.0-7.8.
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 3/4"Output: 3/4"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 1200 GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 1100 GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 950 GPHFlowchart for the Danner Mag-Drive 1200 Supreme Water Pump
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 3/4"Output: 3/4"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 1800 GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 1390 GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 1125 GPHFlowchart for the Danner Mag-Drive 1800 Supreme Water Pump
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 1"Output: 1"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 2400 GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 1550 GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 1355 GPH
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 1/2"Output: 1/2"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 200GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 125GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 15GPHFlowchart for the Danner Mag-Drive 250 Supreme Water Pump
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 1/2"Output: 1/2"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 300 GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 250 GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 180 GPHFlowchart for the Danner Mag-Drive 350 Supreme Water Pump
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 1/2"Output: 1/2"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 500 GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 310 GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 190 GPHFlowchart for the Danner Mag-Drive 500 Supreme Water Pump
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 1/2"Output: 1/2"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 700 GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 475 GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 400 GPHFlowchart for the Danner Mag-Drive 700 Supreme Water Pump
With only one moving part, and constructed out of non-corrosive ABS plastic, Mag Pumps are ideal for salt, or freshwater use.Fully submersible, or inline operation.A non oil filled motor make these pumps completely invertebrate & fish safe.All Mag Pumps are CuL Approved, and come with a one year warranty.Specifications:Input: 3/4"Output: 3/4"Flow Rate at 0' Head: 950 GPHFlow Rate at 4' Head: 800 GPHFlow Rate at 6' Head: 760 GPHFlowchart for the Danner Mag-Drive 950 Supreme Water Pump
The Fairy dart goby is a rare and exquisite fish perfect for small aquaria. Its pale body may be shades of delicate lilac, olive, or as white as snow. The edges of its long fins shimmer like sapphires. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2 inches; we recommend an aquarium 5 gallons or larger.This glittering little fish spends most of its time hovering just above the sand and may form loose groups. In nature it is found in deep water making it difficult to collect. Because of its small size it may be pestered by larger fish, including firefish, especially in small tanks. Dart gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. When threatened many dart gobies, with the exception of firefish, may quickly dive under the sand for cover. The firefish prefers to hide within the rockwork. A fine sand bed of at least two inches, but preferably deeper, will offer a safe refuge. Flat rocks placed on the sand will further help in creating a natural environment. We recommend the tank be securely covered as gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It is normal for them to be quite shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. Gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the dart goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Goatfish are unique and active fish that are friendly with other similar sized fish. They will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, mollusks and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their whisker-like barbels. They may be kept in a group if all individuals are added at the same time.Goatfish are busy scavengers and predators which use their strong barbels to effectively sift sand and probe through rockwork to find any scrap of food . This makes them very useful in aquariums with messy tank-mates. They are carnivores and should be fed three times a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood.The Dash & Dot goatfish has distinctive markings on its body; a dark rusty red to black stripe runs from its nose to its rear body, and there is a large spot at the base of its tail. Its body may be cream colored with yellow highlights, to rose colored with red highlights. The Dash & Dot goatfish grows to 16 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.
As if touched by an artist's brush, the Da Vinci clownfish's stripes are extended in a beautiful way. Each fish is different, with elegant wavy lines gracing its orange body. All three stripes will be connected on at least one side of this Extreme grade fish. It is a mix between the Wyoming White and Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
As if touched by an artist's brush, the Da Vinci clownfish's stripes are extended in a beautiful way. Each fish is different, with elegant wavy lines gracing its orange body. It is a mix between the Wyoming White and Ocellaris. Two stripes will be connected on at least one side of this A grade fish. It is a mix between the Wyoming White and Ocellaris.False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
As if touched by an artist's brush, the Da Vinci clownfish's stripes are extended in a beautiful way. Each fish is different, with elegant wavy lines gracing its orange body. It is a mix between the Wyoming White and Ocellaris. False Percula, or Ocellaris clownfish, grows up to 4 Inches and needs an aquarium of at least 15 gallons for a single or pair. Groups may be kept in larger aquariums as long as the dominant female chooses to tolerate the small fish. It works best if all individuals are added at the same time.Ocellaris clownfish are also known as False Percula for their close resemblance to their close relative the True Percula. It pairs best with its own species, but may also chose a True Percula as a mate. It is very rare for another species to bond with it; more commonly fighting occurs. True Percula and False Percula clownfish are nearly identical; the main difference is True Percula typically has a more orange color around the pupil, whereas Ocellaris eyes show more black. Ocellaris clownfish have pencil thin black lines around their white stripes, as opposed to mature True Percula who have thick black outlines.They may host with nearly any anemone species, except Atlantic species. Best hosts are Magnifica/Ritteri (Heteractis magnifica) or Carpet (Stichodactyla sp.), however Bubble Tip (Entacmaea quadricolor) and Sebae (Heteractis crispa) are also popular choices.Clownfish are hardy, easy to keep and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may choose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted, it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The incredible Debelious fairy wrasse is distinctively colored a warm rosy shade with dark ruby saddles over its back and dorsal fin. Some fish even sport yellow to orange colors over their backs and faces. Females are an overall deep pink with a black eyespot at the base of their tails. It is usually aggressive towards other fairy wrasses. It grows up to 3 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
The Decorated goby is aptly named- it is covered in countless intricate spots, as if it were covered in confetti. Against its creamy colored body these spots, which may be deep rusty red to twinkling turquoise, create a fish which is definitely fun to look at. Along its flank are a few larger, bolder dark markings shaped like rectangles which distinguish it from other similar gobies. It is typically imported from the Indian Ocean. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium 30 gallons or larger.They are a part time sand sifting fish, helping to keep the sand looking clean and free of debris while also consuming small micro-fauna. They do not typically lift sand to cover rocks or corals.Sand gobies are small, peaceful fish which spend most of their day hopping around on the substrate in an entertaining manner. A fine sand bed of at least two inches will help them feel secure.We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. They may be territorial to others of the same or similar species, however if two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair. They are typically peaceful with all other types of fish.Sand gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they usually learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Spider Decorator crab looks like an underwater tarantula covered in bits of live coral, macroalgae, sponges, shells, and any other small objects from its environment providing excellent camouflage. It is an opportunistic feeder and small or weakened tank mates may become fair game. It grows up to 4 inches and is easy to feed on fish food.
Embodying the delightful allure of a sunflower, this coral opens up to reveal a beauty unlike any other. Its bright colors shine with an intensity few other corals can hope to match. The Dendro coral is completely non-photosynthetic and receives all of its energy by capturing zooplankton. It will accept items such as mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, oyster eggs, pellets, etc. Feedings should be as regular as possible, preferably every 24 hours. Unlike similar species such as Sun coral, Dendro’s polyps are usually open during the day time, making both feeding and enjoying this coral much easier. It does not require any light, and may be placed in a cave or under an overhang. It may also be placed near the surface (away from intense light) to make target feeding easier. Weak specimens may conserve energy by refusing to open; in this situation food may have to settle on the polyps for some time before it will eat. Unlike many other corals, each of Dendro coral’s polyps are separate and cannot share food with one another. Each polyp must be fed in order to thrive. Its polyps tend to be larger and more impressive than the more common Sun coral. Pests on Dendro coral are rare, but may include wentletrap snails or nudibranch. If regular feedings are provided it will reward the dedicated aquarist with the growth of new polyps. It is peaceful and should be protected from contacting other corals and their sweeper tentacles. Because of its requirement for frequent feeding it makes an excellent tank-mate with carnation, flowerpot, sun coral, filter-feeding gorgonians, chili sponge, as well as invertebrates such as sponges, tunicates, porcelain crabs, feather duster worms including those living within Porites coral, clams and oysters, cucumbers and sea apples, etc. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium Lighting: Low - Medium
Average Placement: Middle Water Flow: Medium Temperament: Peaceful
Dennerle Black Cones
Overview
With valuable humic and tannins that naturally care for and protect aquarium fish, promote well-being, vitality and readiness to spawn.Mildly prevent fungal diseases of fish and spawning fungal fungi from acidity and stabilize the pH value Particularly recommended for fish from blackwater areas, such as discus, neons, angelfish, dwarf cichlids, antenna catfish, etc.
Features
With valuable humic and tannins that naturally care for and protect aquarium fish
For near-natural, tropical-like aquarium water
Promote well-being, vitality and readiness to spawn
Prevent fungal diseases of fish and spawning fungus
Mildly acidify and stabilize the pH value
Particularly recommended for fish from blackwater areas, such as discus, neons, angelfish, dwarf cichlids, antenna catfish, etc.
Dennerle Catappa Leaves
Overview
The Dennerle Nano Catappa Leaves are made up of fully mature and dried leaves from the Terminalia Catappa tropical almond tree.
When added to aquarium water, they release natural substances that replicate the conditions of the fish and invertebrates native habitats. Additionally, they gently lower the pH levels and maintain stability.
As the leaves decompose slowly, they provide an excellent source of supplementary and vacation food for aquatic creatures such as shrimp, crayfish, crabs, snails, and catfish.
These leaves are of premium quality, hand-picked, and harvested directly from the tree before being cleaned and dried.
Features
Natural water conditioner and food supplement
Create natural, tropical-like aquarium water
Are a natural decoration and promote species-appropriate behavior
Are a valuable additional food for crayfish and shrimp and increase breeding success
Ideal for starting a new aquarium
Mildly acidify and stabilize the pH value
Premium quality; harvested directly from the tree, cleaned, dried, handpicked
10 pieces in the package
Dennerle CO2 Quick Test
Overview
The Dennerle CO2 Quick Test determines whether the aquarium contains enough CO2 (liquid carbon compounds are not measured).
Test Dissolved CO2 Content with CO2 Quick Test from Dennerle
Dennerle's CO2 QuickTest is a convenient and easy-to-use test kit for measuring aquariums' carbon dioxide (CO2) levels. This test kit provides accurate and reliable results within minutes, allowing aquarium hobbyists to monitor and optimize their CO2 dosing for optimal plant growth and aquarium health. With its user-friendly design and precise measurements, Dennerle's CO2 QuickTest is an essential tool for any aquarist striving to create a well-balanced and thriving underwater ecosystem.
Features
Simple to use Results within a few seconds
Contains two tests
Dennerle Corner Filter Baby Protect
Overview
This additional protection for baby shrimp can simply be clipped onto the corner filter. In this way, the offspring is protected from being sucked through the filter.
Features
Additional intake protection
Clip-on intake protection for Corner filter
With filter sponge, pore size approx. 0.5 mm
Protects newly hatched shrimp larvae
Wash out filter sponge regularly
Simple installation
Dennerle Corner Filter Modul
Overview
The Dennerle Corner FIlter Modul is a filter basket for the nano corner filter and nano corner filter XL. Can be used as a replacement for the filter element with 3-fold fleece for even higher filter performance.
Especially recommended for fish stocking. In the corner filter XL you get a multistage filtration by exchanging only one filter element.
Simply fill, rinse (due to possible transport-related abrasion) and use instead of the filter element. For filling with nano filter media (Bio-Filter Granulate / Algae Stop / Active Carbon).
Features
Basket for filter material
Replaces a Corner filter element in the Nano Corner Filters 40 and 60
Increases the filter performance
Can be individually equipped
Suitable for Dennerle filter material
It provides a multi-stage filtering in the Corner filter 60
Dennerle Nano Bio Filter Granules
OverviewPremium-sized biofilter granules engineered for nano aquariums; their high-porosity surface supports beneficial nitrifying bacteria for crystal-clear water and stable nitrogen cycling.Features
High-surface-area ceramic granules for efficient biological filtration
Uniform 2–3 mm granule size ideal for small filter systems
Neutral inert material prevents pH shifts
Long-lasting performance with minimal clogging
Enhances ammonia and nitrite removal
Specifications
Material: Ceramic porous granules
Granule size: 2–3 mm
Quantity: 200 g pack
Color: Light grey
UPC: 4001615058444
