Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.This beautiful species originates from the Great Barrier Reef of Australia and surrounding area. It is a warm caramel color with two stripes, one behind the eye and the other on the mid-body. Its tail may be edged in white as a juvenile and fully white in mature females.
Clownfish are hardy and easy to keep, and are a perfect first fish for a new aquarium. Most species are available tank bred. They are omnivorous and easy to feed on high quality food items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and dry foods, preferably more than once a day.Clownfish are well known for their charming wiggling way of swimming, which serves them well in their natural home, within the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The exact reason clownfish are not stung is not known, but it may have something to do with the fish's slime coat. In the ocean, without the protection of the anemone, clownfish would be easily picked off by predators. In an aquarium the anemone, which has much more demanding needs than the fish, is not necessary. The fish may instead host with a soft coral such as furry mushrooms, toadstool leather, colt coral, or even within macro algae. It may chose to host within large polyp stony corals such as Euphyllia sp. as well, however the coral does sting the fish. We don't recommend encouraging them to host with delicate corals such as bubble or brain type corals, which the fish may injure with its constant swimming. Even with an anemone in the aquarium the fish will chose to host with whichever home it likes best.Clownfish may be kept singly, or more commonly in pairs, in which case the smallest more submissive fish remains a male, and the largest most dominant fish changes sex to become a female. Clowns are related to damselfish, and pairs will not tolerate other species of clownfish within their territory (which may include 50 gallons of space or more) and may fight to the death. They are prone to parasitic infections such as Brooklynella and velvet.It is common for pairs of clownfish to spawn in the aquarium, and pairs in their prime may lay eggs near their nest site as often as every two weeks. It is not necessary to interfere with the parents, who may become more aggressive at this time, chasing away other fish and nipping at their owner's hands. It is possible, though laborious, to raise the young fish at home. If a breeding effort is to be attempted it is important to ensure the parent fish are of the same species in order to maintain genetic purity for future generations.This beautiful species originates from the Great Barrier Reef of Australia and surrounding area. It is a warm caramel color with two stripes, one behind the eye and the other on the mid-body. Its tail may be edged in white as a juvenile and fully white in mature females.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.This exquisite beauty comes from Hawaiian waters and boasts amazing colors. Bright pink covers most of their body, except their back and tail which are intense yellow. Their nose is upturned in an adorable fashion, and a lyre shaped tail. Males have a yellow bar running down their side and more saturated colors. Males may be especially aggressive, and should not be housed with any other male anthias. It grows up to 3.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single individual, larger for a group.
The Bella sleeper goby is a popular choice for aquarists who need a hard working fish to keep their sand clean and prefer a fish less prone to picking up sand and carrying it up into the water column. Its long body is comes in variations of maroon, red and orange. These fish can tend to jump out the aquarium so a lid is recommended. Bella Gobies grow up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
The Bellus swallowtail angel has a beautiful pearly white body with many blue, yellow and black markings. The female has a bright sapphire blue patch on her side, and several thick stripes along her body, tail and face. The dorsal, pectoral and anal fins have patches of yellow. The male in contrast has yellow stripes along his body which turn black at the tail. The face has stripes which shift from blue to black to fiery orange. The Bellus swallowtail angel can grow to be approximately 7 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Angelfish of the genus Genicanthus are collectively known as swallowtail angelfish. In the wild, they typically live in small groups or harems of one male and several females. In the aquarium they are usually kept singly or in pairs; two males may fight each other. They are typically peaceful with all other fish. As they can be collected from deep water, they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Swallowtail angelfish are planktivores, meaning their diet consists of small floating food items such as shrimp. Sessile invertebrates such as corals are not their natural food item, so they can safely be kept in any sort of reef aquarium. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as Mysis shrimp and chopped krill, and also marine algae and Spirulina. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The Bellus swallowtail angel has a beautiful pearly white body with many blue, yellow and black markings. The female has a bright sapphire blue patch on her side, and several thick stripes along her body, tail and face. The dorsal, pectoral and anal fins have patches of yellow. The male in contrast has yellow stripes along his body which turn black at the tail. The face has stripes which shift from blue to black to fiery orange. The Bellus swallowtail angel can grow to be approximately 7 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. Angelfish of the genus Genicanthus are collectively known as swallowtail angelfish. In the wild, they typically live in small groups or harems of one male and several females. In the aquarium they are usually kept singly or in pairs; two males may fight each other. They are typically peaceful with all other fish. As they can be collected from deep water, they may suffer from swim-bladder damage; dim lighting will help with initial acclimation. Swallowtail angelfish are planktivores, meaning their diet consists of small floating food items such as shrimp. Sessile invertebrates such as corals are not their natural food item, so they can safely be kept in any sort of reef aquarium. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as Mysis shrimp and chopped krill, and also marine algae and Spirulina. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Bennett's Toby puffer is a assorted colored polka dots coating its light colored body. The Bennett's Toby can grow up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
The Berghia nudibranch is a highly specialized predator which only consumes Aiptasia anemones. It is very small and may become sucked into powerheads so all pumps should be screened. It is nocturnal and may only emerge at night. Typically multiple specimens are employed to rid an aquarium of Aiptasia, and since they feed slowly it is the eventual Nudibranch offspring which will make a noticeable impact on anemone populations. It is extremely sensitive to changes in water quality and is only recommended for expert aquarists.
Betta - Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Betta - Fancy Assorted Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
Betta - Assorted Female Betta splendens Betta's originate from Thailand but can be found in various neighboring countries. Wild betta's typically live in shallow areas like rice paddies, stagnant ponds, marshes, and streams. So, while they can breathe through their set of gills, if they are put in an environment where oxygen is low, they may swim up to the surface and take a big gulp of air that they process through a lung-like organ called the Labyrinth organ. This doesn't mean that betta's prefer oxygen poor environments - the ideal set up for a Betta fish is a tank that is at least 5 gallons that is both filtered and heated. Filtration provides the tank with much needed oxygenation in the water as well as a quick way to clean out some waste that begins to build up. Because betta's have evolved and lived in warmer climates, their water temperature should rest between 75-86oF; if the water runs at room temperature, betta's will become sluggish and lethargic in their movements. Betta's do well in water that has a pH between 6.0-8.0. Glossary of Some Common Betta Terms Betta Fin/Caudal Fin Variations Crowntail (CT): Crowntail caudal fins have very little webbing between the rays, giving them a spiky appearance like a regal crown. Doubletail (DT): Doubletail betta's have two distinct equal caudal fins that separate at the base. Plakat is the most common type of doubletail seen, but doubletail halfmoons exist as well. Dumbo: Dumbo, or elephant ear betta's, haveen larged pectoral fins right behind each gill, giving them an even more dramatic and showy appearance. They can be found with plakat, halfmoon, doubeltail, and crowntail caudal fins. Halfmoon (HM): Halfmoon tails/caudal fins form a fan-like half circle that is at least 180 degrees apart or further. Plakat (PK): Plakat tails/caudal fins were bred to have shorter/less billowy fins so they could swim much faster in the water when fighting for sport. Rosetails (RT): The difference between rosetails and halfmoons is the excessive yet beautiful folding of the fins which give them a more ruffled look, like a rose flower. Veiltail (VT): Veiltail caudal fins are one of the most common and beloved tail types, known for being long and flowy like a veil. Betta Color Variations Avatar - Blue or green colored fins and scales over top a black body. Black Samurai - Deep black body with white dragon scales and white accents in fins. Blue Mustard - A blue body with yellow/orange fins that may have blue accents as well. Blue Rim - A white body with a deep, navy color rimming their fins. Candy - A vibrant, multicolored body that includes, pinks, reds, greens, blues, and more! Copper - This copper coloration metallic and iridescent, shimmering under many types of lighting. Nemo - Nemo's are primarily a mix between orange and red coloration on the body and fins of the fish.
The bi-color angel is a very brightly colored and commonly available fish. Its body is divided in half with the head and shoulder region being bright yellow, the rear half dark navy blue, and the entire tail yellow. Males and females are visually identical.The bi-color angel can grow to be up to 6 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A common import from the Philippines and Bali, this handsome fish is mostly black with its tail end appearing to have been dipped in white paint; in the light the eye may show blue. It is a fast swimmer that sometimes chases other fish and may nip their fins. Grows up to 3 Inches.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Cleaner wrasses are naturally bold and spend their days swimming in the open, often with a unique up and down dance used to attract the attention of client fish. Their natural foods are parasites such as amphipods as well as dead skin and scales from larger fish. Smaller parasites such as ICH may be ignored in favor of searching for a more substantial meal. They instinctively want to clean other fish from dawn until dusk, so they are only recommended for large aquariums with plenty of tank mates. Otherwise they may pester their tank mates so much the other fish may chase and bite them. They have no fear of huge fish, so caution should be used if adding them with fish such as groupers which may swallow them whole.It is difficult to meet their unique nutritional needs, and as such they often fair poorly in aquariums. If they will accept prepared items they should frequently be offered a wide variety of foods thorough the day. Cleaner wrasses are totally reef safe, except with Tridacnid clams. The spots on the clam's mantel may be mistaken for parasites and nipped on by the wrasse. Cleaner wrasses are friendly with every other type of fish, but are extremely territorial with each other and may fight violently. At night time or when frightened they will hide amongst the rocks.The Bicolor Cleaner wrasse has a striking combination of color and contrast. Its front half is a metallic blue and its rear half lemony yellow. A bold black stripe begins at its nose and extends all the way to the end of its flared tail fin. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.The Bicolor foxface is a lovely fish with a lemony yellow tail and a dark chocolate body. Its face is snowy white with a black mask like a raccoon, and black chest. It is commonly available from Fiji. The Bicolor Foxface grows to 10 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.
Goatfish are unique and active fish that are friendly with other similar sized fish. They will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp, crabs, mollusks and worms. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their whisker-like barbels. They may be kept in a group if all individuals are added at the same time.Goatfish are busy scavengers and predators which use their strong barbels to effectively sift sand and probe through rockwork to find any scrap of food . This makes them very useful in aquariums with messy tank-mates. They are carnivores and should be fed three times a day a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood.The Bicolor is one of the smallest and most colorful goatfish. The front of its body is bright ruby red, and the rear half is lemony yellow. Snow white stripes run through its face, and there is a small black dot at the base of its tail. The Bicolor goatfish grows to 10 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.Two dramatic colors coat the Bi-Color hogfish- deep rust color on its front half and bright lemon to peach on its rear. Juveniles are rosy pink to burgundy color with electric yellow spots. It sometimes has the beneficial habit of cleaning its fish tank mates. Males and females are identical. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
Friendly by nature, they are rarely aggressive except towards other parrotfish. They are very active and require plenty of open space for swimming. Their teeth are fused together and resemble the beak of a tropical bird; they are powerful animals and regularly take bites out of the reef, eating algae, rock and coral alike. Soft coral and motile invertebrates are typically safe from their ravenous appetites; however they should receive plenty of high quality food throughout the day. Marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, enriched brine shrimp, chopped krill and other high quality items should be offered at least three times a day. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary.The Bi-Color parrotfish is a striking fish most commonly available in its juvenile coloration. It has a snowy white body with jet black and bright orange markings. Most notably a wide orange band covers its face and eyes, which are also orange. This band is outlined in black giving it spectacular contrast. A black eyespot on the dorsal fin is highlighted with orange, and orange dusts the caudal fin as well. As an adult it is primarily super saturated robin's egg blue with its features and scales outlined with magenta. Males and females are identical. The Bi-Color parrotfish grows to 31.5 inches and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.
The Coral Beauty angel a very colorful and popular fish. Its midbody and belly is typically a saturated orange to red, while the face, back and tail are a dark purplish blue. Many vertical stripes run over the body, through the orange. Many variants exist, sometimes with more or less orange on the body. Males and females are visually identical. The Coral Beauty angel can grow to be up to 4 inches long and needs an aquarium of at least 70 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. If several dwarf angelfish are to be kept together the aquarium must be large enough and they must all be added at the same time.Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It is It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Foxface are also known as Rabbitfish because of their incredible appetites for greens. They will eat nearly any type of food offered, including dry foods, but it is important to ensure they receive enough algae otherwise they become tempted to nibble on coral. Some species are more prone to this behavior than others. In the wild many species live amongst Acropora sp. and nibble algae off of the coral. When they do eat coral it is typically soft or LPS types. They do not harm any other type of invertebrate and are generally friendly towards all fish. Many species are found as pairs in the wild, and it is possible to keep two specimens together in a sufficiently large aquarium if they are of different sizes. It is best to add the two fish together, or the smaller individual first. In all other instances foxface usually bicker with each other. Foxface are quite hardy and may be added to newly set up aquariums.As herbivores foxface prefer to hide when threatened, and may change their color to a brown blotchy pattern to camouflage. This coloration is also normal during rest periods and may be visible in the morning. Foxface have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. They also have a toxin in their dorsal fin rays which may cause a welt like a wasp sting. It is important to be cautious of these spines when handling the fish in a net. This defense means most aggressive fish will not bother them. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Foxface are often employed to rid aquariums of nuisance algae, and they often consume algaes that other herbivores won't touch. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen Mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered at least once every two days.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
Dragonets are enchanting fish; however they are dependent upon live food and are best reserved for experienced aquarists. Their close relatives the scooters are much easier to keep and typically learn to eat frozen food on the substrate. Aggressive tank mates should be avoided. Care should be exercised when transferring this fish in a net as its large cheek spines may become tangled. They spend their days sneaking through the rockwork and over the substrate, and may bury in the sand at night or when frightened. They are prone to accidentally swimming into anemones and being eaten. Males have larger first dorsal fins than females. Dragonets are hunters of tiny shrimp-like copepods, and they must eat huge numbers of them in order to retain their healthy rotund appearance. Although dragonets are small fish we recommend a well established aquarium of no less than 50 gallons, and preferably larger. Scooters may be kept in as small as 20 gallons if they are feeding well on prepared foods. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Macroalgae may also be kept directly in the aquarium, and feeding of Phytoplankton may encourage copepods to reproduce faster. Tigger pods are a popular first food which this fish finds irresistible.Fish who directly compete with the dragonet for food should be avoided, primarily sleeper gobies. It should be offered frozen food items such as Calanus, Mysis and enriched brine shrimp on the sand several times a day.One of the ocean's most charming fish, the Mandarin Dragonet may also be one of the most beautiful. Its deep orange body is decorated with swirling patterns of emerald green. Its cheeks are pale cream which dissipates into tiny freckles on its throat. Its large pectoral fins may be green to blue and are in a constant undulating motion; it uses its pelvic fins to rest on the substrate. It may be kept alone or in pairs if the fish are added together or female first. Two males should never be kept together. The Mandarin Dragonet grows to 3 inches.
The Rainford's goby is a well-loved fish that has been given many names including the Court Jester goby and Old Glory. Its yellow face fades into a steel-grey body, and bright orangey-red stripes run from its nose to its tail. Several attractive eyespots are located along its dorsal and caudal fins, and white blotches are sprinkled along its back. Under the right light the edges of its fins may shimmer blue. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 2.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium at least 20 gallons.Hover gobies are extremely peaceful and do best with other mild-mannered fish. They spend most of their day floating about an inch above the aquarium's substrate, which should be a fine grain sand. They occasionally pick up the sand in their mouth and sift it, helping to keep it clean and eating tiny organisms found within.They are not as prone to jumping as most other gobies; however we still recommend the tank be securely covered. It is normal for them to be shy when initially introduced, however once settled in they prefer to spend time in the open. They often fight with other hover gobies, however are typically peaceful with all other fish.Hover gobies are omnivorous and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least twice a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium if the goby has not yet earned to eat from the water column. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods. Some live algae should be growing in the aquarium to allow the goby to graze naturally throughout the day. As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines.Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
An eye catching and popular fish, the Yellow tang is a real favorite out of Hawaii. Its entire body is a bright lemon color, and only its dark pupil and white scalpel are different shades. Its appealing round shape with its fan shaped tail and long snout give it an appealing silhouette. Males and females are visually identical.The Yellow tang can grow to be approximately 8 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 100 gallons or larger. It may be aggressive to other fish with similar features, such as shape or color, and to fish added after it is established. Tangs in the genus Zebrasoma can be quite feisty, often chasing other fish in the aquarium. They don't appreciate living with other tangs, especially others with the same shape. If they are to be kept with other tangs they should be added last, and the aquarium of sufficient size.Tangs are also called surgeonfish or doctor fish because they have at least one spine just in front of the tail which, when the tail is bent, can be stuck out and used as a threat display or weapon against competitive fish or predators. It is important to be cautious of this spine when handling the fish in a net. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. In the wild some tangs live in schools, however in the confines of an aquarium it is usually best to have only one of each genus, or they may be extremely aggressive to each other. They are typically very peaceful with other types of fish.Care should be taken with tangs to ensure they do not catch external parasites, such as Marine ICH and velvet, to which they are very prone.Tangs do not eat coral or invertebrates and are considered reef safe. They are primarily herbivorous, and although they love to eat meaty foods, they must be fed plenty of marine algae in order to remain healthy and vigorous. Having a proper diet may also reduce aggressive behaviors; tangs naturally graze on algae throughout the day. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, frozen mysis shrimp, and other high quality items. They typically learn to eat dry foods easily. It is preferable to feed more than once a day, with an algae clip offered approximately every other day.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The unique Bird wrasse makes an incredible display in a large aquarium. Its distinctive feature is its elongated snout. Males are an intense green ranging from jade to emerald with brighter fins, while females are warm earthy shades with white bellies and a dark spot on each scale, and a bright caramel stripe on their snouts. Mature dominant males may develop a bulge on their snouts. It grows up to 11 inche and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses have active personalities and appreciate plenty of rockwork as well as open space to swim. They may eat small invertebrates, especially shrimp, but do not bother corals or anemones. Due to their relatively shy demeanor they should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. They have very small mouths and may be difficult to feed, so frequent feedings of a wide variety of foods should be offered thorough the day. We only recommend this species for experienced aquarists. They are coral safe, but larger individuals may attack small invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, urchins, worms, bivalves and serpent stars.br />At night time or when threatened these wrasses will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. It is not uncommon to find the wrasse laying on top of the sand to rest during the day. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The unique Bird wrasse makes an incredible display in a large aquarium. Its distinctive feature is its elongated snout. Males are an intense green ranging from jade to emerald with brighter fins, while females are warm earthy shades with white bellies and a dark spot on each scale, and a bright caramel stripe on their snouts. Mature dominant males may develop a bulge on their snouts. It grows up to 11 inche and needs an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
Birdsnest coral is a type of pocilloporid, related to Stylophora and Pocillopora. They are some of the easiest small polyped stony corals to keep. Although they can be highly adaptable, they should still be provided with bright lighting and strong turbulent water flow best provided with a wave maker or surge action. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Trapezia sp. crabs. In nature their polyps are open mainly at night, although in the aquarium they typically also open in the daytime. This coral may grow short sweeper tentacles less than 1”.This distinctive coral has extremely thin branches with tapered tips which may be quite sharp. As the colony grows they may become intertwined into a tangled bush. Color is usually bright mint green or hot pink. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Birdsnest coral is a type of pocilloporid, related to Stylophora and Pocillopora. They are some of the easiest small polyped stony corals to keep. Although they can be highly adaptable, they should still be provided with bright lighting and strong turbulent water flow best provided with a wave maker or surge action. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Trapezia sp. crabs. In nature their polyps are open mainly at night, although in the aquarium they typically also open in the daytime. This coral may grow short sweeper tentacles less than 1”.This distinctive coral has extremely thin branches with tapered tips which may be quite sharp. As the colony grows they may become intertwined into a tangled bush. Color is usually bright mint green or hot pink. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Birdsnest coral is a type of pocilloporid, related to Stylophora and Pocillopora. They are some of the easiest small polyped stony corals to keep. Although they can be highly adaptable, they should still be provided with bright lighting and strong turbulent water flow best provided with a wave maker or surge action. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Trapezia sp. crabs. In nature their polyps are open mainly at night, although in the aquarium they typically also open in the daytime. This coral may grow short sweeper tentacles less than 1”.This distinctive coral has extremely thin branches with tapered tips which may be quite sharp. As the colony grows they may become intertwined into a tangled bush. Color is usually bright mint green or hot pink. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Birdsnest coral is a type of pocilloporid, related to Stylophora and Pocillopora. They are some of the easiest small polyped stony corals to keep. Although they can be highly adaptable, they should still be provided with bright lighting and strong turbulent water flow best provided with a wave maker or surge action. It may be host to several species of beneficial crustaceans including Trapezia sp. crabs. In nature their polyps are open mainly at night, although in the aquarium they typically also open in the daytime. This coral may grow short sweeper tentacles less than 1”.This distinctive coral has extremely thin branches with tapered tips which may be quite sharp. As the colony grows they may become intertwined into a tangled bush. Color is usually bright mint green or hot pink. This coral receives most of its energy by utilizing the photosynthetic algae contained within its tissues. It will also benefit from occasional feedings of fine zooplankton and coral snow.Temperature swings are not tolerated and may lead to bleaching. Temperatures should never be allowed to reach 82F, which will surely damage the colony. For this reason many aquarists keep their temperature lower as a precaution, as low as 76F.Intermixing with soft corals (especially leathers, mushrooms and Lemnalia) is best avoided, as many soft corals release potent chemicals into the water which can be detrimental to the health of small polyp stony corals.Water flow should be strong and is best provided as turbulent flow with the use of a wave maker or surge action. Alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and strontium are required for growth and should be checked regularly. Difficulty: Intermediate Growth Speed: Medium - Fast Lighting: Medium - High Average Placement: Middle - High Water Flow: Medium - High
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Chromis are active, coral -safe fish with bright colors. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, some large species may attack small shrimp. Most species can be kept in schools together with their own kind, and we find a minimum of 6 to be the ideal number. They are known to be normally non-aggressive, although they may chase smaller fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for chromis which grow to 3 Inches, and at least 50 for larger species and schools of multiple individuals.Chromis are typically easy to feed on a variety of frozen or dried meaty and vegetable foods. Chromis are hardy and able to survive a wide array of aquarium conditions. They are related to damselfish and clownfish.A common import from Bali, this diminutive species has a lovely yellow body with a black stripe just before the tail, which is stark white. It also has some shading around the eye area; in the light the eye may show blue. Grows up to 2 Inches.
Black Bristlenose Pleco (L183) Ancistrus dolichopterus The Bristlenose Pleco, also known as the Bushy Nose or brushmouth pleco, are peaceful fish that are a popular choice for many aquariums. They spend their time primarily near the bottom of the tank, using the many whiskers around their mouths to detect food. Most, if not all of this fishes nutrition comes from leftover food and algae, so if your tank is lacking algae it is recommended to add some algae wafers for them to graze on. They prefer well planted tanks with plenty or rock and driftwood to imitate their natural habitat. Bristlenose Black Pleco (L183) Specifics The Bristlemouth Pleco grows to a size of 6 inches and should be placed in a tank of at least 30 gallons. They prefer their water temperatures between 72-82oF, pH between 6.5-7.4.
Jawfish are some of the most personable fish available. Their huge eyes miss nothing in the aquarium, and peer through the glass at their keeper. They may then cock their head to the side like a puppy as they interact with their owner. Aggressive tank mates and fish with large mouths should be strictly avoided, as should any animal that may disturb the tranquility of the sand bed: sleeper gobies, pistol shrimp, burrowing wrasses, goatfish, etc may stress the timid jawfish out of its burrow. Unless the aquarium is large jawfish may also stress each other. They use open mouth threats, and when that does not work they grab mouthfuls of sand and dump it in the other fish's burrow. Suitable tank mates include non sand-dwelling gobies, peaceful blennies, cardinal fish, clownfish, flasher wrasses, chromis, dragonets, assessors, etc. They may consume tiny fish such as Trimma or Evotia gobies, and shrimp such as sexy shrimp. Because of its extremely shy demeanor, we recommend the jawfish be the first fish added to the aquarium.Jawfish are sand dwelling animals and use their large mouths to scoop out a burrow to live in. At nighttime or when a tunnel is not being used the fish may block it off with shells and small rocks. It is important to provide deep sand of at least four inches, preferably deeper, with plenty of shells and crushed coral of various sizes so the fish has enough building material to create a stable dwelling. The shed leaves of Halimeda algae are also utilized as building material. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the fish excavates. Plenty of open swimming space may encourage the jawfish to hover higher above its burrow. We recommend the tank be securely covered as jawfish are prone to jumping from open top aquaria.Jawfish are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed two to three times a day and to let some food land on the bottom of the aquarium. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.The Black Cap jawfish has bold colorful markings and an inquisitive nature. It wears a black mask over its face, and its creamy colored body is marked by rusty orange stripes. Its rear fins are a bright lemon yellow, and a small black spot is present at the front of its dorsal fin. Males and females are identical. It grows to 4 inches and should be kept in an established aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
The Black Cardinal fish creates a bold contrast against a colorful background. Its mature color ranges from deep mocha to pitch black depending on their mood. Its tail is rounded in the shape of a heart, and it always swims with its fins extended giving it a beautiful silhouette. Males and females are visually identical. It grows up to 4.5 inches.The Black Cardinal is a peaceful, reef safe fish. It schools eagerly with its own species and often with other species as well. They are typically safe with invertebrates; however, it has a large mouth and may attack small shrimp or tiny fish. They are easy to feed on a variety of frozen foods, but may need time to adapt to dry food. It prefers an aquarium with some overhangs and caves which it may spend time in during the day. Cardinals are hardy and do not require much swimming space compared to other fish. We recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons for a single fish and 50 gallons or larger for a school.
Black Crystal Shrimp Caridina sp Crystal Shrimp are another strikingly beautiful choice of shrimp for the freshwater aquarium. They were selectively bred by Bee Shrimp to have such a radiant colour alongside the patterning of white across their bodies. Crystal Shrimp differ slightly in care requirements from that of Amano Shrimp and Cherry Shrimp and are regarded as being a little more finicky. They like their water to be more on the acidic side (pH of 5.8-7.4), so having a well-established tank with Indian Almond leaves and driftwood will benefit them. gH is of importance to shrimp, as these Crystal Shrimp like theirs slightly hard between (4-6 gH). The gH (general hardness) is the measure of concentration of calcium carbonate and magnesium ions. For Shrimp to molt correctly they will need these elements to make their new exoskeleton. A TDS reading between 100-200 is best for these shrimps, and because they don't like TDS to be too high, they may not mix well with Neocaridina's who like a higher reading. Their water temperature should remain on the cooler side, ranging between 62-76oF.
The stunning Black Heniochus develops an extremely high, trailing dorsal fin spike. Against its shimmery white body are bold black stripes, and its rear fins are painted lemon yellow. It looks somewhat like a Moorish Idol but is much easier to keep. It is very similar in appearance to the Schooling Heniochus but is much more common. It can be distinguished by its longer snout, less rounded breast, and anal fin which extends nearly to the tip of its caudal fin and is colored more white than black. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons. It is regularly imported from Bali and the Philippines.This species is very hardy and normally quite peaceful, and should not be kept with aggressive tank mates. It can be kept singly or in pairs or groups as long as all individuals are added at the same time to a large aquarium. Heniochus do not show differences between males and females. Heniochus are also known as bannerfish and are related to butterflyfish and angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines.Butterflyfish and bannerfish may eat anemones, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The fish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Many species also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species may nip on many types of corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is lots of live rock to hide in, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed on a variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Freshwater
