Want to split your return line? This is the answer!One incoming Loc-Line length, and two outgoing are great for return applications to spread out your water flow.
Tunicates, or Sea Squirts, resemble sponges but are actually very complicated animals related to fish. Their adult form lives attached to hard substrate and filters the water for food, mainly bacterioplankton. A well established aquarium with a sand substrate will help to generate appropriate food. Additions of phytoplankton and occasional stirring of the sand, as well as minimal or no protein skimming, may help. We recommend Tunicates only be attempted by expert aquarists who can meet their demanding needs.This unique tunicate is typically robin's egg blue. It has a stem with many polyp-like zooids at the end. It may occasionally cover itself with a clear film in order to clean itself; this may take up to a few weeks to be shed.
The Long-Finned Sleeper Goby is a good choice for more peaceful saltwater aquariums as it can tend to be shy. Its long body is has green stripes and dots down it's length.. These fish can tend to jump out the aquarium so a lid is recommended. Long FInned Sleeper Gobies grow up to 6 inches; we recommend an aquarium 50 gallons or larger.Sand sifting, or sleeper gobies, are famous for their busy work of keeping the sand looking clean and free of debris. They require a fine sand bed of at least two inches in order to feel secure and also to exhibit normal behavior, which includes near constant sifting of the sand through their gills. They do this to extract any edible particles, such as small shrimp and copepods, worms, algae and more. They are so efficient at eating micro-fauna from the sand that unless the aquarium is large we do not recommend keeping them with live-food dependent species such as dragonets or signal gobies.Sand sifting gobies have large mouths and may eat very small fish or shrimp, but are peaceful with all other types of fish. They may fight with other sifter gobies unless each fish is given at least 50 gallons worth of space. We recommend the tank be securely covered as sand dwelling gobies may be prone to jumping from open top aquaria. Their bottom sifting activities also leave them vulnerable to intestinal parasites and we recommend de-worming them before adding to a display aquaria.Sleeper gobies are commonly mistaken as watchman gobies; however sifter gobies are lone fish that do not pair with a pistol shrimp. If two fish are added to a sufficiently large aquarium at the same time it may be possible to keep a pair of sleeper gobies.Sleeper gobies are primarily carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day. Frozen food is best, however in time they may learn to eat dry foods.As one of the largest families of fish there are near countless varieties of gobies which inhabit every different niche on the reef. They are coral safe and typically quite active and friendly with other fish. They have the ability to change sex to form pairs, although they don't always do so. Most gobies are imported from the Philippines. Gobies are diminutive fish typically with elongated bodies, and as such we do not recommend any aggressive or large-mouthed fish to be kept with them; this includes all groupers, snappers, sweetlips, soapfish, lionfish, eels, goatfish, anglers/frogfish, leaf fish, etc.
Boxfish are typically available in a very small size, however their growth potential is spectacular. They require suitably large aquariums to give them enough room to swim comfortably. We recommend boxfish only be kept by very experienced aquarists. Because of the boxfish's lack of mobility they are prone to being nipped on by other fish, which could prove disastrous. Boxfish contain a toxin, pahutoxin, which may be released into the water when the fish is stressed. When concentrated, pahutoxin may cause a frothing effect in the water. Within the confines of the aquarium this toxin, which is invisible, may become concentrated enough to damage the gills of every other fish in the aquarium, potentially causing death. If not corrected in time it may also cause the death of every other animal in the aquarium. For this reason boxfish should never be kept with any fish who may bother them, including groupers, angelfish, damsels, and any fish who may chase or bite them.If it is suspected the water is poisoned a large water change should be conducted immediately and fresh carbon added. Other fish should be removed to a separate aquarium with new water. Boxfish have some resistance to their own toxin, however it can still injure them and it is possible for microfauna in the aquarium to die, creating an ammonia spike. Sudden lighting changes or other surprises may also stress the fish enough to cause toxin release.Boxfish are typically peaceful towards all other fish. They are very personable and can learn to feed from their owner’s fingers. They are omnivores which may feed on many types of sponges, tunicates, worms, bivalves, and corals. They feel most secure when they have a cave or two to hide in, as well as plenty of open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that so the boxfish can swim in and out comfortably. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. Boxfish should be fed at least 3 times a day. Never feed floating food or the boxfish may ingest air and develop buoyancy issues.The Long Horned Cow is a unique boxfish that grows a distinctive long thin horn over each eye. Its lemony yellow body is decorated with baby blue polka dots, and may show darker tracings of hexagons like a honeycomb. Two more spines are present below its tail giving it a thorny appearance. Males and females are identical. Its tiny mouth is puckered as though it is permanently making a kissy face. It is commonly available from Bali. The Long Horned Cow grows to 18 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 180 gallons.
Pufferfish are some of the most interesting fish available. Their rounded bodies and cute faces are almost irresistible. Tank mates should be selected carefully, however, as pufferfish will use their strong beaks to investigate everything in the aquarium for edibility. They like to eat snails, crabs, bivalves and shrimp, and in fact these crunchy items are important for trimming their ever-growing beaks. They may also sample corals, feather dusters, and any other invertebrate available. They may chase and bully other fish, especially those smaller than themselves. They are typically aggressive with other pufferfish and two should only be kept together in the very largest of aquariums, and added at the same time. There are two main types of pufferfish- the Tobies, or sharp-nosed puffers, which are small sized fish typically 4-5 inches, and normal pufferfish which typically grow at least 12 inches. All pufferfish have the ability when frightened to inflate their bodies to a huge size. This is an extreme threat response and should never be encouraged. We recommend pufferfish be transported in a container rather than a net, because should it inflate with air rather than water it could experience massive problems expelling the air.Pufferfish have shiny eyes that often appear to shimmer a turquoise color but may also at times appear glossed over. Males and females are identical, however males may grow larger.Puffers are carnivores and should be fed two to three times a day a high quality diet of meaty items such as Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, and chopped seafood. Algae clips with nori are a favorite treat and may be quickly devoured. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Pearl Toby puffer is a commonly available fish with delightful baby blue polka dots coating its dark caramel colored body.A dark eyespot at the base of its dorsal fin is also ringed in blue. Its fins are transparent, except for its caudal fin which may be the same color as its body to fiery orange.It grows up to 5 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 50 gallons.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.This incredible animal has slender tentacles and may grow up to 19 inches. It prefers to bury its foot in the sand. Most common specimens are cream colored. It can be identified by stripes radiating out from the mouth, and small bumps along its column. It may host any clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Skunk, Saddleback and Maroon complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.This incredible animal has slender tentacles and may grow up to 19 inches. It prefers to bury its foot in the sand. Most colored specimens are shades of green. It can be identified by stripes radiating out from the mouth, and small bumps along its column. It may host any clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Skunk, Saddleback and Maroon complexes.
Anemones have a central mouth surrounded by stinging tentacles which can capture small creatures and deliver them to the mouth. The sting is often quite strong and capable of damaging corals and injuring fish. Small fish such as firefish and dragonets may accidently swim directly into the anemone and be killed. Large anemones such as carpets may even kill larger fish. The addition of a night light greatly aids fish in avoiding the anemones. The tentacles are often very sticky and can cause painful sores. Some animals are specially adapted to live within anemones, such as Periclimenes shrimp and Porcelain crabs.Anemones receive most of their energy from the light, which should be very bright. Metal halide is the preferred lighting for most anemones. Feeding should be at least twice weekly and consist of small meaty items such as Mysis or chopped krill. Large specimens may take diced fish.The foot of the anemone enables them to adhere to glass and also to crawl around the aquarium. They can also float in the water to move quickly. Newly introduced specimens often wander for some time before settling down. At any time it may relocate, and is prone to being sucked into powerheads; all pumps should be screened for safety. Its foot is delicate and should never be damaged. Protein skimming is recommended to oxygenate the water sufficiently. Stable water conditions are important, and anemones are only recommended for mature aquariums.This incredible animal has slender tentacles and may grow up to 19 inches. It prefers to bury its foot in the sand. Most ultra colored specimens are bright purple. It can be identified by stripes radiating out from the mouth, and small bumps along its column. It may host any clownfish species, hosting easiest with Clarkii, Skunk, Saddleback and Maroon complexes.
The Longfin batfish is a large and impressive fish with huge fins. As a juvenile the fins are much larger than its body and it is taller than it is long. It has a light cream colored body with dark vertical bands in a deep chocolate. These bands extend through the eye, shoulder and rear body. As it matures it gradually grows into its fins and as an adult the fins are approximately the same size as its body. Its body changes from cream to silver and the band through its rear body disappears, but the eye and shoulder bands remain. The pelvic fins become yellow and its face becomes large and round. It can be differentiated from the similar Orbiculate batfish by having a dark blotch under its pectoral fins. Males and females are visually identical.Batfish are large and elegant fish with very high fins, therefore they should only be housed in large, deep aquaria to give them enough room to swim comfortably. The Longfin batfish can grow to be up to 22 inches long and we recommend an aquarium of at least 220 gallons and 30 inches deep. As a small young fish it is prone to being nipped on by other fish, however as an adult it may chase and nip at other fish, especially those with a similar shape. This behaviour does not typically lead to violence and overall it is considered fairly peaceful. They are very personable and can learn to feed from their owner’s fingers.Batfish are omnivores which may nip on many types of corals, anemones, feather dusters and sponges. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Caves should be large enough that the batfish's fins don't touch the rocks or bottom of the aquarium. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, half shell clams, krill and Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed more than once a day.
Longfin Rosy Barb Barbodes semifasciolatus Barbs are a fun, loud personality to add to your peaceful home aquarium. They are quite active in the aquarium, and because they tend to want to school in groups of at least 5, more timid fish or long finned fish should be avoided as tank mates. Barbs are omnivores, meaning they should be supplied with a varied diet of high- quality flake food and meaty frozen shrimp. Rosy Barb Specifics Rosy Barbs grow slightly larger than most other barbs in the family, maxing out at a size of 6 inches. They like to school together so a tank of at least 30g is recommended for a group of younger smaller ones. They like their temperature between 74-79oF, a pH between 6.0-7.0.
An unmistakably elongated snout gives the Longnose butterfly instant appeal. Its face is dark on top and white on its chin, and its entire body is solid lemon yellow. A single black spot is on its anal fin, just under the base of its tail. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.The Longnose butterfly is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is aggressive towards its own kind but usually gets along well with other butterflyfish as long as they are all added at the same time. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. This species has the amusing habit of occasionally swimming upside down. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is usually coral safe; however caution should be exercised if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may nip on corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed, but has a very small mouth. It should be offered a wide variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
An unmistakably elongated snout gives the Longnose butterfly instant appeal. Its face is dark on top and white on its chin, and its entire body is solid lemon yellow. A single black spot is on its anal fin, just under the base of its tail. It grows up to 9 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 125 gallons.The Longnose butterfly is normally quite peaceful, and if added first it may be kept with aggressive tank mates. It is aggressive towards its own kind but usually gets along well with other butterflyfish as long as they are all added at the same time. Butterflyfish do not show differences between males and females. They are related to angelfish, but lack the angel's distinctive cheek spines. This species has the amusing habit of occasionally swimming upside down. A butterflyfish's favorite food is an anemone, so they should not be kept in the same aquarium with one unless it is guarded by aggressive clownfish. The butterflyfish knows to attack the anemone on its mouth, which does not sting, and will make a quick meal of it. Because of this behavior this species is often employed to rid an aquarium of pest anemones such as Aiptasia. Many species of butterfly also benefit from filamentous algae in the aquarium to graze on.This species is usually coral safe; however caution should be exercised if attempting to keep it in a reef. It may nip on corals, clam mantles, sponges, and feather dusters. They do not typically bother other types of invertebrates such as crustaceans. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. This species is easy to feed, but has a very small mouth. It should be offered a wide variety of meaty and herbivore preparations such as frozen Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, half shell clams, marine algae and Spirulina; it should be fed 2-3 times a day.
Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.A comically long snout sets the Longnose hawkfish apart from all the rest. Its snout is about a third the length of its entire body. Against its ruby red body are many delicate rose colored squares. The Longnose hawkfish is best not mixed with other hawkfish which may bully it; pairs may be kept together. We typically import this fish from the Indian Ocean. We recommend the tank be securely covered the Longnose hawkfish is prone to jumping from open top aquaria. It grows to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Shrimp are active, entertaining and easy to keep. They shed their shells as they grow, and afterwards need to hide in the rock until their new shell hardens. Shrimp are highly excitable when food is present, and will do anything to get it. Some species may pester corals by attempting to reach food the coral has eaten. In this situation the shrimp should be provided food first. Large individuals may catch and consume smaller species.An amusing animal also known as the Pinocchio shrimp after its long red nose; the rest of its body is bright yellow with dark spots. It is very social with its own kind and is peaceful with all other aquarium inhabitants. It may clean fish, and is easy to feed on fish food. It grows to only 1.5 inches.
This dazzling urchin has lengthy spines with alternating black and white stripes. It also has some shorter spines in an earthy tone.Other common names include Banded or Double Spined urchin.It is most active at night, and has a voracious appetite for algae, including hair algae - if there is not enough natural food available it may be fed dried algae sheets. It is very reef safe, and only bothers corals if it is starving.Its spines are easily broken and may easily puncture skin causing painful wounds. Broken spines will grow back quickly.This urchin can grow to 12 inches.
This amazing creature grows exceptionally long spines for protection. It is typically black, although sometimes the spines are striped with white.It is most active at night, and has a voracious appetite for algae, including hair algae - if there is not enough natural food available it may be fed dried algae sheets. It is very reef safe, and only bothers corals if it is starving.Its spines are easily broken and may easily puncture skin causing painful wounds. Broken spines will grow back quickly.This urchin can grow to 12 inches.
A bizarre and beautiful addition for a larger aquarium, the Lookdown certainly is unique. Its flattened body is so thin it is nearly impossible to believe. Its scales shine silver so brightly they are mirror-like. Its mouth is set low on its flat face, giving it a permanent grimace. Its dorsal, pectoral and anal fins are elongated and scythe shaped. Young fish have a few stripes along their back. The Lookdown may grow up to 18 inches, and should be kept in an aquarium of at least 180 gallons for a single individual, larger for a school.The Lookdown is a peaceful fish which eagerly schools with its own kind. It prefers an aquarium with plenty of free swimming space and open sandy bottom. Good tank mates include batfish, rays, gurnards, scorpion fish, leaf fish, jawfish, sleeper gobies and tilefish. They do not commonly eat other fish, however very small tank mates are best avoided. Decor such as mangroves, gorgonians and sea grasses are best used at the aquariums ends, and rockwork kept to a minimum or not used at all. Lookdown are carnivores and should be fed a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood enriched with vitamins and Spirulina. Juveniles should be fed at least three times a day, and adults at least once a day.They may be prone to parasites such as ich, but are otherwise hardy and easy to keep.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.Fairy wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They are safe with most invertebrates except small shrimp and crabs. They do not bother corals or anemones. They may bully smaller fish such as flasher wrasses, however most are not big enough to live with large or very aggressive fish, either. Most species can be kept together in systems at least 100 gallons, with the most peaceful species added first.At night time fairy wrasses hide in the rockwork and wrap themselves in a mucus cocoon to hide their scent from predators. This cocoon may be visible in the morning, and will soon dissipate into the water, and a new cocoon created each night.The dazzling Lubbock's fairy is awash in a rainbow of colors; each fish is unique, however there are two main varieties. It may have a randomized koi-type pattern of magenta and sapphire, or deep fuchsia across its back and a glittering blue flank with two dark navy stripes along its side. Both varieties, and sometimes females as well, have a bright lemon yellow dorsal fin. Females are mainly bright pink with a black spot at the base of the tail. It is normally peaceful, but can hold its own quite well. It grows up to 3.5 inches and needs an aquarium at least 50 gallons.
Wrasses are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Most species may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added together or females first. They do not appreciate living with other species of wrasse, so any aquarium with several species must be large enough and the most peaceful species added first.They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina.These wrasses are easy to keep and have active personalities. They have big appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack other crustaceans, snails, worms including bristleworms, mantis shrimp and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted; we do not recommend keeping them with small species such as flasher wrasses. They may be kept in pairs or harems as long as they are added at the same time or females first.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened will dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the wrasse dives in.The Lunare wrasse is known by many names including Moon and Lyretail wrasse. Juveniles and females are a lovely emerald green with a cyan belly and blue tail, with magenta squiggles on their face. Very young fish have dark eyespots on their dorsal fin and one at the base of the tail. Mature males lose the blue belly to be overall emerald green with brighter pink faces, pectoral fins and edges of their lyre shaped caudal fin, with a bright lemon spot in the middle of the tail. It grows up to 10 inches and needs an aquarium of at least 150 gallons.
Groupers are large fish that make incredible display animals in the right aquarium. They get along well with other large-bodied fishes as long as they don't enter its cave, but will greedily swallow whole any small or slender fish as well as shrimp and crabs. They do not harm corals, but may knock over small decor with their strong tails. They are best kept singly in all but the largest of aquaria, and then they should be of different species and added at the same time. Each grouper will require at least one large cave to call its own. It may spend most of its time there, especially when newly introduced. In time they may become real pets and recognize their owner.Groupers are slow moving ambush predators that feed by sucking in their food whole into their enormous mouths. They are carnivores and should be fed at least once every two or three days a high quality diet of krill, silversides and chopped seafood. They are heavy feeders and thus strong filtration is necessary. The Lyre Tail grouper is an awesome fish, and as its name suggests mature fish have a strongly pointed tail. All its fins have an attractive bright yellow edge. It is also called the Caramel cod after its warm, rusty colored body. Countless white polka-dots cover it from nose to tail, and a thick white stripe runs down its nose. Juveniles are creamy rose colored with a white belly and a dark stripe down their middle, ending in an eyespot at the tail. Its eyes are bright red, and its spots may shimmer lavender under the right light. It is one of the most outgoing of all the groupers, spending most of its time out in the open. It grows to 32 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 300 gallons.
Anthias are active, colorful, reef safe, and generally quite peaceful fish. They pose little to no danger to any other aquarium inhabitant, other than small competing zooplanktivores, such as dart fish and flasher wrasses, which they may chase into hiding.The key to success with anthias is frequent feeding. Because of their activity level they have a very high metabolic rate, and should be fed a minimum of three times daily. Diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items such as frozen Mysis shrimp, marine algae and Spirulina, enriched brine shrimp and Calanus. Anthias are such enthusiastic feeders they usually learn to eat dry foods quickly, but if they are fussy the dry food can be mixed in with the frozen to encourage consumption. A refugium is helpful in supplementing the main aquarium with live prey items. Additional supplements and vitamins may also aid in maintaining the fish's vivid colors.Anthias are prone to jumping from the aquarium when startled or excited so we recommend a secure lid. In the wild most anthias species are found in huge shoals consisting of mainly females and juveniles. In the aquarium they are perfectly happy alone, but if a shoal is desired the aquarium must be of sufficient size to ensure the smallest and weakest fish have space to escape the larger and more aggressive members. A group of at least six females added together can work, and in time the largest fish transforms into the dominant male. He is typically brighter and more colorful than his harem. If he will be added together along with his shoal then as many females and juveniles as possible should be added.The Lyretail anthias is an incredibly pigmented fish. We typically receive this fish from the Indian Ocean, where the males develop intense pink to red coloration, with darker blotches on their pectoral fins and a high spiked dorsal fin. Females are a bright tangerine orange all over with purple eyes. Both fish have a darker streak under their eye. May be mixed with other anthias species with caution in a large aquarium if it is added last. It grows up to 5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 75 gallons for a single individual, larger for a group.
Hawkfish are entertaining fish with outgoing personalities. They have do not have swim bladders so can only float in the water with effort. They prefer to spend their days perched atop rocks or coral surveying their surroundings. They are coral safe, but are predatory towards shrimp. It is possible for hawkfish to consume even a large shrimp by bashing it against a rock into bite sized pieces. They may also eat anything else that can fit in their mouths, including small or slender fish. They may bully other fish and we don't recommend keeping them with small wrasses, jawfish, dottybacks, gobies or blennies. They do well with angelfish, tangs, larger dottybacks, large wrasses, triggers and puffers.Hawkfish are carnivores and their diet should include plenty of high quality meaty items, marine algae, Spirulina, and frozen Mysis shrimp. It is preferable to feed at least once a day. They are hardy and usually learn to eat dry foods.With its long fins and bright color, the Lyretail hawkfish makes a great display animal. It is also known as the Swallowtail hawkfish after its long forked tail. It is colored shades of tangerine, ruby red and amber; the colors swirl together like molten rock. Each spiked ray of it dorsal fin is tuffed with furry cirri. Males and females are visually identical. It can be kept with its own kind in a suitably large aquarium if all fish are added together. It enjoys hovering in the water against high water flow. It is the safest hawkfish to attempt to keep with shrimp, as long a she shrimp is large and added to the aquarium first. It grows to 5.5 inches; we recommend an aquarium of at least 30 gallons.
Hogfish are related to and share many qualities with wrasses. They are easy to keep and have healthy appetites for invertebrates, especially shrimp, however larger species may attack crustaceans, snails, worms and starfish among others. They do not bother corals or anemones, but may flip over rocks in their search for food. Large species may also bully or eat small fish, but they are typically nonaggressive with other large fish as long as they have a different shape. Similarly shaped fish are seen as a threat and may be targeted.They will hide within the rockwork to sleep, but when threatened may dive into the sand for protection. They can even swim under the sand to avoid predators. A fine sand bed of at least 2-3 inches will help them feel secure. Rocks should be placed on the aquarium glass and sand poured around them to eliminate the danger of a cave-in when the hogfish dives in.Hogfish feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. They should be fed two to three times a day plenty of high quality meaty items, frozen Mysis shrimp, krill, chopped seafood, marine algae and Spirulina. They usually learn to take dry foods as well.A spectacular and unique animal, there is nothing quite like the Lyretail hogfish. Its fins, including its long tail, are edged in dark scarlet creating an impressive display. Its rear body is snowy white with dark speckles. When young its front half is bright gold, and when mature becomes maroon. Males and females are identical. Juveniles sometimes have the beneficial habit of cleaning its fish tank mates, and adults may sift the sand for food helping to keep it aerated. It grows up to 8 inches and requires an aquarium of at least 100 gallons.
The Maculosus is a stunning and uncommon import from the Red Sea. It is sometimes called the half moon angelfish. Its impressive coloration is a high contrast between a dark black/blue body with a curved yellow band vertically across the mid body and a dusty yellow tail. Young fish may have white instead of yellow markings. It may be confused with the Asfur angel, however the Maculosus angel's tail is a softer shade of yellow. Males and females are visually identical. The Maculosus angel can grow to be up to 18 inches long and needs a large aquarium as an adult, we recommend at least 250 gallons. It does not appreciate living with other large angelfish and may become aggressive to them, however it is typically non-aggressive with other types of fish. Angelfish may nip on many types of corals, especially LPS corals, clam mantles, sponges, and sometimes soft corals. They do not typically bother SPS corals or other types of invertebrates. They feel most secure when there is plenty of live rock to hide in, as well as open space for swimming. Diet should include plenty of marine algae and Spirulina, Sponge matter, frozen Mysis shrimp, half shell clams, and other high quality meaty items. It should be fed 2-3 times a day.
The new version of this magnet includes a scraper attachment for even better cleaning results (scraper attachment sold separately)! Easy removal of algae from glass/acrylic surfaces No longer knock over decorations, damage corals and invertebrates No longer get your hands submerged into the water of the fish tank Time/money saver on maintenance Large cleaning surface area makes the job quick and efficient Stays free of debris Can be maintained attached to aquarium surface Strong, high-quality neodymium rare earth magnets Available for glass and acrylic aquariums Can be used on freshwater and saltwater tanks Magnet does not lose strength over time Easy retrieval of inner magnet This specially designed aquarium cleaner is unique because it floats! The Mag-Float can easily be guided around a corner without sinking.Casing made of high grade ABS.Specifications Dimensions:3-1/4" x 2-1/2" x 1" Recommended on aquariums up to 350 gallons Maximum glass thickness: 5/8" Use only with glass aquariums!
The new version of this magnet includes a scraper attachment for even better cleaning results (scraper attachment sold separately)! Easy removal of algae from glass/acrylic surfaces No longer knock over decorations, damage corals and invertebrates No longer get your hands submerged into the water of the fish tank Time/money saver on maintenance Large cleaning surface area makes the job quick and efficient Stays free of debris Can be maintained attached to aquarium surface Strong, high-quality neodymium rare earth magnets Available for glass and acrylic aquariums Can be used on freshwater and saltwater tanks Magnet does not lose strength over time Easy retrieval of inner magnet This specially designed aquarium cleaner is unique because it floats! The Mag-Float can easily be guided around a corner without sinking.Casing made of high grade ABS.Specifications Dimensions:3-7/8" x 1-3/8" x 1" Recommended on aquariums up to 125 gallons Maximum glass thickness: 3/8" Use only with glass aquariums!
Easy removal of algae from glass/acrylic surfaces No longer knock over decorations, damage corals and invertebrates No longer get your hands submerged into the water of the fish tank Time/money saver on maintenance Large cleaning surface area makes the job quick and efficient Stays free of debris Can be maintained attached to aquarium surface Strong, high-quality neodymium rare earth magnets Available for glass and acrylic aquariums Can be used on freshwater and saltwater tanks Magnet does not lose strength over time Easy retrieval of inner magnet This specially designed aquarium cleaner is unique because it floats! The Mag-Float can easily be guided around a corner without sinking.Casing made of high grade ABS.Specifications Dimensions:1-3/4" x 15/16" x 3/4" Recommended on aquariums up to 10 gallons Maximum glass thickness: 3/16" Safe for use with any surface (acrylic, glass, and plastic).
The new version of this magnet includes a scraper attachment for even better cleaning results (scraper attachment sold separately)! Easy removal of algae from glass/acrylic surfaces No longer knock over decorations, damage corals and invertebrates No longer get your hands submerged into the water of the fish tank Time/money saver on maintenance Large cleaning surface area makes the job quick and efficient Stays free of debris Can be maintained attached to aquarium surface Strong, high-quality neodymium rare earth magnets Available for glass and acrylic aquariums Can be used on freshwater and saltwater tanks Magnet does not lose strength over time Easy retrieval of inner magnet This specially designed aquarium cleaner is unique because it floats! The Mag-Float can easily be guided around a corner without sinking.Casing made of high grade ABS.Specifications Dimensions:2-3/8" x 1-3/8" x 1" Recommended on aquariums up to 30 gallons Maximum glass thickness: 3/16" Use only with glass aquariums!
